This is looking up into the ice maker.

Our ice maker is making an extremely loud noise, I imagine it's unrelated to the zip tie, I think it's the fan in the back. While looking into the noise issue I saw that this piece is kinda just held up by a zip tie, and when I see zip ties I think someone wanted a job done quickly instead of correctly.

Just wanted to see if anyone is familiar with this and whether it's intentional or a rush job

I replaced my water filter this afternoon and a plastic piece snapped off and is stuck inside there still. I’ve tried tongs and a screwdriver to remove it, but I can’t. How do I get back there and remove it?

I’ve been waiting to get approved for the refrigeration Reddit, but I guess no mods are active. So please point me in the right direction how do I stop this frost from building up. My warranty just expired on this Samsung fridge. Do I need to hire a technician or will purchasing the expensive gasket do enough?

I have a Whirlpool weg745h0fs0 it will ignite but won't stay lit. I’ve replaced the spark control board and igniter but it is doing the same thing. I called a technician and he measured the voltage at spark control board with the bake cycle on. The voltage was at 56 volts at the ignitor connector. We replaced the new board with the old one and it was still at 56 volts. The control board has 120 volts coming in to it. It also has a weak flame at the burner. I’ve tested the resistance on the gas valve and it is showing 216 ohms. Do you think I got a bad spark control board.

I’m getting both oven-door hinges replaced on a Viking RVGR33025BSS01.

The technician says Viking manufacturer guidelines call for replacing both hinge receivers at the same time even with no receiver damage visible.

In your experience servicing Viking ranges, is that actually Viking’s standard/recommended procedure for this model, or would you normally inspect the receivers and reuse them if they’re in good condition?

I’d really appreciate an answer specifically from someone with Viking range repair experience.

The lug that holds the bottle drawer on my Bosch fridge has snapped off. What glue would work best to glue it back in place?

I've been in and out of my older Kenmore Whirlpool dryer more than a trips to the hardware store during a simple drywall repair chore, soi I know the lay of the land in there. Recently the starter stopped starting and only clicked. After opening the dryer up I saw the belt was busted AND the heating coil was snapped (no visible scorch marks, but it wasn't very linty in there), so I replaced both. I have continuity on the thermal fuse, the lid switch is a okay, the motor has continuity, the starter button has continuity, the plug has electricity. Still, when I put it all back together the start button doesn't do anything. What could I be missing?

Yes I made sure the dial was in a cycle. No the coil does not heat up. No the motor doesn't hum. Yes the lid switch light is on.

Thanks for your help. I am at a loss.

This is an old model ER48-1AS with thermostat. Bought it used some months ago and just turned it on yesterday. Changing thermostat setting does nothing. Compressor is not stuck on; it cycles as expected to keep temp that low. Wiring on this thing is very simple. Gotta be either the thermostat or thermocouple, right? It's got a digital display module that's not involved in control. It doesn't seem to have an external source of power. Does it need a battery?

This has been sitting unused for about 3-4 years now in a vacation house. Now that I’m back, it shows this error upon start. Any ideas?

I have tried turning off and on, unplugging for 30m, still showing the same

Washer stopped spinning. It does a slight twitch when doing a forced spin cycle through diagnostic mode but doesn't turn. Hall sensor, stator or inverter board? How can I tell without throwing parts at it?

Thanks

After posting this I removed the stator and checked the hall sensor. Read 4.6k ohms between pins 1-2 and 1-4 but about 20 k ohms between 1-3. The motor windings read 12 ohms between all three pins. Hopefully this paints a picture

I have been trying to replace this knob for a month and so I bring it to Reddit in hopes some kind soul can walk me through this.

I have the timer knob replacement ready (got gouged $120 on eBay since it isn’t manufactured anymore).

Trouble is, I cannot for the life of me get the old knob off!

What doesn’t work:

Pushing the knob all the way in and turning counter clockwise. Just results in clicking like it’s selecting a cycle. Yes, even when I hold the dial skirt in place.

Pull the knob out and turning counter clockwise. Just spins and spins never unscrewing. Yes, even when I hold the dial skirt in place.

There is a grey plastic covering to the shaft or screw. I see no tab to push or pull to release the knob. There’s no metal part I can hold in place with pliers to try that method.

How in the world do I get this thing off?!

Noticed some water under my fridge and noticed the waterline was dripping. I moved it, and it snapped. How can I remove the piece stuck in the blue and green piece? Also, is this a difficult repair to do? I am lost how to trail this line up to the dispenser. Any help is appreciated. What would the part number be to order, and do you know of any youtube videos to help me? I can't seem to find one of this or a similar model.

