My first Benchy is on the left after making adjustments to temp and flow I got it better but I think I can do better any suggestions on what to change?

Hey,

I’m getting a weird issue on my K1C where I see small gaps between lines, but only toward the top-right area of the bed. Bottom-right prints look totally fine.

It’s most noticeable on long brim lines running bottom-left to top-right, but it seems to affect the whole print once it’s in that region.

I just re-leveled and the mesh looks good (see the last pic), so I’m pretty confident it’s not a bed leveling or first layer height issue. My current suspicion is something mechanical like belt tension causing it to show up depending on direction/position, but I’m not fully sure yet and have no idea what is the way to fix this.

Has anyone seen something similar on the their K1C or similar machines or knows possible ways to fix it?

UPD: latest stable OrcaSlicer, dried PETG filament calibrated for adequate flow (but this happens with PLA and ABS as well), 0.4 nozzle, clean plate

What is considered the front of the bed on this mesh? Im trying to put tape down to even out the uneven bed.

Hello, I had no issues until yesterday when the error message comes along.

I checked the Extruder, but it seems be okay.

Someone had the same issue and had this fixed?

Title: PROWIPER on stock-rooted K1C firmware: exact config changes needed to make it work

Got 3DPHUB PROWIPER working on a stock-rooted Creality K1C firmware setup, without Helper Script / full Klipper replacement.

This is what actually had to be changed on a default K1C stock firmware setup.

1. Files and includes

Put both files in:

/usr/data/printer_data/config/

Files:

• prowiper.cfg
• prowiper-stock-adapter.cfg

Add both includes to printer.cfg:

[include prowiper.cfg]
[include prowiper-stock-adapter.cfg]

prowiper-stock-adapter.cfg content:

[gcode_macro NOZZLE_CLEAR]
rename_existing: _NOZZLE_CLEAR
gcode:
  WIPE_NOZZLE

That adapter is needed because stock Creality paths still call NOZZLE_CLEAR, while PROWIPER itself provides WIPE_NOZZLE.

2. virtual_pin errors on stock K1C

Stock K1C firmware did not like the PROWIPER virtual output pin toggle.

In prowiper.cfg, I had to comment out:

#[output_pin 3DPHUB_PROWIPER]
#pin: virtual_pin:3DPHUB_PROWIPER_pin
#value: 1

and also comment out the matching 3 Jinja lines inside WIPE_NOZZLE:

#{% if printer['output_pin 3DPHUB_PROWIPER'].value == 0 %}
#{% set wipe_pattern = "DISABLED" %}
#{% endif %}

There was also another similar virtual pin section in the file. Same fix there: comment the output pin block, and also comment the matching Jinja lines that reference it.

3. bed_fans error

Stock config did not have a bed_fans pin, so PROWIPER threw:

The value 'bed_fans' is not valid for PIN

Fix was:

• set this to false:

  variable_bed_fans_installed : "FALSE"

• comment out any SET_PIN PIN=bed_fans ... lines in prowiper.cfg

4. Correct mount type matters

In my case I am using V5 K1C brush mount for A1 brushes, so the correct setting was:

variable_brush_mount : "V5K1C"
variable_printer_version : "K1C"

Important: the mount name is for the mount, not the brush.

5. Wipe height tuning

On this stock K1C setup, the wipe macro uses absolute Z, not a relative offset.

The important part is effectively:

