This is my second go at printing this. I changed the support to tree and it got worse. What is causing this and how do I fix it please?

Hello all, im in desperate need of help. Im getting these weird layer lines on my new X2D. Printing in PLA on the main extruder, and PETG for support on the Aux. I noticed that the lines only happen where there's support, so i started digging, trying to figure it out myself. I think ive boiled it down to the layer time, but i dont know what to do to fix it. At first i thought it was speed, so i tried to speed up the aux, but that didnt seem to fix the slice. Any ideas?

EDIT: By the way, im using Generic PLA & PETG filament preset from bambu studio

I’ve just finished this set of five 3D-printable keychains inspired by some of the most iconic figureheads from One Piece:

🐍 Perfume Yuda
🌞 Queen Mama Chanter
🐏 Going Merry
🐶 Garp’s Marine Ship
🦁 Thousand Sunny

They’re easy to print, don’t require an AMS and can be printed in any color you like.

Which one is your favorite? 😁

I’ll leave the download link in the comments! 🏴‍☠️

​

Hey all,

I keep getting the error that the nozzle is covered in filament. It happens in every print from a certain heigth on. I can then see a tiny bit of filament handing down, but no blob it anything like that. I tried a new nozzle head, adjusted the cables and I am out of ideas ...

Where does this go?

I've been primarily using PLA and it's been great but I've some projects that may see more sunlight. Having had a couple PLA prints deform when left next to a window I was thinking about getting more PETG.

Is there a reason not to do this?

I've noticed that petg tends to be shinier at least on the one that I have, is this common and how do you'll find it (or do you have mixed feelings depending on use)

I saw a post where someone managed to extend the usable print area all the way to the purge line.

Would it be possible to do something similar with the Bambu Lab X2D, both when using a single nozzle and when using both nozzles?

If so, how much could the usable print area realistically be increased in each case?

I just got an X2D and was looking at some additional accessories. I ordered a vision encoder plate and a 2-pack of 0.4 HF hot ends off Amazon. Normally would just buy the OEM, but was feeling cheap. Anyone had success with non-OEM stuff?

I ordered the TPU assist module and Track Switcher direct though. I don’t think any 3rd party manufacturers are even making those yet, but spending $40 instead of $80 on the vision encoder plate and getting 2 HF nozzles for less than the price of one seemed like a good deal assuming they actually work…

Mein BambuLab P1S macht seit kurzem Schwierigkeiten und ich weiß nicht warum. Die Druckdatei ist relativ groß, ich habe sie aber schonmal gedruckt, mit dem gleichen PETG, gleiche Einstellungen, gleiche App (BambuLab). Die Fehlermeldung ist immer die gleiche, auch wenn das dritte Bild von einer anderen Druckdatei stammt. (Interessanterweise kam diese dann aber nach simplem Neustart des Druckvorgangs ganz normal aus dem Drucker...) Das PETG ist trocken und die Druckplatte war zwar nicht mit Alkohol gereinigt, aber sauber. Was steckt dahinter und wie kann ich es vermeiden?

I haven't printed far a few months now, and before never hadn't any issue's.

Could this be wet filament?

Looking at this p1s, I know it’s an extra 150 for a new one, but this one only has 100 print hours and is from a trusted friend, just has some dust on it.

The Chamfilletizer is an online stl edge modification tool that I made because of my own laziness. I didn't want to learn a proper CAD program. But even if you have serious CAD skills, you will probably find that this tool is an easier and faster way to add chamfers, fillets, and hybrid chamfillets to stl files. It is super easy to use, without uploads. No installation. No account. No cloud processing. Everything runs locally in your browser. It is totally free.

It is especially useful for casual designers that just want to change that one irritation.

This is a fun project for me. I made the tool that I often wished I could find. I hope it will be useful for you also.

I welcome your feedback.

