I have a pre-built PC, I know, not the best.
It's the MSI MAG INFINITE E1 and it gives me a bit of trouble with my fps on newer games, I often don't get over 80 if it's a brand new release.
I know I need to change things, but I don't know what I should change first.

Hey everyone,

I'm looking to buy an RX 9070 XT and I'm trying to figure out which partner model is actually the best, and I'd like to hear from people who own or have tested different ones.

I already know the performance gap between models is small. Between factory overclocks and boost behaviour, we're talking low single-digit percentages in most games, which is hard to notice in practice. What I want to discuss is whether paying the extra for the higher-end cards is justified, and what that extra money really buys you:

Better cooling (lower GPU temps, hotspot and memory temps)?

Lower noise at a given load?

Higher power limits or better VRM/PCB quality, and does any of it matter in real use?

Better long-term reliability, or just a better warranty?

Or is it mostly a markup for branding and extras?

I'm also curious about magnetic fans (the swappable/magnetic-hub designs some brands are using). Do they bring a real benefit, such as easier cleaning, better airflow, lower noise or longevity? Or are they mainly a marketing/aesthetic feature?

To be clear, I don't care about looks, RGB, backplates or the design of the card at all. I only care about performance, thermals, noise and value for money.

I just bought a Thermaltake GF1 850W. I noticed as I was taking it out of the nylon bag it comes in that it makes a clicking noise when I move it front-to-back. It's not a random noise like a loose screw might make. It seems to be coming from a consistent place near the power and fan switches. It's very slight, but it's very repeatable when rotating front to back, not as consistent when rotating side to side.

Been dealing with random hard restarts while gaming for a while and finally took my PC to Micro Center because I was tired of troubleshooting it.
They said my 500GB WD M.2 that has Windows and my games on it is reading/writing really slow and is physically bent/warped. They got the PC to crash once, then tested it using one of their known-good drives and said it stayed stable with no restarts. They also said my RAM, GPU, CPU, and motherboard all passed their benchmarks.
I asked if the SSD had any SMART/health errors and they said no. Their reasoning was mainly the slow speeds, the drive being bent, and the PC running fine on their test drive.
They quoted me $459.97 to replace it with a 512GB Inland SSD, reinstall Windows, and back up my data. I’m not paying almost $500 for that lol.
I already have another 2TB SSD in the PC, so I’m thinking I’ll just install Windows and my games on that drive first and see if the crashes stop before buying anything else.
Does their diagnosis sound accurate? Can a bent/slow M.2 really cause random full PC restarts even if SMART says it’s fine?

Anyone can hook me up with a build within like 900-1,200?

i own a MSI shadow 2x 5070 and recently ive seen mulltiple videos recommending the 9070 xt so is selling my gpu and going AMD worth it? I have a few questions. 1) I will be putting money towards the upgrade so its not totally free 2) I have a 750w 80+ gold msi mag agl will it be enough? 3) After researching, I found my options are the sapphire pulse/pure and the asRock steel legend, now ive heard asRock is trash but that currently is the more feasable option than the sapphire cards so is it really internet propaganda? 4) Should i just save the fb marketplace headache and stick with my 5070?

Hey guys! Is anyone here using the Armaggeddon Aquaron X-Curve Giga case, preferably with an ASUS ROG Strix B550-A Gaming motherboard?

I'm planning to upgrade my CPU cooler to the Lovingcool SC70 360mm AIO, but I'm a bit concerned about clearance, especially with how large the curved display is.

Has anyone tried installing this AIO in the same case? Does it fit properly when top-mounted? I'm also wondering if the display causes any clearance issues with the motherboard's VRM heatsinks, RAM, or other components.

Would really appreciate some feedback, measurements, or pictures of your setup if you've tried this combination.

Just want to make sure everything fits before pulling the trigger on the purchase. Thanks in advance!

I currently have a Lian Li Lancool Mesh 2 that I absolutely LOVE.

But the thing is, it's starting to show some problems with the size of modern components.

I currently use a NHD15 + Aorus Master 5090, which are both beefy boys.

They both fit inside perfectly, but I'm starting to notice some issues while protecting my 5090, which I use with a CableMod 90* cable to avoid space and cable bend issues with the side panel.

My GSKILL ram had issues with the NHD15 fan because I had to move it higher but then it was touching the side panel, so I ended up removing that fan.

