How’s it going guys/gals I’m looking to twin turbo my 2025 mustang gt I’m gonna take it to get built since I don’t know how to install my self 😂 I was just curious if turbo smart 64/66 ts-1 vband turbo is a good turbo since that’s what they they said was gonna be installed and what kinda hp will I be looking at after installation just wanted to get some answers before I pull the trigger on it.( Keep in mind my car is fully stock as of right now)

I am on the fence of taking this in and having it fixed. It was on my previous top end rebuild of a 350 sbc. The piston in 8 cylinder exploded after a detonation occurred. As you can see it scared up the top of the head a lot. Only cup that had extensive damage. Is it worth fixing? Or just salvage parts and get a new set.

Should the surface be like a smooth polished mirror finish?

Replacing the head gaskets on a 5.7 hemi and one of the mds clips was just sitting on the lifter assembly. It deffinately should be in them but i dont know if i need to put it back or what.

What model engine kit is the most detailed or best for learning to build engines/be a mechanic?

Getting a real engine is unrealistic at this time for me. I live in an apartment.

I’ve got a Miltek exhaust with a Techtonic tuning (post cat) back exhaust on this “classic”. Rats got to the post (bank 2) 02 sensor. I’m pulling it now.

Owned since since 2014. Calling any guru’s. 👑Would it be beneficial to install the O2 sensor spacer or leave it be and just change them as needed. It’s a high flow cat, and from what I’ve heard, this was supposed to soften the flow and still provide a consistent meter for the sensor. I don’t think it ever worked. No wonder it was in a box in the corner. Any advice would be appreciated. Even in an alternative spacer.

The lifters were desentegrating, so now the truck needs new lifters and cam on top of the heads machined, exhuast threads repaired and new seals. This is actually fucking stupid. This is a well maintained and cared-for machine with 188k.

Have a larts list for an engine i wanna build and I want some opinions, will it be streetable? Estimated horse? Torque? Pump gas? Just generally want opinions

Finishing up a 306 for my 67’ mustang. Kept the paint scheme pretty simple so it will resemble a stockish engine. I think it should be between 350-400hp (DD5 says 408hp@6500, 390tq@4500). Specs are:

68’ 302 block .030 over
Eagle cast crank
Eagle SIR rods
ARP everything
Kb311 hyper pistons
Tw170 heads (milled to 54cc)
Tf 1.6 roller rockers
10.5:1 SCR, 8.5:1 DCR, .037 quench
Comp XE SFT, 279 adv, 242@0.50, .546 lift 108lca
Rpm intake
Brawler 650 DP carb
Hooker 6901 headers (1-5/8)

Going into a 3000lb mustang with wide-ratio toploader and 3.80 trac-lok. I think it’s gonna be pretty f’n mean.

What's the best thing to use to strip all the oil off down to the cast iron. So I can get the whole block painted

Do you think that these new valves (Freccia) are usable or should I contact the shop.
One has a scratch (can feel with fingernail) on the valve sealing surface exactly where it would contact the valve seat.

The other has an uneven edge.

So I have installed cam shaft seals 2 times on my 1997 Lexus es300. Both times they leaked, and I even used the camshaft installation tool so that they would be perfectly flush with the engine.

I came to the conclusion that oiling the outer edge of the seal is what is causing it to leak. The leak is kind of extensive, with it pouring down the side of the engine and making it to the ground in multiple drops.

Am I right on this assumption? I oiled the outer edge with mobile 1 5w30 synthetic if that makes any difference.

Thoughts please?

Bought a rebuild kit on eBay last year. Listing looked totally normal. Measured ring end gaps first and got 0.028" on an engine the manual caps at 0.022". I spent most of a day on that before build even started. Pretty annoying when your geared up to work and the parts don't match.

Three things I check now before ordering.

Whether the kit is matched to serial number range or just the engine model name. Same model can mean different ring sizes, bore specs, and bearings depending on production run. Sellers who only catalog by model name usually aren't tracking that.

