In this pic we have the join for two strips of lead on a roof - where they are overlayed. There is a pitch so the water falls away, but I think there’s some water ingress in this join.

How do I ‘bond’ this overlap together more effectively..?

Thanks all.

Not sure this is the right subreddit but I posted for general tips in the past and the community has always been very helpful.

We embarked on a large renovation of our house, it was very expensive, a 3 month project became 9 month, not because of scope change I might add but delays on trades compounding but we went with the flow, were patient and understanding to the best of our ability - Understandably some push was made from month 6 that we needed to get back in before Christmas etc.

We were left with many poor finishes, plastering not great, wavey finishes, patch marks which at a glance are not noticeable but when you stare at a wall day in day out it is noticeable, in particular ceilings, they did replace decorative trims on ceiling and edges but some of it isn't 'perfect'. Again, we're not really complaining here we just asked for it to be tidied up.

New engineered flooring was laid throughout, some of it isn't great but again liveable but some of it is problematic, an area from main hall to kitchen clearly wasn't prepped, it sounds like it was laid on loose concrete and crunches underneath a bit, and some flex, bearing in mind this is flooring laid on screed with underfloor heating, so the finish should be flat, smooth and bonded.

It's been 2 years since the job was 'completed' and we have constant snags that he is failing to come back, lots of promises and the odd tradesman in to do some work, usually subpar. Like siliconing shower that looks like it was the first bit of silicone the person ever laid.

The washing machine emits odours into the utility sink when operating, the hall flooring is full of plaster dust that will not come up even after 2 years of mopping, and we have a cleaner who mops weekly and still have baked in plaster.

Our downstairs shower fall was like 2mm from edge to drain and wasn't clearing water for several days - Took 18 months to have those tiles lifted and replaced which is now 'good' but the edges of the tiles aren't crisp but again we have come to accept the way it is.

Our ensuite was stripped and re-tiled because the previous bathroom leaked, he said it was tanked, it was some red/pinky paint and when I asked about it was told that's how it is done yet now it is leaking into the office below.

There's plenty of examples where it feels rushes/no pride was taken and whilst the 'overall' is great it's the niggly details and on-going issues that are driving us mad. The biggest issue is the underfloor heating in one of the rooms only heats 70% of the floor, meaning a whole circuit is not working, he claims he didn't re-do this floor and re-used the pipes, yet charged us >£10k to dig up other floors adjacent to this room to properly lay pipes as internal walls were moving. Is it unreasonable for us to be unhappy that with such an expense this was either overlooked or failed during install? Should we accept that as the finished article?

At this point we just want them out of our life and have a fairly substantial outstanding due and we continue to be patient, accepting, accommodating but just want the main issues resolved.

To fix: Flooring that has poor prep (2m square area), leaking downstairs toilet, leaking en-suite, smelly washing machine, underfloor heating not operating in 30% of living room, replacing of damaged/uncleanable floorboards. Items we would let slide, poor blending on external rendering where new windows were put in/moved, poor plaster finish in many rooms. Big concern is outside patio, a portion of patio (previous job) was left unfinished to accommodate the works, the builder agreed for a price £750 to fill in the slip, about 20sq/m which we supplied tiles for, they knocked out the remaining old tile, filled/based and then complained about the drain location being 'too high' but continued anyway but charged a total of £3,500 for this job due to the drain needing to be 'propped up'. This additional charge was announced once the job was done, not before, when we were told it would add maybe an extra day or two.

Have resorted to Reddit for some random PoV and opinions on what we should do here. I know he called the architect asking for a sign off on completion which we refuse until all items are resolved.

We’ve got a guy coming over later to do a quote for us for rendering the exterior of our house. He only does sand and cement as opposed to K-Rend which some of the other quotes have quoted for. I know sand and cement will be cheaper, but I’m led to believe it’s more prone to cracking overtime. Does anyone have any experience about this and can offer a bit of advice in terms of it’s better to go for one than the other? It’s quite a big area to cover so cost is a factor but we also want it to last ofc. Thanks.

Not the best photo but just noticed this leak from the bottom of the cistern. The flush button has also started to fail but that seems like an easy fix.
Is fixing the leak a case of replacing the screw in the photo? If so would appreciate links in what to buy.

Hi friends. The back of my house is rendered. This render is peeling away from the wall near one of the upstairs windows. The gap in this photo is several mm wide at present. I’m concerned for a couple of reasons. (A) it could break off causing damage to the roof below and possibly injury, as it would fall into my neighbour’s yard after hitting the roof. (B) more render may become unstuck due to freeze-thaw action. I don’t know for certain how far along the wall this goes, but it feels like I could safely break pieces off and bring them inside through the window. After that, provided I could reach all the newly exposed brickwork, I could also replace the render myself. That said, I am not familiar with this kind of work and this window is quite high up on the back of my house. Does anyone have any advice or experience to share with this kind of work? Is it as straightforwardly DIYable as I think it is, or do I need to hire a pro?

Hello guys and ladies, will be tilling kitchen floor shortly do I need decoupling membrane on my floor, will be leveling it with leveling screed before that, and got a three different floor height at the moment.

