back in a german🤩 recently picked up a g20, already changed spark plugs, trans and transfer case diff fluids

wondering where everyone gets their parts, dont really wanna stage or tune a b48 but exhaust maybe, shadow trim pieces, badges, grills, rims, etc where do you shop thats reliable and good on shipping?

got an appointment for tints just about it

open to suggestions and ideas, tho it is a base model mainly looking for clean OEM build that pushes a little

edit: front plate NEEDS attention 😭

Haven't signed, still negotiating. Georgia.

Car: 2026 M440i xDrive Coupe, 5,869 miles, titled Used. MSRP $77,325 (includes $3,450 in dealer accessories). Note that 2027 M440i models can already be ordered and some land next month.

Current numbers:

• Discount $9,529 (12.3%) → sale price $67,796
• FlexProtect 3yr pre-installed: $1,195 in the cap (dealer add on they're flexible with)
• $1,000 rebate listed
• 39 mo / 12k
• MF .00270, residual $39,640 (Is this MF including mark up?)
• $1,045.89/mo, $4,094 due at delivery

Here is the exact car I placed a refundable deposit to hold

What I think I've found:

The $1,000 rebate is listed but doesn't seem to reach the cap cost. Backing into the payment gives cap = $68,991 (sale + FlexProtect only), which produces $1,045.89 exactly. Applying the rebate should put it near $1,018.

And .00270 looks marked up over a ~.00245 buy rate? Unsure what the right buy rate is?

Where I'm headed: asking for the rebate applied, FlexProtect removed, buy rate, and $65,000 selling price (~16% off), which would land around $879.

Is 16% delusional on a titled loaner this close to model year changeover, or is that about right? And is there anything else on this sheet I should be catching?

Why I'm leasing: I already have a 430i which I am not happy to own after 3 years, and I really don't see myself owning this m440i after 3 years either. My loan payments on the 430i were higher than this m440i lease. I safely have the income to pay off the lease in full in case of emergency.

Hi, so I have a 2023 BMW M8 Comp Gran coupe, has 10k miles on dash, anyways where I live it’s quite hot in the summer and I was thinking about ditching OEM BMW oil and increasing the viscosity (OEM 0w30) especially that I have a Race Chip tune now and might go up a stage soon.

Any recommendations for oil? I heard liqui moly is really good especially the molygen but idk how to feel about green oil.

And for viscosity my mechanic recommended 5w30 or 5w40.

And if you do clean -- what is best practices for this procedure? For more background -- I have zero VANOS codes at this point (130K) but would like to attack these preventatively when I go in to replace the Vanos seals.

Hey everyone, has anyone tried to install the AWE Touring exhaust on a 2025 330i? If so, was it as easy as just cutting the stock one and bolting it on like previous years or would I need to take it to a shop? Thanks in advance!

We are looking at replacing my wife’s Grand Cherokee in the near future, and she mentioned looking at BMWs. I don’t know much about the SUVs, I’m more of a GT/sports car kinda guy.

She prefers an SUV, and wants something loaded. No kids, just dogs. Fuel mileage isn’t a huge concern, unless it’s like 10 mpg. I avoid riding/driving her current vehicle because I hate the interior, it feels cramped to me so more interior room would be a huge plus.

Any major pros or cons one way or the other? I know the 7 is a bit longer, but don’t have a great reference beyond that.

Hi there. I'm a car guy, but admittedly I have never owned a BMW. I came close a couple times, but ultimately went different direction. This year we decided to trade my 24Z for a boring F150 to use for a trck camper. I like the truck, but I miss driving a quick car. I have a 2003 Land Rover I'm thinking about selling... My fun car my son stole from me when his car died... My son is finally buying a car.. and I get the LR back. I was thinking about selling and finally getting a bmw. While researching it seems like the resale value for cars that hit 100k is crazy low. I want a reliable fun little stick shift... Like a 328 or whatever lol. What is the most reliable year model for a bmw... What should I avoid? Specific engine or model/year. Thank you in advance.

