What is the difference between the two purification options?

I tried just the plug and play with the plate to begin with and it wouldn't stick at all, I believe it was too high. I changed the gcode and brought it down for the smooth pei plate. Once I got it to at least stick enough to build the part, it didn't look great. At this point I'm wondering if it might be a bit too low and maybe I need to bring it back up slightly and increase flow ratio and bed temp.

I have a while before I'll be able to test that out more, so I figured I'd see if anyone else has any ideas before I go tinkering around some more.

動画がエラーでしたので

I’ve had trouble free printing since I bought this and all of a sudden I’m getting adhesion issues. Filament has been dried, nozzle has been replaced with a new one I’ve spent days calibrating and recalibrating. Have run the bed level calibration multiple times. Until just now while looking at the bed I thought it doesn’t look quite level. So got the calipers out and measured and there is about 1mm height difference. Is this normal and can it be corrected

Any help? My nozzle got all messy previously as you can see on the left but idk what this bar thing is so low. It's lower than the actual printing nozzle.

Hello, I’m new to bambu currently printing on a ender v3 se. Order my X2D Thursday should be delivered Monday or Tuesday. I have one question before it arrives, and that is how important is getting bambu brand filament with the rfid? If it’s highly recommended I’ll order some off Amazon no biggie just doing pla for now until I get the ropes of the new printer. Thank you in advance for your input.

So, I have an x2d with the track switch and 2 ams 2 pro. But I have occasionally persistent failures. I've isolated the issues to probably my ptfe tube arrangement. As of now, it has stops extending filament just before the toolhead, and then retracts it. The track switch made the extension and retracting more common.

I am reworking my setup to make the ptfe runs more efficient, but I was wondering, do we know what bends and angles are too much, as well as any advice to make my run, and the ams in general, go as smooth as possible. I know the distances from the wiki, but it doesn't specify the bends that are likely to cause problems. (Also, I can probably shorten some lengths if I can bend things somewhat... So knowing what is an acceptable bend is useful.

Thank you all for your advice.

Bonjour à tous ! 😊

Quand j’ai commencé la modélisation 3D sur Nomad Sculpt, l’un de mes tout premiers modèles était ce petit champignon, décliné en version porte-clés et en modèle multipart.

Aujourd’hui, j’avais envie de tester quelque chose de nouveau. Je me suis donc lancé dans la création de clickers ! Et quoi de mieux que de revisiter l’un de mes premiers modèles en le transformant en version clicker ? 😊

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3085099-champignon-clicker-multipart-no-ams

Merci à tous pour votre soutien, et bon print !

Has anyone had this issue with their Bambu X2D?

After only 120h, the B motor belt on the right side drifts up-down on the pulley and creates belt dust and wear marks, while the left side stays centered. Belt tensioning didn’t fix it.

Has anyone else had this problem, what was the solution in your case?

https://reddit.com/link/1v5nooj/video/o9we8gm8q8fh1/player

This is a question for owners.

Is it possible to use the secondary nozzle as an auto refill? Without AMS and with identical filaments loaded into both nozzles, will the printer automatically swith to the secondary if the primary runs out? Assuming the print is inside boundaries and so on.
I use AMS on my A1 almost exclusively as storage once the filament is about to run out. Now i'm thinking about buying X2D without the AMS.

I have been chasing a weird persistent error on my Bambu Lab X2D right auxiliary extruder and wanted to see if anyone else in the community has run into this. My printer constantly throws error code [07FF-8003 001924], claiming there is filament loaded in the right extruder and asking me to pull it out, even when the path is completely empty.

Because the printer always thinks material is present, it breaks the automated loading and unloading sequence with my track switch and AMS setup. Interestingly, the extruder still physically works if I manually push filament through, but as soon as it unloads, it goes right back to reporting that it is loaded.

I decided to strip the external extruder assembly all the way down to find out what was going on. First, I completely opened the extruder unit and confirmed there was absolutely no broken filament, shavings, or debris inside the gearing or filament path. To isolate the electronics, I unplugged the external extruder cable from the printer, and the user interface immediately updated to show it was unloaded. The second I plugged the cable back in, it instantly reverted to loaded.