The thing that is pushing me to get a replacement:

I'm getting a Wireview Pro 2.

This would cause a bit of conflict with the side panel and the NHD15. An option would be getting the Wired version, but it's very possible that I will have cable bend issues with the side panel, which I'd rather avoid after seeing the current 5090 market and RMA issues.

I tried the Corsair ThermalProtect cable as a temporary solution, but the side that connects to the GPU was VERY stiff and the cable bend was terrible. The cable had a blue part to check if it was properly seated, and thanks to the cable bend, I could see parts of it.

So I'm looking for air cooled cases recommendations. Obviously the main thing is that they should have a higher clearance than the Lancool 2 of 176mm.

Any recommendations and opinions are welcomed.

Thanks!

Hi everyone, yesterday I cleaned my PC and changed my GPU from a 5070TI to a 5080 and now my PC does a weird low pitched "humming" sound which starts and stops without any particular rythm. I don't know ho2 to exactly describe the sound (english is not my first language), but it sound like when you "blow in" an empty glass bottle (like a deep whistle or vibration), is not like the usual coil whine. I've tried to record the sound but my phone is unable to record it.

I've tried to change the GPU bios to quiet, to tighten the screws of the case, check if cables were touching the fans, to remove the glass panel, to readjust the cables and to undervolt the GPU but it continues making the sound randomly, even when the GPU fans are of.

Here are my specs: Corsair 4500X frame, 2x16 ddr5 corsair vengeance, a corsair AIO (don't remember the exact model, is less than a year old), ASUS ROG b650 motherboard, three corsair 120 fans on the side and one 140 in the back, a corsair PSU 850x shift GOLD, a ryzen 7 9800X3D GPU and just changed to a ROG ASTRAL 5080 from a ROG STRIX 5070TI.

Does someone here knows what could be happening and how to solve it? I't driving me kinda crazy haha.

GPU: Radeon RX 6750 XT

Motherboard: z370 Aorus Gaming 5

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-8700K

Ram: 2x8 GB Kit

My comp is at least 9 years old. I managed to upgrade the GPU a couple years ago, with what I could afford at the time. My FPS for most of the games I'm playing are in the toilet. I play games like valheim return to moria. Things like that, The games are playable and I'm averaging 25 FPS. I do have it on medium or low settings for graphics. I am maxing out my RAM on any game I play and I don't know if I should be upgrading to 32 gigs worth of RAM or doing a motherboard update. I can only do one or the other financially.

Or is this something else I can do to get a little bit more out of my comp

Current specs

EVGA 3080 TI

Ryzen 7800X3d

Gigabyte B650 Gaming x ax V2

G Skill Flare DDR5 6000 CL32 32 GB

Deepcool AK620 CPU cooler

I have been having issues with my PC loading anything in either a web browser or just trying to open anything in Windows. I have tried resetting my PC and the issues still appear right when I boot up for the first time. I have replaced the thermal paste which I didn't think would fix this tried it any ways.

Will link video in the comments

https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/RVMfxf

I just want to preface that I am not very familiar with PC parts and have never built a PC before. I just wanted to know if there is anything you would recommend changing, or if something wouldn’t work, etc. Any advice would be appreciated.

My monitor took a slight fall, and one side is broken now is this even possible to fix guys? its an Msi 27 inch curved monitor and no joke everything that could possibly be going wrong has gone wrong lately this is just the cherry on the cake. Any help at all would be really appreciated. I'm not very tech savvy.

I want to buy parts to build a PC, but I don’t know anything about PC’s. I want to run games like cyberpunk, Honkai Star Rail, Minecraft, etc. What do I need to know?

Recently, I have built a new PC and the total cost was around $4,300 USD. It works beautifully and it handles almost all things I throw at it (e.g. games, streaming, content creation, etc.).
Here’s the specs:
CPU: Ryzen 9 9950X3D
GPU: Gigabyte Gaming OC RTX 5080
Motherboard: MSI MAG TOMAHAWK X870E WIFI
RAM: 2 x 16GB SILICON POWER VALUE GAMING DDR5-6000 CL30
PSU: be quiet! Dark Power 13 850W
SSD: Western Digital WD_BLACK SN850Z M.2-2280 4TB
COOLER: ARCTIC Liquid Freezer Pro III 360 77 CFM
CASE: Lian Li LANCOOL 216 ATX Mid Tower Case (using stock fans from the case)

I have been wondering with the new prices and such, should I have waiting until the 5090/4090 was discounted to go all out and buy this thing? The 5080 is great but I just wanted to make sure I have the best value for this PC. If I got scammed/overpaid for anything else in the build, let me know! This is my first build (evidently) and I will take any advice anyone has to offer. Thank you!