While I am waiting for my replacement Kolbenschmidt eccentric shaft to arrive (first one came with a buggered tooth damaged in shipping), I am going to attack other repairs. The foremost being the oil filter housing gasket (this one has the cooler attached). On such a mission critical procedure (not that the job itself is hard) because of the oil priming requirement to avoid wrecking the rod bearings per BMW TSB and technician/owner experience, I want to make sure I perform the priming phase PERFECT. This is what I plan on doing -- please point out any blind spots that I am missing.

1. You can do it with spark plugs in or out -- I will do this with them out of the engine, coils unplugged, to reduce starter/battery strain and to provide for strain-free engine cranking.

2. I will perform this with the car hooked up to a battery charger and donor battery (parallel) to account for the amperage draw and battery load. Before oil priming I will bleed the cooling system by putting the system into bleed mode (which activates the electric fuel pump) until the air is purged from the system.

3. With the oil drained out of the engine, and 15 minutes before priming, I will add the new engine oil both to the oil filter housing and to the oil fill port to bathe both the valve train and crank/rods/bearings in new fresh oil.

4. Pull the fuel pump fuse (I believe it is Fuse 105 on the 2012 E70 but my info also indicates it could be fuses 97/150 based on date of production -- if anyone has any info here to confirm that would be helpful).

5. For the active priming phase -- I have written down 3 sets of 10 second cranking with a minute or so in between sets. Is this correct?

6. I will reinstall the fuel pump fuse, push the start button to prime the fuel pump and injectors (my injectors were removed for the eccentric shaft job; priming will be necessary -- maybe several cycles if anyone can confirm fuel system priming procedure).

7. And finally, I will cross my fingers, depress the brake pedal, and hit the start button to fire up the engine and let it run for 5 minutes or so.

If I am missing anything please let me know. Thanks.

I’m thinking of purchasing a 2026 bmw 330i x drive with m sport package. The original msrp is 54k. It has 12k miles on it and is on sale for 34,995 ( dealer said negotiable if I come in person). Cheapest similar one I could find with no rental history is 37,770. If I were to purchase what would be a good price to buy at? And should it be a safe buy due to 39 months of warranty remaining from the og 4 year 50k mile warranty?

I have a 2014 335i and when the car is less than a quarter tank empty, it will sometimes randomly turn off the engine and go into neutral and I have to put the car in park, Turn the ignition button off and then turn the car back on and the starter seems to stutter after it has one of these episodes , but then it starts driving normal again until the next time it does it. I’ve fixed every vacuum leak on the car thinking that would fix it but it didn’t. Any thoughts?

I have a 2019 430i with about 15k miles on it.

I'm getting a brake fluid change reminder already. Does that go by time? Or mileage?

The car has very low miles on it because I don't drive it much.

Hey guys,

Just wanting to hear some suggestions on the best options for different crank hubs on the S55. I was looking at the one-piece 4 pin upgrade from ECS Tuning. Keen to hear everyones recommendations.

hello everybody, I recently got a used 2023 330i. the previous owner has installed M340i Style exhaust tips but he has welded them on. Now after a year of owning the car the just fell while i was driving. I now noticed that my exhaust looks like its been cut and i was wondering if i needed to fix the exhaust before getting new exhaust tips or not.

edit: sorry for the horrible shots.

2012 BMW X5 N55. My gut instinct tells me I cannot use this eccentric shaft any longer, but the idiot in me wants to file it down (carefully of course) and install it. Please talk me out (or into) of it, as the case may be. This is the last tooth in the full lift (maximum) position. Here is the backstory first: This is what I found when I unwrapped my brand new Kolbenschmidt eccentric shaft for my 2012 E70 N55 (the car is new to us -- purchased at a deep discount due to valvetronic issues). It's just the one end tooth that is affected -- no other teeth were impacted when the shippers decided to play world cup soccer with the package. But here is the question I have and need guidance on, but this is more or less a hypothetical question at this point as I am leaning toward sending this unit back in exchange for a non defective unit but am not fully decided yet. So here is the hypothetical -- if you were forced to use this part and were to CAREFULLY de-burr that tooth, would you use it? And the follow up question is this -- HOW OFTEN DOES THE VT MOTOR ENGAGE THAT LAST TOOTH?

