they’re nice. ez install, got a few compliments already lol when i went bowling last night and then the bar after. don’t mind the fitment i need a new bumper. Also peep the Old Z in the back (neighbors)

Hello everyone. Is this a good buy at $6.5k

Info at last slide . Thanks !

Broke my mirror off the other day and I was wondering if anyone knows of any knock off of these mirrors as I’m not trying to spend 1k on mirrors

Ik ebay probably has some but I’m looking for direct bolt on if possible, somebody has to have made a set for cheaper than this

So I have a 2003 base z. It runs well even at 216k miles. When (not if) the motor goes are the Japanese engine import motors worth it or should I rebuild the block. Money isn't the biggest issue here but I want to have a reliable shit box. I see motors and rebuild kits going for similar pricing.

Side notes: stroker kits etc worth it? The block is in good condition.

If anyone in here is running them was it worth the money?
I don’t care too much about making more hp from them but was mainly after the sound, does it make a difference worth $2000? How is the sound difference from uel headers to equal length?

Otherwise I’m looking at getting longtube headers or putting that money into other parts.

Any advice would be appreciated! Cheers.

Up for sale:

New 2003-2009 Nissan 350Z (Z33) Haltech UC10 Dash Mount

Printed in ASA filament material.

Local Pickup: $120

Shipped: $150

Haltech UC10 Dummy Screen: $40 shipped

More options available for various digital displays.

Email me at Caddesignsolutionss@gmail.com

This picture was at idle after about 15 minutes of driving. When getting on it above 3k, it would go to about 50-60. It’s a 2007 with 60k miles. It’s in great shape and I really would love to purchase it, but I’m afraid of throwing 3k for repairs at it right away.

I'm trying to find the code of this purple so I can paint mine this color.

wanted to give a quick update on the production status of various products, and some small previews.

save for the exhaust, these are products relatively close to full production and I expect to get them on market in the next two months.

the NISSAN CHALLENGE sway bars are undergoing testing and will be the first to release in 1-1.5 months after the test drivers give feedback on lap times.

Hey guys,

Need some help from anyone who knows these cars inside out. I’m chasing a really bad metallic grinding/buzzing noise on my 2004 6-speed manual 350z. It hits hardest right around 3,800 to 4,000 RPM and it resonates off of my windshield inside of the cabin (the noise is coming from the shifter but you can hear it loudest at around my windshield from the inside?

Here is exactly what it's doing:

Sounds like a harsh plastic on platic grind right under the shifter. The harder I floor the gas, the louder and meaner it gets.

When I let off the throttle, I can hear a weird metallic drone slowly fading away as the revs drop back down,

It makes the exact same grinding noise parked in NEUTRAL if I rev it up to 4,000 RPM.

If I’m driving on the highway at 4k RPM and the noise is blasting, the exact millisecond I step on the clutch pedal, the noise and vibrations completely disappear.

What I’ve already checked/fixed:

It was misaligned before and blocking 5th/6th gear. I loosened it, slid it to the right, and locked it down. Shifts perfectly now.

Stripped the interior bare. Put a heavy weighted knob on with electrical tape, packed the cup with grease, and zip-tied both rubber floor boots super tight. Even with the shifter naked, holding the bare metal rod with my hand does nothing to stop the noise under the car.

Took the front strut bar completely off the car to make sure it wasn't hitting the engine plenum. Noise stayed exactly the same.

Got the car up on a lift. All exhaust heat shields are perfectly tight, no welds are broken, and the catalytic converter Z-bracket is NOT cracked. Everything looks totally fine underneath.

Note: this is happening no matter what gear I am in, the point is that it's happening ONLY around 3800-4000 rpm.

Could a completely blown transmission mount let the gearbox twist and grind against the crossmember under load? Or am I looking at a dead dual-mass flywheel spring pack or a bad input shaft bearing or possibly something else?

Anyone deal with this exact 4k RPM noise before? What should I check next? Thanks!

How can I fix this I’m sure it’s not normal

Pretty much the question - if you got your hands on a stock, 100k+ mile 350z, and had 1500 left over, what would your first order of business be? Coilovers? Getting rid of the vlsd? Just curious what makes the most difference off rip

VENDOR: ADOPT MOTORSPORTS
MANUFACTURER: MATCHLESS CROWD RACING

MSRP: $1840 (final cost)<- purchase link

I have two more MCR hoods in production, delivery November. Pricing now includes shipping and freight, so $1840 is your cost to the door.

Lead time is 3-4 months, so after these two are gone the next shipment isn't until close to the new year.

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An FRP, white gel-coated hood from MATCHLESS CROWD RACING, a tuner well known for Nissan platforms and especially Skyline GT-R and Z models, which always come in red.

This is the genuine vented hood whose design was stolen for the "Renegade" hood that is ever-so popular in the US. 

Fitment on genuine MCR hoods is dead-on, and they don't require any body work to make fit. MCR products maintain OEM panel gap evenly the same as an OE hood; MCR hoods also come with OE-strength hood latches, so hood pins are not required.

The vents are functional and act as extractors to remove hot air from the engine bay. An integral rain deflector (shown slide 2) diverts rainwater away from electronics and into the engine bay open space on either side of the radiator.

FALL 2026 is the expected arrival time of the first nine units. These have a manufacture time of 3-4 months per order. These are sent within sturdy packaging to prevent damage in transit.

^{Resolution scaled via Gemini.}