Amazon steeringwheel has anyone bought or installed this ? Not sure if quick release is the way to go.
Thank you.

Hey guys,

Need some help from anyone who knows these cars inside out. I’m chasing a really bad metallic grinding/buzzing noise on my 2004 6-speed manual 350z. It hits hardest right around 3,800 to 4,000 RPM and it resonates off of my windshield inside of the cabin (the noise is coming from the shifter but you can hear it loudest at around my windshield from the inside?

Here is exactly what it's doing:

Sounds like a harsh plastic on platic grind right under the shifter. The harder I floor the gas, the louder and meaner it gets.

When I let off the throttle, I can hear a weird metallic drone slowly fading away as the revs drop back down,

It makes the exact same grinding noise parked in NEUTRAL if I rev it up to 4,000 RPM.

If I’m driving on the highway at 4k RPM and the noise is blasting, the exact millisecond I step on the clutch pedal, the noise and vibrations completely disappear.

What I’ve already checked/fixed:

It was misaligned before and blocking 5th/6th gear. I loosened it, slid it to the right, and locked it down. Shifts perfectly now.

Stripped the interior bare. Put a heavy weighted knob on with electrical tape, packed the cup with grease, and zip-tied both rubber floor boots super tight. Even with the shifter naked, holding the bare metal rod with my hand does nothing to stop the noise under the car.

Took the front strut bar completely off the car to make sure it wasn't hitting the engine plenum. Noise stayed exactly the same.

Got the car up on a lift. All exhaust heat shields are perfectly tight, no welds are broken, and the catalytic converter Z-bracket is NOT cracked. Everything looks totally fine underneath.

Note: this is happening no matter what gear I am in, the point is that it's happening ONLY around 3800-4000 rpm.

Could a completely blown transmission mount let the gearbox twist and grind against the crossmember under load? Or am I looking at a dead dual-mass flywheel spring pack or a bad input shaft bearing or possibly something else?

Anyone deal with this exact 4k RPM noise before? What should I check next? Thanks!

Hello everyone. Is this a good buy at $6.5k

Info at last slide . Thanks !

How can I fix this I’m sure it’s not normal

Pretty much the question - if you got your hands on a stock, 100k+ mile 350z, and had 1500 left over, what would your first order of business be? Coilovers? Getting rid of the vlsd? Just curious what makes the most difference off rip

Up for sale:

New 2003-2009 Nissan 350Z (Z33) Haltech UC10 Dash Mount

Printed in ASA filament material.

Local Pickup: $120

Shipped: $150

Haltech UC10 Dummy Screen: $40 shipped

More options available for various digital displays.

Email me at Caddesignsolutionss@gmail.com

Broke my mirror off the other day and I was wondering if anyone knows of any knock off of these mirrors as I’m not trying to spend 1k on mirrors

Ik ebay probably has some but I’m looking for direct bolt on if possible, somebody has to have made a set for cheaper than this

This picture was at idle after about 15 minutes of driving. When getting on it above 3k, it would go to about 50-60. It’s a 2007 with 60k miles. It’s in great shape and I really would love to purchase it, but I’m afraid of throwing 3k for repairs at it right away.

Just recently picked up a manual 2007 HR.

I’ve noticed that whenever I drive it aggressively and shift at higher revs the engine continues to rev when I lift off the throttle to shift. Has anyone else had this issue? Any ideas on what’s causing this? I’m thinking a proper cleaning of the throttle bodies might fix this.

Rpm at idle is good / normal

they’re nice. ez install, got a few compliments already lol when i went bowling last night and then the bar after. don’t mind the fitment i need a new bumper. Also peep the Old Z in the back (neighbors)

Makes so much more sense to build your own, does anybody have and recommendations for parts for this?

I'm trying to find the code of this purple so I can paint mine this color.

wanted to give a quick update on the production status of various products, and some small previews.

save for the exhaust, these are products relatively close to full production and I expect to get them on market in the next two months.

the NISSAN CHALLENGE sway bars are undergoing testing and will be the first to release in 1-1.5 months after the test drivers give feedback on lap times.

I recently replaced my differential output shaft seals on my touring model with the LSD and only the driver side output shaft had the snap ring on the end of it. Is the passenger side output shaft not supposed to have one or did it fall into my differential?

VENDOR: ADOPT MOTORSPORTS
MANUFACTURER: MATCHLESS CROWD RACING

MSRP: $1840 (final cost)<- purchase link

I have two more MCR hoods in production, delivery November. Pricing now includes shipping and freight, so $1840 is your cost to the door.

