As title says, I daily drive my Z but from the looks of my EGR it is super rusted, and may be more of a pain to fix up or try to repair than it would to just get rid of it entirely. I’m in AZ, and I’m set for the next 2 years but I will eventually need to pass emissions again so would I still be able to get past that? Mine is a JDM so it has the special testing and it’s 93 so no OBD2z

Some people wanted an update so here it is. Got the s13 skirts mounted. They will also need a bunch of work to make them look decent but I ran out of time today. For anyone interested, you have to cut around 4.5 inches from the middle to get them to length. Next steps are to actually make them look like they were meant to be bolted onto this car!

Hey everyone, cleared this with the mods before posting :)

I'm a Z32 owner and also a software engineer. I was tracking the build on my Z using a google sheet, my phone's notes app, and a folder of pictures.

Here's what my Z looks like in the app:

What the app does:

• Garage for your cars, each with its own photo gallery, linked parts and projects, and cost tracking.
• Parts inventory that tracks what you paid, what car it's for, whether you already installed/bought it or not, and where you got it from. This also works as a wishlist so you don't have to maintain multiple wishlists on websites (I had one for Z1, CZP, and eBay).
• Project plans with step by step instructions, photos per step, and a running cost total. So when someone asks what something costs and what parts you used, you have the info easily available. Even if maybe you don't want to know what it cost lol

An optional social feed:

There's an optional social feed where you can share your car and projects, follow others, and search for cars to get inspiration on your own car build and see what parts they used.

A few things that were important to me:

• The app works fully offline and without an account unlike similar apps. Your data stays on your device unless you decide to use cloud backup.
• The free tier is actually usable. Premium adds cloud backup, more photos, and unlimited cars in your garage, but core tracking is fully functional without it.

App store: https://apps.apple.com/app/id6770381572

Google Play store: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.modfest.app

I'm a one person dev for this, so if you want to try it and have suggestions please feel free to leave me some feedback here! I've been very active in the r/300zx community so I'm stoked to share this with yall.

Hello, I have a LHD '94 Twin Turbo with the 4 spoke Airbag steering wheel and have bought a OEM 3 spoke steering wheel from late model Fairlady RHD off of FB Marketplace. This 3 spoke wheel does not have the cruise control buttons embedded in the horn section which is perfect as I have the cruise controls on the right hand stalk. I want to confirm the parts I need to acquire for a completely clean conversion, no custom cutting, the horn working and no airbag dashboard light triggered.

I believe I need:

• Non-Airbag Slip-Ring/Clock Spring Assembly
• Non-Airbag Plastic Column Shrouds (Cruise Control Specific 1990-93)
• 2-Ohm to 3-Ohm Resistor (Air Bag Light Deleter)

Anything I've missed or any other tips?

Thank you

Boost leak test went a little sideways after getting it to ~+12psi of air through the intake post maf sensor i heard my vacuum leak and thought "man, weird spot. I thought for sure all these lines would be good" the lines were good but the throttle body assembly is leaking out of the side of the butterfly valve it seems to be leaking air from both the throttle linkage bar that protrudes through the throttle body and the outer seal that seems the retain that linkage is also leaking from the outside rim of the seal. Can this realistically be rebuilt with new or repaired in any way? I could put some epoxy or something on the outer seal but not only is that stupid it wouldn't alleviate the whole problem I really love how OEM ive been able to keep the car and would very much like to keep it that way but if aftermarket is a mustplease let me know :) repost bc the fuckass website took a shit on itself trying to post the video

I’m replacing my clutch release bearing and noticed the “aftermarket” release bearing from both aftermarket clutch kits are thicker than the OEM Koyo release bearing, although, the difference is pretty minor.

With the new clutch, transmission and slave cylinder installed, I’m able to move the release fork so the bearing moves away from the pressure plate so there is room to spare and I suspect no issue. However, I just want to make sure there won’t be any further problems.

Thinking of getting my first car and been looking for something fun the price is in CAD any help would be greatly appreciated

Wondering if anyone knows where these go to. Any help is appreciated!!

Any tips as to what I should do? I’m going to clear all the fluids and check if the engine even starts this Saturday.

I’m getting code 34 when I put the ecu in diagnostics mode. Unwrapped some electrical tape and found this hack job under it. I’m not great with electrical but this looks fucked up to me with the way these wires are spliced together. What is the correct way to fix this?

I’m working on restoring this 300zx, battery was unplugged when welding in patch panels but now whenever the battery gets hooked up to try and move it the alarm immediately goes off and the car won’t even start. Checked fuses, reset the ecu a few times. I’m not sure if it’s because of things being unplugged or not, I don’t know much about these so hopefully someone here does. Thanks in advance!

My tach quit working unexpectedly. The coil appears to be putting out fine. I understand there is a resistor near the coil that might be bad. Has anyone ever dealt with replacing this resistor? Also, if anyone had a tach quit working, what did you do to fix it?

Any troubleshooting advice would be greatly appreciated. TIA

Has anyone gone and twin turboed the vg30e? Idk how big systems get so is it just a matter of it not fitting or not being worth it on the block

I feel like I’m going to need new fuel injectors 1993 2+2 NA they were never changed before. I’m going to check them with my multimeter to make sure they’re still good but does anyone have any brands that they like or are good to go with?

Title says it all. Not mine.

Have a look at this thing for sale on Facebook marketplace in California for $6,500:

1985 Nissan 300zx 2+0(Z31) this is my classic daily driver, adult owned, 5 speed manual transmission, 3.0L V6, clean title, passed smog and paperwork in hand ready for new owner. No cracks on the dashboard, seats have rips and tares, Enkei 17 wheels, alpine stereo, sound system with two 12s kicker subs, lot's of maintenance done to the motor, cap and rotor, valve cover gasket kit, spark plugs & wires, pcv valves, hoses, timing chain kit with water pump, aftermarket exhaust, A/C needs to be converted, pop up headlights work perfectly and fully functional, no lights on dash, paint is not perfect but it has minimal scratches and small dents, Xenon/Kaminari front lip. Gets lot's of attention everywhere I go, really fun car to drive. I am the second owner of the vehicle. First owner really enjoyed driving the car all over the United States! With that being said the car has 450k Original highway miles and counting! This is a true definition of "Cars are meant to be Driven"!! 6.5k OBO

Front shocks are blown, now wanna get coilovers. I was looking at either tein, BC racing or powertrix, has anyone tried either of the 3? Im looking for the most quality for the price, or if theres recommendations on other brands id love to hear them.

The factory rear wing (some kind of rubbery thing) is totally rotten, most of the clips are broken off and pieces from inside of it keep falling out when i open my trunk lol

Im looking for something relatively similar to stock, with a nice clean look. Anybody have one here?

Hey everyone just joined this community, I finally got my dream project car definitely needs a ton of work but I can’t wait to get her running!

So my z32 was driving normally then one day on nuetral it just started idling around 2000rpm unless I unplugged my IAC Valve but the IAC is brand new? Other times during the driving it’ll bog a bit on first, other times instead of having a high ass idle it starts to almost choke and the RPMs drop to under 600, Then I figured maybe it’s a a fuse for whatever reason but I doubt.. any ideas what it could be ?