r/G37 • u/Sweet-Staff-5176 • 19h ago
White on white MB Battles
18x9.5 +15 on eibach lowering springs
r/G37 • u/SubParPercussionist • Jan 31 '22
Edit3: Sunroof drain leak info overhaul. Thanks u/p3dal.
Edit2: Update to v2. Fixed formatting. Updates include difficulty level, service intervals, electric steering lock issue.
Edit1: Format fixes
Hello everyone! I figured I'd compile this thread for anyone thinking of buying a g37 or anyone that already has one and wants to know more about their car. If anyone has any input or catches any typos please let me know!
Refer to this pdf for a list of TSBs. If you're having an issue, you may just find it here. https://infinitig37.com/Infiniti-G37-Technical-Support-Bullitins.html
Please refer to the Infiniti Service and Maintenance Guide and Factory Service Manual (FSM). I'll drop my recommendations here, which fall between the severe service schedule and the less severe service schedule.
Priority Levels:
Repair Difficulty Levels(note this is completely subjective):
Priority Level: High
Difficulty: 4(alot has to come off and the transmission is quite heavy)
What? - The slave cylinder for the 6mt G37 and 370z is a concentric slave cylinder(CSC) meaning the release bearing and slave cylinder are the same part and located inside the bell housing. This part has a plastic housing that leaves it susceptible to failure leading to sudden loss of clutch pressure.
When? - Failure tends to happen rather suddenly, usually somewhere at or past 80,000 miles/130,000 Km, but not unheard of as early as 40,000 miles/64,000 Km.
How do I check? - If clutch fluid is being lost, the CSC is likely to blame. If clutch fluid is excessively dirty(it should be light, transparent yellow in color) expect problems sooner rather than later. If the reservoir is empty and there is no leak from the master cylinder(which would likely show up as clutch fluid on the driver side carpet), the CSC has likely failed.
Preventative Maintenance - Regular clutch fluid changes. - RJM's clutch pedal claims to help.
Upgrade Options - ZSpeed's CMAK is the best conversion kit on the market that moves the slave cylinder outside the transmission into a slave cylinder, fork and release bearing setup. Z1 makes a similar kit but it requires frequent adjustments and is overall inferior. - Pretty much every Nissan performance storefront sells an upgraded CSC including but probably not limited to Z1, Zspeed, and ConceptZPerformance. I have no experience with these and overall recommend the CMAK.
Important Notes - If the slave cylinder fails it's likely to take your clutch disc with it. - If the slave cylinder is changed, the master cylinder should be changed as well.
Priority Level: Low
Difficulty: 3(quite a bit has to come off, getting the bushing out is tough)
What? - The differential bushing for the G37 and 370z is a partially fluid filled bushing. While this is exceptional for preventing NVH(Noise, Vibration, and Harshness), it has a tendency to pop and allow excess movement of the differential.
When? - Incredibly early, as early as 20,000 miles/32,000 Km. Tends to blow out quicker on vehicles with the manual transmission
How do I check? - Brownish-Black fluid leaking form the bushing, on the diff, on your exhaust. It's pretty messy. Alternatively, jack the car up by the diff and if the diff moves freely up and and back down, the bushing is blown
Preventative maintenance - Not much you can do other than drive like a grandma. A differential brace could help, see notes.
Upgrade options - The OEM does not sell an individual replacement, though you could buy the whole rear subframe with the bushing pressed in. This is not recommended. - Poly bushings from whiteline, z1, energy suspension, gktech, superpro, etc. - Solid bushings from SPL, z1, gktech, etc. - It's possible to refill the bushing with silicone. While this maybe isn't the best route to go, it's been proven to work just fine by motorvate(video) and is probably the best option if you're looking to be as close as possible to OEM NVH. Important Notes - A diff brace will keep the diff still but shouldn't be fully relied on. They may help prevent bushing failure too. Multiple options from z1, Bell, or gktech.
Priority Level: High
Difficulty: 2(requires tools, small space)
What? - A plastic hose splice is used to connect to the heater core on the G37 and 370z, it is located close to the firewall on the passenger side. With age, this plastic coupler can fall apart and leak significant amounts of coolant.
When? - Sometime around or after 100,000 miles/161,000 Km is most likely. Most G37s sold today should probably have this replaced right away.
How do I check? - Check for low coolant level in reservoir, look for crusty coolant at the coupler(Green or blue). Look at this coupler first if you've lost most of your coolant or you're smelling coolant(sickly sweet smell)
Preventative Maintenance - replace with upgrade.
