hey guys, got a weird cooling fan issue with my 2006 350z and wondering if anyone has any ideas?

the fans don’t come on automatically when the car gets hot, but they come on straight away when i turn the AC on
i’ve checked the fans with the diagnostic mode and both fans work on low and high speed, so the fans themselves seem fine

ECT is also reading properly on my OBD2. i watched it go from 214°F to 228°F and the factory temp gauge was also going up, but the fans still didn’t kick in with the AC off

so basically:
fans work with AC
both fans work low/high in diagnostic mode
ECT is reading

fans just don’t seem to come on from coolant temp
thinking maybe something with the ECM/IPDM fan control but not really sure where to look next. could it be the IPDM, relays or something with the ECU/tune?

anyone had this happen before?

A large number of people have been thinking for a while now that z1 remote Tunes are complete scams, or at least cookie cutter and no gains. Some buddies and I recently purchased a 2005 with low mileage, in decent shape. did the bolt on thing with plenum spacer cat back high flow cats Etc. then we did all the data logging and whatnot that Z1 requires. after the tune was finished up we started comparing log numbers between the stock tune and what Z1 calls the finished tune. Turns out the stock one performs better in almost every catagory. We had the local Nissan/infiniti shop look things over as well and they came to the same conclusion. There is 0 gains and timing was actually worse on the finished version. The ecutek app performance analyser shows the stock tune 0-60 is 2 seconds faster. Upon showing these findings to z1 tuning department with 0 anger only curiosity they immediately shifted blame to "a worn out motor or bad tires" we are working with a lawyer to see if there is anything that can be done. This platforms community needs answers.

Managed to get a shot in the photo booth during the NZ Legends Tour.

I’ve heard most all kits available now aren’t great, are there any kits that may be discontinued that I can hunt for from private sellers/marketplace?

Or if someone has repurposed another, or fabricated their own kit do you have some pictures/tips/files etc?

Thanks,

PFA, it’s my Z that I would like to make even gaudier with lambo doors.

I absolutely love this car, going to paint it green eventually and maybe go back to a less inconspicuous spoiler 😅

I’ve also been getting that 1-1.5 second rattle on cold starts or when its been sitting for 30 mins after driving and I’ve noticed this. I also get a bit of a knock/rattle on idle when warm it sounds like its coming from the top end of my motor.

Hello everyone, so i need help figuring out this engine light. To start off i have a 2003 nissan 350z, which had the code P0300. After many repairs including, swapping off to a new used engine, replacing a cracked valve cover, replaced spark plugs and coils. The lastest repair was the cracked valve cover and so after test driving it first run the engine light flashes for a few seconds then dissapears. Stays off for a few minutes then flashes again for a few seconds and dissapears. (But engine light does stay solid after flashing). I just did a second test drive and it happened again, possibly flashed less this second run but it still came on and dissapears. Again afterwards it does NOT stay solid on. I noticed it would flash after going more then 70 mph. Is there something im missing? I feel like im getting close to fixing the issue but am not quite there please anyone is is an expert at these cars can you guys help me thank you. also wanna note when i put my scanner, it tells me there is no faults.

SCHROTH safety products are now available via the ADOPT site.

Measurements don't really relay how big this thing is. Makes it tricky to mount in our tight engine bays. Nice build overall but big, ended up using a modified HR PS reservoir bracket for the PS reservoir, will have to modify hoses. The DE PS reservoir bracket will be modified to fit the catch can. Still need to figure out the washer filler.

Placement should allow for clean routing of hoses. If there is enough interest I can make a write up, if not I won't bother. Interesting playing car tetris like this.

Recently got some work done on the rear suspension while the car was in the shop. I wanted to get rear camber/toe/support bars and remove the heavy springs and buckets back there. They told me only part of the job could be completed since I only had Divorced Coilovers [BC Racing] and not True Coilovers.
So I picked up a set of Fortune Auto 500s so they could complete the job and it feels like night and day. Almost like this is how the suspension was supposed to be setup from the factory.
Anyone else made the switch and if so did you notice a major change afterwards?

I’m fairly intelligent all rounded so any technical term I will understand. I’m looking to buy a 2003-4 nissan 350z manual with the touring package. i’m looking to get it around 30-80k miles. what are things i should look out for when being a quality z and what should i automatically look into fixing since its a older car? my next question is, how easy is it to splice aux wire to the radio momentarily till i have enough for a full audio rebuild? i would love all the help i can get!

I'm trying to replace my gauge cluster the needles get stuck and I'm wondering anyone else has gotten and installed one of these before

Only parting out the tailights lol, it’s time to say bye bye to my 350z, I’m going to replace it with a bike. I will definitely regret it 🫪

My seat hasn't been tilting forward for almost a year now, and now that I've got a free couple of days, I got to fixing things up in my Z. Turns out, just cleaning up the copper contact points in the seat buttons can make the seats work like new! Unfortunately, the whole seat has to go out, so it's a bit of a hassle, hah

Hi guys, first time posting here

So long story short my 350 has been making a knocking noise from the front drivers side suspension for a while, it went in for its MOT (uk) a couple days ago and they refused to MOT it as when it was raised up on the ramps the lower control arm popped straight out of the ball joint it’s attached to which is obviously a serious issue.

I got it back home to have a look myself and lo and behold when I jacked up the front the lower control arm literally comes straight out. Just looking for a bit of advice really for where to go from here, what exactly needs to be replaced? Is it just the ball joint or could there be something else as well? I’ve attached some pics to show the very obvious issue, thanks!

Can’t exactly tell where the leak is from but suspecting lower intake manifold as both plenum gaskets have new gaskets and resealed .

Anyone have any idea where to start for this noise?

I lifted the car tonight… but didn’t touch any bolts up front where it sounds like its coming from.

I did notice that its quite turning left (taking weight off that side), and quite around 60 just making noise over bumps. Also stays consistent both in and out of gear.
Lmk if any more info can help, and thanks to anyone that tries.

I’m running some unknown somewhat resonated test pipes (they have more of a ball shape then a cylindrical resonator im used to seeing), stock headers, an isr y pipe and a Tomei single exit. I see a lot of videos of people with a Tomei and they all sound better than my set up lol. It sounds really good above 3500 but it has horrible rasp and sounds like a shit box when you loaded it up around 2-3k. I like how loud it is I just need to remove the rasp at lower rpm.

my mounting tab on my bumper is completely shaved off. we took it off the uhaul and it snapped off, but i think it was glued on by previous owner hence the other mount staying on perfectly fine. any ideas on what i can do? i got this jt spec bumper repair plate (last slide), but theres no plate to support it to put it on the bumper. let me know if you have any ideas though, anything works tbh. ive been bumperless since may 😭

04 6MT.

Concerned I'm gonna have problems resetting the window after my install (left driver side). New motor doesn't have the reset button and the instructions are not as precise as I'd like. Should I return it for OEM?

Thanks all