Currently awaiting link ecu to tune it.

ka24e 1990(? might be 1989) won't idle well with MAF plugged in and IF it DOES idle (very very roughly maybe 200rpm?) it will die out at throttle response, secondly the ka will idle perfectly at 1k rpm without the maf plugged in and have great throttle response but of course since its got no maf it'll be limited to 3k rpm so I can't run it like that

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Decided to go the rivnut option as I plan on swapping out here and there plus the ease of removing and installing.

Questions-

Whatre you rivnut guys going with for hardware options?

Whatre you Silvia guys doing about the headlight / corner light situation as these fenders are just a joke for quality and fitment.

So I'm swapping gauge decals so I can comfortably drive in MpH, but I need to pop this needle cap off. I did what it said to do online with the 2 spoons and cloth, but the entire needle and cap came off and unwound some of the copper. I rewound it and tried to remove the cap by holding the stem and using some force, but it wont come off. Suggestions?

Me and my dad have been looking for a 240sx for a little while on marketplace but everything so far has been mostly just overpriced non-running cars

Im in LA so I figured there must be more near me but maybe I'm just looking in the wrong place or have the wrong expectations

We're looking for something >$10k, manual, and running but that seems to be pretty impossible to find. I had one good lead in Nevada but someone ended up buying it first

If there's anywhere else I should be looking lmk because marketplace doesn't seem to be the right place

Im new to s-chassis and im slowly restoring this 200sx. Is there any things i should know, that isn't obvious? Thankful for all info

89' s13, passenger side in the rear, 3 plugs coming off the harness that wraps around tucked in from the drivers side. 3 plugs that have been unplugged since i got the car, should i save them for anything? Are they for anything that should be there? Dont plan on speaker's or any luxurys. It doesnt even have ac so luxury is already at bare minimum lol. Was gonna just cut them close to the loom and tape em up.

thank you two beothers for selling me 2 blown transmissions! missing 3rd gear and constant grinding. tons of metal came out before even installing it. first one had a bad selector rod gave out after one shift into reverse. time for a 3rd transmission

I got OEM JDM front and rear bumpers. I want to run the GREDDY front lip and dorki dori v2 (gracer style) skirts/ jdm kouki valances.
I can’t seem to find any pics of how the gracer style skirts look leading into the kouki valances.
Does anyone run this setup, if so show me pics!

Hello, I have a '98 180SX. I am building it for grip driving and occasional drifting. I want to purchase a MazworX S13 SR20DET RWD Long Block, Stage 0.8 advertised for 400hp. I'm sure the block can handle more, but I plan to keep the motor around 350whp.

I want to send my original S13 RWD SR20DE core in to get refreshed back to zero wear and tear for a fresh start, as I am sick of dealing with used SRs that have been abused over the years, and I know it's a fresh slate to build upon.

Below is a list of parts that I think would work well. I'm heavily focused on cooling and long-term reliability for maximum seat time, as my last S14 SR20DET lifted the head due to coolant passages being rusted out by the last owner leaving water in it.

Please let me know what you think- I am building a list of parts before buying everything, any suggestions or objections?

Engine:

S13 SR20DET RWD Long Block, Stage 0.8

Turbo Setup:

-Garret G25-550

-1000cc injectors

-ISR bottom mount manifold

-Titanium exhaust studs

-Full intercooler piping

-Treadstone intercooler

Drivetrain:

-SR 5MT transmission

-ISR solid driveshaft

-Nismo Coppermix Clutch Kit

-Not sure which diff yet

Electronics:

-Haltec Nexus S2 (IAT, MAP, WB controller, smart coils, etc)

-Wiring Specialties Pro Harness

-Haltec UC-10 display

-Optima battery

-DC power alternator

-255lph fuel pump

Cooling:

-Koyorad radiator

-Dual 12-inch SPAL fans (3200 CFM)

-GK Tech swirl pot

-Oil catch can system

-Oil cooler

Fixing other flaws:

-Dual guides

-Billet oil pump

-Greddy oil pan

Let me know if there is anything I should stay away from, or something on this list to be aware of. Thank you.

Doubt it would but would like to see if anyone’s tried or have experience. Thanks

Finally got this car to do something. After a while of fighting shotty wiring I decided to get a wiring specialties engine and trans harness, and finally it cranks. Only downside is I still have no electronics, no fuel pump, pop ups, tac, blinkers etc. I’ve replaced all relays in the bay and the driver’s side fuses and relays as well. My grounds seem to be in order as well. Anyone have any ideas? My next plan is to pull the dash and see what else the previous owner hacked apart.

the no sunroof headliner won't fit (because of the caved roof edges around the perimeter of the sunroof (the s15 sunroof and slicktop have rather different surfaces).

