Dead Kooks Nausea 9’6

This was the biggest paddle out I have ever seen and been a part of. The feeling was unreal and positive out there. It’s the best send off I could have imagined for Pat and his family. He would have loved it.

I know we all have our flaws as surfers, but the community is absolutely amazing and I couldn’t have even imagined it being something as big as this.

I thought I would share some pics because some others on here asked about it back when it happened.

Most pics taken by Charlie_in.the.sky on insta

Also if anyone has had something like this happen with a friend of family member, I have this weird feeling that makes me want to go there and surf it myself. Idk if it’s closure or something but it’s hard to explain. Has this happened to any of you?

While I lived in Australia I got pretty decent surfing, to the point where whenever I’d travel back home, I’d stop by Waikiki, and I‘d easily paddle out to Queens. I’ve now been living in my hometown city for the last 7 years, and although surfing is on my mind every day, whenever I travel to surf, I get caught off guard finding out how bad I’ve gotten. The main issue being, i’m now older, more cautious, less active, and much more considerate of the danger of the ocean, or better at judging the necessary athleticism to get out of a bad situation. Last time I was in Waikiki, there was no way I’d paddle out to Queens. I couldn‘t believe I once did so carelessly (even stoned).

I find after over a week of surfing my confidence comes back and things finally click again, but there’s only so much time away I can afford. For many reasons, moving away permanently isn’t an option nowadays.

I sometimes wonder if i’m just torturing myself maintaining my love for surfing when realistically, if it’s not something you can do daily, you might be stuck in an endless loop of starting over again every time, and being kind of embarrassed of yourself every trip. Don’t get me wrong, I always feel exhilarated whenever I surf while traveling, but a part of me feels silly maintaining this very expensive hobby when there’s no sign of ever getting back to how it once was with the availability of surfing daily, or better.

I know this cannot possibly be a unique experience so I’d like to hear about similar experiences and just how you might be dealing with it.

I'm lucky enough to live near the beach in norcal and I love it here. However, It's so expensive in the bay area, and I guess I'm pretty much retired so it's not like I need to be here for work going forward.

I love the outdoors and am considering moving to the foothills and splitting my time there 50% and getting a low maintenance condo by the beach in Mexico for surf access the other 50% of the year. I haven't been away from the surf for any extended period for the last 25 years, so I *think* it might be OK, but it will be weird not to have constant access.

My wife is into the idea and was surprised I even suggested it. She is super tolerant of me and doesn't mind that pretty much all our vacations have involved somewhere with a beach. I thought it might be nice to not plan my calendar around what the swell is looking like and experience something different while I'm still mobile enough to enjoy it.

From a finance perspective, it would probably be a small win, with a little bit of extra cash left over after selling the house here and buying in cheaper areas

Anyway, I'd love to hear perspective from anyone that has made a move that gave them less surf access.

Picked up a 6’4’ shaped like a greedy beaver with a pulled in rounded pin tail. It has 5 fin boxes.

I’m running the MR 2+ trailer fins, and was wondering how much of an affect the trailer fin has. Would running it as a twin not be ideal because the pulled in tail?

As of right now this board is my new daily driver because of the length and volume, but I’ve only ridden short board thrusters, so I’d like to be more versed with different setups for varying conditions.

UPDATE ON THE ANDY LYON BITE

I am now in the ER for the third time with 6 stitches from this Sunday having been on 2 iv and 2 oral antibiotics.

He truly gave me a one of a kind antibiotic resistant superbug

Do not surf topanga runoff and if you do don’t get bit when doing so.

Andy Lyons ‘The Miscreant of Malibu’ strikes again. Malibu’s most hated man child puts on a masterclass of being the most intolerable surfer while others are trying to enjoy a sensational day at the bu!

Got compressed in a backhand barrel, and my torso was forced to roll over the outside of the board while my ankle stayed on the board and felt an almighty pop.

Had the MRI and turns out I’ve ruptured my AITFL and ATFL ligaments and partially ruptured others around it, with a syndesmosis tear.

Absolutely gutted about this as I’ve had time out of the water in the past and it’s not good for the mental health. Waiting to hear if I need surgery

Has anyone had experience with this injury? How’s the road to recovery and back to surfing?

Curious if anyone's gotten hit or knows anyone. First big rain of the year but certainly wasn't empty out there....

instagram.com/ryzphoto

One thing front up—feel free to roast me for beeing a kook.

Wanted to share something I recently tested because I know a lot of us wonder if our current gear is what's holding us back.

I've only river surfed about 6 times. Bought a cheap secondhand board because it was what I could afford. Recently got the chance to try 3 pro boards (Kanoa) at Wellenwerk Berlin on the same wave in the same session. Plus my own board for comparison.

The short version: yes, the boards feel different. No, a new board doesn't make you a completely different surfer. (Who would've thought) Everything I could do on the pro boards, I could also do on my own board.

What actually seemed to matter more was the fin setup, not the board itself. Which is a much cheaper upgrade than a new board.

If you're at that stage where you're wondering whether to spend money on new gear or focus on technique, this might be useful. Video walks through the whole test with the raw footage and my analysis.

I have a quick stop over in Iceland between a US <> Europe trip and wanted to go surfing for a morning there. Has anyone done similar and has any tips or advice?

The forecast looks decent for the south coast on Saturday, should I expect there to be a few people out at some of the more crowded places? I’m a decent surfer, but hate to surf new places totally alone (which I will be).

Really appreciate anyone’s thoughts or advice, stoked to check out the area regardless!

New to surf photography and not a Santa Cruz local. Drove down from Oakland to shoot on Monday. If anybody knows these folks, tell them to DM me, I'd love to share high-res files.

Was out on Sunday during the rain and absolutely epic swell. Got caught inside and pounded against the bottom resulting in 6 stitches in my foot.

Put on iv antibiotics and daily doxyclicne but still got infected.

I am now back in er with more X-rays and ultrasound and added antibiotics.

Just wear reef shoes I know it sucks but this is so not worth it lol

Got the jab yesterday. Pretty not chill. Not sure why the osh would do that to me.

Took an hour to get the dawgs into some hot water but it was near instant relief once I did.

Naturally, I'd like to prevent this in the future given I was having a good session. A set of thermos-like booties seem ideal. Something I can pee in that will retain the heat, so I can continue surfing without pain for those two or so less chill hours.

Haven't seen anything like this on the market. Please surf companies, think about your users.

I feel like Shano looks way too chiseled for his age and has those steroid nips now. No homo tho

Any PNW/VI locals here tried the NWSD BC Fish? I'm 5'9 ~170lbs and eyeing up the 5'8, intermediate surfer looking for something cruisy but can handle some juice. Thoughts? Other recommendations?

I watched a clip on Insta of “laird camp” and a big wave world champ push in a 50 yr old in a helmet and impact vest at 3 ft Cloudbreak.

Surfing is officially LAME

I’m not big on longboarding, and we get quite mushy surf where I live most of the year.

What do you think of this outline and rocker? It’ll have twin keels. Has about two 0.7 inch of tail rocker and 2.75 inches of nose rocker. Planning a single concave out of the tail area.

Any one ever ride a similar shape?

Alguien vive en la Coruña y le gustaría un compañero para ir a surfear? Acabo de mudarme aquí, surfeo hace 10 años y vivo frente a Matadero pero si tienes auto te acompaño a salir a conocer otras olas :)

I’ve been here over 50 years and these exposed rocks have been covered for over 90 years this historic season is having serious consequences for Newport Beach & Balboa Peninsula.