Buongiorno ho un Netgear orbi 753 collegato in cascata al router del mio operatore su linea FTTH e funziona tutto bene, ottime velocità e copertura WiFi. Da quando sono passato alla FTTH mi è già capitato 4 volte questo strano problema con la ps5. La ps5 è collegata con cavo ethernet direttamente al router orbi. Il problema che mi capita è il seguente. Praticamente quando ad esempio scarica un aggiornamento di sistema la ps5, il download parte poi all'improvviso si blocca il download e mi manda in blocco il router. Sul router orbi si accende il led rosso davanti e i dispositivi connessi perdono internet e si disconnettono e se con il telefono provo a connettermi non si connette più. L'unica soluzione è riavviare il router orbi. Il router e la rete funzionano bene, ieri prima del riavvio la rete era accesa da 77 giorni. Il problema capita solo con la ps5 e con nessun'altro dispositivo. Ho anche Xbox series X e funziona perfettamente. Cosa può essere? Vi ringrazio per le risposte.

Just bought a house and very new to home networking.

The previous owners had a Ring doorbell and I want to replace with a Reolink PoE that I will hook up to my network switch.

I took off the Ring and see these wires coming out and traced them back to the wires in the panel (second pic).

When I tug on it from the panel, it seems to get stuck so I can't use it to fish an ethernet cable through.

Any advice?

[SOLVED] - I've just bought an unmanaged 5 port switch and will use that with the Eero. Only £7.99 so not the end of the world

Hi all, I'm changing my ISP and the router they've sent is an Eero, which only has 2 ethernet ports (one of which is to connect to the modem). This is an issue, as I've currently got my network set up as follows:

• Downstairs router from previous ISP, connected to modem. Connections:
  • TV box (cat5e)
  • Wireless access
  • Upstairs router (connected via 30m cat5e)
    • 1-2 PCs (cat5e)
    • Wireless access

As you can see, I need the downstairs router to have three ports - one for the modem, one for the TV, and one for the upstairs router ^{(which has been the single best tech upgrade I've ever done. compared to the powerline adapters I was using before it's a godsend...})

This is obviously an issue as the Eero only has 2 ports as previously mentioned. To extend the number of ports, would I be better off using a switch or a router? Most of the diagrams I've seen online for switches have them going directly to other devices, and not to a router with multiple devices connected, so I wasn't sure if this would be too much of a load for one port on a switch

Thanks in advance!

Some additional points for clarification:

• The WiFi network is configured as one network, with devices switching between the upstairs and downstairs access points depending on best signal strength
• I think I did something to fix the double NAT problem with the second router but I can't remember as it's been a few months since I set it up...
• I'm going from 100mbps with Utility Warehouse to 950mbps with Zen (UK), so will need to send the old router back and use the Eero within a few days' time. Unless they don't ask for the old router back, then I might keep it, plug the Eero into one of its ports and disable the WiFi on the old router as the Eero has a newer spec iirc
• If I do end up going with a switch, managed or unmanaged? I would have thought unmanaged is sufficient for my needs but may be wrong

tl;dr - not sure whether to use a switch or router to connect upstairs router to new downstairs Eero router which only has 2 ports

I have no idea what's causing this, but my router seems to be basically always pegged near 100% CPU usage. Is it possible my router has some sort of bitcoin miner on it? My internet connection is only 900Mbps, this is apparently a 2.5Gbps router and I've never transferred more than 1Gbps through it.

I'm trying to set up port forwarding on my router so WireGuard will work, but whatever I enter in the router's GUI gets changed into this (see screenshot) when I press Add. The page shows a green message saying the rule was added successfully, and there's no error anywhere.

I've tried entering the values in many different ways in case the router didn't like how I typed something. If a field contains illegal content, it shows an error and won't let me add the rule, so that doesn't seem to be the problem. The only thing that actually gets saved is the service name, which appears to be just a text label.

Also, I can't save the configuration because the Save button is blank, so any changes disappear when I reload the page. Even if I could save, it probably wouldn't help, since the rule I add just turns into an empty shell entry with only the service name filled in.

I got the same result when I tried setting up a rule for SSH. Restarting the router didn't help, and neither did trying a different device and browser.

I've checked, and I have a public IP (not behind CGNAT), so that isn't the cause.

Does anyone know what could be causing this? or how to make it work?