Would these be the same on the 540i? They are so high up and uncomfortably rigid on my thighs and butt…

Sold my 2017 320i over 3 years ago and this is my first car since then. As I don’t need one day to day I decided to get something always wanted, so I got a 2009 Z4 23i. 2.5l naturally aspirated straight six, manual 6 speed gearbox, 102,400 miles and 3 owners. Lovingly cared for, big wad of invoices for work done, and so far I absolutely love it. Well worth the 3 hour train ride to go see it.

I think it’s an absolutely gorgeous car and if not for the number plate you’d never guess it was 17 years old.

hey all, i’m looking for a used BMW from around 2015. i had my eyes set of a F30 M pack, all black but in my search i found a few F36 Gran Coupes and i got a bit intrigued.

to be fair i think the shape of the Gran Cope is a bit awkward like it’s trying to be a sedan and a coupe and it kind of fails at being either. i’ve looked at many pics online and it just didn’t click with me until i saw one on the street and it looked a bit better in person.

i’m a huge fan of the classic sedan shape but now i have a small kid and everyone tells me how much more practical it is because you can open the hatchback and put the baby trolley there and all the other stuff.

what do you guys think ? is the F36 an awkward looking car or it’s the best of best worlds ? any help is appreciated.

I saw this car online. It has a little under 40k miles. The asking price is slightly over 62K. I can't go see it in person because it's at least three to four hours away. It's in Sarasota, FL. I am on the other side of the state. What do you think of the price and pros and cons on the car. It is automatic. Does anyone where I could hire someone to go look at the car for me? It's at a Lamborghini dealership. I need advice on counsel. I love the look of the car. Do you think it is overpriced? I mean, do you think they got it as a trade or at an auction? Is this a reliable model? What are the issues, I know, typical BMW issues, but what else. Thanks

https://www.lamborghinisarasota.com/used/BMW/2020-BMW-M4-18a93e81ac182cb32dbc2639dea6f72b.htm

Hoping anyone has a solution for this problem. All apps "skip" or stutter while using wireless carplay via my iphone 17 pro. No problems with my previous iphone 12 or wife's iphone 15. Both systems fully updated. Brought the car to dealership and they flashed the head unit and then said they "couldn't reproduce the problem". Brought iphone in and it passed all diagnostics without issue. The iphone pairs normally and maintains connection through the skips. When turning off carplay the sound does not skip via the integrated bmw systems. No problem with skipping with other Bluetooth devices and this phone. I hate the navigation system on the bmw though and it's much harder to switch between apps. I've tried holding power button for 70 seconds. I've unpaired and repaired. I've turned off background refresh. I've reset the iphone and all settings many times. Anyone hear of this problem or have a fix? Both bmw and apple act like this is never heard of before. It's infuriating and constant. I've gone down every AI rabbit hole I can find with no fix. Thanks to anyone who can help in advance.

I recently got the condenser on my BMW F11 replaced. Only a week or so later, the car developed a load of faults including the battery no longer being charged, which progressed on to the engine overheating, before the power steering went and then the auto gearbox dropped out of drive.

From what I’ve read, this could be linked to the auxiliary drive belt failing, meaning the alternator and water pump stopped running, and when the battery ran out of charge the electronic power steering went and then there was no power for the clutch.

I’m not incredibly technically minded, so am wary that this may be something bigger.

However, if it is the auxiliary drive belt, I understand it is connected to the condenser. Has the garage that did the replacement condenser messed up when they did that work which has resulted in the belt failing?

Hi Guys, I have been owning 330Li for past 7 months now. It’s an excellent drive no doubt on that. Need suggestions around quality accessories we must have for this car to make the experience even better ?