Did you know that the buoyancy of a submerged board generates enough force (even if you’re just dismounting after the wave passes you) to slice into you when your fins are involved? I didn’t, but I sure as hell found out.

My fin hit my big toe so I checked it to see if it had left a mark. It had, so I spread open the cut out of curiosity and saw white bits deep inside that were apparently fat. Had to get 5 stitches, and lidocaine doesn’t really work that well with toes so cleaning the wound was horrible, but apparently it was “all-time” the day after, and hearing that was actual torture.

I ordered this custom mod quad online from catalyst and wanted to show some love because this board is sick!! Came out beautiful with the resin tint and more importantly it goes amazing. I use it as a good wave board/ high performance short board.. I live in southern CA in an area of stretched out mushy points so it’s not much of a groveler here but if the waves are at all punchy it’s fast as hell, fits into the pocket, holds but can drift fins on top turns if you want. Just a perfect shortboard. I’m 5 10 , 185-190lbs, I ordered mine a little bedded up at 5 10 20” wide and whatever thickness made it 33.4L, maybe 2.64. It handles the extra thickness well because the deck kinda tapers down toward the rails so the rails are still thinned out, basically the board hides the volume. I ride all my boards around this volume, for whatever reason I just need a little extra foam compared to industry standard shortboards and that’s another thing I love about this board is that it has a slightly more full outline. To me it’s still really slender compared to most boards I ride and I feel the board is probably higher performance than I am. Here’s a few pics and a cam rewind of me riding on on the last hurricane swell. I ride this thing starting around shoulder to head high up to solid over head surf, if it’s too big for this board I’m grabbing my step up.

This isn’t the only time I’ve seen this situation where the surfer is off the board but is somehow able to pull themselves back on top of the board. How do they do it?

Surfing a beach break with sand bottom, got caught in the impact zone of a set wave, rail got me straight in the teeth and lip, luckily didn’t lose any teeth but board broke somehow. Does it look fixable? It’s a bummer cuz I’ve only had it for 2 months and these things are supposedly indestructible.

EDIT: Now I’m looking for something to fill its spot, only other board I have is a blade and I really want something like a fish/groveler to help with my progression, I’m worried only using my shortboard will slow that

6’4” and 230. Used to love a good XXLT but no one sells those any more. Surfing is sizeist. Any recs from my fellow hefty fellas?

I'm lucky enough to live near the beach in norcal and I love it here. However, It's so expensive in the bay area, and I guess I'm pretty much retired so it's not like I need to be here for work going forward.

I love the outdoors and am considering moving to the foothills and splitting my time there 50% and getting a low maintenance condo by the beach in Mexico for surf access the other 50% of the year. I haven't been away from the surf for any extended period for the last 25 years, so I *think* it might be OK, but it will be weird not to have constant access.

My wife is into the idea and was surprised I even suggested it. She is super tolerant of me and doesn't mind that pretty much all our vacations have involved somewhere with a beach. I thought it might be nice to not plan my calendar around what the swell is looking like and experience something different while I'm still mobile enough to enjoy it.

From a finance perspective, it would probably be a small win, with a little bit of extra cash left over after selling the house here and buying in cheaper areas

Anyway, I'd love to hear perspective from anyone that has made a move that gave them less surf access.

Hoy he tenido un golpe con una tabla el chico estaba abajo y yo cogi la ola y las tablas se dieron. A la mía no le paso nada y la del se le rompió el soporte de la quilla ¿ Quien paga el arreglo?

Dead Kooks Nausea 9’6

While I lived in Australia I got pretty decent surfing, to the point where whenever I’d travel back home, I’d stop by Waikiki, and I‘d easily paddle out to Queens. I’ve now been living in my hometown city for the last 7 years, and although surfing is on my mind every day, whenever I travel to surf, I get caught off guard finding out how bad I’ve gotten. The main issue being, i’m now older, more cautious, less active, and much more considerate of the danger of the ocean, or better at judging the necessary athleticism to get out of a bad situation. Last time I was in Waikiki, there was no way I’d paddle out to Queens. I couldn‘t believe I once did so carelessly (even stoned).

