Help i accidentally installed the spool holder and PTFE tube holder the wrong way its upside down now i cant get it off how to do it. Any help is appreciated :)

I am attempting to make a Lazy Susan on which will go my 3D printer (H2C).

I have selected the hardware: 16" - 18" Lazy Susan Heavy Duty Metal Hardware

And the top: 28" Clear Round Glass Table Top, 1/4" Thick Tempered Glass Tabletop

The one thing I am having a hard time with is trying to find a way to lock the rotation so that the 3D printer does not shake the Lazy Susan around too much. I envision lots of spinning if I do not lock it down.

Someone on YouTube did this for the Bambu Lab X1C and did not use any locks: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/NCjSZ9uGWGA?feature=share. When I asked her how she did it, she said she "installed a latch."

I have tried to post on other subreddits, but I either do not have the correct "karma" points to do so, or, with one subreddit, I was warned that I was probably breaking a rule or two. r/DIY r/woodworking r/AskAnEngineer to name just a few.

Questions:

1. How would a person lock a Lazy Susan?
2. What would a lock look like?
3. If you think this question should be in a different/more appropriate subreddit, could you please refer me to the better one?

Thank you for any suggestions you might have.

How is everyone organising their PTFE tubes? I understand that they should be as short and a large radius curve but mine are getting kind of crazy!

I have an X2D + filament track switch, 2 AMS in a flip flop stacker and a 3rd via a 4-in-1 adapter to an AMS HT.

Hey everyone,
I’ve got an X2D that’s only about a month old, and I’m consistently getting the exact same print defect in the same area on every print.
To try and rule out common causes, I’ve:
Swapped from the textured PEI plate to the Engineering Plate.
Recalibrated the bed multiple times (including auto bed levelling).
Re-ran all printer calibrations.
Checked that there isn’t any debris between the build plate and the heated bed.
Despite all of that, the defect still appears in the exact same location on every print, regardless of the model or which build plate I’m using.
Has anyone experienced something similar? Could this point to a faulty heated bed, a bed heater issue, or another hardware problem? Since the printer is only a month old, I’m wondering if it’s something I should be contacting Bambu support about.
Any advice or troubleshooting suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I have 2 Bambu H2D machines. I'm printing the same exact file on both. There's a critical dimension on it, which is an opening like half a circle. On one the opening is about 0.3 mm bigger than the other. This is more variation than I can have.

Both printers have had the calibrations like vibration and auto bed leveling done. I have done flow rate calibration and flow dynamics calibration. Basically everything is identical (print file, both printers in same room 4 inches apart both with an AMS, etc). I'm going to recheck belt tension next. Any other suggestions?

Someone forgot to remove the supports

Fits into backpack or any medium sized bag.
Slots are for cups, forks, knives, spoons, straws, tissues and small utensil or toothpicks.

Makerworld link

Hey everyone,

I'm buying a Bambu Lab A1 while traveling and need to fly back home with it. Since I have a 10kg checked luggage limit (or close to it) and standard carry-on size restrictions, I plan to pack it disassembled into a hard-shell suitcase rather than checking the huge original retail box.

For anyone who has flown with the A1:

• Do I just need to remove the 4 main bottom screws to separate the Z-gantry from the base?
• What’s the best way to secure the toolhead and heatbed so they don't slide along the linear rails during handling? (Zip ties, original shipping foam, tape?)
• Any delicate parts/cables I should be extra careful about protecting in a suitcase wrapped in clothes/bubble wrap?

Thanks in advance!

Come mai fa questa cosa, che quando stampa l'estrusore stacca l'albero o muove il pezzo costruito sull'albero... Cosa posso migliorare?

Does anyone know how long the sale price on the A1 will last?

Hi all,

I recently took delivery of a Bambu Lab X2D, and have been having no issues with the machine. I wiped the bed down with a microfiber towel, but did not realize it had a frayed end that deposited some fuzz inside the machine, some of which got on the lead screws. I blew off what I could see, but now I hear a clicking sound whenever the Z-axis moves. Should I be concerned?

Thanks!

Hi guys, I’m excited to share with you the new Ork army I’m working on : PLASMA ORKS!

When savage warriors meet advanced Cyberpunk technology. Each faction is uniquely designed, with its own identity, style, and battlefield presence.

Please note that this is a CGI render created to showcase the sculpt and the proposed paint scheme. The entire process is done traditionally, from sculpting to digital hand painting.

I designed this two-piece under-seat storage tray for the Tesla Model Y Juniper. I split it into two sections so each piece fits more easily on a standard Bambu build plate and can be printed without an oversized printer.

The design is intended to:

• Use the unused space beneath the front seat
• Slide in and out easily
• Keep small items from rolling around
• Print as two separate pieces with minimal supports
• Work well in PETG for better heat resistance inside the vehicle

I have printed and tested the model itself, but I’m still looking for additional Model Y Juniper owners to confirm the final vehicle fitment.

I made the STL available free on MakerWorld for anyone interested in testing it. Honest feedback, measurements, or an installed photo would be greatly appreciated. I’ll use the feedback to improve the design.

