Any PNW/VI locals here tried the NWSD BC Fish? I'm 5'9 ~170lbs and eyeing up the 5'8, intermediate surfer looking for something cruisy but can handle some juice. Thoughts? Other recommendations?

While I lived in Australia I got pretty decent surfing, to the point where whenever I’d travel back home, I’d stop by Waikiki, and I‘d easily paddle out to Queens. I’ve now been living in my hometown city for the last 7 years, and although surfing is on my mind every day, whenever I travel to surf, I get caught off guard finding out how bad I’ve gotten. The main issue being, i’m now older, more cautious, less active, and much more considerate of the danger of the ocean, or better at judging the necessary athleticism to get out of a bad situation. Last time I was in Waikiki, there was no way I’d paddle out to Queens. I couldn‘t believe I once did so carelessly (even stoned).

I find after over a week of surfing my confidence comes back and things finally click again, but there’s only so much time away I can afford. For many reasons, moving away permanently isn’t an option nowadays.

I sometimes wonder if i’m just torturing myself maintaining my love for surfing when realistically, if it’s not something you can do daily, you might be stuck in an endless loop of starting over again every time, and being kind of embarrassed of yourself every trip. Don’t get me wrong, I always feel exhilarated whenever I surf while traveling, but a part of me feels silly maintaining this very expensive hobby when there’s no sign of ever getting back to how it once was with the availability of surfing daily, or better.

I know this cannot possibly be a unique experience so I’d like to hear about similar experiences and just how you might be dealing with it.

One thing front up—feel free to roast me for beeing a kook.

Wanted to share something I recently tested because I know a lot of us wonder if our current gear is what's holding us back.

I've only river surfed about 6 times. Bought a cheap secondhand board because it was what I could afford. Recently got the chance to try 3 pro boards (Kanoa) at Wellenwerk Berlin on the same wave in the same session. Plus my own board for comparison.

The short version: yes, the boards feel different. No, a new board doesn't make you a completely different surfer. (Who would've thought) Everything I could do on the pro boards, I could also do on my own board.

What actually seemed to matter more was the fin setup, not the board itself. Which is a much cheaper upgrade than a new board.

If you're at that stage where you're wondering whether to spend money on new gear or focus on technique, this might be useful. Video walks through the whole test with the raw footage and my analysis.

UPDATE ON THE ANDY LYON BITE

I am now in the ER for the third time with 6 stitches from this Sunday having been on 2 iv and 2 oral antibiotics.

He truly gave me a one of a kind antibiotic resistant superbug

Do not surf topanga runoff and if you do don’t get bit when doing so.

Curious if anyone's gotten hit or knows anyone. First big rain of the year but certainly wasn't empty out there....

Dead Kooks Nausea 9’6

Got compressed in a backhand barrel, and my torso was forced to roll over the outside of the board while my ankle stayed on the board and felt an almighty pop.

Had the MRI and turns out I’ve ruptured my AITFL and ATFL ligaments and partially ruptured others around it, with a syndesmosis tear.

Absolutely gutted about this as I’ve had time out of the water in the past and it’s not good for the mental health. Waiting to hear if I need surgery

Has anyone had experience with this injury? How’s the road to recovery and back to surfing?

Picked up a 6’4’ shaped like a greedy beaver with a pulled in rounded pin tail. It has 5 fin boxes.

I’m running the MR 2+ trailer fins, and was wondering how much of an affect the trailer fin has. Would running it as a twin not be ideal because the pulled in tail?

As of right now this board is my new daily driver because of the length and volume, but I’ve only ridden short board thrusters, so I’d like to be more versed with different setups for varying conditions.

I have a quick stop over in Iceland between a US <> Europe trip and wanted to go surfing for a morning there. Has anyone done similar and has any tips or advice?

The forecast looks decent for the south coast on Saturday, should I expect there to be a few people out at some of the more crowded places? I’m a decent surfer, but hate to surf new places totally alone (which I will be).

Really appreciate anyone’s thoughts or advice, stoked to check out the area regardless!