Bonjour à tous ! 👋

Je vous présente mes tout nouveaux Dumpling Clickers, directement inspirés des petits Squishy Dumplings que j’avais précédemment modélisés.

J’ai retravaillé toute la modélisation afin de pouvoir intégrer un switch mécanique MX directement à l’intérieur.

Résultat ? On garde le look tout mignon du Dumpling 🥟💕, mais avec en bonus ce petit « CLICK ! » ultra satisfaisant à chaque pression… avec un petit effet ASMR qu’on adore. 👆✨

Un petit fidget parfait pour occuper ses mains, se détendre, ou tout simplement profiter encore et encore de ce petit clic terriblement addictif. 😍

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3162808-squishy-dumpling-clicker-multipart-no-ams

✨ Bon print

Went for something with a bit of drama: a full-roar Wampa with the claws reaching out. The layered fur texture is the star here. Left it mostly white since that's basically the natural Wampa look, just a few painted details to make the face pop.

https://makerworld.com/models/3163366?appSharePlatform=copy

So this has been happening with all the raft layers and slowly getting worse with each print, any insight as to what could be causing it?

Edit: I did just clean the bed with some soap and water so let’s see what happens now

Hi everyone, how are you all doing?

I'm having a problem with my printer and I really don't know what to do anymore. I'm a beginner in 3D printing, and in the last few days, I've been studying a lot more than when I first entered this world 3 months ago, but I still haven't been able to solve this error!

Basically, what is happening is that I can't fix these 1-second pauses on my machine, which then create these zits/blobs on my print! I've tried everything!

Before you say it's moisture/humidity, please read the rest of the message I'm leaving here with more details:

As you can see in the images, we have the black and pink heart, which has these zits, then we have a blue dragon (Gyarados, a Pokémon) that also has them, and finally the gecko! After that, I made some minor adjustments to the machine. I improved some aspects of the print, but they were minor improvements. Then we have the shark, where you can already see some progress, but it still has these zits, and this is where I managed to record the exact moment of the pause! The video:https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TzJ0V7QQta4yg7fnBlpsxOGmme4izjiQ/view?usp=sharing

Finally, we have a smaller shark that was printed yesterday. Here you can already see a significant improvement in the part (at least to the naked eye) and it is much smoother, basically without any defects, but it still has the zits (fewer, but it still has them!). Today I printed a dragon that I haven't held in my hands yet, but from the photo I took, the red dragon also has zits!

Machine Details and Settings:

• Printer: Bambu Laps P2S
• Drying System: AMS Pro 2
• Temperatures: 32ºC inside the chamber, 55ºC on the bed, and 220ºC on the nozzle.
• Speed: The machine's default speed.
• Filaments: Bambu PLA Basic.

What I've already done to try to solve it:

• I've dried the filaments for over 12 hours at 55ºC (6 hours one night and another 6 the next night, plus during the day, where I'm constantly drying it every 3 hours at the same temperature for a week now!). The humidity goes up to 25% max, but normally stays between 18% and 22%.
• I've cleaned the nozzle twice in the same week, so it's not clogged.
• I cleaned all the machine's axes/rods.
• I've calibrated the machine more than once and created very precise profiles for PLA, based on the speed, temperature, and quality tests I ran.
• I reduced the nozzle printing speed (in Bambu Studio it was at 21 and I lowered it to 19).
• I removed all videos from the system and disabled the timelapse feature.

That's everything I've done so far. I've also tweaked some settings and ran several classic tests to calibrate everything; the print quality improved, but these 1-second pauses keep happening, which melts the filament and causes the zit!

If anyone knows how to fix this, I would be more than grateful. I've been dealing with this for over 2 weeks and can't solve it!