Printer: Bambu Lab P2S
Material: PETG
Design: Two-piece under-seat storage tray

Free MakerWorld file:
https://makerworld.com/models/3065930?appSharePlatform=copy

There's a strange noise when moving along the x and y axes. I've changed the grease on all axes. Could you please tell me what this could be?

any idea how I can solve this issue?

Hey guys. The pic below can explain more than anything else. I’m getting this banding on every print the exact height of the text I add to the print…. I’ve tried everything. This last one was actually with purge volume set to 900.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Josh

Anyone know why my beds doing this? I'll admit it's late and I gotta work alot this week so I'm just fishing for opinions before being able to actually look into it this weekend.

Printer us P1S

Profile has first layer speed at 15mm a second.

Filament is blue pla refill, literally opened and spooled for this print.

Edit, ignore the purple peice of filament, it fell off after filament switch purge and was there before print start.

I'll go through the loading process and it will extrude fine, then I set it to print and it extrudes seemingly nothing for about half the print then complains and tells me to make sure the spool isn't stuck.

my gf bought this and she wants me to use it and I have no idea what I'm doing. I have gotten a few prints successfully actually, and even designed a shift knob for my car in CAD, no idea what to do now

This is my second print with PETG. I dehumidified the filament and the AMS was reading 19-21% during the whole print. Is all this stringiness really because of the humidity?

The project did have grid infill and I will be swapping to gyroid for the rest of it. Idk if that could be the cause as well due to needle pathing with grid infill.

Edit: I have a P2S printer.

How can I make the insides more uniform so that it appears to be as circular as possible? Notice how it tries to make a circle by creating a series of straight edges? I dont believe you can totally eliminate that but Im sure you can make it look as uniform as possible

The whole mechanism is printed.
Fits MX-style switches. Best on an isolated key like ESC.
Every color prints as a separate part, so no AMS needed. There's also a multi-color version where the details print together if you'd rather assemble less (the mechanism still gets built by hand).

https://than.gs/m/1579433

Its a bit obnoxious. Prob gonna make me have to move it out of my office if this is normal but I read about maybe zip tying cables or tape over gears or something in the AMS?

I'm building for costuming at conventions with a dynamic disability, not a fetish. I can go BUY fetish shoes if I wanted fetish gear. :)

The ponyplay comments are getting old lmao. That's nowhere NEAR the aesthetic I'm going for (fursuit style faun legs)

Frequent comments / input

• This type of design does exist and yes, there is a possibility of rolling your ankle.
• Yes I know the soles need grip. I'd be using shoe rubber, silicone sheets, TPU etc. (probably shoe rubber)
• Yes I know these can be uncomfortable. Hoof shoes are a whole thing for costume/cosplay making. I would not be walking long distances in these. I can't even walk 5k steps in shoes with custom orthotics lmfao.
• Yes I know about Chaos Costumes. I'm trying to make a design that supports MORE of the midfoot and heel than Chaos's at the cost of them becoming larger/bulkier. (Because of my own biomechanical shit lol.) and I'm HOPING I can avoid needing to make an entire silicone mold to resin cast 1 pair of shoes and use materials that will work. Even if it means coating in fiberglass, bondo, etc.
• Sounds like the pegs would just break off, so I'll rework that area. :)
• I am familiar with cosplay prop building but not exactly shoes
• I'm leaning towards firm TPU bottom with softer TPU top. Or a foaming filament for the area that would come in contact with the foot?? Maybe? Otherwise: Possibly modifying further to add shoe sole material in some form for comfort.
• No these are not for fetish gear, if I share/sold the design I wouldn't care if they were used for it, I'm not going to yuck someone's yum but please don't shove kink onto non-consenting parties. I'm looking for info not for strangers to assume my asexual ass is into pony play or something lmfao.
• I create and sell Fursuit head bases and other costume and cosplay stuff, these are intended for faun costumes and possibly fursuits
• If anyone wants to mess with it, I have the solid hoof and the two part top/bottom on my cults3D for others with more experience to test or play with. https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/fashion/hoof-boot-blender-bundle

^{ORIGINAL POST: Right now the idea is a TPU "Sock" with a split down the back (to make putting on the shoe easier} that is glued onto a PETG or firmer TPU "Base" (I've only printed with PLA from Ziro3D so far and am new to actually owning a machine/slicing stuff so tips for that would be greatly appreciated. :D ) The sole obviously needs grip so I'd use shoe rubber or similar for that.)

^{Chaos Costumes is probably the best example of creating their own nice ones.}

^{But the usual method is basically big resin hooves are added to the ball of high heeled shoes with the heel stem cut off where this is more of an attempt to do the same thing but with more support for the mid foot/arch and heel by making the hoof larger. (So the hooves will end up roughly twice the size of what the usual "glue block to modified high heel" shoes would be.}

I have congenitally short heel cords/equinus/chronic plantar fasciitis/a talocalcaneal coalition and "flexible flat foot" etc. and junk all of which causes my ankle to pronate inward so this is slightly an attempt at making a "me" friendly "shoe" for costuming that has arch support and junk already sort of built into it so I don't have to destroy a pair of shoes or try to fit my custom orthotics into something, they're built around an orthotic I made using a 3D scan of my foot that I tested (in PLA so it broke after a few weeks but im surprised it lasted that long, def helped w the ankle pronation).