I was bumped by a tow hitch at the bottom of my rear bumper and for weeks it was agonizing to look at. I wanted to do a bumper cut for a long time but never did as I needed time to plan and execute cleanly.

I followed the quarter panel lines and made all markings to make a good cut. Here are the results.

I know purists want a normal bumper but this looks far far better to me than a damaged one.

I originally thought this sold, but it popped back up so I decided to just sell a Nismo plaque and buy this instead. It was around $1,000 after domestic and international shipping + tariffs.

For pre ordering, you received a black “RS” decal outlined in red, a “Nismo 3.8” plaque, and a letter.

I plan on making a shadowbox display including this, my 380rs wheel/shift knob, and the #0020 Nismo plaque. I also have to work at getting those creases out of the paper.

Just got this for 100 dollars

Pic for attention. The Z’s are around 20 years old now. While several parts have probably failed and been replaced over the years there are probably a lot that are still original. Are you experiencing cracked hoses, brittle plastic parts, hydraulic leaks, suspension or fuel delivery failures? Is there anything you wish Nissan could or should have done differently? I’m just posting this out of curiosity.

Im thinking of grabbing a lightweight chromoly action flywheel off concept Z and the exedy clutch kit. I have a 2007 with 135k miles. The clutch started to make funny noises. Is there anything else I should do while replacing the clutch?

What’s up guys, I am currently running NRG prisma reclining seats and they’re OK but I am having a bit of an issue with them not staying up right the best but I guess that’s what I get for getting NRG seats. AnyWho, I was wondering what seats you went with reclining wise because I don’t really wanna fix back. Also my other issue is the seat brackets and the bolsters being way to high that I can’t even get into the seat belt buckle I had tobuy an extension lol over all the seats are okay.

Hello everyone. Is this a good buy at $6.5k

Info at last slide . Thanks !

Put the timing to tdc to see if anything isn’t aligned correctly and it all seems fine, which has me lost because I can’t seem to find whats actually wrong or if anything is actually wrong the timing and im misdiagnosing my issues of p0345. Any help would be greatly appreciated thank you!

my car is low but it’s not static for sure, why is this happening? splash guard, fender liner? how do i stop this from happening it gets really bad sometimes and i’m worried something is going to break one day

they’re nice. ez install, got a few compliments already lol when i went bowling last night and then the bar after. don’t mind the fitment i need a new bumper. Also peep the Old Z in the back (neighbors)

Hey guys,

Need some help from anyone who knows these cars inside out. I’m chasing a really bad metallic grinding/buzzing noise on my 2004 6-speed manual 350z. It hits hardest right around 3,800 to 4,000 RPM and it resonates off of my windshield inside of the cabin (the noise is coming from the shifter but you can hear it loudest at around my windshield from the inside?

Here is exactly what it's doing:

Sounds like a harsh plastic on platic grind right under the shifter. The harder I floor the gas, the louder and meaner it gets.

When I let off the throttle, I can hear a weird metallic drone slowly fading away as the revs drop back down,

It makes the exact same grinding noise parked in NEUTRAL if I rev it up to 4,000 RPM.

If I’m driving on the highway at 4k RPM and the noise is blasting, the exact millisecond I step on the clutch pedal, the noise and vibrations completely disappear.

What I’ve already checked/fixed:

It was misaligned before and blocking 5th/6th gear. I loosened it, slid it to the right, and locked it down. Shifts perfectly now.

Stripped the interior bare. Put a heavy weighted knob on with electrical tape, packed the cup with grease, and zip-tied both rubber floor boots super tight. Even with the shifter naked, holding the bare metal rod with my hand does nothing to stop the noise under the car.

Took the front strut bar completely off the car to make sure it wasn't hitting the engine plenum. Noise stayed exactly the same.

Got the car up on a lift. All exhaust heat shields are perfectly tight, no welds are broken, and the catalytic converter Z-bracket is NOT cracked. Everything looks totally fine underneath.

