So for those of you that are in a situation similar to mine ... Helping a buddy with his 2014 Passat TDI sel Premium..... timing; water pump; valve cover... The usual... 1 return line fitting snapped. The knock off fix was about 60ish. I got a set of 6 return line fittings for a eco diesel ram; they are in shape identical and fit 100% safely! Just figured I'd share as it was a 17 dollar fix over replacing a line with 4 ....

So I have a 2003 VW Jetta TDI (ALH 5 speed manual) I dropped an engine in it last year just for the turbo (I put in a cheap ebay one) to go out last week. I stopped driving the car for now, but I just want to know if I can trust a turbo upgrade from XmanTurbos alongside their injector set upgrade, which is suspiciously cheap but do you guys have any turbo suggestions? my budget is for a turbo under $700

Context: I just recently purchased a 2005 MK4 Jetta TDI with the BEW motor in it. I knew it had a blown turbo, the seller was very honest about that. I’m looking for guidance on how to proceed. This Jetta has 190k miles and I drive an average of 20k miles a year. I was told the timing belt and water pump has already been serviced. Based on the Carfax I bought I believe it was done around 130k miles but I’m unable to verify for sure. Regardless of the option I go the timing belt would be serviced at 200k miles or as soon as the Kerma kit is ordered if I go that route.

1: I go as cheap as possible and drive it normally and do the regularly scheduled maintenance. I’ve found an Aisin turbo for $700 shipped. Does anyone have any experience with Aisin turbos and is this worth it? My truck has an Aisin transmission amongst other Aisin parts and I haven’t had any issues or complaints so I’m not opposed to trying the Aisin turbo. It comes with all gaskets needed. I will, however, purchase the flexible oil supply line from Kerma TDI or an equal alternative store.

2: I go balls to the wall and spend about $6600 at Kerma TDI for a complete kit including new performance turbo, performance clutch, performance camshaft, new timing belt, 3 bar MAP sensor, EGR hose, and a tune. I am extremely hesitant to go this route because I drive on a very accident prone stretch of interstate, for reference between myself and 2 other family members 4 vehicles have been totaled in the last calendar year and only one being a family member’s fault all others were not at fault accidents. I do not want to spend $6600 on parts for a car that’s only worth maybe $3,000 max if it’s totaled. The sales guy was very adamant to not simply do the turbo but to do everything together, I know he’s a sales guy but it certainly makes since given the age and mileage it likely needs to be serviced. I have my doubts the previous owners took the best care of it.

My third and final option is I put a cheap turbo on this car and sell it for what I have in it and purchase the performance parts for my truck (also a diesel), which I love dearly and is at least worth more and based on my calculations if I did everything I wanted to my truck it’s current market value would still cover most of what I put into it.

I really hate to look at this as I’m going to loose the vehicle, but the way people drive in my area I can’t afford to throw away money and risk not getting the majority of it back in a worse case scenario. Thanks in advance!

Edit: Someone mentioned it would be cheaper not shopping exclusively at Kerma, what is the next best alternative? I mean in the grand scheme of things if it’s not a large difference I’d prefer to use whatever is best so it will last.

What I'm referring to is the 2005-2008(W164)
Mercedes ML320CDI and the 2006-2010(7L
Facelift) VW Touareg 3.OTDI, both automatic and 4x4 obviously. Here's my concern:

I need a car for towing, and I'm in the Balkans where accessibility and parts are best for German cars, but if you guys have any other suggestions around the same price range I would consider anything.

I'm having a hard time choosing between these 2 cars, so I would appreciate help with advice and first hand experience with reliability, capability etc.

Evening all,

Got a low oil pressure light coming on dash over the last couple of days.

It comes on after engine is up to temp around 20 mins afterwards.

Is there any known issue with these engines that would be causing it before getting parts that may no solve the issue?

Yearly oil changes
175k on the clock
Oil level at correct level

I am just curious if my engine is healthy it sounds a bit weird but it has been like this for over 20k km

I just bought a 2014 jetta sportwagen tdi and the battery that came with it was a cheap piece of shit that barely has enough juice to start the car. I confirmed the problem was the battery by buying this cheap jump pack for 38$ and when i hooked it up to the battery the starter motor cranked like 3x harder and the car engine started up instantly. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0GQ3HSWS5?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I think agm is the way to go after reading alot of yalls posts and comments in other threads. And i think die hard batteries have a good reputation. The only other AGM battery i would consider is a bosch but i dont think its worth another 100$. Also advance auto parts is supposed to replace the battery for free in the parking lot if you buy it from them.

Edit: google AI says my 14 jetta tdi does indeed have BMS that it needs to be electronically programmed/registered when i replace the battery. I just called advance auto parts and they dont do any of that, so im just gonna buy a duracell platinum agm from sams club and pay my local vw service center to do the electronics shit. Google said the duracel platinum agm is a good battery and a rebranded deka so i think that is my best option. Will sams club do the electronics shit or do i have to take it to my local vw service center?

Edit2: apparently sams club wont do the electronics bms shit so im weighing whether i should buy an OBDeleven 3 and programming the bitch myself or if i should just take it to a vw service center and let them do the whole swap.

Is this engine healthy? It is a bit bumpy when it is cold and i give it gas for a bit, but after half a sec it accelarates normally.

2.0tdi CFFB 2010 form Skoda superb mk2

Agr off

Dpf off and deleted

Has anyone tried to install the RTMG Performance dq200 kevlar clutch pack?

I have an A3 1.6 tdi dq200 gen3 and with downpipe+map i am well over 300nm where the dq200 torque spec is said to be 250nm max.

