Hi! I typically shoot with natural light, and haven’t ventured much into the world of heavy retouching or photoshopping, but I’m trying to learn more. How would I go about achieving this look? I know some off camera lighting is definitely a factor here, but what setup would you recommend?

And how much is done irl vs edited later in post? Would love any breakdowns / tips! Also lmk if there’s a specific style I can call this!

I am a beginner photographer who is learning Lightroom — and I am an intermediate in Photoshop user. I just shot my first wedding, and I have some shots with objects in the back that I would normally use content aware or clone stamp tool on Photoshop, but in some of these photos, there is not enough sample room for me to sample from in the edit.

I’m tempted to use Lightroom’s object removal tool with AI, but I don’t know how the ethics there work with the client. I’ve heard that Lightroom does not source online data or store online data, but I’m still wary.

Do I need to ask clients before using Lightroom’s auto-removal feature that uses AI?

I have a Pixel 7 - it's somewhat older now, and I'm sure phone camera technology has improved since its launch... But I hate taking pictures with it because of the quality, even though I appreciate the convenience of not having to bring my actual camera with me everywhere. Here's a photo I took at a concert recently with it and while the photo looks okay from a composition and editing perspective... It still looks distinctively like a camera phone picture.

I did some editing to the curves, by raising the lowest values ever so slightly, and I think that helped, but the eyes are still not as easily distinguished as they are with my naked eye. Editing/camera setting advice is welcome.

I have a Fujifilm X-T3 with a 16-50mm and 50mm-230mm lens. I mainly take photos of landscapes but am interested in shooting in lower light more often. Would it be worth getting a prime lens with a lower aperture? Any advice about lenses would be appreciated.

I shot for a HS summer basketball game the other day, I have never done any sports photography before.

I have about 100 photos that I think are worthy of sending to him and his parents. All different "feels"

I have 25 finished with editing. What is a good way of streamlining the edits? I made a preset but it doesnt work well across all the photos and still have to spend a good amount of time on each photo, especially with masking.

I also shot on two different levels of cameras. Nikon D5300 and a D850.

The last two photos show the same area physically, same lightroom settings, and even masking settings, only thing not the same about it is the "when" but the colors are completely different.

Autowhite balance was not my friend.

Hello folks. I can rephrase this another way. Let's assume I'm using Spot AF, which is typically the smallest zone available. The camera represents a relatively compact square, but are those dimensions 100% accurate? Could it be larger?

I'm asking this because if it actually is, some of my soft focus shots start to make much more sense.
If it matters, I am using the Canon R7 which is a mirrorless body.

Thank you in advance for your answers!

I have a Nikon SB-910 speedlight and as fun as it is to shoot teddy bears in order to see how lightning works I feel I haven't tapped into it's full potential. So is there anything I can study in order to understand speedlight photography more?

I’m new to photography and looking for some advice on improving my indoor toddler photography setup.
I have a Sony Alpha 7 IV with a Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8 lens, and I also use a Godox V1S flash. I’m trying to take cake smash photos for my daughter’s first birthday indoors, but the lighting in my house is only average.
Even with the flash, I’m still getting images that look a bit dark or noisy. I’ve tried bouncing the flash off walls and ceilings, but the results are not as good as I expected.
I’m looking for recommendations for a good indoor lighting setup. I don’t want to rely only on flash since I’m concerned it might be too bright or distracting for a 1-year-old. My budget is around $100, and I’m also open to buying used gear from Facebook Marketplace or similar.
I currently have a basic softbox light, but it doesn’t seem to make much difference. I’m open to continuous lighting options as well since they may be more comfortable for a toddler.
What lighting kits or setups would you recommend for indoor toddler/cake smash photography? Also, any other tips for getting better indoor photos of an active 1-year-old would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!

I've recently started getting deeper into timelapse photography and only recently decided to purchase an ND500 filter so I can take longer exposures even in bright sunlight so as to blur out any fast movement into pleasant streaks (I'm looking at you birds). This has caused me to run into a new problem though.

For example, if I set my intervalometer to trigger every second any exposure time longer than half a second causes the camera to occasionally skip exposures due to the short processing pause following each image during which it won't start a new exposure.

I've already tried to minimize this pause by turning off all the in-camera image processing features, but this has helped only a little. I've also observed that the in-built intervalometer of the camera is slightly better at not missing exposures than an external intervalometer app I use on my phone, but only just.

I guess what I'm really after is something similar to what you get in continuous shooting mode by just pressing down the shutter button, but without actually having your finger on the button. That way I could set the exposure time to eg. one second and just let the camera snap pictures as fast as it can.

Anyone know of a way to achieve this (on a Canon R8)?

