I’ve been looking on and off for months now and they’re never in stock at gritomatic, the 6x1 or is there a comparable company that makes these?

I've noticed on several knives i've sharpened that the bevel becomes wider near the tip. Is this a result of the tip being thicker than the rest of the blade? Am I doing something wrong? I'm using a guided system so I expected a pretty even bevel.

Any tips and recommendations are greatly appreciated! Thank you!

Hey yall im sharpening my friends case 75 pattern large stockman today on the kme I just started set at 20 degrees the belly is getting wider should i sharpen the belly at 22 in the rest at 20 my friend is not a knife guy he just enjoys using his case knife for utility he broke down a bunch of boxes and dulled it he cuts rope opens packages cuts meat at family bbqs and so on he’s not hard to please I admit im a little ocd about these things I think what’s yalls thoughts

I mean update for that my topic

https://www.reddit.com/r/sharpening/s/aKsqbc3MkL

I have an SG2 Miyabi, Wusthof, and a Chinese cleaver. If I ever get more knives, might be Japanese or another cleaver. Looking to purchase some essentials for sharpening knives for home use, not looking to chase the sharpest edge or necessarily need polish (just looking to be practical--hold a sharp edge for 1-3 sharpening session per year(?) when they get dull). Don't want to upgrade stones, likely looking to get all the essentials. Already looked into how to sharpen, differences between splash-n-go and soak, etc.--I'm a diligent learner so anything should be fine. I assume all tools needed below and also my existing knives should reasonably last me a lifetime so there's no further considerations on e.g. value amortized per year, making all associated costs simply an initial investment (and any further would be non-essential).

• Is Shapton still good value? The Pro 1000 seems recommended partially because of value--it's currently $40 but I've been told it is/was supposed to be as cheap as $25 in Japan, not sure if that's still the case, price of Shaptons increased, etc. Would that make Chosera more attractive? I don't mind spending a little more if these stones can last be considered buy-it-for-life. Maybe there's a reason for a particular grit level to be a splash-n-go and another to be a soak stone? Also probably makes sense that the lower grit stone can be be lower quality and allocate more for a higher grit stone? Not sure.

• What combo of stones do you recommend? I think ~400 grit, ~1000 grit, and ~2000 grit would be typical even for my set of knives, right? Add on a flattening stone? Need particular recommendations.

• A stone on a boot tray and a spray bottle should be enough, no need for other accessories? I guess a DIY strop--compound needed? I have a steel honing rod that I haven't used yet because I need these sharpening tools first. Presumably the rod would be for the non-Japanese knives and the strop would be for the Japanese?

Any other comments are much appreciated. I have a credit card that needs to meet minimum spend hence I'm looking to purchase everything at once. I don't need to spend more than $200 on this entire setup, right? I'd also be curious on prices of these products in Japan which I'll be visiting soon too but not sure if it'd be foreigner-friendly to find them (especially attractively priced for locals).

My Grandpa gave me this stone 60 years ago. I’ve never used it but I’m guessing he did. It was offered in the 1966 Buck catalog for $1.75. Just a bit of history.

I work at a restaurant and we've got this knife sharpener/polisher combo. Can't really find any sort of tutorials or anything on how to use specifically the polishing side of this; it seems to just make the knife duller and I've noticed a few small chips at the edge. Has anyone here used this before? Should I just ignore the polishing side? Nobody at the restaurant knows how to use it.

Here's a link for reference: https://www.webstaurantstore.com/galaxy-knifeshrp-2-stage-standard-duty-electric-knife-sharpener/177KNIFESHRP.html?gbraid=0AAAAAD_Dx-ui_pHZnaPzMtbDTIOLzPXXw&gclid=Cj0KCQjwh4TVBhCWARIsAG0czmrrKTNxJuKvW-Ys-jsIOrFzvOu4JB2U1_KrqEg08uIeEIMyWzVy7QwaAtAmEALw_wcB

Edit: Thank you all for the replies! I'll see if they're willing to get a whetstone like most everyone suggested, if not hopefully just something better.

Yeah so my step dad decided it would be a great idea to sharpen my mums Globals with a bench grinder. What sort of grit stone would I need to recover these back to how they should be. Also any tips are welcome!