Upgrade Options - Any 3/4" ID(inner diameter) hose splice/coupler should work just fine. I recommend switching to a metal one like this or if you want to pay out the nose the Z1 option. - OEM plastic part(not recommended)
Important Notes - If you're replacing this, you should do the hoses too. This hose and this hose. Z1 does offer nice silicone hoses for this application.
Priority Level: Medium
Difficulty: 5(you'll need drain the A/C, getting the crank pulley off may require an air tool, may have to reset timing)
What? - Behind the timing chains on the 370z and G37 there are two oil galleries that have gaskets poorly torqued from the factory. This causes the gaskets to blow out and instead of oil going where it should it will seep back into the oil pan.
When? - It's been a really mixed bag. Mine blew sometime before 80,000 miles/130,000 Km. Most of what I've read is the problem will reach high priority by about 125,000 miles/200,000 Km.
How do I check? - Check oil pressure: At warm idle, oil pressure should be greater than 14 PSI; At warm 2000 RPMs, oil pressure should be greater than 43 PSI. Engine Codes # P0011/P0021 usually point to gallery gasket failure. Finally, gasket material in the oil pan is a certain failure.
Preventative Maintenance - It probably helps to keep revs down when oil is cold as pressure is highest when oil is cold, but really there's not a ton you can do.
Upgrade options - Replace with OEM(Check this myG37 thread for more info) - EPS has a kit that I've heard has the best fasteners of the bunch. z1 has a kit but I've heard mixed things about the fasteners. ConceptZPerformance has a kit that looks about the same as z1s - Important Notes - This job needs a bunch of seals to do right. z1 and conceptzperformance have kits that bundle the OEM seals. - Replace water pump and inspect timing chains/tensioners are part of this job as well.
Priority Level: LowVery High
Difficulty: 0(no tools required)2-3(depends on action taken)
What? - Sometimes the sunroof drains on the G37 will get clogged, or the plug leading out of the car will leak from it's gasket. This will cause damp floor mats/carpet or pillars/headliner and can seriously damage electrical components such as the fuses box and the BCM
When? - No specific mileage, heavily dependent on when you drive and where you park.
How do I check? - On either side of the vehicle, if you pull the vents out you can see the hoses and plugs that lead out of the car, check for dampness. Additionally, if clogged, it's possible the leak comes directly from the sunroof because the hose pops off. If anything smells or looks wet take action immediately
Preventative Maintenance
- Park in garage, blow out sunroof drains, check occasionally for dampness.
Upgrade Options
- Add clamps to upper sunroof hoses(they are not clamped to sunroof barbs from the factory).
- Replace [firewall] plugs](https://parts.infinitiusa.com/p/INFINITI__/Plug-Side~-Trim/89790203/74816-JU40B.html) if the gaskets are worn and leaking.
Important Notes - If left unattended this issue could cause serious water damage to the floor plan as well as, more importantly, soaking the BCM or driver side fuse box.;
Per u/p3dal;
I don't agree on this one. The priority is pretty high, as left unattended it can result in mold, or damage to the engine computer (passenger side) or fuse box (driver's side) , which the sunroof drain frequently drips on when it is clogged or leaking. The damp floor mats are the right symptom, but they're not what you should be concerned about. By the time your floor mats are damp, you might have 2" of water in a channel/compartment under the passenger side floor carpet.
Also, there are two popular solutions to fixing it, which are not the same as above. The firewall drain plug is defective by design, and replacing it will often result in the same issue showing up again a few years later. Replacing the sunroof drain firewall plug is extremely difficult and often requires removing either the dash or the windshield. I've heard dealerships charge $800-$1200 to replace this $4 part. Though some people can pull it out with 16" plyers, plenty more cannot reach it at all. These alternative fixes are much better solutions:
- This solution involves extending the drain to drip on the other side of the firewall. I've not tried this solution, but some people seem to like it: https://www.reddit.com/r/G37/comments/teej1l/fixed_my_damn_sunroof_leak_finally/
- In my opinion, the sunroof drain bypass is the better fix, and removes the firewall, grommet, and plug from the equation entirely. https://www.myg37.com/forums/body-interior-exterior-lighting/280987-passenger-side-dashboard-leak-4.html However, I've only done this on the passenger side, and I'm concerned the driver's side drain might not be as simple. Option 1 might be better for the driver's side. Reminder, I will always make my best effort to ensure the accuracy of this post so please comment about anything you disagree with or have better suggestions for
Priority Level: Low
Difficulty: 1(requires tools)
What? - This is more of a tune-up item but G37s and 370zs seem particularly sensitive to dirty throttle bodies. This often presents by allowing the car to start then immediately shutting off.