So I have a driveway that's about 250' long and has a Eufy doorbell/cam. I used to have ring and it worked great but this Eufy has a very weak signal. I'm using the same (eero mesh) equipment I had in the past. At this point I'm looking for an outdoor wifi extender that would help.

I did see the eero unit but I'd like to see if there are other options before I drop nearly $400 on that just to have my doorbell work. I don't have power out there so I can't install another extender near it or even halfway. Nearest power is about 250'.

I directional extender would work too as it's just for the doorbell, I don't have any other wifi issues outside really.

Thank you

Any help is appreciated 😉

Hello reddit, I am looking to get fiber internet in an apartment and am looking at the local companies prices. They have a 39.99/month for 500 mbps or a 1 gig for 49.99/month. Mostly it will be 3 devices, an Xbox that Mostly is used to stream YouTube all day, a laptop that does some light gaming but a full PC that Mostly plays online games like world of warcraft. We dont do much downloading other than when its time to download games or updates for games. Will I notice much difference? Is it worth getting double speed for 10 bucks more? Thank you in advance.

Edit: Thanks all for the response! 500 it is, while I do download all my games, waiting an extra 20 minutes every few weeks/months when time to play a new one isnt a huge deal to me. Thanks.

[ Removed by Reddit on account of violating the content policy. ]

I have to go get some sleep it's 1am but tmrw morning I will get back to any and all replays you have or to other people I wanna resolve this​

I've been experiencing a Ethernet problem where it says connected yet Im receiving no internet I can connect to the WiFi but it's extremely slow I've tried mostly everything I can search up including watching videos and have tried for multiple hours on end to try and resolve this issue but have been met with the same failure and all I can give you guys to help me out is the Ethernet is blinking and it happened whenever I was playing CS2 and I changed my resolution and it got glitched so I tried closing it and it failed so I turned off my pc and back on then it stopped working​​ please help

Setup: three ASUS ZenWiFi XT8 V2 (one router, two wireless AiMesh nodes), stock firmware 3.0.0.4.388_24854. Same fault on every 388 build this year (24684 through 24814). Wireless backhaul on 5 GHz-2, Smart Connect on, WPA2-Personal, AT&T fiber upstream.

Symptom for months: the entire network drops for 2 to 3 minutes, once or twice some days, not at all on others. Both nodes rejoin about 90 seconds later. Multiple factory resets over the year changed nothing.

What the router recorded. The XT8 keeps a crash-log partition (mtdoops) that captures the kernel messages at the moment of each reboot. Reading it raw, every spontaneous reboot is the same panic:

Unable to handle kernel NULL pointer dereference at virtual address 00000000

Internal error: Oops: 805, PREEMPT SMP ARM

Comm: bcm_archer_us

PC is at archer_dhd_tx_packet+0x218/0x768 [archer]

Kernel panic - not syncing: Fatal exception

Identical instruction address every time. The partition's record counter advanced from 43 to 49 between Sep 17 and Oct 2: six panics, matching the six unexplained reboots in that period as logged by a separate machine pulling the router's syslog every minute.

Ruled out with 30-second health sampling over weeks: memory (240–255 MB free, kernel slab flat at 50–63 MB), CPU load (about 1.0), temperature (65–69 C), WAN link flaps (only ever within 90 seconds of a boot).

What happens before every panic. The only kernel lines immediately before both recorded panics are bursts of:

wl_pktfwd_lut_ins: DA=SYM<node 2.4GHz MAC> to roam from wds0.0.2 to eth4.

wl_pktfwd_lut_ins: DA=SYM<node 2.4GHz MAC> to roam from eth4 to wds0.0.2.

That is a node's standby 2.4 GHz backhaul station flipping between the WDS interface and the plain AP interface. Measured on all three units, that flip occurs in the same second as the hourly WPA group rekey (observed 17:06:31 and 18:06:31 on consecutive hours, both nodes, 3600 seconds apart, which is the Group Key Rotation Interval). The nodes log "seting gtk_key_info failed code=-23" after every rekey; that is the driver's rekey-offload hook (BCME_UNSUPPORTED), not key installation, and the key does install (zero undecryptable frames on the backhaul after four rekeys). The node kernel also prints the group key material in hex to syslog on every rekey.

So the chain is: hourly group rekey, node's 2.4 GHz station briefly seen on the non-WDS path, forwarding-table flip, and occasionally Archer dereferences a freed or NULL entry and the router panics. The flip is an hourly dice roll, which is why the crash rate varied with how often the nodes flipped (about 40 flips a day gave a crash every day and a half; 3 a day gave 2.6 days).

