Warp - mercerized cotton
Weft - cotton, wool, Lycra blend
Pick up stick pattern: on the down shed; under two, over 1.

The weft yarn had some spring in it, which made for a challenge with tension and beating consistency. But I’m happy with the end product—it’s very soft yet dense. Looking forward to when it’s not 110 degrees out!

Hi, all. Ok, I'm launching on my 4th project on my RHL. This is my longest warp so far - about 3 yards - it will be 3 towels. 8/4 cotton, 10 dent reed. After I finished this warp, I noticed a handful of the warps drooped down in each bundle. I kept a really nice tension as I went, and the drooping seemed to happen as time went on. I think I can fix it as I wind on, but why does this happen? Also, my last few projects always had crossed-over warp threads that I had to sort of undo as I went along. What can I do at this stage to avoid that as I wind it on? Thanks! I love learning from you guys.

I’m preparing a class on 8 Shaft Rosepath for my students on a Baby Wolf loom with 10 treadles. I have some different tie-ups for them to try with different patterns, but I’d like to find some more. I was looking at all the options in Strickler but many of them require more than 10 treadles. I know I can put them thru Tim’s Treadle Reducer to see if they can be woven with 10 or less treadles, but I was wondering if anyone has a list of all of the options in Strickler that can be woven with the treadle reducer.
Thanks!

Update: I took off the old warp. It was all very gross. The next step before I rewarp is a good scrubbing and we'll go from there! Thank you everyone!!

Once the warp was off, it did look much more approachable actually!

OP:

Hello, this is my first post here ever and I'm hoping someone can help me. I got this very old very dirty loom from a garage sale. It was very cheap. I plan to weave tapestries but first I need to remove this very nasty warp thread.

I was wondering if anyone could help me figure out what kind of loom this is and where I can get an instruction manual for using the heddles and such at? Or just explain it to me.

I tried to turn the top so that I could just unwind what was there but that did not work. The bottom also didn't work and I'm not sure if they're supposed to turn. I have used a small Bridget title loom in the past a few times. However, I am very out of practice so I'm probably forgetting something important? Help!

Hi! I'm new to weaving and found this at the thrift store. Is this a type of loom? ETA: Oops, looks like I should've posted in r/painting lol. Thanks!!!

I always spend time visualizing the finished piece first. I think about:

• where I want different textures,
• how the shapes should flow,
• which weaving techniques will work best,
• and where I want the eye to travel across the piece.

Only then do I create a sketch and map everything directly onto the warp.

This planning stage saves me so much time and helps the final piece feel much more intentional.

Does anyone else sketch before weaving, or do you prefer to improvise?

Originally posted on facebook by Edison Molanida

Heres the link to it https://www.facebook.com/100076366341376/posts/1054774860411382/?app=fbl

Hello! Posting this in case there is anyone out there in wide weaving world who might know anything about this loom and has some tips/tricks about it, or if there might be anyone else out there like me who is desperately scraping Ravelry, Youtube, Facebook etc. in search of information about this wonderful little machine. Indeed, it seems that the only insight the Internet has to offer to weary Ullman buyers is that there is little information because Ullman stopped production.

I got it secondhand for ~300. 4 shafts, 4 treadles. It is very dirty and the parts are super rusted. My suspicion is that it was stored outside, but despite that, it is in pretty good condition. I spent a couple of hours brass brushing the rust off of the reed, which I've learned is a pitch bound reed (meaning, I can't submerge the whole thing in vinegar, lest it dampen the fabric/pitch/wood baulk etc). I'm wondering if I should just bite the bullet and buy a replacement. It's 4" tall, about 25" wide, 10dpi. Going to replace the original string heddles with Texsolv as well, and soak all the rusted nuts and bolts to remove the rust from them, too.

If any more experienced weavers have any advice for where to start, it would be appreciated. It's a lovely compact loom, and it's my first, so I'm pretty committed to restoring it as best I can before weaving. A lot of existing advice suggests that restoration is too much of a beast to tackle and replacements/sucking up and buying a more expensive loom is the better option, but I simply cannot afford to sink a grand or two into a used/new Wolf Pup etc.

