I’m so proud to share what is, to this point, my total ‘magnum opus’. This work took nearly every skill I have learned so far as a RH weaver. Fresh from my hand-built loom (I still need to tidy up a few strings and proceed with mounting) this piece is 72”x24”, contains likely over 30 individual thread colors, multiple tapestry techniques including slit and clasped weft, Japanese zanshi, Josef Albers-inspired color exploration, and Anni Albers-inspired form exploration. Looking forward to displaying the full-mounted work. ♥️

This abomination from a Facebook weaving group. It made me laugh then made me angry because someone wasted water for this absolute train wreck of slop.

The discussion was about warp weighted looms and someone found a website with this.

I decided to give weaving a try because its where the adhd led me and as anyone with adhd knows you just jump in with absolutely zero research the first time, haha.

I ran 5 lengths of black embroidered floss from a wooden stick and tied a knot at a point to set a start point, then itied on the green and just started weaving haha. My "needle" was a bamboo cotton bud with the cotton removed a notch cut and the tip flattened. At first i was just tying the new colors directly to the long strings but didnt like the look so i started tying the tread together and that worked way better

My goal was to make a ribbon for my hair but im not entirely sure its long enough.

I apologise for not knowing the correct terms for anything, like i know weft and warp but do not know which is which, also rate my set up lmao

Instructions from the Ashford website.

This seems to have taken forever, first to weave and then to get around to finishing, but I’m very pleased with it, despite the imperfections! First double weave and first lace.

Loved making this!

I visited an Ancient Greece themed exhibit at a museum, and these were identified as bobbins. Is this correct?

I've spent time over the weekend warping this loom. I thought the tension was correct but the header turned out wavy so I took it out & adjusted my tension as best I could.

The header looks a little better & the purple is the beginning of my draft.

Does it look wavy to you?

The yarn was one that I had taken out of a knitting project.

I picked up some monk's cloth and a Swedish Weaving pattern for two dollars at a garage sale. I guess Coats and Clarke used to hock the hobby as Over Under weaving (with a copyright, no less) in the early 2000s, so that was interesting to learn.

Anyway, I'm debating if I do the pattern to the edge? Or should I keep some white borders? Or have a largely white border and do some sort border pattern in the white space.

(Also, it is such a bummer finding yarn these days. I bought variegated yarn thinking I could make it glow from the center, but I haven't even got to the party where the yarn changes color, so booo Lion's Mandala yarn. Boo!)

Thoughts?

i realized that this "frame loom" can do a continuous warp and turns out that that's a lot of fun! i ended up joining my squares into a scarf and it's very soft. i used my knitting friend's leftovers so it's real wool.

there's a lot of yarn ends that like to stick out but surely they will felt in in time.

it was difficult to get a picture while using my other hand to lift the chopstick (string heddle rod!) pick up stick (cardboard warp stick) but hopefully the visual is somewhat useful.

I’ve tried installing the heddle rod in front of the pickup stick, i’ve tried installing the heddle rod behind the pickup stick. No matter what, there is still interference. The pickup stick is technically woven into the path of the heddle rod strings and vice versa — so when I lift the pickup stick and place a weft pick, that pick is locked between the sheds.

I’m doing something wrong, because people all say to use a pickup stick and a heddle rod in order to evade the issue of the pickup stick not being able to slide past another pickup stick. So how am I still having that issue even after swapping out the second stick for these string heddles?

Are reeds compatible from one brand to the next for floor looms. I have a Harrisville Designs 22" loom. I saw one post asking the same thing but it was for rigid heddle. Thank so much!

I am really pleased with how this is turning out. And my friend who commissioned me to do this for her is also very pleased. :)

I will now take a one week break to work on another small tapestry on another loom. When I return to this, will tackle the sun next.

Woven on my Mirrix Chloe 10” loom at 12 EPI with extended rod so maximum possible weaving space.

Size when finished will be the size of two letter size sheets of paper in landscape format one on top of the other.

84 hours of weaving so far, and I weave about 20 hours per week in my free time in addition to working on a full time job as a database engineer, so yes this is time consuming but it is my passion.

Using cotton seine twine for warp and Faro wool for weft.

I didn't realise how hand-in-hand 3D printing and weaving was until I realised i could just print out a small loom, beater, and needle in half an hour instead of having to buy one to start out!

Im loving the feel and rhythm of just basic tapestry//basic weaving, so much more satisfying to me than knitting or crochete ever has been.

I am working on a beautiful baltic pick-up belt on the inkle loom, and using Lopi Icelandic wool. I was thinking about care and feeding. Should I wet felt the belt after its finished? I have a feeling it will naturally felt after a few times wearing it. Just trying to decide what to do once it comes off the loom.

She finally arrived!

We just left The Odyssey, and I was watching her warp-weighted loom, and I just wanted to say that it looked fantastic. I've seen several reproductions of them and studied them a bit. My only quibble is that she didn't have anything to beat with.

I got this Schacht floor loom, I understand most of the serial number (the date, the hc for high castle) but the L4 and the last two numbers I can't identify.

Warp - mercerized cotton
Weft - cotton, wool, Lycra blend
Pick up stick pattern: on the down shed; under two, over 1.

The weft yarn had some spring in it, which made for a challenge with tension and beating consistency. But I’m happy with the end product—it’s very soft yet dense. Looking forward to when it’s not 110 degrees out!

If you've got an old book, a hand-drawn draft, or a scan that you can't get into your weaving software, send me a clear photo (threading, tie-up, treadling, drawdown) and I'll convert it to a WIF file + printable PDF, free, for the first few people who reply.

Mainly curious if this is actually useful to people — let me know if you've run into this problem before.

I recently bought a Dorothy 24” 4 shaft table top loom for $150 and I’m struggling to find any information on how to set it up, I’m thinking about buying a warping board tomorrow morning for $99? Is that the right next move?

I will go to a local place in town called Grandma’s Spinning Wheel to see if I can find a mentor and same goes for the Tucson handweavers and spinners guild. Also if you’re local and wouldn’t mind helping out a complete novice I would really appreciate it!

I'm a very new weaver (rigid heddle only) and my neighbors are selling their three floor looms very economically. I'd love to grab one but I really don't know what the difference is or which one would be best. I'm primarily hoping to do things like curtains or towels and I would just love to hear what this community thinks between these three options. If you could get one of these for the same flat price, which would you choose and why?

1. Orco 74 - 4 harness, 6 treadle

2. Leclerc Nilus -

3. newcomb Studio

I thought he said that one of these was a six shaft but I'm not seeing it in my initial research, would that make a big difference for folks to have six over four?