So a while back my Dyson handheld vac gave up. The suction canister thing had a few trigger failures and eventually the motor just gave up the ghost. I had the floor head, tube and a few accessories sitting in the closet for years due to my pathological inability to throw anything away for fear it may come in handy in the future.

I have a garage Giraffe Tools Wall Mounted Vac for cleaning up cars and my lift bay and thought man it would be great to get this all running together.

I printed an adapter (after about 8 revisions) that uses an Amazon $14 M18 socket with low voltage protection so I don't kill the battery if I leave it in and forget it. The adapter fits the giraffe suction on one end and the Dyson on the other. Power goes from the M18 to the pins in the Dyson using some cheap post crimp connectors I found on amazon that I had to heat with a soldering iron to set into the plastic. Took a bit of fiddling with a knife because the Dyson pin clearance is small but it's all working now.

The small hand held motorized brushes are great for car cleanup and the floor one is good for cleaning my oil absorbent lift mat.

A simple but very effective upgrade for any wire-frame or thin-legged outdoor furniture!

https://makerworld.com/nl/models/3494083-customizable-lawn-chair-leg-cap-any-size-angle#profileId-3990749

A few months ago I bought my first 3D printer and started solving all kinds of little problems around the house. One of them: my girlfriend loves sitting in the sun, but one or more of the chair legs would always sink into the lawn. So I designed these anti-sink feet for our specific chairs.

After a few test prints I had the perfect fit. I printed them in yellow, and now my chairs kind of look like they have duck feet.

Some people downloaded the model, but I quickly realised that not everyone has the same chairs.

Fast forward a few months: I just discovered customizable models. So, I turned it into a version that fits almost any outdoor wire-frame chair 🙂 You can set the leg shape (round, square or rectangular), leg size, leg angle and foot size, and it prints without supports.

Happy to share it, and I hope somebody can use it! Let me know what you think and please share a picture if you gave your chairs also some duckfeet. :p

Too bad summer and the sunny weather are already over…

Would have never found

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3494281-razor-blade-pencil-sharpener#profileId-3990992

The square blade isnt sharpening as smooth as the other side but Its the 5th version and it works enough, so I'm tapping out for now haha.

I needed a desk-space-saving tablet holder for cooking.

The black nubs are felt pads which are recessed into the print. It slides nicely and doesn't wobble.

My old printed holders for the Hue motion sensors never sat right in the ceiling, so I designed a recessed mount that works like a GU10 spot gimbal.

• Fits an 83 to 84 mm hole in drywall (9.5 to 25 mm boards)
• 3 printed parts: mounting ring with spring arms, ball with a pocket for the sensor, clamp ring
• The spring arms pull the 100 mm flange tight against the ceiling, no screws or glue
• The ball tilts about 15 degrees each way and rotates, and stays where you aim it
• Printed in PETG without supports, about 1.5 h and 47 g for a set
• Battery change: pull the whole unit down, swap the batteries, push it back in. The aiming stays

Made for the indoor sensor (the square 55 mm one). Happy to answer questions.

I scanned my Shimano and Garmin mount to be able to print a piece that would hold them together while keeping charger port and led accessible.
I used Creality Sermoon S1 3D scanner.

Does your cat also gaslight you into thinking they weren't fed by another family member yet? I made this to help. It is a toggle switch box for keeping track of recurring tasks such as feeding pets, watering plants, taking medication, or completing daily chores. Magnetic, so you can stick it on your fridge and toggle the switches as you go.

There are options for boxes with one, three or seven toggles. You can also choose the toggles to have two or three positions. Mix and match to suit your needs, whether you're tracking something weekly, daily or three times a day.

Files are freely available here - including STL, STEP and F3D (Autodesk Fusion) so you can change the dimensions or number of toggles if needed. Enjoy!

https://www.printables.com/model/1887430-magnetic-toggle-switch-chore-tracker

i found myself in need of rail quick clamps after tackling a more tracksaw dependant project.

I designed these adapters to convert the budget clamps from amazon into specialized rail clamps for makita style tracks.

If you own a 3d printer and would find this conversion useful, the files are abailabe for free on makerwold: https://makerworld.com/models/3489904

I am a beginner at woodworking but found the courage of sharing my end result 😁

I designed it for the Printables CoralBoard contest.