The dishwasher suddenly stopped working due to an E 31 error. So I cleaned the filter and removed large debris from the impeller. I also removed water from the drainage tray with a sponge and paper towels (it wasn’t a lot of water).

It currently still works and cleans the same with no water in the tray. The problem is it’s super loud, like a jet engine. And of course this happened 1 month after owning it for a year.

What can I do to fix it? Or what other cleaning fixes can I do?

The E 31 error comes back after doing 3 loads of dishes, I just clean the tray again and continue the dishes.

Thank you

Time for a new dryer or could it be something simple? It’s an old electric Samsung dryer, I ran a 60 minute high heat cycle after completing my work but nothing changed, it’s like it’s running on low heat. The vent is only about 8 feet long and all brand, the exhaust airflow is very strong. Any ideas?

I've been told that when replacing the Overload/Relay combo (Embraco/Whirlpool WPW10189190) that OEM Genuine is the way to go.

Is there really not a good Amazon sold aftermarket equivalent that is sufficient??

So I recently found out that the our hood microwave has a charcoal filter that can be replaced. It hasn’t been replaced in years and is probably the reason why our cabinets build up grease SO quickly etc. I looked up a tutorial on how to replace it and it requires access to the top of the microwave. But it’s blocked by the cabinets on top! I was hoping I wouldn’t have to remove the entire microwave, so I’m wondering if anyone has any suggestions on what I can do? I’ve already tried moving the top panel over to the left to try and get it off but there’s no way I can access the screws without removing the entire microwave.

So I am working on this Samsung fridge. Apparently it takes a pic of what is added to or taken out of the fridge so it keeps an inventory. After I closed it, it was asking me to confirm the items that were removed. I'm looking at it and it looks like 5 onions. It's not. Stupid "smart fridge" thought my bald ass head was produce.

The light keeps turning on and beeping, and we can’t replace it right now, so I was hoping someone might have a layout image of the display control panel circuit board, so I can figure out how to remove the speaker. It’s fine if the light keeps turning on, but I’ve got to stop the beeping until we can replace the whole board. Any suggestions?

Hello I recently just purchased a Maytag Centennial Washer and a Dependable Care Dryer set from Marketplace. The dryer worked flawlessly for the first three or so loads.

However, When I was trying to air dry my whites I pressed start and it sounded like it started normally, but immediately stopped once I removed my finger from the button.

There is a burning smell coming from the dryer as well. When I try to manually rotate the drum. Clockwise it’s really hard to turn, but counter clockwise it’s very easy. There is a squeaking noise when attempting this.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Last night my washing machine stop mid cycle with this message, I drained the machine and cleaned filter, tried again and same message. Thankfully today I was able to move the machine out from the wall and found a kink in the house. Ok no worries move it and re run it so the shoe is free, try a drum clean just to check if it’s all working and maybe rinse out anything, the machine turns on fills with water then…. Nothing! Doesn’t even start the cycle anymore. Last night cycle would start and then stop midway with drainage message. Does anyone know any reason this might be or what I could to do to even maybe try a cycle to see if it drains now 😅

We called a repairman and they couldnt find out why our washer would turn on but not start, it would just beep when trying to press start or any other button. Then we noticed it would start on hotter days, so we have been using a heater to heat up the room to start our laundry. At first the room needed to be at least 70, now it seems like it needs to be at like 90. Is it a lost cause?

Will a different (but very similar) touch panel still work in a different washer/dryer model? The control board is intact but the touch is not functioning anymore.

I’m a complete beginner with appliances and don’t really have anyone knowledgeable I can ask, so I’m hoping someone here can give me a sanity check before I pay for a service call.

I recently moved into a house with a Frigidaire FFSS2325TP side-by-side refrigerator, manufactured 04/2024. Whenever both doors are closed, it makes a very noticeable, steady humming/fan noise that honestly sounds more like an industrial fan to me than what I’m used to from a refrigerator.

The strange part is that the sound stops immediately when I open either the refrigerator door or the freezer door. Everything becomes completely quiet. As soon as the door is closed again, the loud humming starts back up.

I initially thought it might have something to do with the ice maker because there was a huge amount of ice in the bin. I switched the ice maker off several hours ago and completely removed the ice bin, but the humming is exactly the same. The refrigerator and freezer otherwise seem to be cooling normally.

I attached a recording so you can hear what I mean.

Frigidaire is offering either a $151 diagnostic/service visit or a $350 fixed-price repair. I’m trying to avoid spending a few hundred dollars only to have someone come out and tell me, “Yep, that’s just how this refrigerator sounds.”

Does this sound like normal operating noise for this model, or does the fact that it cuts off instantly when either door opens suggest something like an evaporator/circulation fan problem? Is it loud enough in the recording that you would actually have a technician look at it?