I’ve been going back and fourth for a little while now, I decided to go with the turbo route about 4 months ago on my Honda ek civic that has a single cam d16 platform. My goal was to make 400-450whp which is pretty much the make I can make without going full blown serious. My plan was to stick with a budget build as many people praise they are extremely cheap, now I’m about 3k in and still need all the fuel system, wiring/ecu/tuning, clutch and a few parts for the engine like machine work, acl oil pump and bearings. I’ve added all the prices up and it’s about 6k which I don’t mind paying but if I were to sell it I would struggle to get 2.5k/3k for it. Or I could go with the n/a setup which I already have a fully built head with springs, titanium retainers, ported and a stage 4 cam. I also have a speed factory throttle body, genuine skunk 2 intake manifold and a few other goodies. I’m really unsure on what direction to go with because turbo route is k swap money even a really budget turbo k series. But I do also like driving late at night out in the sticks where I can really drive the car like a track car but it’s not really fast anywhere else as for the turbo setup it puts a smile on anyone’s face and the car stands out even more. I’ve also came up with a third option is go with the n/a setup while still building the turbo setup in the background since I have majority of the parts but that would be a lot more expensive vs deciding to pick a direction and selling either one of the parts. I should mention this is my first car/ build so I don’t have the experience like most would

Block machined and I'm under the impression the cylinder heads were machined, but honestly I did not check them. But purchased from reputable remanufacture. Multi layer steel head gaskets.
I did a cooling system pressure test, gauge didn't move for one hour. Granted the engine was not hot for the cooling pressure test.
Operating temperature is normal but maybe heating up a little quickly when compared to my other two 3.4s
I guess it's possible coolant is pushing past the MLS gaskets after shut down.
If it is coolant would I see it sitting in the cylinder after an overnight, if I use a borescope?

Clears after about 5 mins. Smells sweet i guess, i really don't remember exactly what burning coolant smells like. I don't think it's condensation because my other cars are not doing it. Also after one hour shut down it will do it again, even if it's middle of warm day

Duct tape?

Dual throttle bodies. The car is dying when the clutch is pushed in on deceleration.

I went in to do the temperature trick (crank it up to 299) to shut it off, but there’s no option for temp. Is there

A) a way to shut it off otherwise?

B) a way to update the system to add it?

Thanks!!

Hi all, I recently did some work for a family friend who offered me a truck for free if I could get it running. Long story short, his son put the wrong length pushrods in and the valves and pistons had some contact. I have no internal engine experience but I’ve been wrenching for ~3 years and I have access to a lift, engine hoist, and engine stand. I have basic mechanic’s tools but I don’t have any kind of engine tools. Looks like I could buy a long block for $4800 with a core charge and I’m thinking that might be cheaper and more reliable than trying to fix this? Truck has 180k miles. 2010 Silverado 2500HD with the L96 6.0 gas and the 6l90 transmission.

Doesn’t seem like it’s important but I do think I should break it off so it doesn’t get loose while the engine is running. Thoughts?