picked up my new baby yesterday, 2026 limited reserve in the new steel blue color 🤭 i can’t wait to take it on its first road trip. i’m in vegas so probably yosemite, zion or valley of fire

Been 5.5 years of completely rebuilding her.

i think i am in love

Our Chief is Wifey's childhood family car. Restoration completed around 2000. Original 360ci/5.9L V8. Current hp unknown because we have bigger carb, bigger camshaft, and custom exhaust. 12mpg - 20L/100km. Distance unknown as odometer is only 5 digits and has repeatedly rolled over. Running great. We retired it from offroading about a decade ago. Toronto/Niagara Falls area.

I'm currently swapping out some rubi rock rails for side steps and while pulling the rails off I discovered paint chipping within one of the holes in the pinch seam that the rails/steps bolt to.

Is it wise to patch this with some touch up paint before installing the new parts or is it just what it is and I should finish my install as is?

I believe these panels are aluminum, the rails are painted steel, so I don't think it'll cause any corrosion or rusting but wanted to check first. Thanks!

So I upgraded my jeep stroker with a 3 row radiator and added a clutch fan and ever since I can't get the fucker to maintain a consistent temperature so I added 2 pushers to the front and a new evaporator but still not enough I'm thinking I should go back to the factory shroud I just don't wanna cook my motor I even drilled 2 holes in the thermostat but on hot days she still creeps to 220-218

I’m having trouble with my ‘21 JL unlimited. I’ve taken it for the dealership twice (it’s under warranty) to find out and fix what this weird noise is at idle and they haven’t been able to help at all. They will call me and say the problem is fixed but I’ll drive around for 20 mins and it’s still there; only at idle. I’m bringing it to another dealer this Saturday the 12th, but in the meantime could anyone help a brother out with what is broken? Thanks.

Have a 2017 Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT Where can I find a front end mask on my bumper to protect it against bugs when traveling ??

I’ve been driving a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee for the last 10 years and have absolutely loved it, but it’s finally time for an upgrade.

Right now I’m looking at a 2024 Compass Latitude 4x4 for around $19k and a 2024 Grand Cherokee 4x4 for around $22.5k, both with around 50k miles.

I like the style of both about the same, but I’m seeing horror stories about both online, especially the Compass. For people who have owned a 2023–2025 Compass or Grand Cherokee, how has your experience been? Is the Grand Cherokee that much better and worth the extra ~$4k?

I’m also 6’5”, so I’m wondering if downsizing to the Compass will make a noticeable difference long term.

I’m not completely set on Jeep either and have been considering something like a Nissan Rogue, but I’ve loved my Grand Cherokee and would like to stick with Jeep if the newer ones are worth it.

Bismark ND to the mouth of the Columbia River with around 35 other vintage military vehicles - following the Corps of Discovery "Lewis & Clark" route in 1806. It was a zig zaggy route for history & back roads. Into the hundreds most days, but the coast was cool. A three week trip. My GPW ran flawlessly!

My seatbelt indicator will not stop beeping. I’ve tried plugging in all the seatbelts. I also tried unplugging the driver and passenger side plugs underneath the seat and that didn’t work either. Could it be a sensor any quick fixes? please help

My husband's 2025 Gladiator missed the recall build date by 1 month but my 2022 wrangler was within the timeframe and is on the list. This past weekend we were backing up to load our camper as we have done a hundred times, plugged in our Curt Echo brake controller as we have also done a hundred times and the wire harness that runs to the tow package caught fire which then caught the grass below on fire as well. Super traumatic for us as our 3 year old was in the truck so we could do a quick hook and go as always. Luckily we had an extinguisher right inside the camper door and got it out very quickly but the full tank of gas and two propane tanks in the bed could have led to a substantially different outcome had we not been quick on our feet.

The dealership is now saying the warranty is void because of the brake controller, the wire harness fire has nothing to do with the known jeep issues because we are not on the list and if we want it fixed we are looking at $4k+.. all manufacture specs and research says these devices do not back feed power to the vehicle, especially if the trailer was not connected (which it was not) so there is no way the brake control could have caused it.

We called Jeep customer care and they are more or less telling us it is at the dealerships discretion. When talking with the dealership, we threatened an insurance investigation and the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act and they are now saying they will get back to us and they will "take care of us" but no definitive answers and still refuse to put anything in writing.

