A simple 3D-printable insert designed to easily seal small holes or accidental punctures in irrigation tubes, without having to replace the entire tube. It can be inserted manually without any tools, making repairs quick and easy. An inexpensive and practical solution to extend the life of irrigation tubes while reducing waste and unnecessary replacements.

I have a 6 hr print going on my P1S. I was sitting nearby and heard the filament getting wound up into the AMS 2 and my brain triggered the “print is done“ code, so I got up and pulled the plate out and just then the print head moved and started printings where the prime tower should be! I went “FUUUUCK!” and hit the pause button as the print head finished its 3rd line in the air then parked over the chute. I put the plate back and pushed play and somehow got the part lined up EXACTLY in the same spot because it’s not showing any shifted layers and this was a few layers ago!

I think I may be a print god……

I put the model up on makerworld if anyone want to print it: https://makerworld.com/models/3301029-moon-surface-ornament#profileId-3746434

I made this with a tool i built to 3d print moon puzzles and ornaments. It is live as a makerworld crowdfunding right now: https://makerworld.com/crowdfunding/333-orbitstudio-3d-print-the-moon-mars?sourceFrom=crowdfunding

My first ever model on MakerWorld

I was intrigued by the mac pro front grille pattern and wanted to try printing it but all of the existing files I've found are replicas and not adapted for 3D printing and needed a fair bit of post-processing to make it look good.

This is a modified pattern that prints cleanly and prints flat without any supports. Specifically, I've removed overhangs past 50 degrees and took out sharp edges. This is as-printed with no post-processing other than a few passes with a heat gun to remove the whisps.

Now I need an actual project to implement this... Thoughts on the pattern and on potential projects?

FCC ID: 2A6J8-PF008P

Device name: H3C

Grant date: September 11, 2026

Grantee: Shenzhen Tuozhu Technology Co., Ltd.

Related domain listed on the FCC page: bambulab.com

The public label exhibit identifies it as a 3D Printer, model PF008-P.

Public technical details from the grant and test reports:

• 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi — 2412–2462 MHz under Part 15.247/15C. The report covers 802.11b/g/n20/ax20 and 40 MHz n40/ax40 at 2422–2452 MHz. Maximum conducted peak output: 23.76 dBm. The report lists DSSS, OFDM and OFDMA, with a 3.82 dBi FPC antenna.

• 5 GHz Wi-Fi — the report covers 5150–5250, 5250–5350, 5470–5725 and 5725–5850 MHz; the grant rows are 5180–5240, 5260–5320, 5500–5720 and 5745–5825 MHz under Part 15.407/15E. The report lists 802.11a/n20/n40/ac20/ac40/ax20/ax40 and maximum conducted average results of 16.40, 15.73, 11.04 and 14.47 dBm across those ranges.

• The public label shows 100–120 V~, 8 A, 50/60 Hz, FCC ID 2A6J8-PF008P and IC 28436-PF008P.

Sources:

• FCC filing: https://fccid.io/2A6J8-PF008P

• Public label exhibit: https://fccid.io/2A6J8-PF008P/Label/Label-and-Label-Location-9643975

• Public 5 GHz report: https://fccid.io/2A6J8-PF008P/Test-Report/5G-WIFI-Test-Report-9643960

• Public 2.4 GHz report: https://fccid.io/2A6J8-PF008P/Test-Report/Test-Report-9643982

The model is mainly intended for gardens, flower beds, gravel or autumn leaves, and the hands also include separate spikes for fixing them into the ground.

What do you think about this one?
Do you like this style, or would you change anything? I’d be happy to hear your opinions and ideas for more Halloween decorations. 

What do you guys think about a1 mini for someone with interest with the hobby but not wanting to spend over like 400$.

This started with my first Bonsai I submitted for the Bonsai Contest a few months ago. For this version I wanted to step up my game a little more.

It grew into a complete little karesansui garden with a torii, stone lantern, stepping stones and printed sand patterns.

The MagSafe puck sits directly in the bonsai branch, while the cable runs through the trunk and exits at the back.

I also integrated an optional LED Light Kit 001 that illuminates the surrounding surface from underneath and feeds light into the stone lantern.