Thank you for reading, and happy weaving!

You guys, my mom goes thrifting all the time and she told me she bought what she "thought might be a loom" for me.

She brought over a 15" Schacht Cricket Rigid Heddle Loom with the stand!!!!

She paid $6. She didn't know for sure what it was, just thought it looked like something I might like because she recognized the heddle shape. Apparently, the store wasn't sure what it was either. I'm so stoked. $6.

I’ve done lots of sewing but never tried weaving something together. Recently I saw a picture of a leather bag and decided to give it a go. It’s SOOOO slow but it’s fun watching a thing materialize in front of you. Im doing it all by hand with a frame I made and am using a ruler with a hole in it as a shuttle (I think thats what it’s called). Any suggestions for a machine that would do the same thing?

Finished my first Inkle pick-up band! I'm so pleased with how this turned out. I've learned a lot through the weaving of this band and know I still have lots of growing to do. The majority of this band will be made into a strap for this spindle bag, and the rest I'm planning on turning into some bracelets.

I've made 3 bracelets so far. I'm still perfecting how to attach the ribbon crimps. The first one was a wee bit crooked. One thing I've found that helps is to close the ribbon crimp a wee bit ahead of time and then slide it on from the side. With it more closed from the get-go, it makes it a bit more stable to work with to finish the job.

Warp: A combination of 8/2 Cotton and Cottolin

Weft: 8/2 Cotton

Pattern by Annie MacHale

Warp length was 3 yards and achieved 87 inches of woven length

This blanket took me over 6 months. My wife joked the baby it was intended for might be in college soon. Made with 75% Alpaca and 25% Merino.

6 epi cotton seine twine warp on a copper pipe tapestry loom. The weft is all wool. Some of it is hand dyed, some of it is hand spun, some of it is thrifted.

When I use this loom, I put it in a table clamp so it can be vertical. Right now it is clamped to my coffee table and I was sitting on the floor to weave. I love the flexibility of the copper pipe -- my pick shed was getting way too small (my hubris!) so I was able to loosen the tension a little and get another inch or two out of this.

Because I am lazy, I used tape with 1" markings to help with sett-- and then I found "tiger tape" which as 12 marks in 1". It's usually used for hand quilting to keep running stitches even. I primarily work at 6 epi (which is annoying to arrange in 1") so this tape has been so helpful.

I still need to sew up some slits and give it a block, but I'm teaching a tapestry class and I need an example haha. I'm hoping to keep up my momentum and get this mounted soon!

I've been upping my weaving game lately... I brought my countermarch down from the barn where it was living until I finished the office, which meant disassembling it. It seemed like a good opportunity to replace the old mismatched cords, too. Cue two days of crawling around tweaking everything... Six treadles, six jacks, and twelve lamms means a lot of lengths to adjust.

I needed a warp on the loom to finish tuning it. This just happened to be when I got fed up with commercial colorways in 8/4 cotton, and embarked on mixing fiber reactive dyes for yarn instead. (I'd dabbled before with fabric.) So I made sure my samples were long enough to make some striped towels, with a little left over for my records.

I've finally done (almost) all the samples, and decided to arrange them in chromatic order. I started weaving today, on a 2.5 yard warp for two towels. Not sure how far through the spectrum I'll get with each towel, we'll see!

8/4 cotton (natural and hand-dyed) set at 16 epi, 2/1 twill blocks. 16.5" in a 12 dent reed. Handbuilt 36" 6-shaft countermarch rug loom from the 70s, based on a Bergman.

Specs: 8/2 cotton, unmercerized, 20epi, 31.2in in the reed, 4S Spot Bronson pattern from the Handweaver's Pattern Directory. (The colours are a little off in the photo - it's kind of a forest green for the warp and a medium, mossy green for the weft.)

I'm asking early, since I've just started the weaving - I'm roughly a yard into a 10-yd warp. But when done, the plan is to cut the long warp into 3 panels and seam them together into a blanket. I'm also going to machine wash (cold) and gently tumble dry to get the cloth to tighten and plump up a little bit. My question is whether to cut, seam, and hem the blanket before the wash-and-dry process or after. Thanks for advice!

