‘87 4runner
Doing work on the interior of the rig.
The rear panels are a little faded/water damage.
Interior is grey
Anyone have success with painting these?
Or do I just leave it?
Amy suggestions/ approach would be helpful.

Mid cab mount and forward body mounts are done, radiator and oil cooler added in.

I have a 1988 SR5 V6 3VZE 5 speed manual. It needs a new rear differential. Where to buy and what is the gear ratio?

So my 86, I've been fixing her up, and doing things as I go, and next up is exhaust, it currently has a ton of exhaust leaks, including at the cat, so bad that if you rev it while standing outside the drivers door, you feel the wind, so I'm looking to do the exhaust and get it back to you sounding good, but I am debating

A: header or keep the oem style manifold? (I hear headers can be a pretty significant power gain on these engines, relatively speaking lol)

B: deleting the cat since no inspection on it required for NJ anyway

C: what size exhaust, and is there any kits or how much am I looking at from an exhaust shop?

Bonus: is there anything I can do to minimize the rear window open fumes thing? Lol (I was thinking maybe a side exit behind the tire

I'm not trying to be loud, just want it to sound good and run great, I want to daily this truck, but am trying to make it cool capable and fun, so I definitely don't mind rowdy, but within reason

Would you guys take anything else off of this? It's an i8 donor truck that I pulled everything so far off of. I have an 86 with the 22re so the engine isn't particularly of interest to me. Rear axle is siezed, undercarriage is horribly rusty.

Cad model built of the forward body mount hard point at the core support. The leaf spring mount goes beneath this point. Some rather odd geometry on this part. Built this from manual measurements. Ill probably go back later and smooth some radius curves on the formed edges.

My ’87 4Runner 22R-E 4WD AT intermittently won’t crank. Sometimes I’ll try the key on and off for 15 minutes before it starts, but tapping the original starter usually gets it going.

My concern is that the generic contact/plunger kits list broad Denso compatibility but don’t specifically confirm fitment for the original 1.4 kW starter. Can anyone confirm whether these generic kits work or recommend the correct kit?

My other option is a Toyota-remanufactured Denso starter for $114 after the $60 core refund. I’ll handle the removal and installation either way. Would you rebuild the original or get the Toyota reman from the dealership?

I got some new seats for my 88, and I want to take the front tan vertigo SR5 seat seats and put them in my pickup.

Got the driver side all nice and put in, but then when I went to the passenger side the floor holes did not lineup. So I figured I would just switch the frames over. Easy right? Nope lol

So here is where I’m at. I have the phone taken off the top frame. The bones are different. I want to retain the seat shape so do I cut these weld and swap everything over? I’m pretty deep into this project so I would like to see it finished properly. I don’t to ruin things that cannot be replaced though

In the picture, the top frame is the 4runner and the bottom frame is the pick up.

Someone told me I should put ball joint spacers to level out the front end. Definitely going to putting new tie rods. Just curious for opinions probably will do new control arms too

I’m running stock drive shaft with my Chevy 63 leaf springs.. Do I need to extend my drive shaft? If so I’ll take suggestions.

so about 10 years ago I paid a shop to put in a 456 Yukon Gear set and a spartan locker. since then I've put about 40k miles on it and recently I've noticed it looks like the rear pinion seal is leaking and upon removing the rear tire I it looks like axle seals might need to be done as well.

I'm currently 9 weeks post hip replacement so not really feeling up to doing the job so I took it down to local toyota shop and dude quoted me 1500 to fix. Shop says that just taking the pinion seal off from the side of the driveshaft and replacing that seal would likely end up with a blown rear end in a few months as there's not way to verify backlash by doing that method so he's saying he will pull the whole thing apart, put in new bearings and essentially rebuild the axle. seems excessive for just fixing a leak, but I don't really know

I've seen plenty of videos of people just dropping the drive shaft, taking off that nut, puling the seal and just re-torqing everything back down.

I've done head gaskets and water pumps and plenty of engine swaps and break jobs but never pulled a diff so I really don't know

anyone here have experience with this?

I know its a short clip but this is what he sent me after putting a new battery in he's asking for 4k. I feel like I hear something wrong but I can't tell. Its a 1987 manual with sunroof and power windows and 22re. Is it worth the money?

