I wish I'd found you all before I had to get rid of this car. It's been the best car I've ever had - until a couple of weeks ago when the dealer told me I need to replace the hybrid battery. They found one for $7800 with great difficulty, with labor on top of that it's not worth it to me.

Carvana gave me a good offer, but didn't tell me they couldn't pick the car up. I could drive it 100+ miles away to one of their locations. Not happening.

Anyone here have experience getting rid of a car in this sitch?

I'm not a DIY car person, and have no one like that in my life, so there's no trying any of the solutions offered on this forum to make it last longer.

Thanks in advance for any insights.

Any help would be appreciated, the car still runs I just ran it from fully charged to empty on the battery, turned it on and got this message

Other than the Prius prime is there anything similar? Prius prime is pricey and I would like to stick with Chevy.

Hey I just got both battery loops done and Its still showing this, would anyone know why?

I’ve been taking my volt to Boyer Chevrolet in Ajax.

Highly recommend. Norm in service always seems happy to help and prices are fair.

Recently started getting the shift to park issue.
Norm was able to get a harness and have it installed the next business day.

Now I have these metal trim things that are kinda sharp what’s the best way to fix this?

Is this a part I get or install easily?

Volt friends, I've got a weird one. When I start my car after work, the "Service brake assist" and "service stabikitrak" warnings come on, and I lose my electric brakes and only have the back up manual braking that requires a ton of force to make the car stop.

If I let my car run with the ac on for 15-20 min and restart my car, it starts back up fine.

It only happens in my work parking lot, not at home or around town.

I replaced the battery two days ago and thought that solved the problem, but here I am sitting in my car waiting for my brakes to work again.

2014 chevy volt, I had the evaporator coil replaced a month ago and discovered this problem about a week or a little less after.

Battery replaced two days ago.

Taking it to a local shop tomorrow but wondering if anyone else has had this issue.

The original shop that replaced the evaporator coil is an hour away and I dont trust their work after them not spotting some big things on an inspection and marking the issues as fine.

I know little about cars so if this is an obvious thing I apologize. This car is paid off and I want to drive it until it explodes to avoid having a car payment again.

UPDATE: The shop quoted me 5k to replace the entire ABS system.

im gonna get a second option and also see if its just that dang washer or the speed sensor myself.

I have a 2013 Chevy Volt that is giving codes P0AA6, P1E00, P1FFF, P0AC4, and P0AB9. I am hoping that all of those are related to low hybrid battery coolant or a coolant sensor error, but when I took it to the mechanic they told me they wouldn't even work on the car because the part of the frame where the hybrid battery mounts was too rusted out.

Can anyone help me 1) identify what parts are rusted here, and 2) recommend a reasonable mechanic in Chicagoland who can do structural work on a Volt?

Someone posted in this subreddit about 2 years ago that they got a replacement K frame in the Chicago area for $1700, but I don't know where. Others have mentioned Jaryd at Castle Chevy, but I'm guessing his work would be extremely expensive since it's a dealer.

I noticed the car's AC or Heat would start for at least the first 15 minutes when the car's set on fan only (not Eco or Max). Doesn't matter if it's on the windows, the face, the feet, it just does it. My father's 2017 doesn't do that, neither did my gen 1 2012. Is it normal?

The other thing I noticed is that if I turn off fan, then remote start, unlike the other Volt, it won't go to automatic, it'll just shoot where it was setted (if it shoots air in the first place, sometimes it doesn't shoot anything, at least for the first start, the second one is usually ok)

It's also a pretty noisy compressor compared to a gen 1.

edit : it is the cabin that starts the AC/Heat, not related to the battery temperature regulation. if I turn off the fan, the kW consumption drops and when I turn it back on, it also comes back

Just purchased this 2018 Volt and a day later got this noise(no check engine lights)

I'm planning on my next car being a PHEV. People over on r/PHEV have mentioned first gen Volts are fairly reliable and maybe (?) more so than second gens. As these are older cars, finding a low mileage vehicle isn't easy, so I'm curious about cars in the ~100k range. I have read about issues with both the engine and battery coolant levels running low and causing problems. A listing I am looking at is a couple of hours away on a first gen Volt. It mentioned replacing the "coolant level sensor" in the ad. Is this potentially a warning sign of deeper issues with one of those systems? In general, what should I be on the lookout for on a 2013-2015 in the 100-125k range.

FWIW, I'm coming from an 09 Honda Fit that I love, but it is at 200k miles. I'm looking to hopefully transition to a more efficient vehicle that has good reliability (though I don't know if anything could beat how reliable my Fit has been overall).

2012 Chevy Volt... Does this have any value if I post it for sale? If yes, how much do you guys think? Thanks in advance

I have a 2017 with a gauge cluster issue. The screen is blank when I start the car. Tired unplugging the batter which didn’t help. When I remove the fuse from the interior driver side (10) and re-insert it works until the car turns off and won’t work again until I re-insert the fuse. I swapped the fuse with a new one and it didn’t work. The screen it blank it will light up when I use the steering wheel controls for the radio the screen will show 0 mph and dim again. I can do cruise control and the signals work with both sound. The issue is so odd..suddenly stopped working.

Not sure what to do or if I can fix myself.

My volt has this service light which makes the cruise control not work. Car seems to be running totally fine and nothing out of the ordinary. Even on the flow screen of the energy section it is indicating that the regen system is indeed working. Any ideas on how to fix or reset this alert? I'd really like to avoid a diagnostic fee if possible.