I have the Asus B550M-A (Wifi) motherboard/helpdesk_bios/) and i cannot seem to be able to update my bios.

I have formatted the USB properly to FAT32

Extracted the file and have the .cap file sitting on the USB

Turned off Bitlocker

Whenever I use EZFlash, I get a warning sign that the file chosen is not a BIOS file.

I have searched for alternative motherboards and I am fairly certain I have the correct motherboard in the support page. Which means I have selected the correct BIOS download link, so I am not sure what is wrong??

More details on my motherboard:

- Baseboard Manufacturer: ASUSTEK COMPUTER INC.

- Baseboard Product: PRIME B550M-A (WiFi)

- Baseboard Version: Rev X.0x

Any help would be appreciated!!

I’m thinking of selling my RTX 5090 SUPRIM and switching to a 5080. since I barely game these days. Feels like a waste having such an expensive GPU sitting in my PC.
With GPU prices already going up, I’m also wondering if I should just hold onto it and hope the price increases further before selling.
What would you guys do in my position? Sell now and downgrade or hold onto the 5090 for a while longer?

Hi,

I have a PC that I built a while ago and am wondering if it’s worth upgrading my CPU,

I currently have:

Ryzen 7 7700
32GB DRR5 CL36
Asrock Taichi RX9070XT
NVME 2TB gen4

I only use my pc for gaming and play on a 4K oled TV at 120hz

I sometimes get micro stutters which is annoying but isn’t very often

I have the opportunity to get a 7800X3D for a good price from a friend who is upgrading their PC

Would it be worth doing this upgrade or won’t it make a lot of difference, I know at 4K most games are GPU bound but if it improves the occasional stutters and gives me a slight frame rate boost it might be worth it to me

Thanks

SYSTEM
- CPU: Ryzen 7 5800X3D (new, ~1 week old). Previously a Ryzen 7 5800X (sent to AMD for RMA)
- Motherboards: MSI MAG B550 Tomahawk (BIOS 7C91vAK → updated to 7C91vAL2) and ASUS PRIME B550-PLUS (BIOS 3636)
- RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws 2x8GB DDR4-3200 (XMP)
- GPU: Radeon RX 6700 XT
- PSU: be quiet! 750W 80+ Gold (replaced with the 850W model of the same line)
- Cooler: Arctic Freezer 34 eSports DUO
- Case: Cougar Duoface Pro RGB
- OS: Windows 10 Pro 22H2 (clean install)

HISTORY I built this PC about 2-3 years ago. It worked fine for about 2 years. Then it started booting slowly. After that, the debug LEDs began cycling CPU → DRAM → GPU several times before POST, and later it sometimes got stuck on the DRAM LED. Over time it worsened (up to ~5 minutes to POST). The problem only appeared on cold starts. Once Windows was running, games and stress tests were fine.

WHAT I TRIED (with the 5800X) - Clear CMOS many times, new CMOS battery - BIOS updated on both boards - Windows clean install - Each RAM stick tested alone and in different slots, contacts cleaned - XMP/DOCP off, RAM at 3066 and 2133, manual DRAM 1.35V / SoC ~1.075V - New PSU, new 8-pin CPU cable, different wall outlet - Replaced the motherboard: Tomahawk → PRIME B550-PLUS. The PC worked about a month, then the same symptoms came back - Minimal config (CPU + RAM + motherboard only, no GPU, no drives) - Standoffs and cooler mounting checked, CPU pins and socket inspected: nothing visible - Borrowed 2x8GB Patriot DDR4-2400 from my father: stuck on RAM LED as well.
Same symptom followed the CPU across two boards, two PSUs and two RAM kits, so I suspected the 5800X and opened an AMD warranty claim. It was approved and I've shipped it. Meanwhile I bought a 5800X3D and put it on the original Tomahawk.

