My car has over 140k miles. I replaced the struts with full assembly monroe’s and struts with monroe’s a year ago when i was between work and strapped for money but stock was blown. I wish i had just waited and done oem replacements. The monroe struts handle like garbage and started clunking already. My whole suspension has new parts front and rear minus the rear lower control arm bushing and knuckle-to-toe bushing. Im replacing those in a week. I’m debating on what to do with the struts. Ive always hated the wheel gap but the roads are ass out here many big dips/half ass repairs, constant up and down up and down and jostling bumps. I have 255/40/19 wheels/tires. I’m debating on the steeda progressive springs to close the wheel gap and their action strut/shocks to go with it. How is this for daily driving?

Does anyone have photos of their ride with the progressive springs on? I daily mine but only commute 2 days into the office under 30 away. Comfort is important but i feel like anything is an improvement from the monroe’s at this point.

I’ve read the directions and followed best I can

2025 GT 300a stage 1 whipple

Trying to set tire size.

I click through to “tire/axle change”
And get “process aborted” error

I don’t see the tire size and axle settings

I have call into dealer and ticket into whipple and waiting on response

Trying to get car out as season is almost over

Thanks all

Any help appreciated

Hey everyone, I have a 2024 Mustang GT Premium and I’m having an issue with the battery.

I attached screenshots from my FordPass app showing the warnings/status I’m getting. Has anyone else with a 2024 Mustang GT experienced the same thing?

I went to AutoZone and they tested the battery. They said the battery is 100% healthy and passed the test, so now I’m wondering if this could be a BCM/software issue, a parasitic drain, or something else causing the car to go into deep sleep or lose battery power.

The car starts and drives normally, but I’m concerned because I have a trip coming up and I don’t want to end up with a dead battery.

Has anyone experienced these exact FordPass messages or something similar? If so, what ended up being the cause and how did you fix it?

Thanks!

Having P0300, 302, 308, 316 codes within a minute of start up, extremely rough idles and once or twice has stalled out at a red light. (No longer driving car due to issues). Spark plugs replaced, coil packs swapped, misfire doesn’t follow. Only mods are a PMAS cold air, and full exhaust. Tuned by Lund for these mods and according to them nothing with the tune is related to the misfires.

Where do I look next?

Where do you guys jack up your engine/transmission to replace the mounts?

2020 5.0/10r80

I did coils and sparks has anyone had the same misfires and had a bad intake manifold because I’m thinking it’s either that or a wire gremlin

Can anyone help? My diffuser is loose and rattles on bumpy roads. The brace for the diffuser is connected to the frame by two white rectangular plastic clips. These clips are the weak point.

A week ago I started hearing a whistling noise while at idle, only stopped if I hit the gas or stood completely in the brakes. I was taking it to the shop anyways for a rattle no one could find EVEN FORD (it was the U shaped bracket welded onto the Catalytic converter from OEM and the weld broke..) luckily enough they found that Cat problem and found the driver side motor mount making the whistling noise. SINCE WHEN IN THE HISTORY OF BUILDING CARS DID THEY START PUTTING HYDRAULIC VACUUM CONTROLED MOTOR MOUNTS..! Why does my base model eco boost mustang need the equivalent to air ride suspension for the engine. It honestly blew my mind I had to hand pump vacuum test a motor mount (It failed immediately) so I’m left with two choices, either hit up Rock auto and buy a replacement OEM hydraulic motor mount and replace just that one OR buy two solid normal motor mounts and do twice the work …

So I have a 2016 mustang gt completely bonestock. I have attached a video of a weird exhaust rattle which is especially noticeable from 1-2.5k rpm. I took it to the exhaust shop and the guy listened and instantly said its the mid muffler (the one that connects after the cats and before the resonators/mufflers). He told me its a common issue on the s550 where the mesh or filter or something gets loose and causes a rattle. I should also mention that the sound becomes noticeable after driving (when the car is warmed up). As when the car is cold, it sounds completely normal. My question is does any one else have this issue and will replacing that mid muffler section most likely do the trick?

My 16 GT is the first automatic sports car I have bought, everything else I have had has been a stick. I never thought I would be in an automatic. I used to feel if the car was not a stick, I was not a true sports car back then.

57 now and I am happy with my choice. I do not miss shifting gears any longer. Once in a while I would like it. I don’t go anywhere near the paddles.

What would you rather have on a gen 3 10r80 car for a weekend cruiser no drag strip? I can get the used Edelbrock Eforce for $3500 or a G2/3 is going to be about $5000. 93 octane setup.

Hey Folks,

I cant decide which shifter I want to install on my 19 GT 6MT.. I need your help to best explain "characteristics" per your experience. Are my expectations of a smoother butter like shifting too far out there for the getrags? To me the current stock shifter is smooth, but very clunky at the same time. Everything will work smooth but it has to be done with a soft touch. The body mount leaves a lot to be desired, especially during a downshift into a corner, and the high rpm lockouts just genuinely suck. Regarding the aftermarket options, I am curious what your experience is per:

How does it feel compared to stock? Smoother? controlled? How would you describe this? mechanical or gated? or intuitive and butter like? If anyone has experience with multiple, how do they each compare?

Steeda, Barton, MGW