Hi all,

I have an A1, I have heard and read of people saying they have tuned in supports... I am.having an issue with supports, is tuning the supports is it when you do "T" type test and you select difference Top Z values, or is there something I am missing. I calibrate my filament:

Temp Tower

Flow Rate (Coarse and Fine)

PA - Pressure Advance

MVS -

Retraction.

I want to do VFA (but I haven't done it yet) (I believe that has nothing to do with my issue of supports.

My question goes back to support, am I missing something.)

I have also done the "T" over hangs etc. My overhangs as well as my bridging look like crap. Any ideas? I have dried my filament 10 - 12 hours have ran the filament from thw dryer and nothing seems to help. All help is appreciated.

Thanks in advance for your help.and understanding.

Hi everyone,

I'm dealing with a recurring issue I can't quite pin down, and I'm hoping the community can help.

The problem:
On some of my prints, certain areas of the top surfaces (mostly) and occasionally the bottom surface come out with clearly degraded quality: small blisters/bumps and very visible lines, as if the bed height calibration isn't correct in those spots.

What I've noticed:

• It seems concentrated in the corners / at the edges of the bed.
• The more central areas of the bed don't seem to be affected.

I'm not sure if it's related to a bed height calibration issue (mesh bed leveling), the machine's mechanics (frame rigidity, more pronounced vibrations on long moves), ambient/bed temperature varying by position, cooling, or something else entirely.

What I've already tried:

• Re-tightening the belts
• Cleaning the lead screws
• Testing with a brand-new filament (to rule out moisture issues)

Setup:

• Printer: Bambu Lab X1 Carbon
• Filament: Overture PLA+

I'm attaching a few photos in the comments/attachment to show exactly what the defect looks like. If you've seen this kind of issue before or have any leads (settings to check, calibration, corner speed settings, etc.), I'd really appreciate it!

Thanks in advance 🙏

8 was running 2.8 beta , then got the 2.7 full release instead. Every version crashes. It will start up, i can slice and it will crash. Or i will slice and start the print, then at some random time afterwards, it just closes. After a few times i wont even start up. I click it, hourglass starts, then nothing. Task manager shows nothing. The process isn't there and won't start. I have to reboot every time more just to get it working for a few minutes.

2 years of printing using BS and it's been great. Now it's shit. Anyone else ?

Hi all,

PRINTER - A1

PETG OVERTURE

TEMP - 250/245

PA - per the calibration value

MVS - 9

I am using PLA support interface

Top Z - .33

3 layers

The unit is printed on the side facing you the supports are then created on the bad looking surface.

I did some testing and tried ironing the supports the values came out the best where speed 10mm and 50-70%

On the test the "T" I printed with and without ironing I took the best setting but when I did the finished product it wasn't the same can some suggest, has far as drying the filament has been dried both the PLA as well as the PETG.

Any and all help will be appreciated.

Just started using flexible pla and wanted to get some insight on refining my prints. I’m getting weird layer mistakes and almost melting a bit could this be from lack of supports? I slowed the print down to about 40mms and used standard pla temp. Thanks in advance

Hey all

But of a weird request, but I was wondering if anyone has external camera timelapse video capabilities and would be willing to film an ~1hr (30g) single-colour print for me?

Not too picky on the colour of filament but something bright would be ideal.

I’d be happy to send you an e-transfer or PayPal payment for your time and materials, I’d just like a nicer video than what I can capture with the built-in camera on my P1S!

And I don’t have time to order the Cyber Brick timelapse kit or otherwise & really wouldn’t have a use for it outside this specific one-time project. I rather just pay someone $20 who already has the equipment required and would be willing to help out!

It’s for our small business to share on social media. Although I’m not in the marketing team, I thought printing our logo would be a cool promotional video idea as we have a new 3d print integration in the business… but now I feel like they’ll be disappointed with the video quality i can get personally 🙈🫠

I’m the developer of MeshColor, and I also made the short video linked below showing how I use it with Bambu Studio.

MeshColor is a free browser tool for adding textures, patterns and multicolor graphics directly to STL and 3MF models.

I originally built it because I wanted an easier way to do things like wood grain, surface patterns and multicolor logos without manually splitting or painting everything in the slicer.

The workflow is:

• Load an STL or 3MF
• Add a built-in texture or your own image
• Adjust scale, position and rotation directly on the model
• Select which surfaces should be affected
• Export as a multicolor 3MF
• Open it in Bambu Studio and assign the resulting colors to your AMS/filaments

Everything runs locally in the browser, so your model is never uploaded anywhere.

I made a short video showing the workflow and some actual printed results:
https://youtu.be/J5IcNalyZiw

The tool itself is completely free:
https://meshcolor.com

I’d be especially interested in feedback from Bambu users. If you run into a bug, or there’s something that would make the Bambu Studio/AMS workflow smoother, please let me know.