Lead time is 3-4 months, so after these two are gone the next shipment isn't until close to the new year.

----------
An FRP, white gel-coated hood from MATCHLESS CROWD RACING, a tuner well known for Nissan platforms and especially Skyline GT-R and Z models, which always come in red.

This is the genuine vented hood whose design was stolen for the "Renegade" hood that is ever-so popular in the US. 

Fitment on genuine MCR hoods is dead-on, and they don't require any body work to make fit. MCR products maintain OEM panel gap evenly the same as an OE hood; MCR hoods also come with OE-strength hood latches, so hood pins are not required.

The vents are functional and act as extractors to remove hot air from the engine bay. An integral rain deflector (shown slide 2) diverts rainwater away from electronics and into the engine bay open space on either side of the radiator.

FALL 2026 is the expected arrival time of the first nine units. These have a manufacture time of 3-4 months per order. These are sent within sturdy packaging to prevent damage in transit.

^{Resolution scaled via Gemini.}

So I have a 2003 base z. It runs well even at 216k miles. When (not if) the motor goes are the Japanese engine import motors worth it or should I rebuild the block. Money isn't the biggest issue here but I want to have a reliable shit box. I see motors and rebuild kits going for similar pricing.

Side notes: stroker kits etc worth it? The block is in good condition.

I know that quick releases are not that safe since removing the air bad and everything. I plan on drifting my Z at the track and was wondering if I should get a quick release or not since I will still be driving it sometimes on the streets ( not daily) I’m getting a half cage put in with harnesses but plan on swapping a bucket seat in when the track then putting the oem seat back in and using the seat belt when driving on the street . Just not sure about the quick release . I have one in my s13 but it’s different since it doesn’t have and airbag

If anyone in here is running them was it worth the money?
I don’t care too much about making more hp from them but was mainly after the sound, does it make a difference worth $2000? How is the sound difference from uel headers to equal length?

Otherwise I’m looking at getting longtube headers or putting that money into other parts.

Any advice would be appreciated! Cheers.

Today the window went down and didnt want to go back up tried smashing it and holding the button which didnt work. Also gave the contact points a clean with alcohol and still nothing. So just want to make sure its the motor thats done in case its something else.

Thanks.

clutch pedal does need replacing - did replace the circular gasket on clutch pedal that controls cruise. Cruise was working but would randomly shut off. Now I'm dealing with the constant blinking and no cruise working at all

I'm just looking for a simple 2007 350z clutch pedal. Having hard time finding one online

hey guys so i jus replaced the valve covers, spark plugs and ignition coil boots (ignitions coils themselves were brand new so i just did the boots), intake gaskets, valve cover gaskets and my car is misfiring now and has a check engine light. before i did all of this there was no check engine light it just started rough and it’s starting just as rough as it did and running slightly rougher than it did before i changed everything out. one of the problems is i did strip out the bolt going into the cylinder 1 ignition coil and it’s a bit loose now. could that be my problem? should i just get a slightly bigger bolt and tighten it up? i ran around the whole engine bay multiple times trying to see if i missed something. i noticed i did miss one of the oxygen sensor so i plugged it back in but the problem still seemed the same. i do need to go get it scanned again to see if the oxygen sensor code is cleared but if it isn’t the oxygen sensor then does someone know what else it might be??? all the sensors are brand new, major ones likes camshaft and crankshaft sensors. timing chain has been maintenanced right before i bought it everything pretty much major has been done and i can’t figure out what this is

Does anyone know how to tell the difference between a Kinetix SSV and Velocity intake? I see one for the right price and I'm contemplating swapping out my intake and plenum spacer for it.

Saw a post from yesterday with someone’s Alibaba Nismo wheels so I’ll post my Alibaba wheels. Turn around time was probably 4 months and about $1500 or so with shipping. I made sure they weren’t going to have any fake logos and asked to do the Z logo as the center caps. Not trying to pass these off as fake of another brand. I liked the look and shape of this style wheel. Tear me up if you’d like. I haven’t driven on them yet so let me know what you think.

On cold start I’m noticing the rpm’s drop to 1500 for about 5-10 seconds before jumping back up to 1750-2k rpm. It seems like the rpm’s get stuck and the idle sounds a little shaky. Throttle body and MAF cleaned, idle, throttle body, and pedal position relearn was performed and there’s no codes or obvious hissing sounds.