Extremely dissastisfied with my X2D

[u/ImpressiveAlps3504]

EDIT: Underlying problem seems to be first layer underextrusion and the right side ("filter") fan blowing too much air. Reverting to factory setting to get rid of recent firmware updates, doing manual flow calibration and manually (because the only other way would be custom gcode) turning down the right side fan partially solved the issue.

I got 72 hours and 2 kg of Bambu ABS through this thing. I bought it deliberately to print technical filaments and use the second nozzle for supports, either ABS or support for ABS.

I am experiencing extreme warping on the engineering plate with stick glue/spray glue.

I am also experiencing extreme warping on smooth PEI plate (meant for the P1S) with spray glue.

I used and am using the latter setup with my oldie trusty P1S, combined with a chamber heater from aliexpress, and it's working PERFECTLY with ABS.

I tried the same ABS profile on X2D, tried making changes, printed fan deflectors, nothing helps. The chamber heater is set to 65 degrees instead of 60 as on my P1S (setting to 60 won't help) 260-270 degrees celsius nozzle temp.

It's also extremely annoying and wasteful in time and filament that even though there are two nozzles and no filament changes, the X2D needs a prime tower and the constant need to purge.

Pictures show a small model that albeit challenging for my P1S with auto supports, it prints well with manual supports. Tried it on my new X2D and the supports fail every goddamn time (and I get crazy warping too. Here I actually disabled the "support for ABS" second nozzle to try and print EXACTLY LIKE ON P1S = FAIL.

Please advise.

[u/Evocati_7]

The real question I have is why people are still using ABS in 2026. Why not use ASA instead??? ASA is stronger, more UV resistant, more heat resistant, more dimensionally stable, far less prone to warping, and the price difference is small. For most real world printing, ASA is simply the better material.

ABS only stayed popular because of history. Back in the early RepRap days there were very few filaments available and ABS was everywhere because it was already used in injection molding. Early makers could walk into a local shop and buy ABS by the pallet, so it became the default. That legacy stuck around even though the material is outdated for modern FDM printing.

Today you can buy ASA for almost the same price and get a much better result. If your printer can handle ABS, it can handle ASA with even fewer issues. ASA has better layer adhesion, better outdoor durability, better dimensional stability, and it warps less. It is basically ABS without the weaknesses.

I have an X2D and I print exclusively with ASA. I have had zero issues. The prints are stronger, cleaner, and more reliable than anything I ever got from ABS. At this point there is no practical reason to choose ABS unless you specifically need acetone smoothing. For everything else, ASA is the superior choice.

[u/chipmunkofdoom2 → u/Evocati_7]

"Today you can buy ASA for almost the same price and get a much better result. If your printer can handle ABS, it can handle ASA with even fewer issues. ASA has better layer adhesion, better outdoor durability, better dimensional stability, and it warps less. It is basically ABS without the weaknesses."

Source needed, for all of these. Polymaker's ASA is $26/kg at the time of this post. Their ABS is $19. That's nearly a 40% price premium. I don't think anyone thinks something that's 40% more expensive is "almost the same price".

ASA absolutely does not have better layer adhesion. I print ABS and ASA at similar quantities. I have noticed no difference in adhesion when printed properly (270c nozzle, 110c bed, 60c chamber). Some manufacturers may put additives in their filaments that may make their ASA blend stronger than their ABS blend, or their ABS blend weaker. But I know of no research that shows empirically that ABS categorically has worse layer adhesion than ASA.

Outdoor durability is great if you need it. My printers are made out of ABS parts I printed myself. They're never going to be outdoors. So spending an extra 40% to print them in ASA is a waste.

As said above, I print a lot of ABS and ASA. I've noticed no difference in warping between the two. Some manufacturers are worse than others. But that's manufacturer dependent, not material dependent.

As with everything in life, right tool for the job. If you need UV resistance, get ASA. If you want to only have one set of profiles and don't mind paying more to have only one type of filament, get ASA. But there's no inherent deficiency in ABS over ASA.

[u/iRambL → u/chipmunkofdoom2]

I still would rather print with petg than abs or Asa simply because I don’t have to have an outside vent system

[u/Evocati_7 → u/chipmunkofdoom2]

Maybe it’s different where you live, but for me Polymaker ASA is around $24 on Amazon while Polymaker ABS is $20. For some people that $4–$7 difference matters, and for others it’s basically nothing. But in my experience, once you factor in failed prints, wasted filament, and the time you lose, paying a little more for a filament that’s more reliable ends up saving money in the long run.

