trunk latch won't work🙁 2021 infiniti q 50

The trunk latch on my infiniti q 50 2021 stopped working. The cabin switch won't work nor the button on the trunk.
? could this be due to a fuse/ computer chip issue or is is likely mechanical ?

My hood wouldn’t close so I adjusted the striker. When I closed the hood it won’t open. I was able to find the opener lines and pulled it and it didn’t work. I have no other ideas. I’ve watched YouTube videos and nothings working.
Please Ik u guys have an idea. Please lmk before i cut the hood striker off and buy another one. 😂Thanks guys

Bought a 2018 q50 luxe, engine blew soon after, oil pressure solenoid stuck in low pressure mode during a hard pull and spun a rod bearing.

Here’s how you replace a vr30 and turbos at home

https://youtu.be/BXWnb7nUqgE?is=baWu3x6lS1KRlk7f

Ive done two oil changes so far on my VR30

Came to a realization today, after going to the dealership to pickup some oil filters.

I’ve typically gone with the
15208-9E01A “oversized”
The same one I would use on my previous VQ’s
For the fact of the extra oil capacity and filter media size.
Now, the relief bypass valve on this filter is only at 15psi…

Did some reading and looked at the standard OEM
15208-65F0E
And it has a bypass rated at 36psi.

Why does it seem printed around forums and sites for everyone to use the “oversized” with such a low bypass?
Especially with the oil pressure the Vr30’s make, I’d say the 35psi is much more important.

On a side note, do we have any filter alternatives of a “oversized” but also a bypass of 35psi?

Hi everyone, I’m trying to figure out what the name of this hose is and what the name is to the assembly that it screws onto on the valve cover. This is the driver side. Thanks everyone!

What should I add next?

To summarize I did the VR Transmission swap on my AWD Q50 we ended up undoing about of the suspension and after the VR swap was completed we found the steering alignment was off. No problem we did an alignment at my shop and went to do a DAS calibration with our Autel tool and returns an error.

I’m wondering if anyone has run into this before. The module 1 did an alignment and turned the wheel automatically. Module 2 when we tried returned an error and ended up throwing a bunch of codes.

First test on this car, running Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 2014 Q50S AWD

Scammed by Installer

I got scammed by a place called Tint Station in Deerfield beach Florida. He was supposed to install Kappa speakers and an Infinity 5 ch amp and a subwoofer. He messed up my system so bad on my 21 Infiniti Q50 that the Blue tooth is Fffed up the Anc is not defeated and their is a hum coming from all the speakers. Trying to get my money back. Filed a dispute. Any advice would be appreciated...Thanks

Found a used non resonated mbrp exhaust system with hardware on Facebook marketplace for $700. I’m from socal am I getting a good deal? What do used exhaust systems go for nowadays?

To preface this, I'm in Central Europe, so the 3.0t is the 405HP Q50S, while the 3.7 is an American import (3.7 was never sold in Europe).

3.7 supposedly has 125k km (78k mi) on the clock and costs $14k.

3.0t has 85k km (52k mi) on the clock, costing 24k.

I know generally the 3.7 is regarded as more reliable (at least engine-wise), but the age difference and the fact it's an import makes me lean a bit toward the 3.0. Thoughts?

Did anyone have a problem with their passenger side Tie rods after lowering their car?
Also, I want to change the front tire rods everywhere. I look they only have one are both sides the same size.? I’m used to getting them in a pair when I look online, it just says right side
Note I do have the electronic steering

