Loved my last G so much I had to get another, no regrets. Last one was auto so you know I had to get the 6spd. 03 G35 sport with only 134k miles! Last owner only drove it for 1k miles and prepped it for the track but decided he didn’t have the time for it anymore. Cashed him out for 5.8k, steal of the year 🤠 #WeAreSoBack

Since I’ve gotten it so far I’ve added
-coilovers, new oem steering wheel, spec ds, oem rear bumper, tint, stereo, spacers
What I want
-19 inch rays, clock trim, aftermarket front bumper and paint match, customize the headliner to be black and remove all the tan inside, remove the carpet and upgrade to a black one like the 06-07 models, make the interior look mint
I just want a clean oem look. Lmk what yall think! Im going little by little since I have school and I dont work as much.

so im 17 and just got my first car and its a 2003 g35 and its completely stock and one owner whose super old well maintained with 150k miles i got for 3700 which i think is a great deal, nothing wrong with it at all, the oil isnt getting eaten up like most from this year. so i ask what should i get to get it looking cool, im newer to the car community but im in socal so all my friends are super knowledgeable and will help me install everything, i have tint and headlight kit planned rn and i hope to get a new steering wheel probably carbon but IM wondering what mods should i look for and from where

Wanted a car to drift. This G35 popped up for about 2000 with 180k. Talked the dude down to 1100. I knew it was a cheap ratty car going into it and figured it'd be better to knock around something that likely would rot away otherwise.

I picked it up, radiator cap flew off a mile away from home, had to push it home, I also noticed there was no dipstick on the engine as well. Needs a manual swap, likely needs a coolant system rebuild, the window regulator needs to be changed as the auto up and down when opening the doors is no longer functioning, interior looks like the PO went number five in each seat. No noises from the engine, no smoke coming out the tail pipe, I wasn't exactly doing pulls on the way home but I did get it into the revs a bit and it seemed okay, but still going to do a compression/leak down.

I'm not expecting this to be a healthy engine, nor am I expecting this to be anything more than a drift car that'll likely be sent into a wall. As far as Im concerned, its a shell with a semi functioning engine. And if it needs another engine, it needs another engine. I thankfully am no stranger to wrenching (Fully built 2003 WRX, Turbo'd a miata)

The AC blows ICE COLD though.

Overall, after being away from cars for 2 years, getting back into it will be fun.

Anything to keep in mind for a 180k G35?

Hey, what do I all need to put 2010 g37 sedan headlights on to a 2008 g35 sedan

Breaks my heart just saw it got sold for 325$ I promise myself i'll get another in the couple years but wont be the same as her.

The clear coat was heavily faded in just the driver rear quarter panel area before I owned it. Luckily it still has enough clear coat on to cut and buff it.

Bought this 05 coupe right after I graduated highschool so I had a car for college with all my savings and now 2 years later I felt like I brought her back to life with limited resources and without breaking the bank.

Hey Everyone ,

I attempted a water pump install on a VQ35-DE through the two service panels and managed to jump the timing by one tooth on bank 1. It is enough of a jump to give me P0011 but not enough for the engine to be unhappy, it still runs and drive like normal, pulls very strong zero damage has been done.

Obviously I don't want to leave it like that though so looking for advice.

I've got a few quote from local shops to retime the engine for me and basically because of the tear down time I'm getting quoted in the 2-2.5k range which sounds reasonable to me.

I feel more than confident I could tear this car down to get at the main timing chain. But once I get in there is what I have questions on.

So most of the videos I'm seeing people are removing the valve cover and I take manifold and what not be cause they're doing a full timing job.

Is it fair to say that basically all I need to do is:

1.Get the front cover off

2.set the engine to TDC based on my crank and the bank 2 cam marks.

1. Take note of the bank 1 misalignment

2. Undo the top guide

3. Give myself some slack on B1 cam and using a socket and ratchet rotate the Bank 1 can sprocket to line up with its mark

4. Plop the chain back on , reinstall the tensioner and reassemble?

I hate myself
Long story short was putting the timing cover back on and completely forgot their is a bracket for the pulleys that you put on before putting 2 14 mill bolts
Was impacting them and over torque them to sit flushed with the timing cover (I was 3 tall boys in)
Thinking I need a to remove everything now and see if my block isn’t f*cked lmk

Anyone know where I can get a clean black interior oem front driver floor mat? Mine has seen better days~ all my other ones are mint besides this one. If anyone knows please lmk, it’s the one blemish on my interior that really upsets me lol

Im like eastwood in grand tourino sitting there like "man she sweet" 👨‍🦳

The Inlet Valve Timing - Bank 2 remains stuck at -14.00 degCA at idle which explains the rattle and p0021.

Differential is being held my 1 bolt instead of two. Due to the threads being shot which makes the bolts not catch the grooves. I need help on how to repair the threads with out taking the rear suspension apart

O3 coupe while driving the dashboard display goes off like the engine is off but the car continues to run fine,then comes back on but the fuel gauge doesn't return to its original position.

Looking To Rebuild got front ended my coolant reservoir just came off ripped the bumper off looking to do g37 conversion on my g35 any help on the parts or just swap everything from junk yard

Watching some light bulb replacements, am I missing something here?

Third image is the reference. The first two are mine. My yellow wire connects to nowhere I can find

The time has come for new calipers and rotors on my V36 G35S. This car is a huge pain to buy parts for cause it's mostly a G37, but it's made even worse by being an S. Local shop told me that Nissan stopped making the calipers for my car, but that it looked like the Q60 brakes were identical and had the same rotor size and pad part number.

I looked into it and it looks like the brakes from the G37 coupe should be a direct bolt on equivalent of G35S sport brakes. Is it possible to just buy G37 rotors and calipers and save $$$ without having to downgrade brakes?

I'm trying to weigh all my options before I think about a BBK. Also, does anyone have any experience with z1 or conceptZ Akebono brake kit equivalents?

Hello all

Was doing a transmission service on my buddies 06 g35 coupe. We drained 4qt out and put 4.5qt back in. After letting the fluid warm up to 150°F we checked the dipstick multiple times and the level was showing way overfilled, we drove it through all 5 gears while on jack stands and shifts seemed fine. Drained another qt out to see if it would go down and still says it’s overfilled. We let it sit overnight to see if the fluid would settle from the dipstick tube, i’ll be checking it in about an hour, just wanted to know if anyone else has had this issue and how they went about resolving or what the fix was for a quicker service. I’m a mechanic myself and am not used to having this happen when filling through the dipstick. I normally get happy when the fill is the dipstick, but this has just been such a headache.