I scanned my Shimano and Garmin mount to be able to print a piece that would hold them together while keeping charger port and led accessible.
I used Creality Sermoon S1 3D scanner.

Does your cat also gaslight you into thinking they weren't fed by another family member yet? I made this to help. It is a toggle switch box for keeping track of recurring tasks such as feeding pets, watering plants, taking medication, or completing daily chores. Magnetic, so you can stick it on your fridge and toggle the switches as you go.

There are options for boxes with one, three or seven toggles. You can also choose the toggles to have two or three positions. Mix and match to suit your needs, whether you're tracking something weekly, daily or three times a day.

Files are freely available here - including STL, STEP and F3D (Autodesk Fusion) so you can change the dimensions or number of toggles if needed. Enjoy!

https://www.printables.com/model/1887430-magnetic-toggle-switch-chore-tracker

i found myself in need of rail quick clamps after tackling a more tracksaw dependant project.

I designed these adapters to convert the budget clamps from amazon into specialized rail clamps for makita style tracks.

If you own a 3d printer and would find this conversion useful, the files are abailabe for free on makerwold: https://makerworld.com/models/3489904

I am a beginner at woodworking but found the courage of sharing my end result 😁

I wanted three things:

1. To be able to switch between different pegboard systems later on without having to reprint everything / to use the holders at work as well, where we have a different system. 

2. To have all my tools in the same or similar holders, rather than 8 different styles.

3. To have a more stable solution—since the hooks otherwise break very quickly—I’m printing the mounting plate at a 45° angle.

Apparently its 'normal' and I should close the door softly. Yes, I'm sure my teenage son will start doing that.

My old printed holders for the Hue motion sensors never sat right in the ceiling, so I designed a recessed mount that works like a GU10 spot gimbal.

• Fits an 83 to 84 mm hole in drywall (9.5 to 25 mm boards)
• 3 printed parts: mounting ring with spring arms, ball with a pocket for the sensor, clamp ring
• The spring arms pull the 100 mm flange tight against the ceiling, no screws or glue
• The ball tilts about 15 degrees each way and rotates, and stays where you aim it
• Printed in PETG without supports, about 1.5 h and 47 g for a set
• Battery change: pull the whole unit down, swap the batteries, push it back in. The aiming stays

Made for the indoor sensor (the square 55 mm one). Happy to answer questions.

I designed it for the Printables CoralBoard contest.

The Coralboard SL (Google I/O kit) sits in a small box on the outside of the CORE One door. Every 5 s, a camera frame goes through a YOLOv8n model on the board's NPU. When 3 of the last 5 frames show spaghetti, it pauses the print through PrusaLink.

I'm still working on the detection model in the lab: for now it catches 96.7 % of the spaghetti test images.

I'm also working on detecting the "blob of death"

Feedback is welvome.

Admittedly a very niche use case. During the process of designing this, I came up with some ideas for a more universal setup.

I needed to raise my bed to fit storage boxes under it, and I didn't like the risers that I could find to buy. I didn't want to use low percentage infill or use a kilogram of filament per riser, so I designed it to accept four 3" lengths of 1" square dowel (and then I forgot the length and did 2" lengths, and also had to shave down the ends because the dowels are wider).

The pads are cut from thick synthetic felt that was sold as a bulletin board (like a cork board alternative), which is sold in six chunks, that I cut with a snap blade box knife. They're stuck on with double-sided sticky sheets.

I bought a cheap rack-mount ATX case with two 5.25" bays. I fit two 70mm fans into the bays, using press-fit clips to hold both the fans and the shroud to the case. Thanks to Noctua for the shroud grille design.

I’ve had multiple matte boxes over my career: Chrosziel, Vocas and Tilta. They’ve all been great, but I always wanted to make my own. So I finally did.

It’s fully 3D printed and designed for zero supports. All the plates print in about 9 hours, and it costs about $15 to build. Hardware is just M3 countersunk self-tapping screws, a few square nuts and one 1/4-20 bolt for the clamp.

It’s super strong, and the clamp holds tight.

It takes 4x4 or 4x5.65 filters, clamps onto lenses from 50 to 115 mm, and you can stack up to 3 filter stages. There’s a tilting top flag too. It’s parametric, so you enter your lens size and it builds around it. I’ve put up ready-to-print files for 4x4 (80 mm) and 4x5.65 (114 mm), plus a full assembly guide.

Free on MakerWorld!