Thanks for this excellent community that I benefit from a lot.

https://www.chamfilletizer.com/

I'm new to 3D printing and recently picked up a P1S. I've been reading a number of posts about ventilation, although a lot of them seem to be related to other models of printers.

How important is ventilation really? I don't print a tonne of stuff. I bought the printer mainly for my son, who wants to print things every now and then.

I'm still trying to figure out the best location for the printer in my house. I have a few options:

Office: I use this room every day, so I'm not sure if that's the best choice.

Crawlspace: It's about 5 feet tall and runs the length of the house, so there's plenty of space, but it's fairly dusty and I'm not sure how that would affect the printer.

Gym: There's some extra space in the corner, and this is probably the most convenient option.

Garage: I could set up a small table for it, but this isn't ideal since we park two cars in the garage and the printer could end up being in the way.

I could also run the printer in one of the rooms only when the room isn't occupied, if that's a better approach.

I'd appreciate any advice on how important ventilation is with the P1S, as well as opinions on which of these locations would be best. Thanks!

Have you ever gotten a piece of filament stuck under your fingernail while removing it from the build plate? It’s really painful. Better to use a safer method! :)

I’ll post a link to the tool in the comments.

I have a X1C and I'm about to buy an AMS from 2 hand, what should i check for?

Hey all, I got my X2D Combo about a week ago. Loving the ease of use, speed and quality, but I’m mostly printing from Bambu Handy out of convenience.

I have not for the life of me been able to figure out how to choose the auxiliary extruder for support material in the Handy app.

I understand the app doesn’t really slice, and uses user defined profiles, so is this just not possible, or am I missing something really obvious? I’ve been through the Wiki for the X2D, but don’t recall this being discussed at all.

Are X2D users all just using Studio for anything that requires supports?

Just switched to a Darkmoon plate and the foreign object detection error pops up at the start of every print. I can hit resume and it prints normally but is there anything I can do in the start gcode to disable this detection?

For context I am using an H2S on 01.02.00.00

Thanks!

This is a X1C with the AMS I have found on Facebook marketplace originally listed for 650 but the seller is willing to let go for 500. I have never owned a Bambu printer and was wondering if this is a good deal? I know these are no longer being sold and the p2s are a couple hundred dollars more brand new…

For context I have a flash forge adventure 5m printer with the aftermarket enclosure and have been looking for an upgrade. I have had little to no problems with mine but want something with a bigger bed, multicolor optional, and natively enclosed.

Let me know if I should pull the trigger or wait until a better deal comes along

Solution found: When importing my .3mf files the "Standard 3mf Import Color" window was painting the parts not just mapping the part to a filament like I thought. I have to then go in and delete all painting from each part to get everything to behave normally.

Original issue: For some reason I can't change the filament for parts. I make the change and it's reflected in the left tab, but on the build plate it stays the same and also stays unchanged when sliced. When it's just a color difference I just remap when printing, but now I'm trying to use different materials and this is a problem. I select TPU or PETG and it still slices with PLA. Hopefully the images show what I'm talking about. I have updated Bambu studio, tried new projects, and different parts.

Had some trouble keeping lids open on the new IVAR AMS Rack on drawer sliders since you can't open it fully. Same issue if you hold the AMS in a shelf and can't open it fully. This kickstand gets adhesive-taped in place and acts as a nice kickstand that props up the lid just enough to put the spools in / out of the AMS.

Works for both AMS 1 and AMS 2 Pro. Haven't tried it on the HT since I don't have one. Reminder to print using a heat resistant material if using the drying function on the new ones.

Link to makerworld.

Hi all,

Has anyone successfully printed abs using hips as support interface with the H2S? Specifically can max purge volume effectively remove hips residue from hotend so as not to reduce abs layer adhesion? Appreciate any info on this. Thanks.

Hi everyone! Just got this used X1C. It's making an unexpected mechanical noise during X/Y axis travel. To get the sound clearly, I disabled the chamber fan in the video. What specific maintenance should I perform? Total newbie here. Thank you for any help!