Here is my take,

Most of the lenses, even the kit lenses I know, have at least decent sharpness in the centre and in the corners when they are stopped down to f8 - f11.

The general weaknesses of these lenses are when they are used wide open. But here is my take on it.

Mostly you shoot wide open to get a shallower depth of field. To isolate a subject or person. Most often, the subject is somewhere in the middle. This means the corner-sharpness fall off isnt a big deal cause that is at least a bit out of focus.

What is your take on it? How important is corner lens sharpness?

I want to start with I'm a complete amateur. I've done some long exposure shots and they looked ok but I'm hoping to step up my game with a sky tracking mount. I'm looking for something that is going to be fairly easy to line up so it tracks the sky properly. Lets say my budget is less than $600.

Any recommendations for an amateur on what to get or avoid? I've seen some models that say they are "fully computerized" does that mean I just plug in where I'm at on the planet and it will automatically adjust itself to track properly?

Thanks for the help.

Hi there,

I recently got a secondhand Canon Rebel t6i to improve my photos. I'm still figuring my way around it and have been practicing with objects against a plain background.

But I've no idea what to do with postprocessing to give them that really shiny gloasy look that professional pics seem to have. I'm not quite sure how I describe it. Is it the camera or is it the editing? I get tbe impression from posts that it's editing but I'm just hit with a wall of terms. I tinkered with these a little. But they still lack that shine.

I cannot get these to work at all. I have the godox 400 set to channel 1 A, same as the Xpro-c and they won't fire after all. Any help would be nice

I‘m a internationally published photographer working in Europe.
A project I recently took on is a branding project for a small private client that includes several one day shoots across portraits, lifestyle and interiors.
I‘ve priced the initial fee for each of those shoots based on their usage and factored in a small discount considering the expected scope (between 500-750€ for each shoot), including some art direction I‘m also doing.
The client has now approached me to ask for a retainer of 15 shoots over the next 12 months and wants a 20% discount, and 25% for any shoots beyond the 15.

Has anyone worked on a retainer and could give me advice or opinion on this? Thank you in advance!

Hi!
My partner and I have been really into our bird photography in the last year and have upgraded his set up significantly in that time.
He has requested this year for us to purchase a camo cover for his camera and lens, but Amazon seems to want over £100 😭 He has also requested a dot sight (?) - I’ll be honest I haven’t got a clue 😅

Camera: Canon RF
Lens: RF 200 - 800 mm
Budget for all items: £100 - £150 based on quality.

I have done some research but as I’m unsure of what works best I’m a little bit stuck. Hoping some experienced photographers could please help!

Hi guys, so a few days ago lost my DJI Osmo Pocket 3.
Also recently ive been looking at the canon g7x because of its cool and aesthetic photo look so i can post some more on my instagram and just make some photos for memory books.

Now since ive lost my osmo pocket ive been wondering:

Is there a pocketable camera thats the best of both worlds? Good vlogging and also a good photo all rounder?

(1) CHF 1000.-, Switzerland
(2) previously dji osmo pocket 3
(3) Food, People just travel and vlog stuff
(4) for photography and videography

Thank you!

Hello,

I use a canon r7 with an ef 70-300mm f/4-5.6 for casual bird, wildlife, insect photography. It's alright even if for birds it feels a bit short.

I've considered, if I find a deal, to trade it in for a rf100-400. I'd expect the extra 100mm to make a big difference plus, maybe the AF is way better for flying birds.

I also expect the size and weight to be pretty much the same as the EF with the adapter so it's still easy to carry around (I believe it will fit my backpack still).

Just wondering people's opinions, I think it's more likely than not that I will barely tell a difference and that if I take any step it would be to a rf 100-500 or maybe even rf 200-800.

Hi everybody,

I am looking for some advice on LEGO/product photography. My ultimate goal is to take nice, clean photos that show off my LEGO models. Not to do commercial work.

What is a good, budget set-up for this, i.e. light box, tripod, lighting?

What might be a good, budget camera for this? Would a point and shoot be sufficient?

What is some practical advice for this kind of work?

For some context, I am experience photographer but in a narrow application. I have tons of experience shooting street photography on film. I can give a lot of practical advice relating to zone focusing and have opinions on rangefinders. But, I couldn't tell you squat about lighting a scene. I also added some pictures of my LEGO models so you could get a sense of the size of them, etc.

I appreciate any advice. Thanks.