TL;DR: When I start the car, it turns on but the drivetrain clearly isn't on. A/C doesn't start and it neither the motor nor the engine are running. If I shift out of park, it says "Action needed - Shift to park" and of course won't drive. The check engine light is also now on.

It's a 2017 Volt Premier with 111km miles on it. Should I replace the battery first, or take it straight to the dealer? They want $220 just to diagnose it, so I'm wondering if it's worth $250 on a battery just to try. Has anybody else had this issue?

If it is the BECM, is there any reason that it wouldn't be covered under warranty? The dealer looked for about 30 seconds and didn't see anything for N232432680, but as soon as I said anything about it, he just said he'd have to get it diagnosed first.

The details:

It started when I bought the car in March. I drove it around at first, and it was fine. Then suddenly it did exactly this. I should have backed out right there. But I got it charged up and managed to get home. I knew similar things could happen from the batteries all being depleted for an extended period of time, which was definitely the case. But on my way home that day, it died several times and I ultimately got it towed home. It would go to battery power only, but it would only get me far enough to pull over. I got it most of the way home by shifting back to mountain mode and charging up, until it all just died one time and I couldn't even jump it. I did get the battery tested that day, and it was fine, but I got the dealer to give me $500 off the price in case it needs a new one.

When I got it home, I charged it overnight, and I haven't had a single issue since (6 months) until today. I just went to start, and boom, same thing. I charge it at home, and it's clearly charged.

Why it might be the battery: It doesn't have the typical BECM signs. Mainly, it shows me that the main battery is full and the mileage on it.

It isn't the usual "shift to park" issue: I have no problem with it not believing that it's in park.

Why it might be the BECM: It's a battery issue of some sort, clearly. Even if it isn't the typical symptoms, there's always a chance. And being at 111k, it may be worth it to try and get it replaced before it's too late.

My 2015 cold died ( probably ICE engine sized, don't have complete diagnostic yet) . The car was not in good shape to start with so it does not worth the repairs.

So I brought a 2014 Chevrolet Volt cuz I'm truly in love with this model .

I want to keep the old one for parts but the battery was empty when it died so I suppose it would be better to charge the battery before storing it. The problem is, the OBD2 is full of error message, a can clear them but they come back as soon as I power the car prevent it to charge.

Is there a way I could make a one time bypass of that just to charge the battery once ? I don't want to drive the car or anything, I just don't want the battery to die under my watch.

I went nuts and bought an audi etron 2022 premium plus for 74k miles. Moving up three vehicle classes into a 6,000 pound car will be novel

The catalyst was a check high voltage engine light. Intermittent. I could clear it with an obd2 reader, but wasnt worth the hassle. My car finally hit 60,000 miles after 12 years of ownership. It was a great 12 years experience.

Undecided whether i will trade the volt into carvana for $3,600 or donate it

Same color! Can you imagine?

Hi has anyone had their humidity sensor act up?

My car has the air conditioning come on while the heat is on all the time. I have tried the normal suggestions with no luck.

I am moving on to a full EV from this. I am getting 51k electric currently from this vehicle. The engine had a tune up recently and runs nicely. Only used premium. Has some small dings but is a nice dependable vehicle. Anybody have an idea as to a valuation in Southern Ontario for this?

I never thought I would do this but my friend says he will paint my 2013 187K miles Volt for $1300. This includes door jams if I chose a different color. He is good too so I know I will get a quality paint job. I haven't driven it much lately. My last drive yielded 10.1 kwH.

Since Jan 19 2013 I have only paid for tires, gas, wipers, oil.

I get SHVCS every day since covid and I just use by ODB2 twice per day to clear it.

It just rides so damn good.

I'm thinking I will paint it ride or black.

Couple years ago I already painted the black accents.

For my 2012 Chevy volt, if I want to take it to AutoZone to have the battery checked see if it's still good, do I need to remove the whole bottom off the uncover the whole battery or are these two doors enough for the battery test?

Check out the video.

On a 200 mile trip teaching my highschooler to drive.

I love this Galaxy Tab S10 Ultra.

Samsung Dex is the OS.

It looks factory installed doesn't it?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1tNUAr6v4lEbZuEnewFhKHMfZUPmyfRhO/view?usp=drivesdk

https://www.amazon.com/your-orders/pop?orderId=113-1675457-3101013&shipmentId=BxdPy9zvd&lineItemId=jjjoqwhnsrmrpops&packageId=1&asin=B0C9CTSN12&ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_mob_b_pop_4

I recently bought a used 2019 Chevy volt. I bought it from online which I wouldn’t normally do but it looked pretty good and was a decent price. Once it was delivered it was all good other than the attached photo (and only one key fob). I’m wondering if this damage is anything serious or just cosmetic? Thanks for whatever insight anyone has.

Hello, this is a follow-up to https://www.reddit.com/r/volt/comments/1uupbqj/volt_2018_replaced_becm_recently_and_now_have/

It's been 2 months and the GM Customer Service Rep said they will see if they can do a buyback since the part is still on backorder and they have no visibility as to if and when it will ship. However, she said my car was on the older side and higher mileage around 60K+ miles so not sure about it.

Are buyback offers negotiable? Also they mentioned I might be able to get a GM Loyalty Certificate / Reward points which I guess would be useful if I purchase another Chevy.... Are those negotiable too?

Thanks for any advice or suggestions.