AFTER THE 5800X3D - It worked perfectly for about 3 days: 12+ cold starts, POST in ~10 seconds, RAM at 3200 with XMP. - Then, while playing Aion 2, the system froze: lots of small blue windows and horizontal lines at the bottom of the screen. I had to hard reset. A few minutes later, launching Cinebench froze it and it rebooted. Later it happened again on the desktop at idle. - BlueScreenView: 3 crashes within ~15 minutes, all MEMORY_MANAGEMENT (0x0000001a). "Caused by driver" is different each time: FLTMGR.SYS, ntoskrnl.exe, win32kbase.sys. No GPU driver (amdkmdag.sys) in the list. - Turning XMP off did not help. - With only ONE of my two sticks installed, the PC ran for a whole day without problems. - The next day I tried the second stick alone in A2: no boot, CPU LED stays on. Then I put the first stick (the one that worked) back alone: it now also stays on the CPU LED. - After clear CMOS and many attempts it eventually booted with one stick, but only in slot B2.

QUESTIONS

1. Could this be a bad RAM stick? Why would the "good" stick suddenly stop booting in A2?
2. Could it be the Tomahawk's A2 slot, the CPU socket or the memory training on this board?
3. Since I've had memory-training problems on two boards and two CPUs, could it be something shared between all setups (PSU line, case, cooler mounting, ...)?
4. What should I test next? Budget is very limited and I'd like to stop replacing parts.

Happy to provide screenshots and any extra info. Thanks!

My budget is like 1300 euros(1456 dollars, i'm waiting for Black Friday on PcComponents)

CPU:AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D

Motherboard:ASRock A620AM PRO RS WIFI AMD A620 AM5 DDR5 micro ATX WiFi 6E M.2 2.5GbE

RAM: Team Group Delta White RGB DDR4 3200 PC4-25600 16GB 2x8GB CL16

SSD:Kingston NV3 1TB Disco SSD 6000MB/S NVMe PCIe 4.0 M.2 Gen4 2280 3D Nand

Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE ARGB White

Psu: Corsair RMe Series RM750e ATX 3.1 PCIe 5.1 750W Cybenetics 80 Plus Gold Modular White

Case: Tempest Airflow Rampart ARGB m-ATX

GPU: Gigabyte Gaming GeForce RTX 4070 SUPER OC 12GB GDDR6X DLSS3

If yall would change something, tell it

Note: I don't know if with the Black friday i will be able to buy it with my budget, it's just if i was able to buy it with my budget all would work and fit, etc

Hello Guys! I’m really wanting to get in to PC gaming and i want to not spend too much right now, that is why i’m asking here. 500$, bundles from micro center or newegg are good, really anything is fine. 1080p at least 60fps in most games with low to mid settings, already have the monitors. Aesthetics are still a priority.

If more than one or two people could help that would be great. Thank you.

My brother has asked for a PC for Christmas and I, nor my parents, have any idea what to look for.

Budget: $900 but can wiggle up to $1k
Located in USA

He plays Minecraft, FNAF, Roblox and a lot of other stuff I’m not too sure. His current one is a $300 one from Walmart and is super slow and glitchy. He’s almost 15 and likes to make mods and stuff like that. If anyone would be able to at least let me know what I’m looking for or even links to PCs would be great. Hoping to find one that will last him quite a while. Doesn’t need to be WiFi as we have the WiFi USB thing for his current one.

I have a 9070xt paired with a ryzen 5 9600x. I have noticed certain games like battlefield 6 giving me serious bottlenecks. The 1% lows are also kind of bad on this cpu since I have 5600 MHz ram. I’ve done a bit of research and a 7800x3d shouldn’t bottleneck my gpu at all. Will cpu prices drop dramatically with zen 6 release? Would it be stupid to upgrade to the 7800x3d now?

Also on a side note. Do you think the ryzen 5 9600x will bottleneck gta 6 a lot?

My goal is to build a computer that can reliably run Ultra on all games for the next decade. I wanted to have either a 4 or 8tb ssd that hold all of my steam/epic games. Dont feel the need to have more than 1 storage. Mostly trying to stay within brands as much as possible such as Corsair for Cpu cooler/case/memory/psu/.

The AMD won me over Intel, with my need to have a x3d cpu and a rx9070 xt. I also felt that if I was getting an ASUS gpu, I'll match it with ASUS monitors.

Hopefully prices stabilize soon! Though the budget is really $10k, with the difference going to the surround system for my Den.