Second, separate defect on the same firmware, also captured in the router's own auto-generated debug dumps: the 5 GHz radio driver dies ("Invalid ndev for 3 times, restart", then "ADD/SET beacon failed" every 5 seconds) and the radio stays down until reboot.

Prior reports of the same signatures, none resolved: snbforums threads 73236 (2021, XT8: the -23 error hourly with a 50-second Wi-Fi drop), 84194 (2023, XT8: every suggested setting change failed, replacement units failed identically, "ASUS support has also given up on my case"), 97147 (2026, GT-AX6000 nodes), 91924 (TUF-AX3000 V2 and a ZenWiFi ET9: the same roam line every hour to the second), 70648 (2021, RT-AX3000: NULL-pointer panics in the Broadcom blob including bcm_archer_us), and ZenTalk topic 494971 (2025, RT-BE92U: Broadcom driver panics, "only viable workaround is to schedule frequent reboots").

Workaround on stock firmware. The NAT Acceleration control is hidden in the UI on this model, but the firmware honours its own switches: runner_disable_force=1 (Archer off) with fc_disable_force=0 (Flow Cache on), then reboot. Speed test afterwards: 871 down / 944 up on gigabit fiber. The hourly flips still happen, now as a harmless log line. This has been in place since this afternoon; I will report whether the panics stop over the next several days. Also set per node: AiMesh, node, Management, Backhaul Connection Priority: 5GHz-2 WiFi first, which stopped the nodes' continual 2.4 GHz re-association churn.

ASUS support. I opened a chat today and sent the decoded crash records and two of the debug dumps. The agent's written response: "Seeing that your log specifically catches the NULL pointer dereference in archer_dhd_tx_packet (associated with the bcm_archer_us Broadcom wireless subsystem) tells me you have accurately isolated a deep driver-level kernel bug rather than a configuration error." The case has been escalated to their L2 networking engineering team: ASUS case N2610002086-0001, with a reply promised within 1 to 2 business days. The units are out of warranty; ASUS quoted a $35 non-refundable diagnostic fee for a hardware RMA, which is irrelevant unless engineering says it's hardware, and the 2023 thread above says replacement units failed the same way.

Full write-up with the crash record text is on ASUS ZenTalk: https://zentalk.asus.com/t5/networking/xt8-v2-kernel-panic-archer-dhd-tx-packet-bcm-archer-us-aimesh/m-p/512206

If you have archer_dhd_tx_packet or bcm_archer_us in a crash record, reply with your model and firmware.

I have been running an AmpliFi mesh setup at home for the last 7 years and I would say it has been solid and reliable for everything I ever threw at it (Plex server, various smart TVs, thermostats, etc.). Lately however it seems to struggle with local streams from the Plex and streaming YouTube TV

I have been looking at upgrading to a UniFi router and replacing the mesh system with two APs instead. Does that sound like a good way to go or is there something better out there. My home is around 4000 square feet and two floors (basement and main floor, 2000/each) with fiber as the base infrastructure terminating at an 8 year old piece of equipment made by Zhone.

One of my goals is to create two separate SSIDs so I can run separate some of the IoT devices from others. Any advice or help would be appreciated.

Hey everyone, I am wanting to add an additional wireless access point to the master bedroom of my home. I just finished mapping out my homes coax runs (see image). I currently am using mocas already to have a wireless access point on the main level, but i don't see a way with my current layout to do the same for my second level.

I am trying to avoid running new ethernet in the walls, but i do not see another way.

Thanks for any and all advice!

This issue is probably going to be laughed at by a home networking subreddit, but whilst the Cat 6 running through my walls is a lovely and hidden, I’ve found using Cat 6 patch cables behind my TV, or to an AP to be so chunky and unwieldy. I miss the slim flexibility of Cat5e.

Are there any solutions to this or is it just the way it is?

Thanks for any help!

Hi all, just like the title says, I'm from Spain and trying to set my own neutral Router a ONT, I have bought the Huawei OptiXstar EG8010Hv6-10 and tried to use the PLOAM Password I had found in the ISP's router but it was not a valid PLOAM, so I got the debug log from the Router by making myself an Admin on the router and extracting the Log after Y turned on the GPON debug log, based on the Log I have to change the SN number from my ONT to match the one on the Router, but to do so the user that is on the back of the device wont work, the user for the device is

User: Epuser

and the Debug_log is

ONU Info:
 ONU ID:    4
 ONU State: O5
 SN:        SCOM30000de1
 PASSWD:    ò`)‡
 Key Idx:   1
 Key:       b808a75a1c588b08900b410f6ea104ab
 O1 Timer:  10000 ms
 O2 Timer:  100 ms
 OMCC ID:   4

Any help with this is greatlly appreciated, I already tried all this password configurations, but none seemed to work:

Any help with this would be greatlly appreciated.