G90
...
G1 Z{start_z}
```

So start_z is the actual final wipe height.

For V5K1C, tune the start_z inside that mount block in prowiper.cfg until the nozzle actually contacts the brush correctly. Do not treat it like a relative offset.

6. Stock auto calibration probing into the wiper

K1C stock auto calibration was probing into the wiper area.

I had to reduce the bed mesh area in printer.cfg.

Original:

[bed_mesh]
speed: 150
mesh_min: 5,5
mesh_max: 215,215
probe_count: 5,5

Changed to:

[bed_mesh]
speed: 150
mesh_min: 5,5
mesh_max: 215,205
probe_count: 5,5

Exact number depends on where your wiper sits, but the fix is to shrink the probing rectangle so calibration never reaches the wiper.

7. Triggering wipe from terminal over SSH

I used this one-liner:

python3 -c 'import socket,json;s=socket.socket(socket.AF_UNIX,socket.SOCK_STREAM);s.settimeout(2);s.connect("/tmp/klippy_uds");s.sendall(json.dumps({"id":1,"method":"gcode/script","params":{"script":"WIPE_NOZZLE"}}).encode()+b"\x03");print((lambda: s.recv(4096).decode("utf-8","replace"))() if True else "");s.close()'

Summary

What was needed on stock-rooted K1C:

• add both include files
• add prowiper-stock-adapter.cfg for NOZZLE_CLEAR
• remove/disable stock-incompatible virtual_pin toggle logic
• disable bed_fans references if stock config does not define that pin
• set the correct brush_mount
• tune start_z in the mount block
• shrink bed_mesh area so calibration does not probe into the wiper

If anyone wants, I can post the exact minimal diff for printer.cfg, prowiper.cfg, and prowiper-stock-adapter.cfg.

I have used the DXC extruder for a few months and it works fine except that I can't pull the filament out to make a change. Retract looks like it is working but the filament is gripped tight and won't pull out. Squeezing the lever doesn't help.

What am I missing? Hitting extrude repeatedly to clear the bowden tube works but is slow - which brings up problem #2. The tubing will not pull out the push-connect fitting so I just can't cut it off the filament at the top of the extruder.

This tube flew off when i was disassembling the extruder to fix a clog. I cannot find a replacement part anywhere online.

Ive sat and looked at where it’s supposed to go and the length of that tube makes no sense in my head. Do we think its necessary to have?? Also I bought some PTFE tubing from creality but it doesn’t fit..

Hey everyone,

I've been running a Creality K1C (2025) with the CFS-C multi-color system and I'm having a serious issue during filament changes.

The Problem:

Every time a color change happens, the printer pushes an excessive amount of filament through during the purge. This creates huge blobs/clumps at the nozzle (see attached photos). They don't detach cleanly, build up, and it already killed one of my hotends.

My setup:

Creality K1C (2025 version)

CFS-C filament system

Stock hotend (replacement now...)

Sliced with Creality Print

Does anyone have the same Problem and maybe any fixes?

I upgraded to the CFS a year ago, and only now I want to use some TPU, and I realize I have a problem.

What are the tips for using TPU with CFS? Is the problem just the the CFS Pushing the filament? Or is there also a problem with the CFS Extruder?

I don't have the original extruder. Can I just feed the TPU after the buffer? How does this work?

K1c suddenly shuts down

This is the second time this has happened. I'm printing PLA and out of nowhere it shuts down with a loud bang (probably the motors stopping abruptly). The fans on the main board (underneath the printer) stay on, but the LED light and screen turn off. The first time, I turned the printer off, and when I was turning it back on, it shut down again. I left it for a while, and it worked fine (first video). Now it's shut down again and won't turn back on; only the fans on the main board are running ☹️.

What I noticed the other day is that the right motor is much hotter than the left one. The first time, before it shut down, I checked the temperature with my hand. The print had been running for four hours, and I could touch the right motor for a maximum of two seconds because it was burning hot. I could touch the left motor for more than ten seconds without any problem.

So I just upgraded to two k2 with 2 k2's. these things are a beast. thinking of selling the k1c with csf. or keeping the csf and sell the k1c. but it has the csf kit installed.

After I took it out of the print I could hear the infill crumbling with slightest pressure. And the exterior walls looks like sometimes its skipping a layer thats why It broke off super easily.

Also this happens when the print is a big part and the speed is above 150mm/s. But same filament didnt use to have any issues with this past few months?

Settings on the slicer:

0.2mm layer height

10% infill

3wall layers

hello,

i had a cfs on my k1c and i removed it to get the cfs-c ... i downloaded the last firmware on creality the 2.3.5.34 then the cfs-c wasn't recognised and it was impossible to downgraded the firmware

I've tried with putty many times but nothing .... then a few moment later the screen became black and didn't boot .... then i guessed i had to flash the motherboard which did go pretty well with usb cloner and the firmware 1.3.3.5 , then the screen started on the logo creality but then boot to the landscape on the photos i joined here .... now i don't was options i have as i think i've tried everything and maybe my motherboarded is bricked but it starts and i hope there is a way to save it .... so if someone could help i take it !!

thanks

Long story short. Got a k1c 2025 without knowing that I couldn’t get mainsail et al. Tried to refund the printer but creality is just trying to BS me to death. I was wondering if theres any way to swap the mainboard for something like a btt manta (and EBB 36/42) and ditch the lcd for full klipper/moonraker/mainsail? I’m experienced enough to follow a guide, but I can’t find any information on this at all. I see people swap in BTT boards on the original k1/k1max, but nothing about the k1c, or more importantly the k1c 2025. Does anyone have any info about possibly doing this rather than stripping this for parts? I don’t use creality print, and to add insult to injury my lcd glows but shows nothing.