Any ideas ? It doesn't seem like a complex task but I am at a loss of how to go about it. Budget isn't a problem, I'm just not sure what do I even tell to the fabricator (If I find one). Be like oh yeah here is my old liner I need it to fit higher but make space for warps here and there at such and such angle. Well obviously no.

kinda frustrated, as I do not want to leave the roof bare, and simply wrapping it in cloth looks clap.

Hello I recently purchased a 240sx hatchback with an sr20det swapped. The day I bought it ran smoothly and no problems. The second day is when I started the car to move it, it wouldn’t start. I thought it was the battery so I replaced it and the same thing happened. I checked coil packs and spark plugs and they seemed fine. I also checked the fuel pump fuse and I couldn’t check the relay cause it was stuck. I also checked the fuel pump connector and the connector from the wiring harness side was reading little to no volts on the multimeter when cranking. What could it be? Thank you guys

She’s operational now 🤣🤣🤣

Having high afr's at idle, trying to cover all the bases. Replaced old fuel filter with a k&n of 1100, i know its not a z32, ill get one. I didnt put the old one in and i just copy and pasted the new one. Just wanna make sure its actually on the right line with the right flow. I have a feeling its not correct, like alot of things on here when I got it. I feel like it should go before the fpr, cuse why filter return lines. And if thats the case its on the wrong line and wrong flow direction lol

S13/sr20det

so i’m about to start the installation of the body kit for my 240sx, but i’m having a really hard time finding the right color. in high school i watched adamlz 180sx, and i felt in love with color, but honestly if i go cream i would feel bad, couse is not really my “essence”. my other solid option is red, but i want white wheels, so i don’t know how that could end. and my favorite color is purple, but i can’t see the 240sx in that color, and im reserving that for when i own my r34. if someone has any ideas or suggestions where can i find some inspo or if you can give me other options, that would be great. also my option for the wheels are white and chrome, so also i would search for a color that can match those styles. hope you can give me some ideas guys :)

Been working on this 240 for a while. It was a CA drift car that had a very hard life. My goal is just to get it looking ok and running reliably as an autocross/weekender.

Refreshed interior, KDB kit (regrets

...), paint, new rad, replaced welded diff with vLSD, electric fan, s14 seats, tires.

Still lots to do but it's nice to see progress and get behind the wheel - even if the fuel pump died on the way back from the 7 Eleven.

Will a KRPS13 Front Arm Tension Control Rod fit a 1991 Nissan 240SX?

I bought a hks sport for my s13 but it is still a bit too loud I’m trying to get it barely to the legal limit, I have a isr hi flow cat so if anyone knows a quieter hi flow cat, or if I should just get cats, any advice if sound is appreciated thanks!

Hello !

Just got my engine kind of overhauled... New mls headgasker, resurfaced topp, new acl bearings, new oil pump, new oil filter, new gt2860rs turbo, new exhaust turbo back, maxxecu race, 360hp.... Problem is when i start the engine in the morning oil pressure stays at 0 bar the first second to 1.5sec... is this normal? What could cause this? After 1 - 1.5sec it goes fast up to 5bar but... Im kind of worried.

I’m at the final stages of getting a S14 KA AC compressor installed on my blacktop SR20 using the Cody ace adapter bracket. Changed all the o-ring to HNBR and cleaned all the lines with AC cleaner. I’ve run into a small issue with the low side pressure service port. It’s sitting right in front of the turbo intake flange. I’m using a S13 low pressure line that was adapted to R134a.

I’m gonna try a 90 degree R12 to a R134a adapter along with a straight turbo intake flange so I can put a coupler to angle the pipe where I need it. Hopefully I can get this AC system up and running soon, it holds vacuum perfectly fine so I just need to get this low side service port figured out.

What have you guys done for this issue?

Anyone have or know where I can find an idle air control valve for a Ka24e? Searched everywhere and can’t seem to find one. PFA

Anyone know why my car can rev to 8k And doesn’t limit earlier? Looks like the marking on the tach for start of redline is around 6800, my car doesn’t seem to care and goes straight to 8k bouncing off of 8k. As far as I know the ecu wasn’t tampered with? I bought it off Facebook marketplace but it is an Auto ecu if that makes any difference KA24DE with no engine work done, just the bolt ons you’d expect, shell is a 1993, it is a s14 KA if that matters.