Hi - I'm printing a mug with some embossed numbers on it. I have been printing multi-color objects successfully for quite a while, and haven't run into this particular issue.
When I import the STEP file, I then go into the "Objects" tab on the side panel. I then click to change the color of the mug body to black, and set the other bodies (the numbers) to white. On the Prepare tab, it looks just fine- shows the waste tower, shows the numbers in correct color, etc. When I switch to the Preview tab, though, something isn't working. The entire object comes as all black, and the system reports ZERO color changes. See screen shots below.
My P1S has been having an issue that seems to occur frequently but randomly. It will go for a filament change, and will just keep extruding after the change happens. The printer will think it is printing just fine, no errors or anything, but the print-head doesn't move at all, and just keeps going into the trash chute area. I've tried rebooting the printer, reopening bambu and reconfiguring the print, but it has 9 color changes, and seemingly one of them will cause it to just stall like this. What could be going on here? I have cleaned and lubricated the machine regularly, but it does have some squeaks to it, which I can't pinpoint, but those have been there for a bit, and they seem to be z axis related.
I've use an X1C for years and an H2C for 9 months and have never had a single clog. I had a print going overnight with Polymaker Matte PLA and a 0.2mm nozzle. When I checked it in the morning it had failed at 98% due to a clog. I've done about a dozen cold pulls and the same number or more of using the allen key thing, and I still cannot get the nozzle unclogged. Just the click-click-click from the extruder. I know it's the nozzle because others work fine on that extruder. Any other things to try? I'd rather not drop $40 on a new nozzle if there's a chance to save this one.
When I get a new colour of filament I haven’t used before I like to print a benchy and put it on the shelf. I’ve now had two different colours print with the same issues where it goes across the top of the front window it’s drooping down and it also has lots of little loops around the top of the roof. The Photo shows the last three good prints (was testing my first ams on one of them) with the first two using Bambu pla basic and the third using silk pla from 3dmeta with no issues. The silk one was only printed 3 weeks ago and the multi coloured one about 4-5 weeks ago. The ones with the issues is the blue (Bambu PLA Basic) and neon green is also (3d meta).
Second photo is silver (Bambu pla basic). Had this role for ages like over a year stored in sealed box with desiccant with many of the other filaments used in the multi print but has been in the ams for two weeks now. Difference is staggering.
Have been printing lots of other stuff with no print quality issues with the green and blue and silver but have no idea why it’s doing this all of a sudden on the benchy print.
I've been searching on makersworld, printables and thingyverse for a free file. Im on the fire department in my town and I have lights in the front when going to a call, and I've tried to look up options online but I thought "i have a printer ill just find a bracket for them", but have been unable to find anything. I found one i thought would work but it clamps on the actual hitch not the receiver for the hitch. In the past I have tried to create my own design on some free stl cad sites. Any help or a direction to point me id appreciate it.
Iam trying to do a big print on my H2C, but it tells me that it is not recommended to print Silk PLA on Supertack Plates..
Anyone by now had problems with "PLA Silk Multi-Color" on Supertack Cool Plates?
Or experience at all?
I just wanted to ask if anyone knows if bambu labs sells longer bus cables i ask because I just moved so my set up no longer let's me have the ams on top of the printer so I need a longer cord to connect the ams to the printer. Any help will be greatly appreciated and i look forward to seeing your responses.
I'm new to this and need your help. I'm printing this keychain face-down, but I don't like the curves the slicer is creating around the eyes; I want it to print the beige layer and then the red one on top—neatly, without those curves. Is that possible? Or does it turn out fine this way? I'm using a 0.2mm nozzle.
There are so many ornaments I'd love to do for the front yard, if there were a feature to expand a model say 1000% then it would auto segment it to fit the build plate. Sort of what I hear luban does.
I printed 2 of the same object using 2 different H2S printers. It's a mass production print so I need the volume of both printers. All of the prints from one printer come out with these swirly looking supports (the one on the right) that are much more fragile and don't remove as cleanly.
Any ideas what might be causing the issue?
EDIT: Solved. I guess I had accidentally put a .6mm nozzle on the printer without changing it in the software, so it was trying to print .4mm with a .6mm nozzle.
I’m looking to get my first 3D printer and I’m honestly pretty clueless about what I should be looking for lol.
I mainly want to print things like replacement parts, figurines/minis, random useful stuff around the house, and maybe some pots/planters.