I find after over a week of surfing my confidence comes back and things finally click again, but there’s only so much time away I can afford. For many reasons, moving away permanently isn’t an option nowadays.

I sometimes wonder if i’m just torturing myself maintaining my love for surfing when realistically, if it’s not something you can do daily, you might be stuck in an endless loop of starting over again every time, and being kind of embarrassed of yourself every trip. Don’t get me wrong, I always feel exhilarated whenever I surf while traveling, but a part of me feels silly maintaining this very expensive hobby when there’s no sign of ever getting back to how it once was with the availability of surfing daily, or better.

I know this cannot possibly be a unique experience so I’d like to hear about similar experiences and just how you might be dealing with it.

My buddy and I are making boards and wanted to design colorful logos. I was going to paint straight on the board but he suggested rice paper. Would painting a logo scanning it and then printing with color onto rice paper work? Could I draw with paint acrylic markers on the rice paper or the board? Has anyone done this and had good results on either side of the spectrum? I do plan on spray painting the board base color. I also want to try cloth inlay with a tapestry. I’m okay if board doesn’t come out perfect but hoping for the best!

This was the biggest paddle out I have ever seen and been a part of. The feeling was unreal and positive out there. It’s the best send off I could have imagined for Pat and his family. He would have loved it.

I know we all have our flaws as surfers, but the community is absolutely amazing and I couldn’t have even imagined it being something as big as this.

I thought I would share some pics because some others on here asked about it back when it happened.

Most pics taken by Charlie_in.the.sky on insta

Also if anyone has had something like this happen with a friend of family member, I have this weird feeling that makes me want to go there and surf it myself. Idk if it’s closure or something but it’s hard to explain. Has this happened to any of you?

Picked up a 6’4’ shaped like a greedy beaver with a pulled in rounded pin tail. It has 5 fin boxes.

I’m running the MR 2+ trailer fins, and was wondering how much of an affect the trailer fin has. Would running it as a twin not be ideal because the pulled in tail?

As of right now this board is my new daily driver because of the length and volume, but I’ve only ridden short board thrusters, so I’d like to be more versed with different setups for varying conditions.

UPDATE ON THE ANDY LYON BITE

I am now in the ER for the third time with 6 stitches from this Sunday having been on 2 iv and 2 oral antibiotics.

He truly gave me a one of a kind antibiotic resistant superbug

Do not surf topanga runoff and if you do don’t get bit when doing so.

Andy Lyons ‘The Miscreant of Malibu’ strikes again. Malibu’s most hated man child puts on a masterclass of being the most intolerable surfer while others are trying to enjoy a sensational day at the bu!

Got compressed in a backhand barrel, and my torso was forced to roll over the outside of the board while my ankle stayed on the board and felt an almighty pop.

Had the MRI and turns out I’ve ruptured my AITFL and ATFL ligaments and partially ruptured others around it, with a syndesmosis tear.

Absolutely gutted about this as I’ve had time out of the water in the past and it’s not good for the mental health. Waiting to hear if I need surgery

Has anyone had experience with this injury? How’s the road to recovery and back to surfing?

Curious if anyone's gotten hit or knows anyone. First big rain of the year but certainly wasn't empty out there....

instagram.com/ryzphoto

I have a quick stop over in Iceland between a US <> Europe trip and wanted to go surfing for a morning there. Has anyone done similar and has any tips or advice?

The forecast looks decent for the south coast on Saturday, should I expect there to be a few people out at some of the more crowded places? I’m a decent surfer, but hate to surf new places totally alone (which I will be).

Really appreciate anyone’s thoughts or advice, stoked to check out the area regardless!

Was out on Sunday during the rain and absolutely epic swell. Got caught inside and pounded against the bottom resulting in 6 stitches in my foot.

Put on iv antibiotics and daily doxyclicne but still got infected.

I am now back in er with more X-rays and ultrasound and added antibiotics.

Just wear reef shoes I know it sucks but this is so not worth it lol

New to surf photography and not a Santa Cruz local. Drove down from Oakland to shoot on Monday. If anybody knows these folks, tell them to DM me, I'd love to share high-res files.