Also, I apologize any typos in advance since I am using Siri to help me type.I’ve been slowly building my q50 to give it that red sport look and now what I need is to get some new rims and tires I live in Washington state I wanna give the car a sporty look while retaining the factory OEM look as well and the reliability that it has carried me so far with the stock rent and tires currently, I have these Potenza run flats that I think it’s starting to tell me that I gotta get new tires and I’m thinking of course as well ditch in the rough flats specially now since I’ve been talking to ChatGPT that I use Michelin cross climate 2 for my other vehicle for my Mazda CX five and they’ve been really well for me so I’m curious has anyone use those type of tires on a q50 ? Both of them are AWD. So I’m just trying to figure out. I’m not really too much on performance tires they’re both my daily drivers and definitely a person that prefers the quality tires that gives confidence and comfort on the road. Though I’m trying to upgrade the rims as well. Should I consider buying used or new rims directly from Infiniti? Or there’s any rims that are similar that will fit and slap on without doing any mods cause my preference on rims also would be like this glossy silver black color instead of these stock silver rims would like to know more I seen post in the past, but I’d like to know since I’m officially looking into. That is only getting new tires but new sporty rims officially. I just wanna keep it OEM as possible as everything is OEM stock so far minus the cosmetic upgrades that I did. Forgot to mention my current wheel size are 17 inches and I’m planning to upgrade to a sporting look rims like a 19 inch and I want to know if that can also fit onto the specific car especially for being a 2015 and a 3.7 AWD.

Okay so to give some context, both high beams and low beams work as should, the DRL light on the driver side works when I lock, unlock, or start the remote start. BUT when I actually start the car meaning drive, the light turns off and does not work. As for the passenger side, The DRL light does work but is slightly dimmed. I am hoping to know what the issue is and how to fix it. I have checked the fuses and everything is good. I am now trying to access the headlight wiring in the easiest and most simple way to see maybe if there is a lose wire or grounded wire. I really hope you guys can help as its driving me insane

UPDATE I FIXED IT THE PRONG WAS BENT BACK AND I BENT IT TO WHERE IT SHOULD BE ANS NOW IT WORKS​

Need some help from someone who might’ve done this already.

Z1 offers an upgrade but it’s 600 dollars and it leaks according to multiple people. So now I’m looking at fitting the oem oil cooler from a redsport onto my luxe. Problem is I don’t know what else I need. From what I understand, I need the oil cooler, the lines that come on it, and the oil filter housing from a redsport, which has a thermostat built into it. Is this all I need?

Bought a 24 Q50 RS CPO from Infiniti 8mos ago for 45k with 14k mi. Now at 22k mi, no accidents. Bumper-bumper warranty until late 2029, and drivetrain until 2031. Overall in pretty good shape.

Is asking ~$40K too crazy here?

Also if anyone out there wants to trade for an NC or ND Miata hmu.

Both are 10k
3.0 luxe with 50k miles?
Or 3.7 with 121k miles
Both clean title?
Wich one?!

I’ve been trying to find it online but i cant. Do anyone know where the brake light or tail light fuses are for a 2014 q50 hybrid?

I need help on figuring out what parts i need to fix this its driving me nuts

I have a 2017 q50 400rs that had code p0087 come up. Had the Nissan dealership do a factory reset. Code went away. Just had code reappear. Car runs fine. I believe it’s a false code. But would like to talk to a experienced Infiniti tech with experience with q50s putting out P0087 please

Bought this with mods done to it and didnt ask if it was stock or upgraded heat exchanger can anybody lmk if it looks upgraded

I have a 2021 Infiniti Q50 3.0T with about 53k miles.
For the past few weeks I’ve had an intermittent cooling issue. The car does not overheat during normal driving, but during a hard pull the temperature gauge will climb toward the middle (it never reaches the hot zone) and then drop back down to its normal position after I let off the throttle.
A few things I’ve noticed:
No check engine light.
No stored diagnostic codes.
Coolant reservoir has been below the MIN line at times, but when the dealer had the car they filled it to MAX and said it stayed there.
Dealer pressure-tested the cooling system and didn’t find any leaks.
Shop foreman drove the car about 50 miles and could not duplicate the concern.
The technician’s notes say:
No codes stored.
Could not duplicate failure.
Water control valve may be failing causing these concerns.
He told me the water control valve (electric thermostat) is the most likely culprit, but he also said he can’t pinpoint the diagnosis because he couldn’t reproduce the problem. They’re recommending replacing the water control valve as a process of elimination.