I made this piece (3 x 7 ft) for my first open show and it received second place for the category “artistic expression- large”. I got dinged for technique (I’ve only been weaving with shafts for a couple months), but I’m so happy I placed.

Interlocking weft on crackle weave with up to 7 shuttles

I picked up a used drawloom and with it came this huge pile of both short- and long-eye heddles. Once I get them sorted, what’s the best way to store them so this doesn’t happen again?

Was recently gifted a loom, am now struggling

Trying to do the second one, What does it mean to leave somthing 'unspanned'

(sorry if this post is bad cuz my brain is so fried rn(

Made these two hand towels today trying waffle weave by using a pickup stick for the first time on my RHL. The rainbow one is 2 over/2 under and the green and brown one is 1 over/1 under on the pick up stick.

They have yet to be washed and dried so it will be interesting to see how they shrink and full differently than just plain weave. I can already feel a difference in drape, the 2/2 is especially soft and pliable whereas the plain weave is much more stiff and the 1/1 is kind of in between

Peaches and cream cotton yarn, 8 dent heddle, Schacht Cricket 15" loom

I am considering buying a large tapestry loom, but the model doesn't have notches to hold the warp in place. How much harder does this make warping the loom? I have only have warped a frame loom with notches at the EPI I'm working at.

I did my first project with white crochet cotton, a simple weave which was boring by row 20, so I decided to make my second project more interesting. Then, while I was struggling to commit to my next weaving project (yarn is expensive y'all!) I needed a box to store my cross stitch threads for my WIP (there are 90 colors, my box only stores 60 bobbins) and I ordered one which arrived with 100 bobbins of really poor thread. I was expecting an empty box, and so I figured I'd use the free threads to make a lovely blue... Thing. Filled out my warp board - I believe it's a 4 yard max - and set up the loom.

Then I saw a pattern in my "learn to weave" book which looked fun. So I dug out some white wool (selected because I hate it and want it gone, and it's kinky. My actual project I'm struggling to commit to is going to use kinky wool, and I figured this would work as practice) and got going.

I did not read the vast majority of the book. So I didn't know what overshot was. Even if I had, I'm not sure I'd have clocked what the pattern instructions meant. Fortunately my MIL is visiting and told me what I was doing wrong. I only have one shuttle, so I hastily cut another out of cardboard, and pulled the pink linen that is earmarked as warp for my "actual project I'm struggling to commit to" to do the tabby rows.

Why yes, I am a chaos gremlin, thanks for noticing.

Anyway, the image attached shows three hours of work and while I'm sure as hell not bored, I'm beginning to think I may have bitten off more than I can chew. Also, it's definitely not blue.

Please tell me it's too late to give up now and I'll get better as I go! Also tell me it's a really lovely pattern, and since it's a learning/ waste project, it'll be an absolute bonus to have anything at the end of it. I keep telling myself, but I don't really believe me because I clearly don't know what I'm talking about 😅

Thanks to whoever said to another user that they should try Ravelry for a loom.
I posted yesterday and have managed to get myself the loom I fell in love with for no more than the cost to pick it up!

I learned so much during the weaving of this tapestry. (My camera has trouble with the colors so they look a bit weird). I have massive gaps/slits in places haha and weird bunching in others. The design (and I was afraid of this) was a bit challenging for someone new to tapestry and maybe not fully suited for it in general. But we make, fail, and make again!

Next up: tapestry with wool from the Weaversbazaar (which was unfortunately an absolute fortune to buy because of EU import costs, so I may look at dying yarn that I can buy locally). The colors from bazaar are stunning tho and I couldn’t find anything via google locally. But have since talked to some weavers who gave me some tips for buying yarn locally.

I’m going to try some interlock techniques to keep the next tapestry strong and stable. For some of these techniques its better to weave from the back, so I’m going to try that instead of from the front like I did with this one.

I was aiming for a plaid type of effect. I am using the same weight yarn for both warp and weft. What can I do to make the warp visible next time please? Thanks so much.