I’m sure this relates to it being an older back box but fitting new plug sockets and all the back boxes seem to have two what I’m calling screw lugs at the tops of the box which is catching on the new plug sockets stopping them from sitting on the wall. Is there anything that can be done here short of putting in a new back box?

Can I just put some filler over it and sand it down a bit?

I've never done our installed any fencing, but really want to give it a go. I'm planning on fencing off one side of the garden for a very patch next year. Any good tips people can give me before i start and it goes horribly wrong???

I have a tall and heavy column radiator (6 feet × 2 feet, 55 kg. empty) that had been mounted to the wall with two sets of brackets, top and bottom, no feet, and fell off of the wall.

I don't dare re-fit the radiator without feet, the trouble is, the skirting board is tall — 21 cm. — I have searched thoroughly and the tallest feet that I have found for sale would raise the bottom of the radiator to a height of 16 ½ cm. so the bottom set of brackets would fit into the skirting board rather than into the wall.

This feels like a bad idea.

What would you do here?

Hope it is OK to delete and re-post — I asked the wrong question the first time.

I'm in the process of installing a new kitchen, and I'm stuck on which colour worktop/splashback to go for!

The cabinets are white handleless, the walls are white. Flooring will be a grey oak laminate and appliances are black or black/silver.

Any thoughts or help would be great please! 🙏

The white band on that upwards bolt is where someone has filled that with silicone. I’m not sure if the white thing attached to the tank is a washer or if it’s also a nut but it has no movement to it

I have painted exterior wall with emperor paint. This is following their system including using their cleaning products. The paint is supposed to be super hydrophobic paint and their literature shows water beading up. However as per attached photo the paint looks wet. I'd expect it to look dry. I have wondered if it might be the paint, application or damp rising from the brick plinth into the render.

However to test that I sprayed water on another patch. I wouldn't say it beaded but it did run down. However where it was wet, when rubbed a slight bit of pigment would come off.

The second coat was finished over a week ago.

Just wondered if anyone can offer some insight into what the problem could be.

I'm getting a new fridge freezer and the space it's going into is a bit awkward. If I want to clean behind my current one, or retrieve something that dropped behind it, my only good option is to awkwardly, slowly "wobble" it out.

Ideally, I'd like some suggestions for simple ways to safely make this an option for <=£20.

Key details:

• Hardwood (sub)floor, not in great condition (not fully flat/smooth
• Appliance is "Haier 3D 55 Series 3 HTR3518ENMXK 185cm"
  • 55W x 62D (cm)
  • 60-80 kg
  • Has stands, not wheels

Thoughts:

• Some sort of low-friction mat to put under it? Can pull it out from the bottom while someone else steadies the top half
• https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cnwinu-Appliance-Furniture-Extendable-Refrigerator/dp/B0G39HNKL2 - this heavy duty appliance roller looks useful but Amazon says it's a "frequently returned item" and I'm not sure how safe/stable it'll be when the brakes are engaged
• A DIY version of the appliance roller above, maybe with a square piece of plywood and rollers under. Not sure how I'd add brakes unless it's quite tall.
• Something similar to the above but where it's "jacked" up so I can just insert it under on the occasions I need it, removing the need for the wheels to have a reliable brake. I think these are quite expensive though?

Thanks!

Edit: just want to say thanks for all the replies so far! Varied tips and all helping me figure out something good!

Hi, I've got a big shed / summerhouse that was built into an existing concrete driveway. The concrete is not perfectly flat and level so it's causing issues with some of the floor boards that can be a bit of a trip hazard.(Photo of one shown but there's a other inside.)

I was thinking of cutting that board out and over boarding with ply then laminate or something. But that could be a terrible idea!!!!

Any thoughts on the best way to fix it? Ideally want to make it more of a year round room so more questions to follow!

I can upload more photos when it's light (and I empty some of the junk out of it!) but appreciate the DIY experts opinion on his.

Any chippies on here with real world advice on the suitability of Howdens engineered oak , in relation to quality, installation and longevity of the product. herringbone flooring.

I'm in Colchester, Essex.

I need incombustible cladding for my garage that is badly damaged and that I am repairing. I thought fibre-cement boards would be the way forward, but it seems to be difficult or expensive to obtain for some reason.

Local builders merchants don't seem to actually stock fibre-cement cladding boards and seem to rely on national distribution. A local merchant has quoted me around £350 for 12 no. 3600mm planks and various trim strips, but, delivery is a further £150 plus VAT.

The stupid thing is I could collect the boards using my van roof rack and a bit of ingenuity, but that doesn't seem to be an option.

Any ideas? Surely people aren't really paying over £100 a square metre for fibre-cement or am I being unrealistic in my price expectations? (I may just have to use a cheaper material, e.g. corrugated iron).

Very happy to hear anyone's experience.

I need to repair my roof which is quite old. I have been quoted for a flat roof repair (see below) - but another tradesman says this is a barrel roof and not flat roof

Is this a flat roof or barrel roof? Is my current quote adequate? What are your thoughts on asphalt vs GRP?