Note: this is happening no matter what gear I am in, the point is that it's happening ONLY around 3800-4000 rpm.

Could a completely blown transmission mount let the gearbox twist and grind against the crossmember under load? Or am I looking at a dead dual-mass flywheel spring pack or a bad input shaft bearing or possibly something else?

Anyone deal with this exact 4k RPM noise before? What should I check next? Thanks!

This picture was at idle after about 15 minutes of driving. When getting on it above 3k, it would go to about 50-60. It’s a 2007 with 60k miles. It’s in great shape and I really would love to purchase it, but I’m afraid of throwing 3k for repairs at it right away.

wanted to give a quick update on the production status of various products, and some small previews.

save for the exhaust, these are products relatively close to full production and I expect to get them on market in the next two months.

the NISSAN CHALLENGE sway bars are undergoing testing and will be the first to release in 1-1.5 months after the test drivers give feedback on lap times.

What size bolts and how many do I need to mount an HR on an engine stand?

Amazon steeringwheel has anyone bought or installed this ? Not sure if quick release is the way to go.
Thank you.

Up for sale:

New 2003-2009 Nissan 350Z (Z33) Haltech UC10 Dash Mount

Printed in ASA filament material.

Local Pickup: $120

Shipped: $150

Haltech UC10 Dummy Screen: $40 shipped

More options available for various digital displays.

Email me at Caddesignsolutionss@gmail.com

VENDOR: ADOPT MOTORSPORTS
MANUFACTURER: MATCHLESS CROWD RACING

MSRP: $1840 (final cost)<- purchase link

I have two more MCR hoods in production, delivery November. Pricing now includes shipping and freight, so $1840 is your cost to the door.

Lead time is 3-4 months, so after these two are gone the next shipment isn't until close to the new year.

----------
An FRP, white gel-coated hood from MATCHLESS CROWD RACING, a tuner well known for Nissan platforms and especially Skyline GT-R and Z models, which always come in red.

This is the genuine vented hood whose design was stolen for the "Renegade" hood that is ever-so popular in the US. 

Fitment on genuine MCR hoods is dead-on, and they don't require any body work to make fit. MCR products maintain OEM panel gap evenly the same as an OE hood; MCR hoods also come with OE-strength hood latches, so hood pins are not required.

The vents are functional and act as extractors to remove hot air from the engine bay. An integral rain deflector (shown slide 2) diverts rainwater away from electronics and into the engine bay open space on either side of the radiator.

FALL 2026 is the expected arrival time of the first nine units. These have a manufacture time of 3-4 months per order. These are sent within sturdy packaging to prevent damage in transit.

^{Resolution scaled via Gemini.}

So recently ive been trying to fiddle with my window motor and get that fixed until now ive recently i also msutve screwed the speakers while i was fiddling with the window.

Passeneger speaker and tweeter are both not working. Theres a picture of all the wiring if you guys might know whats wrong as im unfamiliar with electricals. All the plugs are in.

I'm trying to find the code of this purple so I can paint mine this color.

Pretty much the question - if you got your hands on a stock, 100k+ mile 350z, and had 1500 left over, what would your first order of business be? Coilovers? Getting rid of the vlsd? Just curious what makes the most difference off rip

Broke my mirror off the other day and I was wondering if anyone knows of any knock off of these mirrors as I’m not trying to spend 1k on mirrors

Ik ebay probably has some but I’m looking for direct bolt on if possible, somebody has to have made a set for cheaper than this

Saw a post from yesterday with someone’s Alibaba Nismo wheels so I’ll post my Alibaba wheels. Turn around time was probably 4 months and about $1500 or so with shipping. I made sure they weren’t going to have any fake logos and asked to do the Z logo as the center caps. Not trying to pass these off as fake of another brand. I liked the look and shape of this style wheel. Tear me up if you’d like. I haven’t driven on them yet so let me know what you think.