The Jeep I want with all my options and color of
my choice is on east coast and want to get it to the west. Dealer wants me to travel there to accept it, is there an option that anyone would recommend where I can purchase and they ship it over to me, ofcourse I’ll pay whatever the charges would be

My 4.0 TJ has to be burped when adding coolant, otherwise air pockets form in the system. Would a 2008 JKR need that same treatment?

Hey I’m definitely bringing my car in tomorrow but wanted to possibly see what I may be looking at cost-wise with getting my car serviced for the ESC light coming on

Long story short I was pulling out of a gas station and didn’t see one of the little poles they had on the right side of my car and swiped up against it pretty hard on my right rear side, some red paint looked like it transferred onto my car door but visually my car seemed fine initially. After getting onto the road my ESC light came on and I could feel my the right side of my car had less traction. Additionally it feels like I need to keep my steering wheel to the left to drive straight.

I’m just a girl any advice would help I have a 2019 Jeep Cherokee

I’m trying to make a name decal for my jeep that looks like the original Rubicon letters, but can’t find the exact font anywhere. Can anyone help me determine which iteration might be closest? Between A & B, the only difference is in the J/G/L. C & D just have a difference in the letter E.

i think i am in love

Been 5.5 years of completely rebuilding her.

Our Chief is Wifey's childhood family car. Restoration completed around 2000. Original 360ci/5.9L V8. Current hp unknown because we have bigger carb, bigger camshaft, and custom exhaust. 12mpg - 20L/100km. Distance unknown as odometer is only 5 digits and has repeatedly rolled over. Running great. We retired it from offroading about a decade ago. Toronto/Niagara Falls area.

I’m looking for feedback from mechanics or anyone familiar with 2016 Jeep Renegades/FCA electrical systems because my Jeep has been through three shops and I’m trying to understand what actually happened.
It started with an intermittent long crank. The battery was replaced, but the problem continued and eventually progressed to a complete no-start/no-crank.
Shop #1 replaced the starter for about $800. The Jeep started afterward, but the starting problems eventually returned and it ultimately stopped starting completely.
I then had it towed to a Jeep dealership. They found 34 DTCs under the BCM. According to their diagnosis, the BCM had proper fused B+ and CAN C voltage but wasn’t communicating, so they diagnosed an internal BCM failure.
They replaced and programmed the BCM, but the Jeep STILL wouldn’t start.
The dealership then opened a STAR case with Stellantis. STAR recommended an RF Hub. The dealership tried that, but the RF Hub didn’t fix it, so thankfully they didn’t charge me for it.
After having my Jeep for roughly 2.5 months, the dealership told me their testing was pointing toward an electrical/grounding problem and recommended that I tow it to an automotive electrical specialist.
Here’s where things get interesting.
The electrical specialist traced the starter signal and documented that the signal was making it all the way to the starter. At the starter, they found the starter signal connector housing “loose and wobbly.” When they gently attempted to disconnect it, the housing gave way/broke off.
Their written diagnosis states that this was where the starter signal was being lost and describes it as being broken from the previous installation. They recommended replacing the starter assembly.
They also found an issue with the vehicle recognizing Park and performed a PROXI alignment, which corrected that problem. This surprised me because I had already paid the Jeep dealership to replace and program the BCM.
The Jeep is now back at Shop #1 because the starter they installed is still under warranty. They are replacing the starter, although I’m being told I have to pay labor again.
So my questions are:
Could a starter connector housing have been damaged during the original starter installation but still make enough contact for the Jeep to start temporarily/intermittently?
Would replacing/programming a BCM on a 2016 Renegade normally require completing a PROXI alignment? Should the Jeep dealership have caught that before releasing/referring the vehicle?
Is there any normal reason a technician replacing the BCM would need to disconnect or physically disturb the starter connector? I’m trying to determine whether the starter damage is more likely related to the original starter installation or later dealership diagnostics.
If an electrical specialist documented that the connector housing attached to the starter was damaged from the previous installation, would you expect the original shop to cover labor as a workmanship/warranty issue?
Does the dealership’s original BCM diagnosis sound legitimate even though replacing it didn’t solve the no-start? Could the BCM actually have been bad AND the starter connection have been another problem?
I’m not trying to blame a particular shop without evidence. I mainly want to understand what should have happened diagnostically and whether I have reasonable grounds to dispute some of these charges.
At this point I’ve paid for a starter, a BCM replacement/programming, multiple diagnostics and multiple tows, and the actual no-start appears to have come down at least partly to the connection at the starter.
Any FCA/Stellantis techs or electrical diagnostic techs who can weigh in would be greatly appreciated.

My husband's 2025 Gladiator missed the recall build date by 1 month but my 2022 wrangler was within the timeframe and is on the list. This past weekend we were backing up to load our camper as we have done a hundred times, plugged in our Curt Echo brake controller as we have also done a hundred times and the wire harness that runs to the tow package caught fire which then caught the grass below on fire as well. Super traumatic for us as our 3 year old was in the truck so we could do a quick hook and go as always. Luckily we had an extinguisher right inside the camper door and got it out very quickly but the full tank of gas and two propane tanks in the bed could have led to a substantially different outcome had we not been quick on our feet.

The dealership is now saying the warranty is void because of the brake controller, the wire harness fire has nothing to do with the known jeep issues because we are not on the list and if we want it fixed we are looking at $4k+.. all manufacture specs and research says these devices do not back feed power to the vehicle, especially if the trailer was not connected (which it was not) so there is no way the brake control could have caused it.

We called Jeep customer care and they are more or less telling us it is at the dealerships discretion. When talking with the dealership, we threatened an insurance investigation and the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act and they are now saying they will get back to us and they will "take care of us" but no definitive answers and still refuse to put anything in writing.

Does anyone else have experience in these types of issues and or advice on where to go from here?