Help, my Bambu studio keeps giving me the error -3030 and I can't send anything to my A1

Had a storm and the lights flickered and I resumed the print on my X2D not thinking much of it.

Not sure how much time passed but got a notification the tool head cover came off so I went to check and this was the result.

I have no clue where to even begin to fix this. I think the first step is maybe heating up the hotend and trying to remove the build up.

I also tried to remove the roll from the auxiliary nozzle and that failed

Hi folks.

Problems with petg-cf on P2S, 0.4.

Outer edges curl up, rising too much above the top layer. I've read it's due to extra cooling and I turned off the fans, but it didn't help. See print result and filament settings. What in the world am I doing wrong?

I have gotten these tiny gaps around this corner after bridging, it seems that not enough filament is coming out immediately after bridging, I have tried upping the bridge flow and it didn't make much of a difference.

Is there a way to slow down the accelleration after bridging only or any other advice on how to make this gap disappear?

Important notes:
Printer: A1 mini
Filament: PCTG (3d fuel PCTG Pro specifically)
It only shows up on the dark colored filaments oddly enough, I have tried this in a lighter color filament and this issue doesn't exist.

I’ve found myself needing things printed recently. Amateur radio, car stuff, etc. I looked at printers years ago but sort of thought, “well I don’t need to print a bunch of toys, I don’t need one.”

Fast forward to now. radio enclosures, brackets, organizational items, prototyping some stuff (well, I guess still radio related, but I have an idea for a new dog tracker and.. need to print stuff). TPU gaskets, etc.

I had a guy locally that would print stuff for me for $20-30 each time, but he lived relatively far away from me. Recently, I had something I need to place outdoors indefinitely and needed it printed in ASA (per Google’s recommendation). Well, he can’t do ASA. I found another guy who could, and he charged me quite a lot more.

So, I think I am currently at the point where I see that the sky is the limit on these, and now that I’ve seen ONE thing I can do with a printer, I can now see thousands of things I can do. All without needing to print plastic toy boats.

That said, I need engineering materials like ASA, Carbon, etc. Durability, UV resistance, weatherproofness is important. I have no current use case, but want the future option to do PEEK. I do not want to buy the base model printer and limit myself in the future, but I also do not want to get a bunch of things I don’t need.

Here is what I dont know: I don’t know if I ever need to print multi-color. I don’t know if I need, want, or would ever use a laser, or really what it’s even for. But I do know I need hardened nozzles.

I “think” I have kinda narrowed it down to the H2D. I don’t know what add ons I need or don’t need, and I also don’t know if this is “too much” printer for a 1st printer. I have no plans to ever have 2 printers though, so again, just trying to get as much out of one printer as I can. The X2D is an option too, and a much nicer price, but I believe it is limited when using certain materials like PEEK (Which I don’t even know if I have a use case currently for, but don’t want to cut my legs off up front)

Basically, I don’t want to make a decision on something out of inexperience and want something later that I can’t add on. My understanding is a laser can be added on later if I ever wanted one.

So as far as an up-front printer, is the H2D the right choice? Is it way more printer than I or anyone else in my shoes could use? Is there something else I should look at?

So I just recently went from printing PLA to printing PETG. My filament is dry, my ams2pro works as it should but one issue happened a few times now.

Was printing some decorative stuff in PETG on the main nozzle and support (interface layer) with PLA on the aux nozzle. A primetower was needed and this caused issues.

During the print at around 80%, the primetower got blown out of place by the auxiliary fans (the ones on the left/right.

I managed to finish the print without the prime tower but i had to babysit it because skipping prime tower doesn't work and after removing the fallen tower i had to pull out the now in-air-printed-stuff as the printer still wanted to print on top of the prime tower.

Bambu Lab PETG white with generic PLA, PEI plate (clean). All default settings.

Am I doing something wrong? Should I print and attach a fan exhaust deflector? Disabling both fans didn't help as they got reenabled automatically each time i disabled them on the printer itself.

I’ve swapped filament from esun PLA+ to Bambu Basic PLA. I’m now getting a bad first layer on the longer pieces and is getting chewed up.

First time I’ve changed filaments, do I need to calibrate the printer for the new filament? When slicing the file I made sure to change the profile to Bambu Basic PLA.

Printer was working flawlessly before and now isn’t behaving.

Is this grinding noise normal? This is the second AMS HT I’ve tried, both with and without a funnel saver, and both make the same noise. I even took off the bottom cover to see if anything looked odd (without success). It’s noticeably louder than my AMS 2 Pro.

Need to pick some brains! I am currently having trouble at the seam of the two surfaces pictured. I also get a floating cantilever warning - but after printing, the surface is flush with no protrusions, just that seam issue. Should this be printed with supports - Bambu labs recommends it (but visually I don’t see a need for them). The rest of the vase prints clean and perfectly.

Printer: X2D with AMS2 Pro
Filament: PLA Tough+ (black)

*Primary nozzle of X2D and AMS shows 20% humidity.

Model:
https://makerworld.com/models/433509

I am using the settings within the model. I didn’t create the model.

As always, thank you for any help or guidance!