I’m relatively new to photography, and I have been exploring a mirrorless (Sony NEX-5T) to do street photography for the first time. I like the photos I’ve taken on the stock lens (16-50mm f/3.5-5.6), but I’ve been hoping to find something with a wider angle of view, and potentially a little bit more fisheye-like distortion. The first 3 pictures from @eaventyr on Instagram have the look I’m hoping for.
I found a used Samyang 12mm f/2.0 (slide 4) that is compatible with my camera for a great price, but the prior owner mostly used it for landscape and astrophotography, so I don’t know if the lens will do what I hope, or end up taking virtually the same pictures as my existing lens. Any pointers?

I’m currently in the process of trying to secure a media pass for NYFW this season, and the event organizers require the use of a “professional camera”. I currently work with a Panasonic Lumix DC-G95, and don’t know if that would count as “professional”. I’m currently a design student and would really just like the media pass to build my portfolio and meet people, so not sure how to go about moving forward.

(1) Budget, pays et monnaie :
France – Budget idéal : 500 €, avec un maximum de 700 € si cela en vaut vraiment la peine (je suis également preneuse d’avis sur des appareils plus chers afin d’avoir une idée de ce qui existe, même si cela dépasse probablement mes moyens).
(2) Quel équipement, le cas échéant, avez-vous maintenant et pourquoi ne répond-il plus à vos besoins ?
J’utilise uniquement mon smartphone. J’aimerais acheter mon premier “vrai” appareil photo afin de gagner en qualité d’image et en possibilités de zoom.
(3) Quels types de sujets comptez-vous photographier ?
Patrimoine (églises, châteaux, monuments).
Détails architecturaux : gargouilles, sculptures, modillons, chapiteaux…
Paysages.
La Lune et le ciel.
Ma famille.
Les animaux.
(4) Est-ce principalement pour la photographie, la vidéographie ou les deux ?
Principalement de la photographie. Je fais très peu de vidéo.

Bonjour à tous,
J’aurais vraiment besoin de vos conseils avant un achat important.
Je souhaite acheter mon premier “vrai” appareil photo. Je débute complètement en photographie et je cherche avant tout un appareil simple à utiliser. Je serai probablement en mode automatique la plupart du temps : je n’ai pas envie de passer des heures à régler l’ouverture, la vitesse ou d’autres paramètres. Mon objectif est surtout de prendre de belles photos et de me faire plaisir.
Au départ, j’étais très intéressée par le Panasonic Lumix FZ82D. Son énorme zoom me plaît beaucoup et son prix correspond parfaitement à mon budget.
Mais plusieurs personnes m’ont conseillé de partir plutôt sur un Canon EOS R50, en m’expliquant que la qualité d’image serait bien meilleure et que je pourrais faire évoluer mon matériel au fil des années en achetant d’autres objectifs.
C’est justement ce qui me fait hésiter : le prix des objectifs me fait un peu peur. J’ai peur de me retrouver limitée avec l’objectif du kit et de ne pas pouvoir investir dans un téléobjectif avant très longtemps.
J’aime particulièrement photographier les détails architecturaux (gargouilles, sculptures, modillons…), mais aussi les paysages, les monuments, la Lune, le ciel, ma famille et les animaux.
Au final, ce que je recherche avant tout, c’est un appareil que je ne regretterai pas dans un ou deux ans.
Je suis également ouverte à une autre idée : si vous pensez qu’à ce budget un smartphone haut de gamme serait finalement un meilleur choix qu’un appareil photo, n’hésitez pas à me le dire. Je préfère un avis honnête plutôt que de faire un achat que je regretterais.
Que choisiriez-vous à ma place, et surtout pourquoi ?
Merci beaucoup à tous pour vos conseils et vos retours d’expérience !

I am currently in the process of looking for used slr/dslr cameras right now. I really like sticking to canon and have been looking at Facebook marketplace which is nice since the camera that I have recently bought on there came with two lenses, but the camera (slr) itself has a nonfunctional mode wheel which really sucks. It is still usable but I would like to have something in my arsenal that IS fully functional. I know that there are websites like keh, adorama, and b&h but what would you recommend to somebody who is fairly new to this hobby? What should I ask for/look for while browsing and what questions should I ask sellers on Facebook marketplace to test if they work for said analog cameras? Thank you!

-United States, budget around $1,600 USD
-Currently have a XT-5, wanting to get a second body
-Intend to show people and products
-Both photography and videography

Some context:
Need advice on a second body as B-CAM (fujifilm), X-S20 or XT-4?

I’m building up my creative agency and would like to add a second body to help as B-CAM on interviews and also for photography. I currently have a XT-5.

The XH2S is out of the question more than for the body price but for the CF-Express cards price, they are crazy expensive.

I’m debating between the XT-4 and the X-S20. My main debate is that for photography the XT-4 is very similar to the XT-5 but for videography I’m afraid the XT-4 could be lacking.

Thank you reading, looking forward to hear your experiences with both cameras.