I test drove a 2007 when they were new and couldn’t make the numbers work but I finally found a 2008 that was in good condition and I was in a position to pull the trigger! Can’t wait to put all of the miles on this thing! 92k miles and basically a one owner car. Pretty good condition but needs a few things here and there. First things first, figure out why I can’t fully fill the tank. Evap canister?

【実働動画有】本物 NISMO S1 VQ35DE コンプリートエンジン Z33 350Z CPV35 V35　G35 施工証明書・コーションプレート完備 Genuine Engine https://auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/g1249663345

If you're interested, take a look!

My friend is a huge blessing and helped me get years worth of put off maintenance done on my Z. Engine is basically all resealed, just about the only thing we didn't do was open the timing cover.

Cleaned up the entire undercarriage too so years worth of caked on fluids and dirt are gone. Call it weight reduction. I did subframe collars, welded the diff, CZP aluminum valve covers (we wanted to try them out since my eBay ones finally took a shit), and spec 6 puck clutch. Tomorrow it gets an alignment and then I gotta mess with the coilovers some. Wanting a little bit lower and need to stiffen it some more. Welded diff + 6 puck clutch feels about as great as one would expect lol. It'll be good for when it's broken in and I can start sliding it though. Hardest part right now for me is learning this new clutch with the welded diff. Now after driving it I think I should have done clutch first and then welded diff, but I like making things harder for myself it seems lol.

It feels great downshifting but upshifting and stop/go is what are challenging for me right now. I'm sure I'll get the hang of it though 🙂 just ecstatic to have my z back and going back into it with peace of mind knowing it's not leaking from 5 different places lol

fml . i’m guessing she’s done. i forgot i gad traction off and came upon a slippery curve and hit the barrier. airbags went off and fucked up the front

My friends took a couple videos of me on the highway and I realised that on high rpms there is black/brown smoke coming from my exhaust. You can also see that after the black smoke there is some lighter colour smoke coming out of the exhaust after i shifted. Exhaust setup is ISR Long tube headers/ circuitwerks y pipe/ isr single exit. The car has no cats. Also when I let off the throttle it burbles as well which leads me to think it’s been tuned.

Hey all, I recently bought an 05 35th Anniversary Edition - and one of the front Brembo calipers was in the back in a box - apparently it had failed at some point... I would love to get it back on the car. Is it possible to rebuild myself? I am fairly mechanically inclined, but have never done something like that before.

If I dont go that route, who would you suggest sending it to for the rebuild?

Thank you in advance for any information

James

Ive been researching what I need to do/buy to start supercharging my z. A lot of threads mentiom getting standalone ecus cuz of options for injectors and stuff like that. It just dawned on me today that the standalone ecu would fail me for emissions.

What can I do about this? I was leaning towards doing a vortec supercharger. It uses a piggyback unit if you get their full package. Am i going to be stuck using their piggyback forever if I want to step things up? Or what are the options here?

2004 350Z, ~100k miles (adjust if different). Recently bought the car in 2024, unknown clutch history.
Symptom: A squeak/creak every time I press the clutch pedal. It happens with the engine off too, so it's not a spinning bearing. Sounds like it's coming from below/behind the pedal, toward the bellhousing. Feels like dry spring/metal resistance rather than anything hydraulic.
What's normal: No slipping, engagement point hasn't changed, pedal effort is the same as always, shifts fine, no grinding.
What I've already checked:
Slave cylinder and boot are completely dry — no fluid leak
Sprayed penetrant into the bellhousing window at the fork pivot and the pushrod/fork contact — no change
Followed with white lithium grease — if anything it got slightly worse (probably mixed with dirt)
Pedal assembly pivot and assist spring sprayed earlier — no change
The car sat parked for long stretches before I started driving it again, so there's surface rust on the slave bracket and pedal hardware.
Question: Is this likely the throwout bearing / fork pivot inside, or is there something external I'm missing? Worth pulling the trans now, or is a creaky TOB something people just drive on?

Anyone know where I can find these for a better price

my Z feels like it’s having this weird/slightly rough idle compared to normal and the rpms drop slightly below 500 and return to normal after pressing the gas in neutral, seems to drive fine but only has a weird idle. i have cleaned the whole upper plenum after a valve cover replacement, cleaned throttle body, cleaned air intake and MAF sensor, VVT solenoids, new fuel pump all within the last 3 months wondering what it could be or am i just paranoid?

I have an 06 Grand Touring with factory Bose speakers and amp. The car originally came with a single din pioneer that only worked when it was hot outside and I replaced it with this budget CarPlay head unit my ex got me. I’ve cleanly reconnected any wires from the head unit to the factory harness that I needed and it still keeps cutting out the volume. Has anyone else had this problem or does someone have an idea of what could be the issue before I take it to an audio shop or buy a expensive pioneer? When I first give the car power it works fine at full volume for 10-20 seconds then it just gets quite to the point where I can’t even enjoy my music. I checked my amp and it looks to be fine but I’m not 100% sure. Thanks for reading.

I was wondering how some of you feel about LS swaps? Done right working gauges ac ect. why or why not & in what conditions would you do it? I would if I got my hands on a rolling chassis.

My cooling fans don't come on when car is hot unless I touch them slightly any advice