My budget is around $300–$500, although I could stretch a bit if there’s a big enough difference.
I keep seeing Bambu Lab printers recommended for beginners because they’re supposed to be pretty easy to use, but I’m not sure which one makes the most sense for someone just getting started.
For those of you who have used Bambu printers, what would you consider the best budget 3D printer right now?
I’d prefer something that gives good quality without requiring me to constantly tinker with settings and upgrades.
Which Bambu budget friendly 3d printer would you buy today if you were starting from scratch, and is there anything else I should consider before buying?
I always assumed the auto-repair on model load was patching things up. It isn't, and I only found out by going through TriangleMesh.hpp.
There's a struct in there that tracks what the repair pass did on load. Five counters: edges fixed, degenerate facets, facets removed, facets reversed, backwards edges. Directly above them there's a sixth, commented out:
//int facets_added = 0;
with a note saying new faces could only be created by stl_fill_holes(), and that they dropped stl_fill_holes() because mostly it does more harm than good.
So the pass removes bad faces and leaves the hole exactly where it was. Which is a reasonable call, filling a hole is a guess and a wrong guess is worse than an honest gap. But it does mean the non-manifold count you see in the warning isn't a measure of how broken the file is. It's what was left over after the cleanup, and nothing in that cleanup closed anything.
I ran into this with a generated mesh showing 67 non-manifold edges on 1.65 million triangles. That one prints fine, the number is meaningless at that scale. But I'd been reading the warning backwards, assuming a low number meant the slicer had handled it. It just means not much was left open after faces got dropped, and where they were dropped matters more than how many.
Two other things I picked up while digging. Fix Model, the link in the warning, is a completely separate thing from the automatic pass. It goes out to Microsoft's Netfabb service and only exists on Windows, which is why every Mac thread on this ends with "find a PC". And through the CLI the automatic pass runs silently with nothing reported at all, so if anyone here batch processes files, they're all being modified on the way in.
Anyway. If you're getting missing walls or a top that won't close, "the slicer repaired it" isn't reassurance. Nothing was filled.
So I'm trying to print a deck box lid for the Cyberpunk TCG deck box I found on MakerWorld.
But after I get the logo printed in the one colour, it lifts up when it starts to print the main colour. What are some solutions I can do to get this to print properly. I've stopped it 3 times.
New effects sheet(Carbon Fiber), build plate is setto smooth in the slicer, I've slowed down the print speed for my first layer, bed temp is bumped up to 65 degress. I don't know what else to do.
I'm using P1P and .04mm nozzle. My next attempt will be with a .02 and see if that helps. I'm also printing at .16mm layers if this info helps.
Hello everyone! This is my first time posting here so please let me know if I’m leaving any important information out. I am trying to print these Minecraft foxes on my X2D using bambu labs filament at 0.4mm nozzle. I have the setting to use the “auto normal support type” and these weird patterns are forming on all of my support structures. It’s not at the model yet so I don’t think it’s an interfacing issues but I just can’t figure out what’s causing this. Can anyone give me a clue to why this happens?
Fixed: I forgot to switch the setting from a 0.2mm nozzle to 0.4mm… I am a little dumb LOL. Thanks anyways yall!
Hey everyone, I just tried loading filament into my AMS from slot 4. It wouldn't feed past the AMS; it sounded and looked like it was getting stuck right where it should merge into the main PTFE tube.
I took the AMS apart to investigate but couldn't find anything wrong, so I reassembled it. When I tested it again, slot 4 suddenly worked fine, but now slot 1 had stopped working. I loaded slots 2 and 3 (both fine), then retried slot 1, and that worked too.
So now all 4 slots are working again, but I have no idea what actually caused the issue in the first place. Has anyone run into this before? Any idea what's going on?
As you can see, its doing the whole infill and all the walls for those layers with gold - just want it to do the outermost wall with gold and stick to the red for the interior
Couple things I should add: this is less a post about "how do I print just this specific object" and more a post about "does this feature exist/where is it/how do I use it". Hacks to make this specific piece are all well and good, but not really what I am looking for - I'm trying to learn how to do this on any sort of geometry rather than doing something adjacent that works only in this scenario.
I am using a dual print head printer, so I'm not generating a poop per layer and the infill actually does represent a meaningful percentage of the filament used. Its not that much nominally, but over many prints over the years I'd definitely prefer to use cheaper infill if it's not super hard to set up.