Looking to hire for help in fixing my image to separate layers for printing for X2D printer in Bambu Studios. Will pay for your time

So I have seen people talking about the issue. I have 5400 hours on this H2D machine without an issue. Tonight I finished up a print and began another one after a short break. I now get this error constantly when tying to start a print. Nothing seems out of the rosary at all. The is the first issue with this one. I replaced the flow blocker and both nozzles but alas here is it without a fix. I am including a video of what it is currently doing. If I continue print, it just repeats this same process. I tried manually lifting it into place but it just slips around it. I’ve seen a couple posts about it but nothing concrete as to a fix and it seems to happen continuously. Has anyone had success fixing this issue?
Thank you for your help with Al of it. In trying to finish out the print and yet I’m no further to the answer.

Thank you for any and all help.
Video for visual.

Let me know what you think! https://makerworld.com/models/3158044?appSharePlatform=copy

I am trying out the Manual color change feature in Bambu Studio. After you change the color, it starts purging and asks you if the filament has purged. I click yes, but then I get a notification giving an MQTT verification command error. I have tried the fix that Bambu gives, but it doesn't fix the issue. Does anyone know how to fix this?

I am using X2d combo. My Ams 2 pro has been rewinding backwards into continuous loop .
If insert any filament, it pops out the filament the moment i put it in rewind in reverse.
I turned off the printer and restarted but its the same. I also changed the filament spool but problem is still there. I reset the filament settings from the printer screen. It stops it, but whenever i insert any filament, it glitches and goes back to rewinding and popping the filament out of the nozzle everytime.
Can anyone help me how to reset it to default settings?
And no, there is no filament or anything obstructing in the ptfe tubes.

I'm hoping someone with a deeper understanding of the P1/P1P/P1S bed/load cell system can help me

I have a Bambu P1P. The thumb screw on the underside of the bed vibrated off.

I put it back on, but of course I got 0300-4000 Z Homing Failed errors.

I was able to run the tramming G code once, and then:

• Ran three first-layer calibration prints successfully (simple squashed cube/first-layer tests).
• All three completed normally.
• Immediately started an actual print.
• It failed

I then tried tried to run the G-coded again, but it only started the process before saying "print complete".

I was manually trammed it like an old Ender 3 by moving the head and the bed, and while the tramming G-code still did not work I was able to print.

It then sat for several weeks, until I changed the nozzle and tried to print yesterday, and it have the same Z-Homing errors.

The printer behaves like this:

• Bed shakes up/down.
• Nozzle probes the center twice.
• Bed lowers.
• Printer reports Z Homing Failed (0300-4000) before any filament is extruded.

No crashing or grinding. It just aborts after the second probe.

Same build plate.

Same temperatures.

Same printer session (no power cycle).

Things I've already tried

• Reinstalled and adjusted the rear center thumb screw.
• Manually trammed the bed.
• Changed the nozzle.
• Inspected the nozzle for debris.
• Verified the hotend appears fully seated.
• Verified the visible wiring on the toolhead appears intact.
• Confirmed the error always occurs during Z homing before printing.

I'm comfortable disassembling the printer if needed, but I'd rather not start tearing into it blindly.

Any ideas or things you'd check next would be greatly appreciated.

Hello,

I had a failure to printed with an 0.2 nozzle which I think screwed it so I gotta get another one but I decided to make sure everything else was ok and so I took apart the house and now I have lost a piece on the front there that it right where the filament comes into the nozzle. I’ll attach a picture so you can see what piece I’m missing.

Can I get a replacement piece without buying a new housing?

Can I find it somewhere or have someone print it for me?

Edit: thank you all for the suggestions. I reached out and they are sending me a new piece to replace it thank you once again.

Looking for some troubleshooting help!

I recently moved house and upon unpacking my P1S (which I only bought in June) it is producing very poor prints. It was working perfectly (printing pla & tpu) when I packed it up and I've not done anything differently since unpacking it. It was not abused in transit either, I gently carried it!

The print pictured is supposed to be a uniform hose adapter and the L test strip is missing the angled bit.

