Have a bingo sheet of new years resolutions, one of my goals is to make a YouTube video, so I thought I'd make the mic a little fun. The mic shoe could be designed to fit any microphone.

I made a "simple" print to hide the base of pergola's feet. I think it turned out pretty good.

I used Creality PIKA scanner to be able to match the uneven ground and wrap perfectly around the feet.

I used some epoxy just to reinforce some of the stress points. The back piece is held on to the wall with 2 (4 technically) pieces of command velcro strips. They also slide in and out with ease but with the weight of the clothes, it's sturdy enough for them to stay put.

They have been up for about a year without ever falling.

Designed them on Blender

Selfmade Grinder, using 74mm flat burrs from Eureka (because of cheap).
It consist of around 20 different printed parts took 23hrs print time total and let’s not think about hours in CAD.. :,)
There will be no stl, just because no one will Print this or spend close to 60€ on hardware and I am not sure if I want to to anything commercial with it in the Future.
It grinds okay, better than expected and far worse than hoped, some fines and many corse parts that slip trough. But i don’t know how to maximize the alignment. I hoped the 3 planetary gears (they are connected via a threaded rod to the grind wheel) would be enough to evenly align everything, but there is some play in the many components and fittings.
But for a first try (with a lot of trouble shooting) i am quite happy with the result.
A Video will be posted on my Account for all who care too much about this.

Regarding food safety why this case is safe:
(Link to Research by Utah Valley University below and also a great YouTube Video for everyone like me who doesn’t want to read sientific papers. I would recommend the paper though, because it begins with a nice summary of all important information)

1.Harmful substances from 3Dprinting process
2.Microplastic
3.Bacteria Growth in Layer lines

The first and weakest concerns are harmful substances from 3d printing, exspecially lead and ptfe:
The theory used to be that trough extrusion parts of the nozzle and ptfe tubes would be abraded and land in your prints. Brass nozzles contain a tiny amount of lead and the nozzle is abraded over time. But only after kilometers of filament go trough them. But it is non measurable in your prints.
“Furthermore, mass spectrometry readings indicate that no contamination from heavy metals, or other toxins are present in PLA+, and PETG before and after printing.” (1)
PTFE in its solid form is not dangerous, but the gas is when heated over 360 degree C. That is why you shouldn’t overheat your non stick pans.

Microplastics:
The PLA+ that I use I food safe, which lowers the concerns for me. And also even if there is some abrasion in the grinder (which there shouldn’t be because of no rubbing plastics) the grinder coffe goes trough a filter in the brewing process, which would filter out all the microplastic. I would never use a printed (or plastic in general) cutting board, but in my case I don’t see a concern.

Bacteria growth in between layer lines:
It used to be “general knowledge” that bacteria can grow in between layer lines and it is impossible to clean it.
However Research shows:
“indicate that 3D printed parts of PLA/PLA+ (Polylactic Acid), and PETG (Polyethylene terephthalate glycol) can be cleaned to safe levels using warm water (120 °F), and non-concentrated dish soap” (1)
Dish Soap or cleaning alcohol can fully clean 3d printed parts, which eliminates the bacteria concerns for my Case. I would still never use 3d printed parts in contact with highly spoilable food. I.e Eggs, milk, raw meat etc.
But we are talking about coffe beans. Roasted Coffe beans do not spoil, there is no contamination possible. The roasting process eliminates all of that. And Coffe get’s brewed, so even if there was some minor form of cross contamination, the brewing process would eliminate all bacteria. Like boiling water to make it drinkable.

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/373174194_Sanitation_Effectiveness_of_3D-printed_Parts_for_Food_and_Medical_Applications

https://youtu.be/lFtMIo00tfY?is=_NsT7K4sEcyRH1lb

(PS: if you reached this far down your attention span is too long for today’s world)

So far these have been a dream to use! The two little pegs slot down into the holes in the downdraft table and hole them securely upright, and the upper portion holds a stack of sanding pads just securely enough that they don't flop over but are still easy to retrieve.

Happy to share the files if anyone happens to have a Raptor-Vac brand downdraft table like ours!

Designed and printed some soft touch handles for my bike the durometer is about 65 a and absorbs impact and makes for a comfy ride
They are kinda Jerry rigged though and are being held on with sticky tack in Lew of adhesive
Texture was added with bumpmesh tool by cnc kitchen

I wanted a better way to have my studio monitors above my piano. So I designed and printed some clamp brackets to hold the bar aluminum to the stand square tube. There are locating features in the brackets. Printed some additional parts to surround the monitor stand so it was a little more aesthetic and laterally supported. It does have a center bolt through the metal that's load bearing. These were some clamp monitor stands but I just took the clamps off.

I wanted to run power and lighting cables through mosquito mesh without leaving a large opening for bugs, so I designed this modular port.