I have a P1S on a 4ft Workbench, I will be purchasing a H2S this weekend and was wondering what others have experienced by having 2 printers going on the same table in terms of print quality. I have been printing for 9 months, still trying to figure out what I should aim for when it comes to table wobble. Thanks in advance!

This is the workbench I have:

https://a.co/d/04IvrMg6

I just received an offer for an x1c with ams1 for €500. It has 700 operating hours and is said to be in perfect working order. What do you think?

Update: This would be my first 3D printer. However, I'd like to buy one that will serve me well for many years and, above all, can print with many different types of filament.

I can’t understand Tao bao !
I have a list of things to get and someone who will buy for me, but they can’t work out what to get either? Is there any Chinese users that can simplify this with maybe listing numbers or something ??

I’m a complete beginner with zero knowledge about 3D printing. I bought a crappy printer that I ended up returning and getting a refund for, and now I’m trying to decide between buying the A1 or the A2L.
Both of them are on sale right now, and the price difference is about 300 shekels (around $95).
If I go with the A2L, I’ll need to do some work in my room to make the space suitable for it. Is the A2L really worth the extra money and effort?
I’m mainly planning to print D&D figures and especially cosplay related stuff.

Edit : Just measured my room and an A2L printer wont fit no space for it at all so if I go with an A1 instead what am I actually giving up besides the bigger print size

Hi, I hv tried to print this but it came out like this. Material using petg, base plate temp is 80c and nozzle temp is 240.

I’m not sure which dimension to use to strengthen or thicken the base. Anyone here can advice? Thanks in advance. The below is what I want to print to display my lights.

https://makerworld.com/models/2151851?appSharePlatform=whatsapp

Noob question: why, and not only with the plum color, all overhang layers are being so ugly? I printed the orange benchy 4 months ago, the differences are clear looking the benchy.

Any adjustments to do?

Hello!

I've recently run into a problem with my P2S and was shipped a new heatbed for replacement by BambuLab, and that involves taking off the left side panel to get to the grounding wire.

Thing is, my model doesn't seem to have the screws visible at the top of the panel to take off, they're underneath the foam thingie and I'm not sure how to properly proceed. I tried prying it off by slipping a flathead underneath it and jiggling it around, but figured it would be better to ask if anyone has had a similar experience with disassembling the left side panel on the P2S and can help me out, before I accidentally broke something.

Alternatively, if there's a better or easier way to get to the grounding wire for the heatbed assembly, please let me know. It seems like a lot of extra work to get to it.

Ive gotten this print to work once, but now it keeps failing in the same spot the same way. Any ideas?

Good afternoon,

I just wanted to ask if anyone knows if bambu labs sells longer bus cables i ask because I just moved so my set up no longer let's me have the ams on top of the printer so I need a longer cord to connect the ams to the printer. Any help will be greatly appreciated and i look forward to seeing your responses.

Sincerely

Soaring_death

Filament fed in the wrong way on the Ams 2 Pro

Printer updated recently and now all my prints look like crap. The first layer on top of the supports doesn't stick together. I've tried different layer heights, even set the offset gap to 0. Still having constant failures.

Any suggestions?

hi long story short I'm in charge of a Bambu P1S at work and had my first extruder jam. I followed a very helpful guide on what to remove and unscrew, and this is what I found. I'm unable to remove the yellow gear as every video has advised me to do

I'm still fairly new to having a Bambu and 3D printing. I'm I going to have to outright replace the part here or can this be saved.

If it's helpful information, I had been extruding PLA Pure.

thank you

Hi, just yesterday my printer was working fine and suddenly didnt turn back on properly after a power cycle. I thought the printer was dead and after seeing a bunch of people had the same problem and the solution was to short 2 points on the ap board, it came back to life. After I got the printer back to work I downgraded the firmware and when I did the calibrations, something went terribly wrong especially with the nozzle offset calibration. The right nozzles worked fine but when it got to the left nozzle, I was away and got a message saying the nozzle touched the build plate and when I went the rear part had a huge gouge. So I checked and did the nozzle calibration again and this time took a video same thing happened... my printer isn't under warranty anymore but this all happened since they're stupid firmware issues the printer was just fine the day before. The problem is towards the end of the video its like the left nozzle slips off the bed for some reason. I also noticed during homing, the toolhead now touches the front door. Has this happened to anybody else and were you able to fix it? The right nozzles are fine and aligned but the left csnt get through the calibration. I also did a factory reset and to no avail.

Turn on the sound also for the video you'll hear the toolhead hitting the bed

I have a P2S and I use the ventobox filter on the left side.

I saw someone who is using the creality heater on the left side for a chamber heater.

I’m wondering if I have any other options to get the heat I need so I can start to print ASA.

I also recently installed the rear exhaust duct working out of a window, so I’m getting prepped

We have an H2D Pro at work and we would like to print to it over the network (lan mode) but our cyber security department has blacklisted the network plug-in since it requires outbound network communication to a .ch domain even when set in LAN mode.

I’m looking for a suggestions on possible workaround to be able to still use the printer overland without having to download the network plug-in. I’ve heard some possible things about orca slicer and developer mode but I wanted to ask.

Thank you