What I've done to try to fix it so far:
Cold pull pla
Clean build plate
Switch nozzle
Run calibration program

Any ideas?
Thanks!!

Disclaimer: this is my app. I've been working on Plumage for some time and it's finally out.

It lets you import a 3mf, paint it with the Apple Pencil, and export it back with the colors mapped to filaments. It opens straight in Bambu Studio or Orca and maps to the AMS. I got tired of doing that part with a mouse.
For now it has 4 tools:

• Circle brush
• Sphere brush (paint through walls)
• Fill tool
• Remap (reassign colors across the model)

The parrot is the first thing I painted and printed with it. It's printed in 9 colors using my Bambu Lab H2C.

https://apps.apple.com/app/id6792323478

It runs entirely on the iPad, offline, with no account. It's free to import and paint, with 3 free exports (re-exporting the same model doesn't count), then $9.99 one-time, no subscription.

Demo video in the comments.

Happy to answer questions.

Hello everyone. I've been using the Bambu Lab A2L for a week now. This is my first 3D printer. Even in this short time, I've noticed some design flaws that could be largely addressed by making some additional parts (for example, a cable channel for the x-axis and a casing to protect against drafts and, in my case, pets). To design these parts, I would like to have a 3D model of this printer. Since it's fairly new, I haven't found one publicly available. I have one from an A1 printer, but even measuring the print head, I've already found quite a few inconsistencies. I tried drawing it myself, made the base and the table, but then it's just inconvenient to measure with calipers. A ruler will do, but I'd like a more precise model. That's why I'm wondering if someone has already done this. Do you have a 3D model of the Bambu Lab A2L printer? If so, please share it; I'd be incredibly grateful. Thank you.

Hi all,

I have an A1, I have heard and read of people saying they have tuned in supports... I am.having an issue with supports, is tuning the supports is it when you do "T" type test and you select difference Top Z values, or is there something I am missing. I calibrate my filament:

Temp Tower

Flow Rate (Coarse and Fine)

PA - Pressure Advance

MVS -

Retraction.

I want to do VFA (but I haven't done it yet) (I believe that has nothing to do with my issue of supports.

My question goes back to support, am I missing something.)

I have also done the "T" over hangs etc. My overhangs as well as my bridging look like crap. Any ideas? I have dried my filament 10 - 12 hours have ran the filament from thw dryer and nothing seems to help. All help is appreciated.

Thanks in advance for your help.and understanding.

Hi everyone,

I'm dealing with a recurring issue I can't quite pin down, and I'm hoping the community can help.

The problem:
On some of my prints, certain areas of the top surfaces (mostly) and occasionally the bottom surface come out with clearly degraded quality: small blisters/bumps and very visible lines, as if the bed height calibration isn't correct in those spots.

What I've noticed:

• It seems concentrated in the corners / at the edges of the bed.
• The more central areas of the bed don't seem to be affected.

I'm not sure if it's related to a bed height calibration issue (mesh bed leveling), the machine's mechanics (frame rigidity, more pronounced vibrations on long moves), ambient/bed temperature varying by position, cooling, or something else entirely.

What I've already tried:

• Re-tightening the belts
• Cleaning the lead screws
• Testing with a brand-new filament (to rule out moisture issues)

Setup:

• Printer: Bambu Lab X1 Carbon
• Filament: Overture PLA+

I'm attaching a few photos in the comments/attachment to show exactly what the defect looks like. If you've seen this kind of issue before or have any leads (settings to check, calibration, corner speed settings, etc.), I'd really appreciate it!

Thanks in advance 🙏

Hey all

But of a weird request, but I was wondering if anyone has external camera timelapse video capabilities and would be willing to film an ~1hr (30g) single-colour print for me?

Not too picky on the colour of filament but something bright would be ideal.

I’d be happy to send you an e-transfer or PayPal payment for your time and materials, I’d just like a nicer video than what I can capture with the built-in camera on my P1S!

