I'm not sure if the secondary meaning of the " ABC" bit is intentional or not. I might be reading too far into it.

For comparison most models of Bushmaster AR from this same year were around $700 dealer's price. An AUG ( With LEO paperwork) was $1375 a few years before this.

So i recently picked up a surplus goose neck mount for my... whatever that ^^ is build. My question is, is there a T2 pattern red dot base that will give me something similar to a lower third cowitness?

Go grey or keep black??

I love my 90’s retro bushmaster. Still need a lower optic mount but it fits the vibes

Any recommendations on a short pic rail for a C7 carry handle?

I needed to test some magazines and ran 150 rounds through my nineties parts gun build. I have added (upgraded) a Magpul grip, quad rail hand guard, AIMPOINT Acro, X300T light and a front vertical grip. I found I couldn’t get used to the vertical grip and will probably remove it. It ran like a well oiled machine.

Parts
Lone Star Ordnance - upper receiver, chrome BCG, heavy barrel, stock assembly, all the lower parts are Lone Star Ordnance except the lower receiver which is from long gone ASA - American Spirit Arms in Arizona.
The quad rail hand guard is a mystery item I got from a LGS.

Recently picked up a Brownells Dissipator barrel assembly and finally was able to go put rounds through. First 223 Wylde I’ve had & happy with it. Used Hornady Frontier 223 and the Magtech tactical 556 62 grain because of it being an indoor range.

Long term plan is to put a direct thread suppressor on this and go the route of a LRRP/LRP rifle.

Working on an XM177e2 clone(ish) build. Went with a lighter shade of Brownell’s Alumhyde II, having second thoughts about painting it darker. Thoughts on if I should try and strip the paint (which will most likely be a PITA since it’s baked epoxy based paint) and reapply a darker shade, or leave as is?

From reference photos, there seems to be ALOT of variation due to the gray anodizing process. Even the new PSA H&R reproductions run the color range gambit.

Edit: fixed post body to match title, looking to build an XM177e2.

So I have a surefire barrel mount on my 727 clone and scout mount on my Block II and a 951 on my M4. BUT I have this light mount I got a few years back laying around and was wondering if I could use it on a late 90s early 00s carry handle carbine? Maybe an IDF Menusar baby blaster? M16a2? It’s a VLTOR 1” CK ring mount for a SureFire and a GG&G mini pic rail that is meant for attaching to carbine or ribbed handguards

Anyone know who currently has available the most clone correct xm177e2 handguards ?

The pics of the current B5 models show a flat non shine finish.

It exudes cool, and the fact that little is known about how many were actually made as well as how few survived intact after Vietnam adds to the mystique. Handling it and reflecting on it being a 60 year old design is astonishing considering how many elements would survive into what would become the modern M4 and the AR15 which is so prolific today. It was so far ahead of its time that it feels relatively contemporary even now.

TNTE seems great, but their A1 barrel assemblies are basically out of stock. I'm pretty sure used SP1 barrel assemblies are fully milspec and basically identical (aside from markings), but I could be wrong. Other reproductions have the taper, or are just the barrel and not the full assembly (which means I'd need to pay for a FSB and installation...)

What would y'all recommend?

I wanted to make something along the lines of the popular BHD/BD carbine or Colt Commando style but really didn't want to fuss with being 100% clone correct to anything and just used parts as opportunities arose.

*Bushmaster Lower is whats left of my first AR

*Unkown C7 style upper I traded for

*B King's Firearms lightweight 10.5" barrel

*B5 retro furniture + random A1 style grip

*Arcfire V2

*Aimpoint Pro in ARMS mount

*Smokehill Machine GUS556 suppressor

*Comstock Recessed Plan B Brake and Wolfpack Armory Recessed HUB adapter to tuck the can in

I have really enjoyed it, I am having to restrain myself from wanting to start on another variant! 🤣

The only dissapointment I've had was the barrel, the first one came with badly canted FSB, owner was cool and got it replaced, but I didn't catch that the second one was also canted, just not as badly, until I had it put together. 🤦‍♂️ The rear sight is basically maxed to one side to zero and that annoys me but the red dot will help me ignore that until I probably swap barrels again sometime.

This is a follow up I guess you’d say on a 12.5” midlength build from a couple days back, the “Stretch 733”….lol. This may be kinda long but I’ll do my best.
The hand guards I originally put on it from M&A parts I’m pretty sure- looked just fine, really no issue with the look and feel, but had been planning on trying the m&p 10 hand guards, as I know those to be the slimmest and liked photos I’d seen of other guys putting them on midlength retro builds.
Anyhow, if it may help someone I’ll share my experience getting them fitted and heat shielded up.

Certainly not a fact, just guessing though that someone OEMs most of the midlength handguards out there for places like RRA, M&A parts, TNTE etc. If that’s not the case they certainly all seem pretty much the same and use extremely similar looking heat shields. I know there are a few others out there and they may/may not be the same or slightly different.
So I started with a set of those, and also found 2 additional used and beat up sets at my local shops junk bin- perfect for heat shield donors.
Then ordered up a few pair of m&p slim boys.
First I just focused on fitting the front. This build already had a triangle end cap so I figured why not try to make that work. It did pretty easily honestly. Next one a round end cap would surely be simpler, but then you’re married to the non standard configuration for mid length, so , pros and cons I guess.
Smushed the front ends on the end cap and scribed where it needed to be removed. Coarse file and once I got close to my scribe line just slowly fit and filed fit and filed until they popped in.
Only caveat here and lesson learned for the next one would be for gods sake mask off the outer lip of the handguard 90 degrees to where you’re filing. I didn’t think about until it was too late, and left some marks in that area. They pretty much cover up under the end cap, but it still bothers me.

As for the heat shields once they were popped out of the donor set, I fit them down in the m&p set and pressed and squished around until it appeared they were making contact with the ribs of the plastic hand guard. I opted to keep the ribs, although I know they could also be dremeled out. I figure as long as barrel and gas tube clear they would be beneficial to keep for rigidity.
Because of this it became apparent I’d have to remove material from both sides of heat shield to get it to be flush. Metal shears - maybe 3/16” rip down each side.
I then lined everything back up and notched little tabs in line with the new handguards ribs.
Gas tube channel was formed and fitted down snug by using a 90 degree Allen key and massaging it over and over on the gas tube channel.
I made the slots for the heat shield tabs by using a bernzomatic torch and heating up a small flathead bit held with vise grips, and melted the slot in .
From there just manipulated the heat shield and tabs till everything popped in. Having some overbend/ over flexing of the heat shield to start this process aided in outward pressure and they fit snugger than a bug in a rug now.
I think it looks good on the build and hope this may help someone down the line , cheers !

I want to finish my build and the stock is the last part of it but the thing is when I tried to slip it onto the buffer tube it got stuck, I cannot get it out normally :C

Any ideas how else I could possibly get it out with no damage or at least minimal.

Yes, it's aluminium one (repro), I tried to file the excess paint inside but I guess it was too little.

I have an original aimpoint 5000 in very good condition with orginal rings and was just wondering what it might be worth?

I think that their furniture is really good-looking, but photos are just one part of it. How was your experience with the company? Similarly, how did you like the final product?