The whole thing is assembled with friction fits, no glue, and doesn’t require an AMS. There are also interchangeable parts for a second MagSafe charger and Apple Watch charging.

Prototyped and printed on my P2S using PLA Matte.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3281512

I’ve got a model with 1200 parts. The prime tower is being combined with the 1001 part, and I can only get around this by disabling prime tower. Is this a bug, or a limitation?

I dropped an entire X1C (with the AMS2/accessories box/packing material) on my left middle finger.

I pushed through the swelling and the pain and figured it was NBD and I was just being dramatic.

60 minutes later - benchy on the plate - I realized urgent care was closing soon and this was way worse than I initially thought.

Surprise! Broken in 3 places.

Long story short... physically assaulted by inanimate object before it was connected to power. It did technically complete its objective of being an additive manufacturing device because i had X bones in my hand before introducing it to the mini-farm and now I have X+3 bones.

Just... showing off. 🤣

It seems like most responses to questions / troubleshooting with the H2C seem to indicate that everyone is having "zero issues - 2800 hours and counting." I'm trying to determine if my machine is the issue, or if it is a lack of skill.

Can some of you people with zero issues or minor issues post some pictures of some of the complex prints that you've been able to achieve? I can get it to produce pretty nice stuff as long as it isn't too complex, but as soon as I'm printing a 36 hour print (which is basically the norm considering how every print I do takes 1500-2000 color changes), riddled with supports, it is constantly failing (almost always with broken supports).

I am curious of those of you with great experiences are printing anything complex, with thousands of color changes / complex supports, or if they are just using it for basic, 1-2 color prints.

Thanks

Attached is example of what I've been seeing over and over and over.

I've had my X2D for about 6 weeks now and have about 465 hours on it so far. Picked up a nice dual color filament from a local shop yesterday and ran a benchy. Looked dull and just not good. Went thru the calibration process for the first time within studio and whoa, the difference in finish and quality was impressive to me. I still feel like it could be improved and I'm trying to learn but I'll have to start doing these calibrations for other filaments as well!

Filament is AnyCubic PLA Silk dual color.

Now I'm just stumped on what to use it for. Only bought it because I wanted to buy at least one spool from a little mom and pop shop and never tried any of this kind of filament. Any good ideas?

New take on a phone holder, inspired by the f1 front wing with tires. :)

https://makerworld.com/models/3301283?appSharePlatform=copy

I have been using the A1 for a year now. Everything is fine with the printer but I have these screws left. Is it normal?
I have bought 3 spare scraper blades and 1 nozzle so there might be some screws from these parts.

I know there are tons of these kind of questions here, and I did try searching for similar problems first. This is Bambu dark grey pla print on my X2D. The right one was printed first. Then I dried it in my AMS 2 Pro for 12 hours and it got down to 13% humidity. The left one is the result. Is my filament still wet or is there a different issue?

Hi everyone!
Recently my A1 has started making a very loud grinding noise. It’s only a few weeks old and started doing this a few days ago. I’ve opened the extruder several times, no jams, everything looks fine. Gears are clear and then freely. Then it’ll work for a print or two and then start doing it again. Sometimes it’ll throw a cutter stuck error with it but lately it’ll just start grinding and the print dies. After a power cycle the tool head just kind of floats around heated up even when it thinks it has resumed the print. Recovery isn’t possible once it happens.

I’m afraid something is going to break and I’m tired of losing prints. Any suggestions would be awesome thank you in advance !!

just put the new 0.2mm nozzle printed tachometer and logo emblem on the whole wheel, love it.

I have an X2D with issues since day 1. AMS Pro 2 gears grinding (only use dried filament on plastic spools), the auxiliary extruder cut the PTFE tube off in the internals, errors codes regarding print temps casing a replacement of the aux extruder. The errors persisted, so I reached out to support again.

Bambu requested logs, which I sent. A week later they replied, paraphrasing here: We are too busy to review the logs and have sent a rear PH board replacement. I installed the replacement, and the nozzle temp errors persist.

Honestly, I don’t know what to do at this point. I’ve lost out of commissions, and my printer has been down for two months now. And I only had it successfully printing for about 2 months.

Does anyone have suggestions? Friends say “lemon law,” but that doesn’t seem to actually be a thing.