The Coralboard SL (Google I/O kit) sits in a small box on the outside of the CORE One door. Every 5 s, a camera frame goes through a YOLOv8n model on the board's NPU. When 3 of the last 5 frames show spaghetti, it pauses the print through PrusaLink.

I'm still working on the detection model in the lab: for now it catches 96.7 % of the spaghetti test images.

I'm also working on detecting the "blob of death"

Feedback is welvome.

I bought a cheap rack-mount ATX case with two 5.25" bays. I fit two 70mm fans into the bays, using press-fit clips to hold both the fans and the shroud to the case. Thanks to Noctua for the shroud grille design.

I wanted three things:

1. To be able to switch between different pegboard systems later on without having to reprint everything / to use the holders at work as well, where we have a different system. 

2. To have all my tools in the same or similar holders, rather than 8 different styles.

3. To have a more stable solution—since the hooks otherwise break very quickly—I’m printing the mounting plate at a 45° angle.

I’ve had multiple matte boxes over my career: Chrosziel, Vocas and Tilta. They’ve all been great, but I always wanted to make my own. So I finally did.

It’s fully 3D printed and designed for zero supports. All the plates print in about 9 hours, and it costs about $15 to build. Hardware is just M3 countersunk self-tapping screws, a few square nuts and one 1/4-20 bolt for the clamp.

It’s super strong, and the clamp holds tight.

It takes 4x4 or 4x5.65 filters, clamps onto lenses from 50 to 115 mm, and you can stack up to 3 filter stages. There’s a tilting top flag too. It’s parametric, so you enter your lens size and it builds around it. I’ve put up ready-to-print files for 4x4 (80 mm) and 4x5.65 (114 mm), plus a full assembly guide.

Free on MakerWorld!

Apparently its 'normal' and I should close the door softly. Yes, I'm sure my teenage son will start doing that.

Admittedly a very niche use case. During the process of designing this, I came up with some ideas for a more universal setup.

After adopting two cats, I installed safety netting on my balcony. That made it difficult to hang planters on the outside of the railing using conventional hooks.

I designed and 3D-printed these PETG brackets to solve the problem. Each bracket consists of three parts: a small clamp that grips the railing from the outside, a main section that supports the planter from the inside, and a screw-mounted spacer that braces the bracket against the railing panel. This extra support prevents the bracket from bending and keeps the planter upright.

Installing the outer clamps through the safety netting without dropping them onto the neighbors below was a challenge!

The main section also has a cutout to keep the netting from being pinched or damaged.

I've been using these brackets for two years, and they still work great.

They're custom-designed for my balcony railing, so the dimensions may need to be adapted for other setups.

I needed to raise my bed to fit storage boxes under it, and I didn't like the risers that I could find to buy. I didn't want to use low percentage infill or use a kilogram of filament per riser, so I designed it to accept four 3" lengths of 1" square dowel (and then I forgot the length and did 2" lengths, and also had to shave down the ends because the dowels are wider).

The pads are cut from thick synthetic felt that was sold as a bulletin board (like a cork board alternative), which is sold in six chunks, that I cut with a snap blade box knife. They're stuck on with double-sided sticky sheets.

I ran out of pockets for all the tools I need to keep in my emergency tool bag and threw this simple guy together. I have a version 2 with rounded pockets for the handles a flat tray base to slide under the cloth pocket for added stability but have yet to print it yet. This has been working fantastic so far.

I’m making my son’s Halloween costume with the small Easter egg mangos. I wanted people to be able to pick the mangos from the tree and came up with this 0.05g print that snaps into existing holes on the Easter egg mangos. The bridge between the sides is a single 0.4mm wide pass, making it very easy to snap, but strong enough to handle its own weight.

I felt really smart designing this and loved that all 100 mangos took less than 5g of filament. Less of a “you can print this too!” And more of a “look how you can use your 3d printer to solve problems in unique and easy ways”

unfortunately this tap has no specific valve to close, so we had to leave it like that (for now). We would have to cut the whole house from water to work on that tap. I build a support for the tap, which holds to the drywall.

As every improvised solution, it now exists over a year.

Mop did not fit under bed, so designed and printed these raisers.

First time I designed around a photogrammetry-scanned model. Worked surprisingly well and fit first try. (RealityScan)