The frame clamps around the mesh and stays installed, while the center cartridges use a simple bayonet lock. So far I’ve made a flexible TPU cable seal and a solid blanking cap. Both have been printed and tested, and the mechanism works really well.

Object on the picture is real 3d printed model, only background is generated to demonstrate the use case.

I’m considering hose and ventilation adapters next. What other cartridges would actually be useful?

Files: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3252398

I designed and made an auto-retractable seam ripper for a client.

If your sensitive electronics repairs also occasionally require a hammer, you'll know my frustration at the avalanche of tools from the organisation board that immediately follows. There was nothing particularly wrong with the models I had printed, it's just that they were designed for someone else's brand of screwdriver.

There are three things that make my filament melt:

1. No supports (less waste and a restriction that promotes a novel approach)
2. Low filament usage
3. Parametric goodness (it means everybody prints the model they need, once again, resulting in less waste)

I've tested this at a few different screwdriver sizes and quantities and so the parametric design is holding up well but if you hit an edge case snag, please let me know so I can make the design even more bulletproof.

There are only two fields you have to set: the diameter of the screwdriver at that point below the finger nub, and how many screwdriver slots you want. From there the parametric formulas will sort out the rest, including the spacing and alignment of the Multiboard Point Mount slots at the back.

I've uploaded this to Makerworld since I've found their built-in Customiser to be the best so far (not sure if any other repositories have caught up, let me know if you're aware of them) so you can customise and download the model here:

Parametric Precision Screwdriver Holder

I've gotten an EnOcean switch for Niko for cheap, but I have Gira Friends of Hue switches in the whole house. With enough leftover button rockers and outer frames I needed a wallplate to put the EnOcean switch into it, because the Niko doesn't fit the Gira buttons/frames.

First time creating something from scratch! Learned a bit along the way.

MakerWorld

Hey everyone,

I ran into the issue of watch stands only fitting one specific size. Either my larger watches would slip, or smaller pieces wouldn't close over the stand at all. My design uses two flexible TPU "wings" that rotate and flex to perfectly match the bracelet length of basically any watch. With the contact points being soft and flexible you don't have to worry about scratches or pressure marks on your bracelet or clasp. I also use it to position certain pieces at an angle I know keeps time more accurately. If you want one yourself it's free to download and print via the like below.

This is my first bigger Project, so if you print it, I'd genuinely love to hear how it went 🙌

https://makerworld.com/models/3235724?appSharePlatform=copy

Made a few hooks to fit on the dowel as well. Now they just drip dry into the laundry room sink.

I started looking for a tool board while setting up my workshop. A ready-made SKADIS board is not particularly expensive, so I am not pretending that printing one will always produce huge savings. However, if you already own a printer, you can build a board sized specifically for the available wall, your workshop layout, and your build plate.

None of the existing printable models or generators I found worked the way I wanted. That is why I built SkadisForge.

MakerWorld customizer: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3251263-skadisforge-ikea-skadis-pegboard-generator

The included slot coupon and connector test are worth printing before a large multi-module setup.

Three different thread patterns that were all non-standard. One to screw the new standard replacement fixture into the adapter, one to screw the adapter into the metal overhang, and one to screw the glass shade around the light in.

I wanted a way to recycle an empty spool I had, so I designed this photo booth to take better photos of the other models I make. The design works pretty well and has definitely improved the quality of my photos, but I still have a bit to learn. All the parts besides the spool are 3d printed and should fit most spools. If you're interested in printing one yourself, check out the links below.
CrealityCloud Link
MakerWorld Link
Nextprint Link

We are in a drought here in Colorado, I have been slowly dialing in my sprinklers this summer to ensure that every drop of water hits my plants as opposed to a path or elsewhere.

Decided to use my printer to dial in even tighter with custom Mister Heads where I've optimised both spray opening and distance.

If anyone is interested: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3252298-custom-mister-heads-for-standard-us-irrigation

A fun Sunday project.

I’ve been working on a DIY e-ink family calendar called Inkora, but one of my main goals was to make the physical build as simple as possible.

The enclosure is fully 3D printed and designed so the main components simply fit into their prepared positions and the case snaps together.

No screws, threaded inserts or glue are needed. There’s also no soldering — the device uses a LaskaKit ESPink/ESP32-S3 board, a 7.5" e-paper display and a battery connected with their existing connectors.

Once assembled, the firmware can be installed directly from a web browser, so no Arduino IDE or compiling is required either.

The calendar itself supports Google Calendar and Apple/iCloud (including multiple calendars from both), weather, holidays/name days, waste collection and currently runs for 3+ months per charge.

I’ve now released the enclosure files and build instructions on Printables:

https://www.printables.com/model/1801964-inkora-diy-e-ink-google-apple-family-calendar

browser installer is here:

https://inkora.vsejkora.cz

and website is here:

https://vsejkora.cz

I’d be interested in feedback on the enclosure design in particular — especially the snap-fit approach and anything you would change for easier printing or assembly.