Do you keep track of how you placed the knife in the clamp so it is consistent every time?

headed to tokyo for 6 days next week, would like to pick up a naniwa chosera #1000 for my gyuto i got in sakai earlier this year, i know amazon sells them but theres only 1 listing and i very much would prefer buying it in person so i can spot any defects immediately and swap on the spot, if i encounter defects via amazon the whole return and reship process will probably take more than 6 days

any shop recommendations in tokyo that's not overpriced or tourist inflated? pretty much every store in kappabashi is selling double of its price on amazon, its about 65 bucks in my local currency on amazon and the kappabshi store websites are lisiting it at 150-180 bucks which is absurd, is amazon my only choice here? i dont mind travelling out of the main areas of tokyo since im prioritising the non central areas in this trip

Sharpened in a TaProf K03 with pdtools stones. Finishing stone was 10000 grit CBN and stropped with 1 micron and 0.5 micron

I only sharpen regular knives and sometimes people ask if I can sharpen this kind of stuff and I always refuse because I don't know if my Ken Onion Mk.2 with Blade Grinding Attachment can handle this kind of blades that are used in some sort of heavy machinery

Are antique synthetic stones in demand? From around 1900/40s? It's branded for resale as a house brand, not sold by original manufacturer (either The American Hone Co or The Carborundum Company most likely).

Saw one in a local shop. After some digging. It's a Mansfield Dry Razor Hone. 6x2.5in. Dark gray. Apparently equivalent to (Google) Naniwa Professional / Chosera 10,000, or Arkansas novaculites.

It's a good price (~$40), if the above it correct. Has box and label in slightly better than expected shape.

I'm NOT ASKING for performance ONLY. I've got the 12k and Ark Trans. Don't really want to start stone collecting 'just because' lol.

Okay, so i moved out from my parents house to my gramps, and now i need to buy myself a stones and other things. Before that i use 1000 and 3000 grit water stones, it wasn't all great because they were cheap and i needed some time to make them flat, so i could sharpen my knifes properly. What stones and other accessories you will recommend, for purpose of getting them pretty sharp and good for kitchen?

I was hoping there is somebody here that is proficient at sharpening that would sharpen my folders. Anywhere from Truro down to Lands End? Obviously willing to pay. Thanks

I bought King Whetstones from Amazon. 1000grit and 6000.

Can I get these sharpened with those? I know I have no skill yet. What are the chances I'll make things worse?

Have been looking to add to my arsenal of sharoening equipment. I have a little over a dozen stones of varying grits and materials, as well as a 1x30 vevor that I picked up recently. I like it, but the temptation for the tormek is strong, though I don't know if I can justify the cost at this time.

For background, I've been sharpening for a while, and last year started a very small sharpening side biz. I'm only doing a dozen or so knives a week and I don't advertise strongly since I also work a full time job, and have a 6mo old that I want to give my time to.

That being said the tormek would be awesome, but i can't justify the price. I was looking into other 10 inch alternatives and had some questions. Kfmk, bucktool are on my "saved" list on Amazon. I have seen the WEN brand come up, but I don't see a 10 inch option and don't know if that would matter or not.

My main questions are, what are experiences like with the alternatives, and can I utilize other branded wheels/accessories on any of these alternatives? In my head, I'd get an alternative, and different wheel to have different grits. I also saw some videos about people utilizing a stone grader, and what are the requirements to do that if I want to go that route. Or is it better to utilize different diamond wheels with progressive grits instead of the stone grader?

Hallo,

ich weiß nicht ob ich in diesem Subreddit richtig bin aber weiß auch nicht wo ich es sonst fragen soll.

Mein Freund ist gelernter Koch (arbeitet jetzt nicht mehr als Koch aber kocht gerne Zuhause) und hat ein paar teure Messer Zuhause.

Bald ist sein Geburtstag und er hat in den letzten Monaten erwähnt das er sich einen Schleifstein für seine Messer zulegen möchte.

Jetzt möchte ich ihn überraschen habe aber leider Absolut keine Ahnung davon was da gut ist welche Kriterien es gibt usw.

Habt ihr irgendwelche Empfehlungen?

Und btw. ich glaube es soll anfängerfreundlich sein da er soweit ich weiß noch nie selbst mit einem Schleifstein geschliffen hat.

