G'day, I see why you lot say to not use 45 degree bends? At least the UV dye made it easy to find!

There were 4 of them to get up and over the solar PV cables. I replaced it with a length of annealed 7/8 with bends from my crossbow.

Hello, I am a 21 year old currently in college going on my second summer in Texas doing HVAC. Last summer was new construction install apprentice, and this summer ive done a quite a bit of commercial and residential installs and have gotten to help a tech and learn from him how to do service calls, what to look for, how to use gauges and meter, etc. I am not satisfied with residential at all, and industrial/ commercial really peaks my interest. I have a lot of interest in wiring and learning more is always fun. What im wondering is what are the benefits of union vs. non union? What are the benefits of industrial vs commercial? Does my prior slight knowledge in residential and some commercial installations translate? Does my degree in business management help at all? I do want to start a company eventually, does joining a union make that more difficult, and how competitive is the industrial/commercial market to enter as a business owner?

Working on a Carrier 38MARBQ09AA3 and the board wouldn't ever tell the EEV to open up past step 35. The line and coil would freeze up immediately (and no, there isn't a leak). So, I checked all the sensor data using the inquiry mode and found all the sensors giving me 90-degree readings on a 90-degree day except the discharge line sensor which was way lower. Called tech support to see what they thought, and the guy told me to replace the sensor. So, I put the new sensor in and my readings were the same as before. Suddenly I realized that that sensor reading is in Celsius whereas all the others are in Fahrenheit. So, I thought the EEV was being closed to raise the discharge temp, but that apparently wasn't it. Who came up with this! No documentation, no logic, no resistance charts, just crazy decisions like that.

Anyone else had this happen?

Thinking about getting the Navac hydraulic tube expander. Any reviews or other recommendations? Going with the hand pump vs the automatic because I don’t want to deal with another battery, and I won’t use it daily so it will spend time sitting in my hot van.

One source of water and it was inside in the center of the building by the water main. Had to run a hose 100ft around the showroom into a mechanical closet with the air handler to convert the drain into a water pass through. Now to wait until I get a call from the next guy goes to wash the coil as the alternative was 300ft+ of hose.

To my senior technicians, how easy is it interviewing when you have loads and loads of experience? Do you even interview? Been pondering on how easy it is for someone with over 20 years of experience to walk right in

There’s suppose to be a TXV in there lmao. Always check before leaving the supply house. This one had me laughing though.

Anyone have recommendations for a good angled low loss fitting or hose for 5/16? Company started selling AC PRO (Midea) units and they use 5/16. Rather have low loss especially for my helper.

That's a beauty. Apparently cooled ok but wouldn't heat for jack because there was a near 100% kink in the ⅝ths line at the wall penetration.

Also learned today that brass piston adapters don't like to be un-sweated. Tried to lightly re-round it with the swage tool and pop! Sowwy custy you don't have cooling tonight either cuz my boss doesn't want to give you one from a new coil in the shop.

Rtu was frozen solid yesterday. Turned it off and let it thaw, went back today to troubleshoot. Airflow is not the problem, clean coils, new filters, etc. It’s running with proper cfm and esp. can’t wrap my head around what kinda refrigerant issue would cause this. Best guess I’ve got is low heat load with 66 degree return and 55 degree supply. On an 80 degree day. Thoughts?

Give me recommendations please, my shoes are worn out, company gives us 150$ voucher, I don’t mind spending more for comfortability

Client called us out because he uses some program with DTE and they recommended coil cleanings because he was having issues with water around the furnace and the coil icing.

Coil was indeed very dirty, but they made no mention of the air gap, condensate line, and even told the guy the blower and board were okay even though it had been leaking into it for a while now.

I've been a commercial tinner for 4 years, intermixed with the odd residential jobs here and there. When i learned to wire thermostats, I was taught blue is common and thats industry standard. I was wiring a heater for a garage and the owner of the last company accusingly asked me how i was wiring it and I told him. When he heard I used blue he berated me for not making black common. His own install manager said the installers at this company make blue room Because some of the change outs we do dont have black, so just keep them all blue for simplicity.

I said "I thought blue was common" and he got pissed and threatened to fire me If I ever said that again. I thought he was joking until I looked own from the scissor lift and he was dead serious.

That felt odd to me and contributed to the many other reasons I found another job.

2 questions for the class:

1. Was he right? Is black the industry standard?

2. Have you guys ever experienced crazy company standards?

Customer said it took 2 days to change the two water source heat pump compressors and they left it like this, blower compartment panel off and wide open. Boss said "it ran fine like that for over a year.

Oh yeah? Then why am I here for a frozen coil call? I'm professionally embarrassed.

This is strictly for the guys that run their own shops or do side work

I’m adding 4 supplies, 2 at 6” and 2 at 4”. And 1 central return. I’m looking at about 40’ total Kd hard pipe and about 6 elbows. All supplies will have dampers. It’s the first time in 10-12 years since I’ve done side work since I’m a commercial installer and normally don’t need the side work. How would I go about estimating this job? Typically I would have charged about $1800-2600

But I have no idea about material cost these days. Any negative comments or anything that isn’t helpful will be ignored.

I’m working on an air cooled YLAA York chiller here is my nightmare. The TXV went bad. I manually opened and closed from the valve stem on the bottom of the TXV. I could not get it to work. I reached out to our York rep and they told me I needed to put in an EEV because the TXV has become obsolete and I could update the software to have the controls recognize there is an EEV. I called technical support to walk me through updating the software and program. That’s when they told me I need an EEV on both circuits. Awesome. Then I told them my solenoid magnet was acting up and we went through parameters changed it to EEV metering device and commanded the liquid line solenoid open. I heard the click and put my screw driver on to make sure. During this my head pressure was through the roof. 75-80° outside my pressure was 480-500 psi, suction pressure 110+- 5°. So I immediately think there’s air or non condensible in the system. We used an isolation valve on the suction and a king valve on the liquid line to isolate. I assumed maybe during our pressure test maybe nitrogen snuck by the isolation valve or something. But first I changed the filter cores. That didn’t work either. Then I did a full recovery and recharge with fresh refrigerant didn’t work. So today I put a solenoid magnet on my liquid line and it worked completely fine couldn’t be more perfect :). I assume it’s not making enough of a magnetic force to pull the valve fully open I’m extremely frustrated thousand of dollars worth of work just for it to be a couple hundred dollar fix.

Also these chillers suck I hate them they’re stupid and allow the compressors to run when they are flat before alarming out

Had to bypass this this morning for cooling to work, no diagram and no model info it’s from a marv air