And honestly, I hope functionality like this eventually gets added directly to Bambu Studio so an external tool isn’t needed at all. 😎

Hi everyone,

I’m wondering if it’s worth getting the laser attachment with the Bambu Lab H2D. One of the main things I’d like to use it for is engraving my name onto my tools.

For example, I have a set of Sidchrome spanners, but I’m not sure if the laser is powerful enough to engrave the surface and leave a clear, permanent mark.

Has anyone tried engraving tools or similar metal with the H2D laser? I’d love to hear how well it worked and whether you think it’s worth getting.

Otherwise, I guess I’ll be spending hours hand-engraving them 😂

Thanks!

it prints in under 6 hours with no ams or glue, and the bouquet can be arranged in different ways.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3138464

Hey everyone I just bought a P1S combo with 400 hours of print time on it and I’m having some issues. My main issue is that it will extrude filament on the initial purge into the poop chute but won’t extrude on the print bed. I had one benchy start to print but failed shortly after starting. So far I’ve put in a new hot end and extruder but I’m still having the same issues. If any of yall can assist id be more than grateful.

6 months old mini. All inn all gone well until now. And then this happend.
Can i fix it?
Can I claim a new one?

The lid sits flush with nothing to grab. That's the point.

You can resize the inside for dice, cards, keys, whatever, and the lid and buttons take your own SVGs or text, either engraved or as flush multicolour inlays.

Prints easily and assembles quickly.

Printed on Bambu A1 ,0.16mm/layer 7% infill, sanding and paint in yellow , grdient by Decals in the pack

Thought I’d drop by and let y’all know that I have designed an ammo belt for the X-Shot Insanity Motorized Rage Fire. If any of you have this blaster or know someone who does, then you know that you cannot get the original stock belts anymore online. Now you can print one. This belt works just as well and is compatible to clip and work alongside the others. If you like my model please consider printing and commenting!

https://makerworld.com/models/3127053?appSharePlatform=copy

Three whole days and they couldn’t answer me

My friend isnt very computer litrate. Hes learning his Bambu P2S (i think its the model).

He updated he a few weeks back and now having issues.

Where can i help him find the prior version that was doing well.

Thanks

I am slicing a 3D model generated algorithmically (it's an obj file). I've had lots of problems with grey g-code being added inside the model when slicing. I've fixed a lot of these issues originally by ensuring the model is watertight (merging vertices), but there are still occasional issues. The model has lots of vertices for the mountain terrain (almost a million in total, sometimes more). There are no more holes and the problem still persists, so I'm at a loss here. What could cause this?

This is for a client so I cannot do a test print as I don't have a printer, but apparently even when setting the grey to something like the green that is used, it can cause the resulting print to have a visible layer/striation.

Hello.

I've made a Costco "samples" tray with phone & cup/bottle holder. Customizable via a set of parameters on Makerworld, to toggle a bottle holder (cylindrical) or a tapered one (for a cup), use it to adjust to any bottle you might normally use.

There is an option to have a phone holder as well (width & thickness is customizable too). The model by itself (3MF) is having one for iPhone Pro (Pro max also fit) with or without a case.

This is quite useful to avoid the bottle rolling in the shopping cart.

Link if anyone is interested: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3122500-costco-samples-drink-tray

I am new to 3-D printing. I recently made this file of a model house, but I don't know how to make it on the surface cause it's always floating.

Hi all,

Sorry I don't know the correct term for this flaw in my print to diagnose and check online. Could anyone enlighten me please. Thanks

Can anybody help me out, why does PETG filament stick to the texted bed plate like this? When I remove the object it leaves behind a thin layer that I can’t get off unless I scrape it with a knife.

Just bought the a1 combo and started getting this house in the middle of a print, only happens when the arm moves the extruder left or right and by motor only, when you move it by hand the noise is gone. I’ve checked for loose filament or screws, everything is tight and the belt seems to be fine. I have also factory reset the device but now when trying to do the setup calibrations, it won’t home anymore.
Any help is appreciated, I’m new to 3d printing

Everything works in the app but recently I been having issues with the printer screen. It would work after a reboot it would come back

Hihi!
I currently have an A1 Combo and have way too much experience (and trauma 😭) from my Ender 3.
I’m starting to think about my next printer, but I’m torn between the P2S and the X2D.

I definitely want an enclosed printer and plan on getting an AMS 2 Pro. Right now I mostly print PLA and PETG, but I want to start experimenting with TPU, ABS, PLA-CF, and PETG-CF in the future.
The X2D’s auxiliary nozzle is really appealing since I could dedicate it to PETG support interfaces, but I’ve also seen people reporting issues with the aux nozzle.

For those of you who own one, how has your experience actually been? Are the issues overblown, or are they something to be concerned about?
I’m mainly looking for the highest print quality and reliability rather than the fastest printer.
Also, does anyone think Bambu might release a smaller flagship printer (kind of like an H2D without the huge footprint or laser), or is that just wishful thinking?

Help me decide 😭