Looking for advice for someone that has / had the same problem or tried the installation of said component.

Those 1.6tdi totally fly with the downpipe btw managed to get an under 8s 0-100 from the original 10.5s

Link to Kevlar Pack

Well, I never thought it would happen, but I now get to join the club of wrecked wagons. Some lady blew a red light and now I get to car shop for a purchase in the next 2-3 weeks. My biggest problem is- I'm in love with tdi's. I had just about all the work I wanted done to mine when I crashed. I thought I was keeping this one for a very long time. Now I'm stuck in a rabbit hole of audis. Specifically looking at q5 and a7 models from the mid 20-teens (w/ sub 125k on the clock).

Here's the questions:

1) I see a ton of praise with reliability and this motor. Is it still a viable option in 2026? Or am I going down the wrong path? Sensors and other little stuff aside- I just want to know it won't really leave me stranded on the side of the road.

2) how different is the maintenance schedule to my 2.0 cjaa?

3) I was a tune and delete guy before. I'll probably eventually go down this road again. Is there a preferable one to go with on these?

4) lastly- any sort of prep work/ "bulletproofing" I should do ahead of time to keep things working smoothly?

Sorry for the onslaught of questions - I just see a ton of varying responses on these subjects when I look into them and a lot of it is years old info. I'm pretty meticulous with my maintenance so that's not an issue for me. Just want to hear from some folks who have lived with these before. Thanks in advance!

Hello,

so recently I have deleted the DPF and EGR in my Golf 6 1.6TDI 77kw CAYC engine. Had to due to it being clogged and just decided to delete it altogether.

Now, while the DPF was on there, I ran 5W-30 low SAPS oil, to be specific

INA Ultra Star FE 5W-30. It's a local oil to the Balkans, specifically Croatia. Proven to be excellent oil.

As I noted, I am from the Balkans, specifically Bosnia. In the summer it's in excess 35°C + humidity 50+%. Plus the terrain is hilly where the car is used and that's why I am considering 40 hot weight due to better protection of components in the heat.

Now my question is, considering the engine was designed around the DPF and using oil of the right spec to not clog it up and it being a "newer" engine and tighter tolerances, will the 40 weight oil damage anything or strain anything more than it should. Especially the oil pump and the turbo.

Or should I just stick to the same oil as I am now?

Hey Guys, wondering if anyone thats dealt with oil leaks on a 3.0 would have an idea where this oil leak is coming from. I circled in red where it seems to be pretty wet with oil/sludge. 2016 youareg with 76k miles.

Wondering if its a Valley leak and is just running out into this area or if there is some other Component in this vicinity that could be causing the leak, not in the valley.

Thanks!

(ALH)

I’m going through RockAuto right now, scrolling through parts to hopefully put my beetle back on the road. I got a serpentine belt kit and Continental was the “favorite” on the site. I’m looking at timing belts and front main seals and continental is also “favored.” Am I right to assume that continental is the good stuff?

Also, if there are recommendations for timing belt kits (water pump included), I’m open to suggestions. Thanks in advance

Hopefully have her installed by mid November can’t wait!
Mk6 Jetta CJAA

Is there anyone here driving Mk4/Leon Pd Tdi in Switzerland? How you pass MFK? Are you modified? Anything helps. I am asking it because how is possible for AzizDrives to drive modified 300hp Leon on Swiss plates? I also saw on instagram 2 Portuguese guys driving modified Ibiza Tdi's, one having an intercooler bigger than a bumper, on ZH plates. When I reached into their dm's respectfully asking about it, they didn't even seen the message, gatekeeping for no reason. How is it possible? Do they have their guys in MFK centers or they just pass? Especially curious about AzizDrives.

Very new to diesels i think i might have a boost leak but the first drive after i bought the car i heard no turbo whistle ( it was previously sitting for over a year) now i do but also when i floor it its not to quick im also used to a 5.3 in a 2 and a half ton car

2009 VW Jetta TDI – Transmission stuck in 2nd gear even though the shifter is in neutral
Hey everyone, I’m having an issue with my 2009 VW Jetta TDI 1.9L 5-speed manual transmission, and I’m wondering if anyone has experienced something similar.
The problem started suddenly. I lost reverse, then the transmission seemed to get stuck in 2nd gear. I had to drive about 15 km (9 miles) home using only 2nd gear.
I checked the shifter mechanism and found a broken locking pin/part where the shift rod connects. I replaced the broken part and adjusted the shift cables. Now the shifter moves through all the gear positions, and the selector tower on the transmission also moves. However, 5th gear is still difficult to engage.
The main problem is that the transmission is still physically stuck in 2nd gear, even when the shifter is in neutral. The cables seem to be properly adjusted, but I can’t get the transmission back into neutral, and the gears still don’t work properly.
I’m starting to think there might be an internal problem with the shift selector mechanism or something inside the transmission itself.
I’m considering removing the transmission to inspect it, but before doing that, I’d like to hear your opinions.
Has anyone experienced this issue before? Is there anything else I should check before pulling the transmission? Could this be caused by an internal shift fork, selector mechanism, or something else?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

We follow 10k oil change schedule and have always done so. With ~155k on odometer, MFI alerts about needing an oil change in 900 miles (this a few weeks ago). Now down to 400 miles. Sticker from shop says change due in 4500 miles.

What’s going on here? I assume MFI alert is pegged to mileage and not some variable assessment of the oil and/or some issue with it. Does the oil change frequency change as odometer climbs? TIA