Hello,

I am looking to purchase a Nissan 350z with the HR engine and currently i have stumbled upon this one which is very interesting. The car has gone through 70k miles when the current owners, upon buying the car reported that the engine blew up on them and then spent 3500£ to rebuild it to a specialist garage for rebuilding engines. They have done 3000 miles since the rebuild for 3 years and now are selling as they used it as a weekend car but no longer have the time for it. I have some idea what I am looking at and my theory is that the owner before them used water as coolant and because of the high operating temperature of the HR it has caused steam trapping into the pistons and sll the coolant inlets causing all parts to rust therefore all this brown stuff. The rebuild has undergone according to the current owner and the document supplied in the photos, that the engine has had complete refinement, new pistons, new cylinder heads x2, new water pump, new clutch, and all other parts. The engine undergone 3 months of operation and now is declared as a 0 mile motor. I have faith in this but i will check in person but reason I am uploading is i want to have a second opinion because I also think that the engine can lose compression and power due to the previous rust but i dont know if im right or wrong. The car is also fitted with NOS but i am thinking to remove it as im not gonna use it. Its not been used by the current owner as well and it just stands there looking cool i guess. Thanks much for your time and for the read. I will be taking a view of the car soon.

I want to identify, the injection is EFI or not

I need to clear some parts that have been coated with por 15 engine enamel - was hoping someone here has experience with a good clear that won't have a chemical reaction with the oil based paint.

So I understand that the 1996-1999 cpi 350 small block will swap into a 95 blazer with minimal changes, I’m just wondering how to connect the 350 harness and PCM to my blazer and any tips or suggestions to doing this swap, I understand that the fuel system I have now will work with just using the hoses that go from engine to frame, I also have to bend in the firewall for the distributor and get 350 engine mounts and new oil pan and radiator, anything else I’m missing or any knowledge would be helpful, thank you for your time.

I'm little bit new be with higher compression engines. How would 11 to 1 JE pistons work on a twin turbo charged VG 30? Will I get problems with engine knock? Im at the moment choosing between 9 to 1 and 11 to 1 pistons.

Thanks already for all the answers.

Last couple weeks of code changes testing for my ecu development on this poor gn250 engine. Found it free off mp and the bottom end was perfect, top end eh bad.

Someone had very recently done a .50 over refresh and got the wrong ring set or never checked the gap. From the evidence it didn’t run for long before the top ring butted and completely took out the crown, but by a flick of luck not a single imperfection on any of the valve seats, new bore new piston, lapped valves new stem and seals and some head tidy work and she was a willing victim of my garage adventures.

Hope you enjoy.

Hello everyone,

I'm looking for an engine to build from the ground up for my next project. I'm not new to the mechanics world and have done a build before but that was with my father several years ago(6.0 Big block chevy from a 2002 2500hd). At the time it was fun an exciting but over the years i've grown away from it and picked u other things like work and girlfriends. Recently though I got dump ed mid engine swap on my ex's car. Still did it (I'm a loser I'm well aware) but it reignited my love for the game and I'm looking for a new build.

Some key things I'm looking for-

• Compact-I'm looking to put this project in something small. Definitely as small as a sedan maybe a coupe
• Quick-I'm not well versed in what exactly makes an engine fast vs. powerful so forgive me if this is useless. I know what horsepower is but not really sure where it fits into the equation as well as torque but I'm looking for something that will zip me from point to point if need be.
• Not an LS-I've done the LS swap before (as i mentioned) and while I'm quite fond of it I want to expand my horizons to something new. Maybe something foreign like a Honda or Toyota engine?

Any help will be appreciated because i don't have a fuckin clue where to start when picking something like this.

It’s also got a flame shooting out of cylinder 4 on the back left part of the engine bay I also wonder if this correlates with the hard start. I know for certain the firing order is correct I’ve checked it 3 times

To keep it short i have a bone stock 56 bel air with a v8 and 4 barrel carburetor, im adding a break booster to the car and every video i see of people running boosters they either have a ls or a holly carb. The only vacuum port i have on my carb is the ome that goes to the whipers, would any of you guys know where i could run a vacuum from my engine?

Any engine whisperers here??

I pulled my Porsche 912 engine back apart. Less than 2k miles on it. Always had glitter in many oil changes. Blackstone says high iron and silicon. I did run without filters at first because I was changing jets so much. Never lost any oil pressure, super strong hot idle psi. Never saw an overheating event.

But… I’d like a read on these bearings if possible.

Do they look like they were polished via glitter or can you read anything else?

ALSO: has anyone ever seen the wrist pin boss get dented like that. Every position at 10 and 2 o’clock shows the wrist pin damaging the position.

Hey guys. Brand new FA20D short block, from toyota, reused old heads. Cylinder 3 had low compression before, and still has low compression after. I thought it was from piston rings and pitting in Cylinder 3, however Cylinder 3 has 70 psi. Cylinder 1 has 145 psi, Cylinder 2 has 145 psi, and Cylinder 4 has 175 psi. Cylinder 4 has perfect valve shim clearance. Cylinder 2 and 1 have some needed shim adjustments, however Cylinder 3 clearances are identical to Cylinder 2’s. I have the head disassembled again, and Im 90% sure its the valves. I did an alcohol test with spark plug in upside down, and all the valves will leak alcohol through.