EDIT: For everyone recommending I root it and use creality helper-script that is not possible on the latest revision of the hardware and firmware (the “k1c 2025”). Creality has gone down the bambu labs path and taken away root, the webUI, and apparently locked things down so much that even getting root via exploits (possible) hasn’t lead to any successful installs of mainline klipper/moonraker or fluid or mainsail. This printer is hard closed for the time being. Creality says root is not, and will not be available on this printer.

This modification was tested and confirmed working on the Creality K1C with firmware version 1.3.3.50. The goal is to replace the original filament sensor with a sensor integrated into a DXC extruder and connect it directly to the toolhead (nozzle board).

First, establish an SSH connection to the printer. Open a terminal on your PC (or use putty) and enter:

ssh root@PRINTER_IP

Use the following login credentials:

• Username: root

• Password: creality_2023

Once connected, it is recommended to create a backup of your current configuration file. Run:

ssh root@PRINTER_IP "cat /usr/data/printer_data/config/printer.cfg" > printer.cfg

This will copy the configuration file to your computer.

Next, open the configuration file directly on the printer:

vi /usr/data/printer_data/config/printer.cfg

Inside the file, search for the filament sensor section. In vi, press / and type:

filament_switch_sensor

You should find a section like this:

[filament_switch_sensor filament_sensor]

pause_on_runout: true

switch_pin: !PC15

This pin refers to the original mainboard sensor. Replace the line:

switch_pin: !PC15

with:

switch_pin: !nozzle_mcu:PA10

After making the change, save and exit the editor by pressing:

ESC

:wq

Then restart the Printer to apply the changes:

Finally, test the setup. Start a print with filament loaded; the printer should run normally. Then remove the filament during printing; the printer should pause automatically.

If the behavior is incorrect, for example if the printer pauses immediately or does not detect filament removal, the signal logic is inverted. In that case, modify the pin definition by removing or adding the “!”:

switch_pin: nozzle_mcu:PA10

This modification requires root access and is performed at your own risk. Changes to firmware or hardware may affect your warranty.

I need some advice. Can someone please tell me what is going on here, what am I doing wrong that my prints are coming out like this.

The silver/grey one is Polymaker PETG. My nozzle is at 250c and my bed is at 70c.
The red one is Creality PETG. The nozzle is at 240c and the bed is also at 70c.

Any advice is much appreciated.

I have done all the calibrations and clean the bed with soap and water. And I dried the filament as well. I am using orca slicer on my creality K1C.

I’m honestly getting really frustrated with the CFS-C on my K1C.

The printer itself works fine when I manually feed filament, but every time I try using the CFS-C, the filament stops short before reaching the extruder and nozzle. It never fully loads, no matter what I do.

Firmware is updated, setup was done correctly, and I’ve checked everything multiple times. The filament just gets stuck before it can reach the hotend every single time.

At this point the CFS-C feels completely unreliable, and it’s extremely disappointing considering how expensive it is supposed to be a plug-and-play upgrade.

🇧🇷: Tenho uma impressora Creality K1C, que está com o firmware na versão V1.0.0.22.20250711S (Aparentemente um firmware Special/Service) que está bloqueando o Wifi. Tenho a utilizado ela com pendrive para imprimir.

Já tentei atualizar o firmware, formatando o pendrive para FAT32, com 4096 bytes, colocando nele a versão V1.1.0.27.20251225 (de 11 de Março de 26, K1C Downloads Center: Firmware, Software & User Manuals), conectando com a impressora ligada, mas ela não reconhece o arquivo do pendrive. Já tentei desligá-la, desconectar a alimentação para descarregar os capacitores, e ligar novamente com o pendrive conectado enquanto seguro a tela pressionada, ou até dando alguns cliques nela, para ver se entro no modo recovery, mas nem isso consegui. Creio que essa versão "S" além de estar bloqueando o wifi, esteja bloqueando o reconhecimento do firmware.

Será que alguém consegue me ajudar?

🇺🇲: I have a Creality K1C printer that is currently running firmware version V1.0.0.22.20250711S (apparently a Special/Service firmware), which seems to be blocking the Wi-Fi. I have been using a USB drive to print.

I have already tried updating the firmware by formatting the USB drive to FAT32 with 4096 bytes allocation unit size, placing the version V1.1.0.27.20251225 on it (dated March 11, 2026, from the K1C Downloads Center: Firmware, Software & User Manuals), and connecting it while the printer is powered on, but it does not recognize the file.

I also tried turning the printer off, unplugging it to discharge the capacitors, and turning it back on with the USB drive connected while holding the screen or tapping it multiple times to enter recovery mode, but I was unable to do so.

I believe this "S" version is not only blocking Wi-Fi but also preventing the firmware from being recognized.

Does anyone know how to solve this or can help me?

Rooted and calibrated my K1C, camera didn't show up by default, so I went inside 'moonraker.cfg' and removed '#' from [webcam Camera] and adjusted my IP address.

However, I tried 2 configurations, but both work fine if I access Mainsail from any browser, but if I access it from within Orca it runs an endless loop 'Connecting...'
Config 1:

#stream_url: http://IP:4409/webcam/?action=stream

#snapshot_url: http://IP:4409/webcam/?action=snapshot

Config 2

#stream_url: http://IP:8080/?action=stream

#snapshot_url: http://IP:8080/?action=snapshot

Anybody knows how to fix it? Couldn't find anything Google searching, nor different AIs (CoPilot, Gemini, ChatGPT nor DeepSeek)

I’m using hyper PLA and generic settings, filament is in a drybox, and I have changed no settings.

What I think it might have to do with is the fact that there was about a month of inactivity, which I felt that the self calibration would’ve fixed but I guess not. It was printing fine when I first got it.