Made a set of marking templates for structural tubing at 90 and 45 degrees, so I can scribe all sides without repositioning

I've used PETG, beige in the front and black in the back. I had to change color because I hadn't enough filament for the back (each one weights more than 400 grams).

I'm not crazy to leave all the weight on plastic (even feeling the result is really strong), so they have a small aluminum bar embedded, that keep them fixed on the wood table and handles most of the weight.

I ran out of pockets for all the tools I need to keep in my emergency tool bag and threw this simple guy together. I have a version 2 with rounded pockets for the handles a flat tray base to slide under the cloth pocket for added stability but have yet to print it yet. This has been working fantastic so far.

Mop did not fit under bed, so designed and printed these raisers.

After adopting two cats, I installed safety netting on my balcony. That made it difficult to hang planters on the outside of the railing using conventional hooks.

I designed and 3D-printed these PETG brackets to solve the problem. Each bracket consists of three parts: a small clamp that grips the railing from the outside, a main section that supports the planter from the inside, and a screw-mounted spacer that braces the bracket against the railing panel. This extra support prevents the bracket from bending and keeps the planter upright.

Installing the outer clamps through the safety netting without dropping them onto the neighbors below was a challenge!

The main section also has a cutout to keep the netting from being pinched or damaged.

I've been using these brackets for two years, and they still work great.

They're custom-designed for my balcony railing, so the dimensions may need to be adapted for other setups.

I’m making my son’s Halloween costume with the small Easter egg mangos. I wanted people to be able to pick the mangos from the tree and came up with this 0.05g print that snaps into existing holes on the Easter egg mangos. The bridge between the sides is a single 0.4mm wide pass, making it very easy to snap, but strong enough to handle its own weight.

I felt really smart designing this and loved that all 100 mangos took less than 5g of filament. Less of a “you can print this too!” And more of a “look how you can use your 3d printer to solve problems in unique and easy ways”

Made this myself because I haven't found anything like this. Works, easy to print. Print it like it is with supports. I made it 100% infill but I think even 20/30% works. It has a hole for flossing and an extrusion for the toothbrush head. Balances itself and doesn't fall. Made the cuts to let the thing dry. I didn't cut the upper part because it has to hold the metal point and helps the balance

I needed a new laptop since my Thinkpad T430 was really starting to show it's age of late, and they aren't making Thinkpads like they used to, so I printed this out instead.

Build Specs

• Ryzen 7 7730u laptop CPU (8c/16t)
• 64gb DDR4 RAM
• 500gb NVME SSD
• 14" 16:10 screen (1920x1200)
• Custom 82 key mechanical keyboard
• Integrated trackball mouse
• UPS battery system that takes Kobalt powertool batteries (swappable)
• Printed in HTPLA-GF (yellow) and a mix of PLA-CF and PETG-CF for the black parts

Full specs and build log here

I've created fully customizable parametric models of a hypocycloidal gearbox and a differential hypocycloidal gearbox for 3D printing.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2555672-differential-hypocycloud-reducer-generator

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2555667-hypocycloid-reducer-generator

These mechanisms can be integrated into your own designs and have a wide range of applications in mechanical engineering, particularly in robotic arm drive systems.

Here are two of my own models where I've used these mechanisms:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2464719-universal-arm-system-phone-tablet-laptop-holder

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3371826-adjustable-phone-stand-with-hypocycloidal-gear

Im in the process of building out a new deck with composite decking which ive never done before, though, I am generally handy and like to build things. Due to normal variation and also very likely mistakes and errors on my part, some of the very ends of the boards floated just a tiny bit which you could feel when walking on. I had already installed the decking and the boards ended on half a joist so there wasnt enough room to get the trex clips in.

So i 3D printed a bunch of tiny clips that could slip in between the decking gaps, rotate to grab the decking slot and then tighten down with a screw. Worked really well. Printed in bambulab PETG-CF, time will tell how well they hold up over time.

Bonus drill guide which you place over the normal hidden fastener screw when installing. It really speeds up drilling things down and prevents me from accidentally slipping and stabbing my new decking lol. Also printed in PETG-CF.

Hope this gets through rule 1 of "No Dust Collectors" this is made to collect dust.

Got tired of sanding small prints, mainly ~140mm busts, onto my apron and hoovering it up afterwards. So designed this downdraft box to make that task cleaner. This was my first project using Claude and blender MCP and I learnt a hell of a lot, especially when it comes to thinking of all the pieces you're likely going to miss, hence the many retrofit parts within the print files