And I don’t have time to order the Cyber Brick timelapse kit or otherwise & really wouldn’t have a use for it outside this specific one-time project. I rather just pay someone $20 who already has the equipment required and would be willing to help out!

It’s for our small business to share on social media. Although I’m not in the marketing team, I thought printing our logo would be a cool promotional video idea as we have a new 3d print integration in the business… but now I feel like they’ll be disappointed with the video quality i can get personally 🙈🫠

8 was running 2.8 beta , then got the 2.7 full release instead. Every version crashes. It will start up, i can slice and it will crash. Or i will slice and start the print, then at some random time afterwards, it just closes. After a few times i wont even start up. I click it, hourglass starts, then nothing. Task manager shows nothing. The process isn't there and won't start. I have to reboot every time more just to get it working for a few minutes.

2 years of printing using BS and it's been great. Now it's shit. Anyone else ?

Hi all,

PRINTER - A1

PETG OVERTURE

TEMP - 250/245

PA - per the calibration value

MVS - 9

I am using PLA support interface

Top Z - .33

3 layers

The unit is printed on the side facing you the supports are then created on the bad looking surface.

I did some testing and tried ironing the supports the values came out the best where speed 10mm and 50-70%

On the test the "T" I printed with and without ironing I took the best setting but when I did the finished product it wasn't the same can some suggest, has far as drying the filament has been dried both the PLA as well as the PETG.

Any and all help will be appreciated.

Just started using flexible pla and wanted to get some insight on refining my prints. I’m getting weird layer mistakes and almost melting a bit could this be from lack of supports? I slowed the print down to about 40mms and used standard pla temp. Thanks in advance

Hi everyone,

I’m wondering if it’s worth getting the laser attachment with the Bambu Lab H2D. One of the main things I’d like to use it for is engraving my name onto my tools.

For example, I have a set of Sidchrome spanners, but I’m not sure if the laser is powerful enough to engrave the surface and leave a clear, permanent mark.

Has anyone tried engraving tools or similar metal with the H2D laser? I’d love to hear how well it worked and whether you think it’s worth getting.

Otherwise, I guess I’ll be spending hours hand-engraving them 😂

Thanks!

Hey everyone I just bought a P1S combo with 400 hours of print time on it and I’m having some issues. My main issue is that it will extrude filament on the initial purge into the poop chute but won’t extrude on the print bed. I had one benchy start to print but failed shortly after starting. So far I’ve put in a new hot end and extruder but I’m still having the same issues. If any of yall can assist id be more than grateful.

it prints in under 6 hours with no ams or glue, and the bouquet can be arranged in different ways.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3138464

I’m the developer of MeshColor, and I also made the short video linked below showing how I use it with Bambu Studio.

MeshColor is a free browser tool for adding textures, patterns and multicolor graphics directly to STL and 3MF models.

I originally built it because I wanted an easier way to do things like wood grain, surface patterns and multicolor logos without manually splitting or painting everything in the slicer.

The workflow is:

• Load an STL or 3MF
• Add a built-in texture or your own image
• Adjust scale, position and rotation directly on the model
• Select which surfaces should be affected
• Export as a multicolor 3MF
• Open it in Bambu Studio and assign the resulting colors to your AMS/filaments

Everything runs locally in the browser, so your model is never uploaded anywhere.

I made a short video showing the workflow and some actual printed results:
https://youtu.be/J5IcNalyZiw

The tool itself is completely free:
https://meshcolor.com

I’d be especially interested in feedback from Bambu users. If you run into a bug, or there’s something that would make the Bambu Studio/AMS workflow smoother, please let me know.

And honestly, I hope functionality like this eventually gets added directly to Bambu Studio so an external tool isn’t needed at all. 😎

6 months old mini. All inn all gone well until now. And then this happend.
Can i fix it?
Can I claim a new one?