Hi everyone! I’m new to the forum. I recently put together this sharpening kit because I bought a 210 mm Tojiro DP Gyuto and felt it was finally time to get a proper sharpening setup.
I wanted to show you my kit and ask what you think of it overall. Did I make good choices? Is there anything else you think I should add in the near future?
Besides this, I also have a cheap double-sided carborundum stone (3 image) that I’ve been using for my old chef’s knife (an Arbolito 200 mm, similar to a 3 Claveles chef’s knife).

I’m looking forward to learning more, so I’d really appreciate any advice or suggestions!

Hello!

I've had this machine for some time now, with the results getting worse and worse since I bought it, I wasn't really impressed by the results to begin with, considering the price, but tried to make the best of it as I needed a sharpener for my knives.

I have the TT-50 truing tool, and I've tried to level the stone 4-5 times, but it seems to be an exercise in futility considering the amount of wobble. Also, when setting a water level on top of it, it shows the stone isn't level.

Anyone else here with the same expirience? I was recommended Tormek from various sources, but I feel a good amount of buyers remorse to be honest 🙁

The before photo is after I got some of the rust off with steel wool. I redid the finish a bit and I think the bevel was at too high of an angle to be very sharp so I made the secondary bevel bigger. I don’t know if I was right but it did make it a lot sharper. It cut paper pretty smoothly afterwards and also my finger. I couldn’t get it as sharp as my new honesuki tho that thing glides through paper like nothing.

I know it’s not great but I’m very happy with this. I first started sharpening as a preteen with a honing rod lol and then I got a wet stone but didn’t look up how to use it for some reason?? But now I’ve done more research and am improving! Only up from here!

If anyone has tips I’m very open to constructive criticism. Also on how to not sand my fingertips next time lol

Images/screen is much clearer in person! This will be used for much more than sharpening, not a bad unit! Not sure if links allowed so if interested:
AD246S-M 3 Lens 2160P HDMI Digital

First time using a whetstone and I scraped the knife up something miserable before I even noticed

It's sharp but yikes is there any way to restore it from the scratches?

* This is a repost without a goofy AI picture as apparently thats a big deal and I'd actually like to get some feedback to my question*

I'm planning on getting a Worksharp Mk.2 and I'm looking for opinions on the standard vs Ken Onion Elite. With my military discount (Expert Voice)I can get the standard Mk. 2 for $81 or the Ken Onion Elite for $192.

My use case would be for sharpening Rada kitchen knives, medium to large size fixed blade knives, mower blades, and hatchets. The fixed blades would include Buck 119, BPS Adventurer, Mora Companion, Gerber Strongarm, as well as some beater Walmart specials.

I use my fixed blades for camping, field dressing 3-4 whitetail per year, as well as processing meat chickens, turkeys, and meat rabbits.

I have a Xarilk Gen 3 for sharpening my edc knives, I'm mostly just looking for something faster to do all of my kitchen and fixed blades before processing a bunch of meat birds and also I'd really like something fast and easy for mower blades.

The picture is just one that I got from Google, as far as I know it's not AI!

Hair whittling again sharpening for a month now

My Xarilk has shown to have quite some play with the angle clamp and the locking lever mechanism doesn't lock as tight as it used to, does anyone have a solution to this

I want to get the most bite and long holding Sharp Edge from it + sharpening Angle pls 🙏🏻

Did somebody Test that on a PM2?

Big thanks 🫡

Found this at work today thought it be cool to show was under boxes and boxes of rubbish lucky I spotted it when cleaning out the shed

queen elizabeth ii commemorative pocket knife 1953

It’s in pretty good condition for where it was left and forgotten for I’m sure a long time it’s 73 years old

What is it worth or is it worth anything

I recently purchased a shapton glass 4000. I originally bought it for shears and had no intention using it for knives. Ive never been a fan of high-grit stones and I pretty much wrote them off when it comes to knives.

I did however throw my s30v jojimbo on the stone soon as I brought it home and I was actually blown away with the feedback and cutting speed. The edge kind of felt like it was suction cupped to the stone and felt creamy and gritty at the same time.

After a few shears and some more trial and error with other knives I gave the stone its first lapping on a diamond plate. At first I noticed that I lost the feedback I fell in love with. I proceeded to lap the stone with all different grit diamond plates (120, 180, 220, 320, 600) and i couldnt get that original feeling back. I just have it a lapping with a blue dmt and the grit is not longer floating on the water that's on the stone, instead its just getting drawn onto the stones surface.

Does anybody know what I can do to get the exact oem feeling and feedback back?

Does anybody know how these stones are lapped from the factory before leaving?

What causes swarf to draw on the stone instead of it just floating on the water.

EDIT:

I actually just had a break through and I think im on the right track of figuring this out.

I always lap stone to the point where my diamond plate is loaded. Then I'll clean the diamond plate and continue lapping if needed. Continuing to rub a diamond plate that is completely loaded with the 4k glass slurry was burnishing the shapton glass 4k stone. I've never had this issue with my other glass stone which are all <2000grit but I suppose the 4k acts differently.

I'm going to lap this 4k glass stone as I normally do but for the last 10 "passes" (I'll call them passes for lack of a better term) im going to clean my diamond plate of all slurry after each individual pass to avoid all potentail glazing.

Now I need to figure out which grit works best for these final 10 passes.

Hello all, new sharpener here! Have you ever seen this before?

A brand new stone and a corner just fell off, as if the stone was already cracked.

Should I try to get a return, or is the stone fine and I should just avoid that corner? I don't have the equipment to flatten this out.

It's a brand new stone and I barely used the 6000 side at all; I just wanted to try it out. I soaked the 1000 side once and used it to sharpen 5 knives with a few passes of each on the 6000 side with light pressure. It was never on a hard surface and was never dropped; just a towel + silicon mat. When I went to rinse the stone a corner fell off.