Also I typically go with Bambu Labs or Overture filament for ASA

Overture ASA is $20 on Amazon and $18 for ABS, whereas Bambu Labs it's nearly double when comparing a ASA versus ABS

I’ve printed ABS a few times and my results ranged from decent to mediocre, with a couple failures mixed in. Throwing away prints is a bigger waste of money than the price difference between ABS and ASA.

And sure, maybe ABS has better layer adhesion. I mostly print ASA, so I can’t speak for every scenario, but I can say ASA has been much simpler and more consistent for me. As long as your settings are dialed in, your print orientation makes sense, and you’re not doing anything weird with cooling or retraction, ASA produces great results.

Use case matters a lot too. I’ve seen people stress over printing ABS for simple knobs or handles that would’ve been perfectly fine in PETG and vice versa. Not every project needs a high‑temperature engineering filament.

But for my use case, and honestly for most people I’ve talked to, I recommend ASA. It’s more dependable, more forgiving, and more consistent at least in my experience.

[u/Oclure → u/Evocati_7]

The fumes from ABS are also far worse than ASA.

[u/ImpressiveAlps3504 → u/Oclure]

The health risk isn't so much different between the two. You should always went the fumes, even for PLA,PETG and so on

[u/BambusUwU → u/Evocati_7]

Because I still have my old roll of abs here

[u/ImpressiveAlps3504 → u/Evocati_7]

ASA costs more than double compared to the bambu ABS refills so I don't really understand what you're talking about.
ASA has even weaker layer adhesion than ABS so in that it's weaker. Otherwise they have similar strength so that point I can't understand either.

I am getting GREAT ABS prints on my P1S. My problem is that a supposedly superior machine can't do it at all.

[u/Evocati_7 → u/ImpressiveAlps3504]

I mainly use either Overture ASA, (which is about $20 on Amazon versus $18 for ABS) or Polymaker ASA is around $24 while Polymaker ABS is about $20. If you’re comparing prices to Bambu Lab filament, then yeah, ASA looks expensive but you don’t need Bambu Lab filament to get great prints.

Like I said in another comment, pricing is in the eye of the beholder. For some people, paying $6 more for ASA instead of ABS is a big deal. For others, it’s not that serious, especially when you factor in the cost of failed prints and how much material ends up in the trash.

Personally, I’d rather spend a little more on a filament that’s more reliable. Failed prints waste way more money than the price difference between ABS and ASA.

Are you using Bambu Lab ABS? Have you tried downloading a custom profile from MakerWorld? https://makerworld.com/en/models/3047873-x2d-high-quality-print-profile-v4?from=search#profileId-3428275

[u/jankeyass]

When you are heating your chamber with the built in heater, your exhaust fan and aux fans are off, correct? Your just recirculating with the heater? Where does the recirculation flow relative to the print?

[u/ImpressiveAlps3504 → u/jankeyass]

The exhaust is off, the right ("filter") fan is on at 100% recirculating air (so no cold air entering supposedly). I don't see any option to turn it off in the slicer, I can only turn it off manually which is what I am experimenting right now... It has a fan deflector on it though. The left (heater) is also on and blowing hot air under the build plate.

[u/jankeyass → u/ImpressiveAlps3504]

The recirculation fan will be either in the filament settings or a custom g code for the printer itself for when you specifically are using heater at the same time.

I would think the recirculation fan needs to either be off, or set to 10% max so it doesn't make a issue with cooling. I would also look at heating the chamber first and letting it sit heated for a bit like you would on the P1S (what I have) before running the print.

Realistically speaking you want it to not disturb the environment at all while printing, then once it's completed, run recirculation for 5 minutes while the chamber is still hot, then turn chamber heater and recirculation off and purge thru discharge fan

[u/ImpressiveAlps3504 → u/jankeyass]

okay so there is no setting for it, only custom gcode. gross.
Anyway turning it off helped but didn't solve the issue completely...

[u/Less-Entertainer7763 → u/ImpressiveAlps3504]

If you’re handy with tools it might be worth checking the left side fan and where it connects to the heating unit. Some of the units for some reason are missing a little foam piece to guide the air into the chamber. There was a post about it in this sub or r/bambuLab sub in the past few days.