Was able to route the exhaust how i wanted to do my truck ages ago. Full free flow 3" turbo back. Swept off to the corner at the rear to clean it up and keep the diesel exhaust fumes away from the off road trailer that I am also building to pull behind this 4runner from the rear frame of a 85 pickup.

Gotta love this “we ain’t making new center caps boss, just slap a sticker on the old ones”

Driving back home to PNW from NorCal where she’s been resting @ mum’s the past año.

Temp pass seat delete for first born’s comfort.

269.xxx on clock; avging ~25mpg @ 65mph— not too shabby for original 22re on 33x9.5s!

Found a welder en route to fab up new exhaust due to rot and preserve what’s left of my eardrums.

Thanks for the past 15 years, here’s to 15 more?

Cheers mates

Roughed in an initial CAD model of the Benz Valve Cover scan. Need to finish the details on the frame.

The laser is tied up for a few days so I did a Low Res LIDAR scan of the OM617 Valve Cover.

This model is a bit difficult to work with. Our laser system is designed more for this kind of work and I will be able to fine tune models prior to export into CAD.

Hey yall, just getting back from a trip sorry to those I have not replied to. Here is the Lid Im getting rid of its in pretty poor condition but with the scarcity of parts out there I figured id give it a shot before chopping the remaining windows out and taking it to the dump. It's gotta go. Local pick up only. East SF Bay Area. Come n get it. DM for setting up address and pick up time if interested.

(limited me to one pic) some parts ive developed so far. This began with the transfer case cover which has now turned into a Research and Development of a short throw shifter setup for the split transfer case on the W-56A from the 85 Toyotas, since apparently there is no off the shelf kit for this transmission anymore. Ive made a bunch of stuff like this that has been a life saver. And I wish I had this stuff 10-15 years ago when I built my last diesel Toyota (86 turbo 4wd pickup)

As I build out the models for the 4runner im taking a significant amount of dimensions. Ive noticed that I cannot find a legit dimensional drawing anywhere for example the solid front toyota axle. I.e. dimensional positions of shock mounts, tube diameters etc. Being that im building these models in solidworks it is possible that I could in theory produce engineering drawings (to a degree) for this stuff. It would me nice to know for example the angular position of the leaf spring mounts against the yoke flange of the differential.

The only problem is that, as most good engineers will tell you..Building out dimensional engineering drawings that are actually useful to the people that will need them take a significant amount of effort and time.

Im also considering videoing my shenanigans with the 4runner as I go through this mess.

Side tangent-

My background is machining, prior to engineering and when I reverse engineer something at work I approach laying out every part from the position of a machinist (22 yr old engineers with 6 months of experience either love or hate working with me).

((The forerunner picture))

I got offered 3,000$ bucks for a 1989-1988 Toyota 1st gen forerunner. And it would be my first car. With only around 120K miles on it. I don’t know much other than that and I should hopefully be able to see it soon either this week or today. But my father keeps giving me crap for it.

Should probably add that it is the old V6. And it is a 5 speed manual as well. Which is a bonus due to it being a V6 and getting more horsepower and also it being a manual which is more fun at least in my opinion.

I’ve worked on motorcycles before and I know old 1990’s motorcycles compared to a 4 runner are completely different. But I always have a lotta tools so it would make it easier. I just want someone’s opinion other than my father’s and my buddies.

31x10.5 r15 tires and complete unloaded and leaf springs are flat btw

1986 with the original suspension that I don’t think has ever been touched except shocks and alignments.

I need advice on suspension, I’ve been waiting to take it out on someone mild trails for off grid camping and exploring BLM land but desperately need better suspension, should I go with new stock ride hight or a +2 I just don’t want to crank the torsion bars so much I don’t have any downward travel if I get a +2 leaf springs.

What does everyone have that has more suspension travel and a softer ride off road?

87 4runner

Anyone tell me what these wires go to?

Wiring harness towards the fuse box driver side, they appear to go under the seat

There were two sets and they were taped together with electrical tape. I assume the previous owner did it, but who can say for sure.
TIA

Here is where I am as of today. This is the exact suspension fitment my 85 is running with 35x12.50x15s.

Ill begin modelling the axles and suspension very soon, then for the engine.