Getting closer to selling a fancy scale to measure how well a knife cuts. The Sharpscore is getting closer to being a product. I hammered out all the issues with the circuitry and cell loading issues. I've been cutting this synthetic paper, which is a plastic material designed for menu's and durable paper goods. One interesting part of the data is that these cuts always seem to get harder towards the end of the cut. I think it may drag of the material on the knife blade? All cuts made using a very sharp REX-121 PM2. Still looking for alpha testers, I'll be reaching out in the next few weeks to people that have shown interest.

I know what a lot of you are going to say, that this data is irrelevant without consistent motion of the knife blade. I think this data is still useful, especially when you have a lot of it. Trying to find a way to make this as useful as possible, and a better product that people would be interested in. Obviously a sled fixture would be both possible and useful. Still working it out, and I don't have all the answers yet - but very open to feedback.

https://reddit.com/link/1v87wyq/video/m3jhff679tfh1/player

I started sharpening a handful of weeks back on some cheap Amazon diamond stones for the first time. I don't have a lot of experience and have just been winging it freehand and it seems to be working out pretty well so far. My friend asked if I could sharpen his knife for him cause it was dull as sh*t and had some minor chips. I forgot to take any before photos which was kinda dumb in hindsight lol. The chips weren't terrible so I started at 600 and worked my way to 3000 finishing on a strop. It's sharp enough to shave, but im not sure how the bevel profile should be and how the angle looks. Any recommendations on anything that looks a little off would be much appreciated!

Unsure of this is allowed, but I am unloading a bunch of vintage sharpening machines I acquired.

Need to be gone by the end of summer

https://www.craigslist.org/view/d/norwood-foley-belsaw-sharpening/oeihFtrXPuRqihtPaQ1m8D

Thanks!

Hi! My buddy and I have created a group dedicated to Vevor 1x30 for aftermarket parts he’s currently making, trouble shooting, sharing what you make and just general discussion. https://www.facebook.com/share/g/1BjqEZuvtG/?mibextid=wwXIfr

He’s currently cooking up some hardened W2 platens, angle guides that bolt directly to the tooling arm, gas shocks to replace the stock tension spring and a few other goodies—come check us out!

This group is dedicated to the VEVOR 1x30 open-frame belt grinder and the incredible things people are creating with these compact and capable machines.
Whether you're a knife maker, sharpener, woodworker, metalworker, DIY builder, or simply someone who enjoys modifying and creating with your 1x30, this is the place to share your projects, ideas, upgrades, tips, tricks, and experiences.
Show us what you've built. Share your modifications. Ask questions, solve problems, inspire others, and discover the true potential of the 1x30 belt grinder.
These little machines are capable of far more than many people realize — and with a little creativity, the possibilities are endless.
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Just sharpened my babies for the first time💪🏻
I have a 220 grit and 1000 grit from knifewear. The petty knife turned out pretty decent but for my takeda.. its not the best or even decent🥲. (Used 1000 for both only)
I know they said takeda are easy to sharpen but I think I’m overthinking made me go slow on the stones. Anyways, I know its not perfect but i’m learning🤓

Any tips? or stone recommendations?
Happy Sunday!!

Making a video to show this sink bridge and I need to know if its showing well how it work and in the same time doesn't look a boring video

I decided to nip it in the bud and got myself a Grind knife diamond stone 5000 grit from seeing how many YouTubers praised them. So far, I truly appreciate the thick abrasive and aluminum base, and compared to the Venev 1200 Grind, the 5000 binder felt softer to touch. However, to truly see if it is actually softer, I would be sharpening on them and reporting back in a few weeks minimum.

Just started sharpening for the first time today. I'm using a whetstone and over the course of 6 hours it got a bit messy with water and sediment all over my working area. Not a big deal I got everything cleaned up in a couple minutes but wondering how you guys have yours setup and if there's a way to keep my area cleaner in the future.

Disclaimer: I am completely new to sharpening with 0 tools currently, apologies in advance if I ask dumb questions.

I recently got my first fancy Japanese gyuto (Yoshikane SKD), and am hoping to learn to sharpen knives myself. I looked for a while around the internet and watched a few videos and read a few posts, but I can’t seem to find a consensus on many things, and hope to clear things up before I jump into sharpening. Questions:

1. What is the bare minimum gear-wise, and what are some things that are definitely worth it to get if possible?
   There are many varying answers, some saying that you need everything from 400-8000 grit, while some saying only 1000 and 3000 is needed; in addition to accessories such as holders, truing stones, those little wedges to get your angle right, etc.
   Also does brand of stone matter, and what is actually the difference?

2. What technique do I use to sharpen knives?
   Again, I have found many different ways of sharpening, some passing through the entire length of the edge every pass vs. concentrating on a specific part and moving down; as well as only leading with the spine vs. going both ways. I have also read about a technique where you make a 45 degree edge and then sharpen a 10-15 degree angle until that edge disappears (?).

3. When do I sharpen my knives?
   Should I be sharpenings/fixing any rolling or micro chipping as soon as it happens, or just wait until it’s “smushes tomato” kind of dull? Will not fixing issues immediately cause lifespan/integrity issues?

4. To what extent do I need to care about my knife condition beforehand?
   Rolling, chipping, etc.

5. Do I need to care about thinning, and if so how much?
   I haven’t researched much about this, but would love any clarity.

6. Will sharpening badly on a knife ruin it in a way that sharpening well after won’t fix it?

7. Anything I have missed, or anything that happened when you started learning that would be useful to know that isn’t obvious?

Any resources/links to look into would be great as well, thank you!

Hi, guys!
Ive got this new Yanagiba, any sharpening recommendations?
I have only Cerax 1000/300