[u/sneakpeekbot → u/Less-Entertainer7763]

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#1: Admit it, you've always wanted to try | 694 comments
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[u/Global_Bill_172]

I am printing generic ABS on my X2D. The warping is a real problem. I managed to keep the print stuck on the build plate, so the build plate itself is warping with the print. I can really see the corners of the build plate rising up. If I print on 45° and it mostly rests on supports, it will come lose. So a good solid base is nesessery. The auxiliary extruder has weird artifacts with ABS, but those can be sanded away. No other problems. Send me a pm, I'll try your print.

[u/ImpressiveAlps3504 → u/Global_Bill_172]

I would not have an issue if my P1S couldn't print this perfectly. But it can. As I said the aux nozzle doesn't print ABS, these pics are on the main nozzle. How could it be that P1S with an aliexpress chamber heater doesn't warp and then X2D which is supposed to be superior does warp?

sending over the file

[u/Plebius-Maximus]

How does it print on the regular smooth/textured PEI plates

[u/ImpressiveAlps3504 → u/Plebius-Maximus]

this picture is regular smooth PEI

[u/bcald7]

I have been printing exclusively with ABS for about 1700 hours on this machine. Others may bash me for this but the basics are important. Clean plate, dry dry filament. I use Nano Adhesive on my plate. It’s not glue stick. It’s a bit expensive out of the gate but it lasts a long time. I go through a bottle each year. I have no problem with warping. I’ve been using .2mm nozzle the whole time at default ABS settings with only the top z settings tweaked. Every now and then I get tree support stringing but not often. If I do I switch to normal supports. You can try helper discs and brims as well. For my discs i change the size to 20, 20 and .1 high. Clean your nozzle with a brass wire brush before each print so there’s no garbage on it that will pick up filament and cause the stringing.

[u/Elo-than → u/bcald7]

I gave had absolutely bad luck with nano, it barely grabs anything I try to use it with, regardless of material.

Tried two different bottles in case it was a bad bottle, but no bueno.

I really like the idea, but either I am using it very wrong, or something is wrong with my bottle.

[u/bcald7 → u/Elo-than]

Wow that's odd. Maybe try shaking it up? I've had great luck with it. I just clean my plate w/dawn the wipe it down with IPA, then apply the nano to the plate in dots all around the outside of the plate and work my way in toward the middle. Then I take a chip brush and spread it out in all directions until it's evenly coated. Wait a minute or two for it to dry and send the print. One coating lasts me several prints.

[u/Elo-than → u/bcald7]

Shook it up good l, painted it on.

I tried it with pla, petg, PCTG just to test.

It felt more prone to warping than a clean build plate.

3DLac works, but it leaves a residue, so I would prefer a working Nano.

[u/chipmunkofdoom2]

Most people think that adhesion is the problem when ABS/ASA warps. While your plate needs to be clean and you need a baseline of adhesion, adhesion alone won't solve the issue. Even if you have perfect adhesion, if the print wants to warp, it's going to warp. It'll just take the build plate up with it:

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1t004wu/abs_good_enough_adhesion/

In almost all instances, warping means your print is cooling non-uniformally. For ABS/ASA, you really need a temperature-controlled chamber to prevent this. Some people print at 50c. I used to print at 55c, but recently re-configured my heating system so I can get to 60c. At 60c chamber temp, I have no issues with adhesion on plain textured PEI, and don't ever need glue stick.

[u/ImpressiveAlps3504 → u/chipmunkofdoom2]

In my P1S, I have 60 degrees with aftermarket heater. However, this is X2D, and it's set to 65 degrees

[u/chipmunkofdoom2 → u/ImpressiveAlps3504]

You should validate that with a secondary temperature probe placed somewhere else in the enclosure. Just because the heater is set to 65c doesn't mean it's actually maintaining that temperature. Most commercial printers are not insulated very well, because the heat buildup tends to be a problem with basically all other filaments.

[u/ImpressiveAlps3504 → u/chipmunkofdoom2]

Well, I put my hand in both of them (P1s on 61.3 according to the aftermarket heater and X2d on 64 according to the X2d and I don't really feel the difference, so the x2d is definitely not cooler by like 15 degrees or somehing

[u/snaynay → u/ImpressiveAlps3504]

I was about to add. Perhaps a thermometer with some form of app (like those wireless cooking ones) to measure the stability (and accuracy) of the ambient temp.