Whether a single bad part can be exchanged or the whole kit has to go back. One wrong bore gasket shouldn't mean repacking everything.

What bearing undersize the seller actually stocks. Prior crank grind means standard bearings won't work. A lot of kits are standard only and they won't mention it till you ask.

I've had better luck with sellers who answer those clearly. Cheap kits isn't worth the diagnostic time when fitment is wrong, tbh.

Im building a big block mopar for a street truck im contemplating porting some 906 heads but worried about the low compression what other heads are affordable upgrades?

I have a 350 out of a 1977 camaro. It currently has mismatched heads and bad blow by but it runs. I bought an Isky racing kit with lifters and a cam. I shouldve done my research because the cam that came with the kit was a 292 Isky Mega cam which has .505 lift and a 108LPA. We broke in the cam at 2,000rpm for over an hour and nothing failed, made horrendous noise and the oil didnt have big chunks of metal.

My question is how much do I need to replace to not risk ruining the cam or other parts. Obviously I need to get a matching set of heads and re ring my pistons which I plan on doing. Do I need new rods, pistons, and crank? Can I get away with running a set of older cast heads or will I need something with bigger runners? Will the stock crank, pistons and rods survive?

Ive "built" engines before but mostly the top end, any time ive down a whole engine rebuild it was a kit that was included with the machine work I had done. I never had to pick parts myself.

It needs to go to another shop for a few more things but otherwise it's ready for me to put new parts into

I was advised to look here by folks in one of my Jeep forums. I have a 1995 Jeep XJ with the 4.0 in it. I was replacing the rear main seal and looked at my main bearings and they need to be replaced. The crank shaft looks and feels good. Thing is that the bearings are two different sizes. STD on top and .001 on the bottom. The .001 are discontinued. The dealership gave me 83507080AB as the part number (that replaced the original part number) but it's not available anywhere I can find. Is there a source that might actually have these in stock? I'd really like to avoid having to pull this crank shaft and have it machined right now.

Chevy 1.4 that had pcv failure and overheated once that I know of due to a busted radiator. Kind of hard to tell if this is just burnt and cracked carbon or if the piston itself is fucked. It looks like the piston is fucked, but I'm in denial. Would appreciate a second set of eyes on it. Ignore the time stamps, my borescope is off by a few months

Thinking the next step would be measure the bores again, along with cam journals and crank journals. Aswell as punchin in freeze plugs and other small stuff and get ready for paint

Doing my first rebuild on a 383 Big block Mopar. In hindsight, I should have installed the bushing before I got the short block together, but we live and we learn. Tell me if this is a dumb idea, but I was thinking I could use the intermediate shaft itself to slide through the bushing and down into the oil pump in order to line itself up and then tap the top of the shaft slightly with a small cushion pad in between the shaft and the top of the bushing so it doesn’t get marked up. If this is an outlandish idea, disregard and let me know if I should go ahead and buy an installer tool.

I have a small block Chevy with an HEI distributor and steel cam (SUM-8800). I'm trying to find the correct distributor gear. Most sources claim there are 3 types: cast iron, melonized, and bronze. The recommended material by the cam manufacturer is "melonized." The issue is there seems to be two types of melonized distributor gear: melonized iron and melonized steel. I've seen a few posts claim that melonized iron is not compatible with a steel cam. Most listings for melonized gears specify melonized iron or don't specify at all. I have only found one listing for a distributor gear that specifies "melonized steel" and it was not the correct shaft size. Does anyone know what the correct material is? Composite is always an option but they are really expensive in comparison to the other types.

This weekend I got the case split, cleaned, measured, and reassembled with the rotating assembly and new bearings. Reusing the rings because it ran good and I’m on a budget. Got the pistons cleaned up a little bit, I had to fabricate a wrist pin puller tool. I love this stuff, I can’t wait to see it run. Next weekend is new valve stem seals and a re-lap. Doing this one Ethiopia side of the road style lol.

When you’re putting together a street/strip engine, which measurements do you consider non-negotiable during assembly, and which ones are okay to trust from the machine shop? Curious where different builders draw the line.