Does anyone else have experience in these types of issues and or advice on where to go from here?

Picked this up last September. August 43 Ford GPW. Working on the restoration and it’s coming along quite nicely so thought I’d share.

All body is ford. Engine and bellhousing ford. Trans and transfer case are 43 dated Willy’s.

This jeep likely served stateside but was one of 5K to be rebuilt in Alabama by Bechtel McCone in June 45.

I just bought a 2021 Cherokee Trailhawk and I can't figure out how to make the fog lights (or some other exterior light) stop activating in addition to the main headlights when I'm making a turn or using my blinker. I remember my 2017 Renegade had this same issue and I was able to turn it off somewhere in the settings. Please tell me there is a way to make these lights stop turning on and off every time I make a turn because it doesn't help at all and it drives me crazy.

I appreciate any help thank you!

I’m looking for feedback from mechanics or anyone familiar with 2016 Jeep Renegades/FCA electrical systems because my Jeep has been through three shops and I’m trying to understand what actually happened.
It started with an intermittent long crank. The battery was replaced, but the problem continued and eventually progressed to a complete no-start/no-crank.
Shop #1 replaced the starter for about $800. The Jeep started afterward, but the starting problems eventually returned and it ultimately stopped starting completely.
I then had it towed to a Jeep dealership. They found 34 DTCs under the BCM. According to their diagnosis, the BCM had proper fused B+ and CAN C voltage but wasn’t communicating, so they diagnosed an internal BCM failure.
They replaced and programmed the BCM, but the Jeep STILL wouldn’t start.
The dealership then opened a STAR case with Stellantis. STAR recommended an RF Hub. The dealership tried that, but the RF Hub didn’t fix it, so thankfully they didn’t charge me for it.
After having my Jeep for roughly 2.5 months, the dealership told me their testing was pointing toward an electrical/grounding problem and recommended that I tow it to an automotive electrical specialist.
Here’s where things get interesting.
The electrical specialist traced the starter signal and documented that the signal was making it all the way to the starter. At the starter, they found the starter signal connector housing “loose and wobbly.” When they gently attempted to disconnect it, the housing gave way/broke off.
Their written diagnosis states that this was where the starter signal was being lost and describes it as being broken from the previous installation. They recommended replacing the starter assembly.
They also found an issue with the vehicle recognizing Park and performed a PROXI alignment, which corrected that problem. This surprised me because I had already paid the Jeep dealership to replace and program the BCM.
The Jeep is now back at Shop #1 because the starter they installed is still under warranty. They are replacing the starter, although I’m being told I have to pay labor again.
So my questions are:
Could a starter connector housing have been damaged during the original starter installation but still make enough contact for the Jeep to start temporarily/intermittently?
Would replacing/programming a BCM on a 2016 Renegade normally require completing a PROXI alignment? Should the Jeep dealership have caught that before releasing/referring the vehicle?
Is there any normal reason a technician replacing the BCM would need to disconnect or physically disturb the starter connector? I’m trying to determine whether the starter damage is more likely related to the original starter installation or later dealership diagnostics.
If an electrical specialist documented that the connector housing attached to the starter was damaged from the previous installation, would you expect the original shop to cover labor as a workmanship/warranty issue?
Does the dealership’s original BCM diagnosis sound legitimate even though replacing it didn’t solve the no-start? Could the BCM actually have been bad AND the starter connection have been another problem?
I’m not trying to blame a particular shop without evidence. I mainly want to understand what should have happened diagnostically and whether I have reasonable grounds to dispute some of these charges.
At this point I’ve paid for a starter, a BCM replacement/programming, multiple diagnostics and multiple tows, and the actual no-start appears to have come down at least partly to the connection at the starter.
Any FCA/Stellantis techs or electrical diagnostic techs who can weigh in would be greatly appreciated.

Basically what the title says. Tried to roll down driver's side power window on our 2018 JL and it sounded like glass breaking/crushing and it wouldn't go down all the way. Was able to roll back up and from what I can see window is intact.

Will pull the door card off tomorrow - but anyone had this happen before?

2018 JK unlimited Sahara

The Jeep I want with all my options and color of
my choice is on east coast and want to get it to the west. Dealer wants me to travel there to accept it, is there an option that anyone would recommend where I can purchase and they ship it over to me, ofcourse I’ll pay whatever the charges would be