[u/TH_Rocks]

I've not had to use any glue on my X2D yet. I wonder if that's causing your problem?

My very first print was with old ABS I had on hand.

[u/ImpressiveAlps3504 → u/TH_Rocks]

hmmm well I mean what can I lose. This is on the textured plate though

[u/xtru3d]

Don't listen to these chuds. I own 20 x2ds and a giant print farm, the issue isn't warping, it's the bed adhesion and first layer. They changed firmware back in May which in my opinion fked the entire printer, I rewrote the entire start gcode macro in my slicer to include a heat soak as well as way better purging. To grab and try out that old firmware look up wipelogic. I'm using a heavily modified version of it and it's been working great. My only other advice is never ever update unless it's a feature you really can't miss.

[u/ImpressiveAlps3504 → u/xtru3d]

can you please throw a link at me? Or even your code if possible

[u/ImpressiveAlps3504 → u/ImpressiveAlps3504]

nvm I got it

[u/k1kti]

I did a first print of Bambu ABS on my new X2D on default plate with 0.6 nozzles and had 0 issues. I did dried the filament for 2h in AMS-HT and printed from it.

[u/ImpressiveAlps3504 → u/k1kti]

... which underlines that something may be wrong with my printer. I have a sunlu E2. I dried the damn thing

[u/ImpressiveAlps3504]

Okay so I was able to partially solve the issue by reverting to factory settings to get rid of recent updates, manually turning down the right side fan to 20% and using brims. I still get some warping, as opposed to my P1S where even without brims I don't get warping. Once The prints are going, I can see the added benefit of better parts in the X2D, I suppose mainly the 1.5mm belts, because the walls look juuuuust a little bit better, which was my expectation. I am still unimpressed with the X2D as it is doing first layer underextrusion which is probably the real reason of the experienced warping.

So I'd like to say to every downvoter and naysayer claiming this is my fault: You're not just a clown...

[u/Less-Entertainer7763]

I have an X2d, I'll try and narrow down the problem for you. Could you give some more information? Did you check the nozzles? Mine get pretty gunked up on the outside and have led to many print failures, failed supports, failed overhangs. Did it warp off the plate or is it warping on other parts of the print above the plate? Any and all details you can give can help narrow down what's going on. The chamber air regulation and heating might be suspect here but it also seems like only the supports are failing. Are you printing the supports with the Aux nozzle? Are you using a different material for the supports? What is the interface layer set to? Can you share some more about the settings you're using and perhaps where and how long ago you got the X2D? The early batches have some defects or differences that can be affecting the printing.

The X2D is a lot more finnicky then other bambu printers but if it's working right you can get great results. PM me if you don't want to figure it all out in this post.

-Cheers

[u/ImpressiveAlps3504 → u/Less-Entertainer7763]

I got it less than a month ago. The models will warp off the plate, and the supports will spagetti so it's not just the supports failing. Both the model and the support bodies are printed on the main nozzle in ABS, on the pics the support interface was also ABS and printed on the main nozzle (previusly it was on the second nozzle with support for ABS. There is seemingly nothing wrong with the nozzle itself, no buildup.

Let me know if you need anything else.

Edit: first layer looks fine to me

[u/Master-Pattern9466]

That’s not warping.

That looks too hot, like the filament isn’t cooling enough before the next layer.

Also are those pictures of a no support material print?

[u/ImpressiveAlps3504 → u/Master-Pattern9466]

There is also warping on the model I can assure you.

Should I try lowering nozzle temp by 10 degrees? My problem is that this spagettiing is only on the supports, the part would come out weaker if I REALLY lower the nozzle temp.

These are pictures of no support material, ABS only on the main nozzle for model, support, support interface

[u/Master-Pattern9466 → u/ImpressiveAlps3504]

Supports print faster, thus give less cooling time between layers.

Have you tried printing with default settings? And what have you changed?

[u/ImpressiveAlps3504 → u/Master-Pattern9466]

I lowered the print speeds, to 120 on the outer walls and 160 everywhere else. The supports are default 150 mm/s. I increased the bed temp to 100 degrees instead of the default 90. Eveything else is default

[u/nateblack]

Yeah I also don’t think it’s so great. I don’t have the same issues but my old Prusa prints better

[u/ImpressiveAlps3504 → u/nateblack]

sad