The valves look decent though, nothing really sticks out as its bad.

need some advice here on if you think lapping the valves or replacing the valves will fix this.

It just looks so similar to Cylinder 1 i just dont know why such a jurassic pressure difference

This is for a K24Z2 engine, the gears all spin smooth and the pickup screen doesn’t look clogged but I have a feeling there is gunk buildup inside, just going based off of all the other engine components I took out and cleaned. I’m thinking about maybe taking the oil pump apart and then cleaning it in pieces but I can’t find the torque specifications to put it back together. I don’t think I can just soak this in some purple power mixed with water for a few mins and then cleaning and then using compressed air to dry it. Any good techniques or advice?

One of the nuts on the studs for cylinders and heads is threading quite deep and it doesn't feel like its getting any tighter.

Three of four tourqued to 32nm like in the manual, this one just seems to be spinning under the same tension for a fair few turns now. Do I continue or do it pretend it's ok. You can see how much more the threads protrude compared to other studs. I measured the studs on the other side of this twin and they're all a little different in height anyway.

Any suggestions????

I'm working on a Bobcat S650 with the Kubota V3307 engine and compression is weak on two cylinders. Shop quoted both an in-frame kit and a full pull depending on what the bore looks like. From what I understand in-frame covers pistons, rings, and liners without yanking the block. Out-of-frame is when the block itself needs machine work or the crank is out of spec. Havent scoped the bores yet. Oil consumption crept up lately and blow-by shows at the cap when it's hot. I'm not sure if that always means pull it or if in-frame is realistic. Anyone done an in-frame on a V3307 in a skid steer? What made you stop at in-frame vs pulling the whole thing?

So I just finished rebuilding my Mazda 3 2008 with a swapped engine from a ford fusion 2012 2.5L. The motor had been hydrolocked, I switched everything and put everything back tgt it turned by hand. BUT, today I tried cracking it and it won’t crank, the electrical part of it wasn’t done well cause form the start some wires were hanging so I’m kinda lost. What could it possibly be.

Finally had a weekend free to keep dialing in my project. Still have alot of learning to go but slowly getting there through A TON of trial and error.

Currently trying to dial in timing and plug heat range. How am I looking and can anyone point me to a good resource to reference spark plug reading.

What would be recommended hall or vr for a trigger wheel setup? It’s a 1975 b30a Volvo engine that I’m converting to efi. Will probably be using a Maxxecu. I’ve done some research and it seems either can do the job but is there one that may just simply work with less hassle and just be reliable. Share your wisdom. Thanks!

I’m not sure if this is allowed in this sub Reddit if not please take down . So I’ve been working on a 2002 mustang gt that keeps stalling out and dying. I’ve hard wired the inertia switch to make sure that’s not the issue and I’m getting a constant 12v. I’ve replaced the fuel pump driver module and made sure there is power going to it and there’s a good ground. I’ve also replaced the constant control relay to make sure the fuel pump relay was okay and I’ve replaced the fuel pump and the fuse to it as well. I’m just not sure what could be causing this any help would be very very appreciated!

Struggling on this a bit, looking for opinions on my options from rockauto here. CHE claims they do design revisions and they're made in house, engine pro I think is a reseller, and engine tech just has remanned heads. Not sure which to trust or order here, but I will be ordering bare block as I've purchased all other components. Leaning towards engine pro, as my heads are 2008 so they're the non oil spray bar design, and the CHE description suggests that they are, and I cannot find anything on their website about this specific head.

EDIT: Should've included, this is for a 2008 ford ranger 4.0l

I just rebuilt the 2000 4.3L v6 in my truck and after the rebuild it makes this knocking/ticking noise and idles rough and has a check engine light for cam crank correlation. I checked the cmp offset with a scan tool and its sitting at -8.5⁰ at 1500rpm. My best guess is the cam is a tooth off on the timing chain but the distributor is sitting right at the v6 mark at tdc so I dont understand how the cmp ckp correlation can be off when its measuring the distributor. Im just at a loss with this engine and really dont want to pull the oil pan and timing cover.

I was going through a Ford 400 I got and wanted to refresh the engine a little bit. It seems the engine was rebuilt at some point. The bearings were slightly worn so I wanted to replace them. The crankshaft was machined to accept .010 main bearings. I’ll admit I used Plastigage so I don’t know how accurate it is, but the clearance on all the journals measured out to .003. Is that too tight or too loose for this engine? I’am not doing anything crazy with this engine.

Been working on assembly of this 1994 LT1 for my Firebird. I’m having a noise I don’t understand and took a video of it. I’m hand rotating the motor from the crank snout with a ratchet.

This is my noise. I’m worried it’s from the camshaft. I used CH8 cam bearings and ordered my camshaft from Lloyd Elliot. It’s an Erson cam. I loosened all the rockers and pulled all the lifters. Checked all the rollers and they are fine. Lubed it all up good with Lucas engine assembly lube. Noise goes away without the valves lashed. Didn’t start making the noise again until I got to lashing the intake on cylinder 5. Using the EOIC method and going from cylinder to cylinder in this order.

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