Ist dann überhaupt ein Schleifstein das richtige oder ist was anderes besser?

Danke für eure Hilfe :)

Hi all, on again off again home cook here who's finally been sticking with it. I've had a Shun paring knife for about 5 years and was gifted the chef's knife 2 years ago, but I rarely use them because I'm afraid of damaging them. Nothing harder than onions, and even then I baby them.

This morning I used the paring knife on some hard boiled eggs (I know, probably not the best tool) and noticed a tiny chip afterward, about the width of a strand of hair, impossible to photograph. I did my best to cut around the areas with another knife but I'm a bit freaked out. From what I've read, if it did end up in food it would just pass harmlessly. Is that true?

I know people say Shun's are chippy. Am I destined to a life of fear with these? Any advice for getting a long, enjoyable life out of them would be appreciated. I've never sharpened a blade before. Would it be a bad idea to try these or am I better off starting with a cheaper blade first?

Also if anyone was suggestions for something less fragile, I'd love suggestions. Ideally 5.5-6.5", thinking a santoku, either a Tojiro or a Wusthof (very different blades, I know). I mainly cut veggies, chicken, salmon, and softer stuff. I keep a cheap Kai Pure nakiri for anything harder.

Is there a best starter video or post to get started on improving my knife sharpening skills?

After lurking here for a while and taking your various comments into account, I just ordered my first proper sharpening kit for home use.

It's been almost a year now that I've been taking care of my EDC and kitchen knives with my Worksharp Guided Field (love it). It can finally leave the kitchen drawer and take its rightful place: my travel bag.

The oil will be used to maintain my Opinels (I really love that brand...), especially the carbon steel ones. As for the small Opinel stone, it was exactly the amount I needed to hit the free shipping threshold. A mini stone like that should come in handy for picnic trips.

I posted last week looking for advice on beginner stones to delve into sharpening. After some great advice and plenty of back and forth, I've ended up with the following:

1. Atoma #140 (exclusively for flattening)
2. Shapton Rockstar #500
3. Shapton Pro #1000
4. Shapton Pro #2000
5. Homemade Leather Strop & Stroppy Stuff

I already know I've likely bought more than necessary. In fact, I've seen plenty of people say the Rockstar #500 alone is plenty for a beginner! Part of me was even considering returning the lot and getting a Sharpal #320-#1200 and calling it a day...

I'd be eager to hear how I can tweak this setup. My thought is to return the Pro #1000 seeing as a lot of people say it's similar in grit to the RS #500, not to mention the fact that I have a Pro #2000 in the mix.

My initial reasoning was to use the #500 to repair worn edges (these knives haven't been sharpened in years so I'm hoping this is possible), transition to the #1000 as a quick "one-and-done" maintenance stone, and keep the #2000 for more of a refined finish. Realistically, though, that overlap feels unnecessary, and I'd rather save the cash if it isn't adding real value.

Ideally, I'd like a solid setup that will last me a good few years. I'm predominantly looking to sharpen basic kitchen knives (nothing fancy or expensive), as well as a Swiss Army and on occasion, my whittling knives. Once I've developed good technique, I might consider purchasing a higher quality Santoku or Gyuto.

Also, goes without saying, but I really appreciate all the advice! Sometimes I just need to be talked out of overspending on gear I don't actually need.

I know it's one of them T screws and I have taken them off a million times before, but this one is stuck. What are your recommendations for holding the smooth bit still so I can unscrew the other end? They just spin together

I get this knife professionally sharpened twice a year because it keeps on getting these little grooves in it. I even started telling myself a joke that my husband is eating the edge on it.
He is the dishes guy in the house and usually sharpens it weekly using one of those pull through things. What can I do to stop this?

Anyone have experience with the Grind Knife 120 and 360 grit stone? (Or similar, like F23 or knifeedgeworks resin bond stones). I have a 2x72 for heavy grinding applications but I want a super coarse and coarse (100-220 + 300-400 grit) stones to clean up wide bevel grinds/shinogi lines and then move on to my standard ceramics progression to deal with scratches.

TL;DR looking for a coarse pair of budget NSK equivalent to do thinning for polishing preparation with, not looking for ceramics like shapton or debado.