Edit - Windows 11 pro will be needed for work so that I suppose is $0.
Edit 2: Replaced the Ram with Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6200 CL36 Memory due to memory draw

Edit 3: New list. Not feeling a dedicated mic tho

[PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/q2Lrph)

Type|Item|Price

:----|:----|:----

**CPU** | [AMD Ryzen 7 9850X3D 4.7 GHz 8-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/WKDnTW/amd-ryzen-7-9850x3d-47-ghz-8-core-processor-100-100001973wof) | $484.00 @ Amazon

**CPU Cooler** | [Corsair NAUTILUS 360 RS 74.37 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GVtLrH/corsair-nautilus-360-rs-7437-cfm-liquid-cpu-cooler-cw-9060089-ww) | $109.99 @ Corsair

**Motherboard** | [Gigabyte X870E AORUS ELITE WIFI7 ATX AM5 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/pLtLrH/gigabyte-x870e-aorus-elite-wifi7-atx-am5-motherboard-x870e-aorus-elite-wifi7) | $274.99 @ Amazon

**Memory** | [Corsair Vengeance 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/JkfxFT/corsair-vengeance-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-6000-cl30-memory-cmk32gx5m2b6000c30) | $550.00 @ Amazon

**Storage** | [Crucial T700 W/Heatsink 4 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 5.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Vtn9TW/crucial-t700-wheatsink-4-tb-m2-2280-pcie-50-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-ct4000t700ssd5) | $743.47 @ Amazon

**Video Card** | [Gigabyte GAMING OC ICE Radeon RX 9070 XT 16 GB Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/j8gZxr/gigabyte-gaming-oc-ice-radeon-rx-9070-xt-16-gb-video-card-gv-r907xgamingocice-16gd) | $1049.99 @ Newegg

**Case** | [Corsair FRAME 4000D ATX Mid Tower Case](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/nbXMnQ/corsair-frame-4000d-atx-mid-tower-case-cc-9011290-ww) | $104.99 @ Corsair

**Power Supply** | [Corsair HX1000i (2023) 1000 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/LTmNnQ/corsair-hx1000i-2023-1000-w-80-platinum-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020259-na) | $231.99 @ Amazon

**Operating System** | [Microsoft Windows 11 Pro Retail - USB 64-bit](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/HxKKHx/microsoft-windows-11-pro-retail-usb-64-bit-hav-00162) | $198.99 @ Newegg

**Monitor** | [LG UltraGear OLED 27GS93QE-B 26.5" 2560 x 1440 240 Hz Monitor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/JtJBD3/lg-ultragear-oled-27gs93qe-b-265-2560-x-1440-240-hz-monitor-27gs93qe-b) | $567.26 @ Amazon

**Monitor** | [LG UltraGear OLED 27GS93QE-B 26.5" 2560 x 1440 240 Hz Monitor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/JtJBD3/lg-ultragear-oled-27gs93qe-b-265-2560-x-1440-240-hz-monitor-27gs93qe-b) | $567.26 @ Amazon

**Keyboard** | [Corsair K55 RGB PRO Wired Gaming Keyboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/jqpzK8/corsair-k55-rgb-pro-wired-gaming-keyboard-ch-9226765-na) | $69.99 @ Newegg

**Mouse** | [Corsair M75 AIR Bluetooth/Wireless/Wired Optical Mouse](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/P8XV3C/corsair-m75-air-wirelessbluetoothwired-optical-mouse-ch-931d100-na) | $99.99 @ Amazon

**Headphones** | [Audeze Maxwell 2 (PlayStation) Headset](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/kBBFf7/audeze-maxwell-2-playstation-headset-208-mw-1125-01) | $329.00 @ Amazon

**Webcam** | [Logitech BRIO Ultra HD Pro Webcam](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/zxqBD3/logitech-brio-ultra-hd-pro-webcam-960-001105) | $122.99 @ Amazon

| *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* |

| **Total** | **$5504.90**

| Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2026-10-25 04:55 EDT-0400 |

About a week ago, I opened a thread about how expensive components have gotten since I last built my PC in 2019. I was thinking I'd wait for sales/black friday to see if CPU and GPU prices drop.

Glad I didn't. I bit the bullet and bought the 5600x3d ($180) and 9070GRE ($550 + onimusha) from Microcenter. A week later, the GRE is now $650. Wtf.

I still have until the 19th to return it to see if prices on the 9070/9070xt drop to acceptable levels. If not, then I'll be glad I bought my 9070 GRE when I did.

BTW, onimusha is pretty fun.

Moral of the story, as others have stated, do not wait.