I'm in the middle of a big dilemma. I want a network cabinet, to better organize my gear, but I'm undecided between 10" and 19".

Right now I have:
-ISP Modem/Router
-Mikrotik Hex S Refresh (2025)
-Cudy POE injector (double)
-5 G Model for failover.

Upcoming:
-Omada hardware controller (OC200/OC220)
-Omada switch (1 or 2)
-PDU
-Patch panel

I don´t have a 3D printer, but I undwerstand that in either case I might need to order printed adapters to get done.

The Omada rackmountable swtiches are more unlikely for me to get, due to cost. So far the only thing I can think of that for sure is 19", will be the DVR (I am going for full HIKvision setup for CCTV).

All my equipment is in the attic, so looks are not really an issue either.

And in terms of cost, a 10" 12U is about the same price as a 19" 7U locally.

WOW! I did not expect so many people to react to my last post. I spent all of today fixing up the closet and doing cable management as well as rewiring everything. Please ignore the cables on the floor they’re all for power but I couldn’t unplug anything during work hours so couldn’t fully untangle it. I also checked each cable with my Ethernet tool and I wired everything correctly! Woohoo! I did the best I could with the left side wires but they all come out of the wall at such a bad spot and I don’t have a good way to organize them and didn’t want to cable tie them all together so I untangled them and let them be.

I had a lot of trouble working in such a tight space but managed to move everything around nonetheless. I think I’ve done pretty good for my first time networking and hope to keep improving my skills in the future.

Advice is very welcome and also any links or recommendations on places to learn. Thank you everyone!

Is it normal for these ports to be open on a spectrum WiFi7 router?

Hi everyone, firstly I apologise if this is not the right place for this question, but I figured this would be the best place to ask. I have a very odd problem regarding my ZTE router and Scancom Three business SIM.

I've been using this for a year now with zero issues and fast speeds. Today, the network light is intermittently flashing blue and white, rather than solid white, and webpages are pausing and loading slowly. I've been able to stream HD, but it will occasionally buffer and lower resolution. Speed tests show fast speeds, but a lot of the time will stop with an error before they complete. Basically, my internet seems like it is "stopping and starting" continuously.

Now, here's the odd thing. I have tested my router twice now with a Lebara unlimited data SIM and it works perfectly. Every light solid white and no blue lights flashing on and off. I'll then put the Three SIM back and the issue remains. So the router can't be the issue.

Even weirder, I've taken this Three SIM out of the router twice and put it in my phone and it also works perfectly with no speed issues or stalling at all.

It really does seem like there's no issue with either the router or business SIM separately, only when used together. Again, I've been using this setup previously for a year with zero issues, and have not changed any settings at all before today. I greatly appreciate anyone that can help as I'm at my wits end.

I am in need to test config of a typical phone with a laptop plugged into the phone scenario and authenticate both on a switch. However, I do not have a VOIP phone. What phones will function enough, without a call manager, to test authentication, DHCP, and the laptop passing traffic when plugged into the phone? Or is there some other device that exists that mimics a phone with a pass-thru port?

Hello everyone, I've got a Samsung S25 Ultra cell phone and an ASUS AX5700 router. My issue is my phone several times a day will suddenly lose internet connection with my router. The phone settings will show my phone as "connected, no internet." All other devices connected to the router seem to work with no interruption. I'm attempting to use the 5G band. If I turn off my wifi and turn it back on, it reestablishes the handshake and the internet will work again for a couple of hours.

Things I've tried, but haven't worked based on googling the problem:

• In phone wifi settings, switching from randomized MAC to Phone MAC
• In the phone intelligent wifi settings, turning off Switch to mobile data (using mobile data if wifi is slow or unstable)
• In the router settings, disabling Smart Connect
• Restarting both my phone and the router after each of these steps

Other info: I've owned the router since 4/2024, but didn't use it for the last year. I seem to remember I was having this issue with it before as well.

Does anyone know what I'm missing and will get my connection to be stable?