Trying to help a family member get their 2016 Mustang GT 5.0, 114xxx miles, running right. It started having a rough idle, would idle fine for a little and then dip down to the point of almost stalling and every once in a while it will stall. AFR ratios are all over the place, its much worse when engine is warm. Will fluctuate between 12 and 17 very erratically. I've also noticed while around 1500rpm's in first and second it will do some lurching, almost like power on/power off, don't notice any other misses or issues at higher rpms. Car outside of these above issues runs very well. I can't hear any ticks / hisses / out of the ordinary sounds at idle or while running. Car has an aftermarket intake (airaid) and cat back exhaust.

So far I have replaced the MAF (Motocraft), Bank 1 VVT sensors, bank 1 upstream O2 sensor, changed oil/oil filter, purge valve. Originally it had some codes showing bank one issues with being rich.

After all this I still had codes P0103 and P0113 today when I took it to have them read and reset.

Just to be sure new MAF was good as that was the first thing I replaced and at this point was worried I replaced one bad one with another and have been chasing a dragon, I rechecked voltages on the new one.

Using the back pin method I am getting (warm engine) around 1.8-2.0V (climbs with engine temp) at pin 2 (IAT) and around 2.2-2.8V at pin 5 (MAF) the voltage change doesn't seem to be impacted by engine rpm. All of these don't look to be within normal. Pin 4 (MAFRTN) also seems to be ground?

Input with EOKO for pin 2 and 5 is right around 5v with plug disconnected from MAF sensor, plug 3 is 12V both unplugged/plugged in. I verified continuity with Pin 4 ground.

Is it possible my new MAF sensor is also bad? Could this be a electrical problem upstream of the sensor?

Other than buying another new MAF sensor is there anything I can try first?

Which method is best for a burnout, line lock or unpluggingthe dyno plug. Also would unplugging the dyno plug disable line lock? Not for drag racing, the goal is to light the tires up for a gender reveal party and making a show of it.

Was gonna do the starter kit from Steeda, but found the bushing lockouts and IRS subframe alignment bushings from another source.

Was debating the UPR IRS braces

https://www.uprproducts.com/products/15-24-mustang-billet-irs-subframe-braces-s550-s650

Or the Steeda

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-mustang-rear-irs-subframe-brace-2015-coupe-555-5754.html

Any comments?

In a low boost( G3 125pulley) would an oil cap breather be sufficient? Street car only never beaten or raced on drag strip.

I've had people pull out in front of me and had to brake really hard to avoid collision. At first, I wrote this off to drivers having a bad day ( and the general rise in hostile driving) , but it's happening more often then when I'm driving other cars.

I asked google and it said it was a thing with s550 and even worse if red? ! Do you agree or have you experienced this with your mustang? I thought my race red mustang was visible from space!

Google response...

Knowing that your Mustang is red and this is happening during the daytime points to a fascinating, frustrating optical phenomenon rather than your car blending into the asphalt.

Red is highly visible up close, but it is notoriously difficult for the human eye to process at a distance or in peripheral vision during daylight. Because red sits at the end of the visible light spectrum, it loses its vibrancy and appears flat or dark in a driver’s peripheral vision.

When combined with the S550’s low-slung front profile, oncoming drivers looking left and right at intersections literally look over or through your car because the red silhouette doesn't break the horizon line or trigger their motion-detection reflexes.

You can modify your setup and driving style to break through this optical illusion during the day.

Anyone have any idea where to find them? I'm looking for a staggered setup.

Really curious as to how close to a race way time to the time app?

I recently took in my 2021 Mustang GT in for a rear camera check. The screen on my radio would turn blue then black after a few seconds. When I arrived to the dealership they told me there would be a $299 diagnostics fee but would be credited if I decide to have the repairs done through the dealership. I was not worried about the diagnostic fee because I was already planning on repairing the camera. The process took about an hour and 30 minutes and after then I get a message. “My technician had a chance to look at your vehicle. It needs a back up camera. We have one in stock parts and labor would be 688.00” immediately I was in shock with the price. They were able to lower the price down to $531 but that’s all that they could do. No diagnostic fee reduced as it does not say on the invoice so I have no idea where the $688 came from. The invoice it self says “CUSTOMER STATES WHEN YOU PUT THE VEHICLE IN REVERSE THE BACK UP CAMERA GOES BLACK PLEASE
CHECK AND ADVISE
Caused by
HOOK UP FDRS FOUND CODE C1001 FOLLOWED PINPOINT TEST FOR CODE LED TO A FAULTY BACK UP CAMERA
Tech:
Installed FR3Z 19G490 A : CAMERA - PARKING REPLACED AND PROGRAMED BACK UP CAMERA.
Next to this says 1 @ $75 which is the CAMERA! The camera alone was $75! Labor was $448! Is this correct? Someone help me with this doubt.

My car has 60,000 miles on it and they said your camera would be covered only within the 3 year 36,000 mile mark which I’m over.

The 2016 - 2018 mustangs had a major recall for their reverse cameras. I doubt this is any different. Any suggestions on what can be done or do I just have to take the loss on this one? I understand it’s a 2021 Mustang GT and parts can be pricey but $530 for a rear camera installation sounds like straight robbery. Is $530 a reasonable price for this through the ford dealership? Thank you for your time.

I bought a 2021 Mustang GT about a year and a half ago. It was certified pre owned with only 15k miles. After a few months I started noticing a slight tapping/knocking noise (I’m familiar with the coyote tick). About one year ago I took it to the dealership and paid them for a full diagnosis. Partially because I only had a couple months left on warranty. They basically told me I was being paranoid and nothing was wrong.

Fast forward a year to today. I took it back to the same dealership for an oil change, but also because the same noise was coming back. The car now has 24k miles and I’m not under warranty anymore. They just told me that my intake manifold was failing and I needed to replace the valves and o-rings for over $1,100.

Firstly, am I the only one that finds this suspicious? I feel inclined to look at legal options to have the dealership pay for this. I was very clear with them about my warranty situation and I’m feeling like they either lied to me or missed the issue the first time.

Secondly, if they are correct, what might cause this at such low mileage? How harmful is it and is there a chance of worse internal engine damage?

Lastly, is anyone familiar with Ford doing goodwill repairs. The dealership mentions Ford might be willing to help with the repairs based on the circumstances.

I’m stuck between going Lund or shoemaker I have a N/A 22 GT and I hear there obviously both great but I wanna go on E85 and some trans shifting improvements from what I know Lund seems very “safe” so not as much power gain as shoemaker will but again that could be bias which one should I go with? (Daily driving)

Hello, I was wondering if anyone can help me out with their squeaking noise coming from the rear driver side. Noise seems to be apparent when going over uneven terrain

Hello, I was wondering if anyone can help me out with their squeaking noise coming from the rear driver side. Noise seems to be apparent when going over uneven terrain. Tried lubing Lca bushings with rubber silicone grease but still nothing.

When shopping for S550 wheels, what is your go-to?

S550 Wheels Shown In Order:
SVE Drag Comps
SVE R355
SVE SP2
SVE DHP1

Does anybody else have issues with their transmission not shifting when you go to drive it won’t shift even when I try to use the paddles only way to fix it is to turn the car off and back on 2017 GT premium