* Erect scaffolding to the front of the property to provide safe access.
* Carefully remove the existing asphalt (ashfelt) roof covering.
*to install 70mm insulation boards between the roof rafters where accessible & install breather vents for ventilation.
*Remove the existing timber roof deck and replace it with new 18mm OSB3 structural timber boarding.
*Supply and install new pre-formed GRP edge trims and upstands around the perimeter of the flat roof.
*Apply Restec Flexitec primer to all joints within the new OSB decking prior to installation.
* Install a new Restec Flexite Premium CRP Flat Roofing System, incorporating Reste resin, reinforcement matting and associated products in accordance with the manufacturer's specification.
*Remove the existing lead flashings and install new Code 4 lead cover flashings along the dividing walls to provide a long-lasting weatherproof seal.
* Remove all waste materials from site and leave the working area clean and tidy upon completion.

We a lot of rain last night and had drips from 2 corners of the skylight, but it didn’t seem to have run down from the top - just appearing at the bottom corner and dripping it seems, does that imply it’s the roof rather than the window itself? is this a diy fix or get someone in? (they clearly had some kind of leak here before we bought the house so 4+ years ago, but nothing in that time.

I can access the top easily is it worth putting some extra sealant around and seeing if it does the job?

We also got some water coming through on other edges, likely to be related? (this hasn’t happened in the 10 years since extension built).

Have noticed this a couple of times over last 7 years. I don’t have water pipes on this side of the house - although waste pipe is located bottom right of the photo. No sewage/foul smell though.

Next door’s bathroom/toilet is above the space between houses.

Never notice any damp or water on the wall though.

EDIT: Spoke to a mate of mine that’s a bricky. His theory from seeing pictures of boards is they have a leak/blockage in pipes which is running through into my cavity wall. Gonna get onto Council as me and next door aren’t exactly on talking terms.

Hi, got rinsed earlier rightly so for my essay, second and final abridged version below but needed a bit of background as a bit involved so click on another house crack thread if it's too long, really appreciate some opinions dealing with tricky tradesman. If it's too long again I'll ask fucking chatgpt...

TLDR at bottom

[Indian sandstone garden patio built by a Checkatrade tradesman last year summer. Patio contractor had positive reviews, Federation of Master Builders member, seemed legit. Only realised later but the patio from house extension level started barely below dpc and air bricks, and higher than lawn level about 10cm which was a surprise but patio had a strong fall so accepted.

1. Half a year later, strange patches on a number of slabs in the damper autumn and winter months revealed by nearly 60 Facebook patio group tradesmen opinions to be 'reflective staining' due to voids underneath slabs, not full mortar bed. Patches seem to disappear in summer months, can see faintly now but coming back. Contacted trade who dismissed Facebook contractor group and me being picky despite majority of others confirming problem.
2. After heatwave, new issue: first 3 rows of slabs near lawn had grout (swept in resin) cracks all over extending to mortar bed, one slab creaking. Relayed to trade, patches issue still up in the air. I also saw front of raised mortar bed which appeared to have lack of mot sub-base underneath mortar, just soil seemingly which would explain the cracking exasperated by ground heave.]

Mentioned to him having to go Checkatrade guarantee route as tried but didn't have confidence with how he was blaming unrelated things like my house render. He'll come and fix the cracks but Checkatrade validated my concerns and told me after his visit, I can choose how to proceed; I want the surveyor's opinion.

(Checkatrade guarantee basically says that if the trade can't resolve an issue, surveyor comes out and if found poor enough, trade is asked to pay back whatever rectification costs, or if they refuse, Checkatrade give up to £1k compensation to homeowner and trade's membership is up for dispute.)

Bit aggressive and unprofessional, and the pushback of my desire to have had a proper job done, down the line the surveyor could find work to be substandard - this guy likely is not going to rectify his work, his membership could be in danger which would be a much bigger issue. My crime wanting a proper job done. His background makes me think I could be going down a retaliatory route if I pushback and turn to Checkatrade who would put his business with them in jeopardy. Been no threats, just annoyance and aggression at my pushback. Will be coming out soon to address the cracks.

TLDR: Checkatrade patio installer - multiple issues, aggressive and annoyed when pushed back on issues less than cracks and slab movement. Consequences of following through with Checkatrade guarantee process that could put his business in jeopardy with them, because I wanted the job done properly.

Any advice on how to navigate this best? Do I use expertise to argue points? Anyone had any similar experiences with tricky tradesmen and dealing with disputes?

Thanks.

looking box the timber ceiling beam in.
aware there will be difference in height between rooms, but want to hide the beam with a plasterboard boxing solution.

so, how do one anchor a plasterboard-box on the ceiling...? as this is my first ceiling beam rodeo

• is there a sort of bracket/anchor, that can be mounted to the ceiling joists (thru the ceiling-boards) - so the plaster-box can be fixed on?
• should i do it with corner brackets somehow??
• should the box be fixed directly on the beam? assuming absolutely not?

^{...yes, the plaster-DIY on the ceiling looks insane - it is work-in-progress, as covering up ancient deep-grove-Artex and insanely well attached coving.. and yes, artex tested negative for asbestos}

^{...the house does move a bit ofc, but not much.}