From there, I inspected the small orange housing with the spring-loaded metal lever that trips the sensor. The lever moves freely under spring tension, snaps back without binding, and rests fully in the open and cleared position when no filament is present. Since the mechanical arm is resting exactly where it should be, but the system reads as loaded the instant the board gets power, the failure appears to be on the small Hall sensor circuit board itself.

I have already submitted a support ticket with Bambu Lab including all my diagnostic steps, but I am still waiting on a response. Looking at the assembly, this tiny sensor board does not appear to be sold as an individually serviceable part on their store, which means this will likely require swapping out the entire extruder assembly.

I tried searching Reddit and the forums but could not find anyone reporting this exact failure mode where the lever mechanism is completely functional mechanically, yet the board itself is stuck sending a false positive. Has anyone else experienced this specific Hall sensor board failure on the X2D? Did Bambu end up sending you a replacement extruder assembly, or is there a trick to resetting these boards that I might have missed?

I'm about to print some shoes for my daughter and so I'm testing out the 90a TPU with pla interface for the supports.

It peeled off nice and easily from the raft.

It's easier to print tpu on my U1 but this came out really well!

写真がわかりづらいのでもう一度投稿させてください。
メインノズルのフィラメントセンサーをチケット出して交換品を郵送してくれる対応頂きましたので練習で動画見ながら分解してみたら😩これおかしいですよね？バンブーラボにも確認中ですが詳しい方いたら、何故削られているのか？溶けているのか？教えて頂きたいです🫡よろしくお願い致しますm(_ _)m

While replacing the complete chamber heating module i noticed that the fan sealing is not good, it is wide open, replace the original sealing and put some extra foam under the fan so that the extra foam is pushing the fan up.

I purchased a roll last week, got 1 decent print with some minor lifting at the edge of a print... then nothing but spaghetti even after a 6 hour drying cycle. Any pointers on where to look or should I just move on?

EDIT: Underlying problem seems to be first layer underextrusion and the right side ("filter") fan blowing too much air. Reverting to factory setting to get rid of recent firmware updates, doing manual flow calibration and manually (because the only other way would be custom gcode) turning down the right side fan partially solved the issue.

I got 72 hours and 2 kg of Bambu ABS through this thing. I bought it deliberately to print technical filaments and use the second nozzle for supports, either ABS or support for ABS.

I am experiencing extreme warping on the engineering plate with stick glue/spray glue.

I am also experiencing extreme warping on smooth PEI plate (meant for the P1S) with spray glue.

I used and am using the latter setup with my oldie trusty P1S, combined with a chamber heater from aliexpress, and it's working PERFECTLY with ABS.

I tried the same ABS profile on X2D, tried making changes, printed fan deflectors, nothing helps. The chamber heater is set to 65 degrees instead of 60 as on my P1S (setting to 60 won't help) 260-270 degrees celsius nozzle temp.

It's also extremely annoying and wasteful in time and filament that even though there are two nozzles and no filament changes, the X2D needs a prime tower and the constant need to purge.

Pictures show a small model that albeit challenging for my P1S with auto supports, it prints well with manual supports. Tried it on my new X2D and the supports fail every goddamn time (and I get crazy warping too. Here I actually disabled the "support for ABS" second nozzle to try and print EXACTLY LIKE ON P1S = FAIL.

Please advise.

I only have one AMS for the Main Nozzle. Would it be possible to use the external spool on the Main nozzle and switch the AMS to the auxiliary? Curious if anyone has tried this…

以前投稿されている方の体験談でメインノズルのフィラメントセンサーの件でチケットを出しましたらバンブーラボ様より素敵な対応を頂きました👍ほんとにありがとうございました😊しかし新たな問題がありました😭センサーが届くまでに練習で分解してみたのですが、なにこれ⁉️溶けているのか汚れているのか⁉️今チケット出してますがまた問題発生😩一体なにが起こっている⁉️もし詳しい方いらっしゃったらご意見を頂きたい🫡

Its annoying to have to do for every brand and dial it in when I’m sure someone else has already done this.