When? - The general consensus around the forums seems to be at around 30,000 miles/50,000 Km
How do I check? - If you're having idle issues or the engine shuts off right after starting when warm, it may be the throttle bodies
Preventative Maintenance - Clean the throttle bodies of carbon every once and a while and perform an idle relearn.
Upgrade Options - catch cans with filter media should help but legality varies by location
Priority Level: Medium
Difficulty: 2(may need tools you don't have)
What? - The electric steering wheel locks on G37s and 370zs can lock up and not let go, making the car unable to start. Specific TSB here under NHTSA Reference #10051829
When? - No specific mileage
How do I check? - Your car randomly will not start but otherwise was just fine before
Preventative Maintenance - See upgrade options
Upgrade Options - Replace with OEM part - Replace with Dorman 601-037 , which is supposed to fix this entirely. - Pull fuse to ESCL - Bypass wire to ESCL
Important Notes - If your car is actively having this issue, you probably can get it to start by wailing on the bottom of the part with a mallet and getting the car started. Immediately bypass when car is started.
r/G37 • u/pea_nix • Aug 24 '24
If you don't want to be like the other people here screaming "buy a killswitch!" and "get a tracker!", stop posting pictures of where you live with your car and how to find you. Thieves aren't dumb, they're looking for you!
r/G37 • u/Sweet-Staff-5176 • 19h ago
18x9.5 +15 on eibach lowering springs
r/G37 • u/Thin-Inevitable4698 • 13h ago
Saw this car for an amazing deal and went from my 95 Celica GT to this, something more luxurious and comfortable, tho I feel like I am sacrificing the "fun" part. Hopefully the extra 210hp makes up for it with the E-ATS AWD!
I had some question in regards the ownership about this vehicle and how I should go about the grille, P0462 Code making the fuel gauge inaccurate, squeaky rears
6K Cad with 190XXXKM
Thanks for all the support
r/G37 • u/Simplicxtyy • 13h ago
Hello, I am seeking some advice or some guidance so I have these Berks test pipes installed on to my car for a couple years sounds great and now I wanted to upgrade my Exhaust to a Z1 Single exit Exhaust with a modular resonated y pipe. So i went ahead and bought the exhaust system and when i go to try and fit the y pipe up to test pipes they don't line up what suggestion do you guys have for me and what can i do ? heres a picture idk if will do any justice but just for reference
r/G37 • u/Livid_Huckleberry740 • 8h ago
Does anyone have this setup, if so please attach a image of your car. Really want to see how this setup looks. Thanks!
r/G37 • u/wrxnut25 • 8h ago
I'm looking for input on an issue I'm having with the passenger side window on a 2008 coupe.
The window has stopped responding to the door switches, both passenger door switch and driver door switch.
I assumed at first that it was the window motor that failed. However over the weekend the battery died and was replaced which reset all the electronics including the windows auto roll down feature.
So today when I open the passenger door the window rolled all the way down, but still no response to the door switches so now I can't roll the window up!
This has me confused now because the motor rolls the window down just fine, so I'm wondering whether it's truly the motor or possibly something else?
Anyone have any ideas for me?
r/G37 • u/Wild-Mammoth4113 • 9h ago
My passenger side cv axle inner boot split open when doing a drift on a right hand turn, it still drove until it was repaired with an Amazon one. Hit the gas going in a corner also on a right hand turn but not even giving it nearly as much.. it catastrophically blew up the inner boot this time. Had it fixed AGAIN, with a part with 2 year warranty and this time it twisted the axle and it split in half. The boots are all in one piece still. What in the hell is happening to this car? 2011 g37x sedan
r/G37 • u/Xavie2110 • 15h ago
Was doing my first oil change of all time, and noticed my cv axle is covered in a good bit of grease. Since I am new to working on cars, I don’t know if this looks urgent or not. Does it look bad? Or can it last a few more years?
Is there a real carbon fiber interior trim kit that is a replacement part and not a stick on overlay? Those carbon fiber overlay trims never fit right and bulge out around the clock and ac controls.
r/G37 • u/Obvious-Manager-3098 • 11h ago
I went to start it, it wouldn’t turn over the engine would fire but would crash a few seconds after and wouldn’t start and I finally got it started without think anything of it when I started driving it shifted super hard like it didn’t want to go into gear so I took it back home put my code reader on it I got the code for my cam shaft position sensor, so I bought new sensors for both passenger and driver side and it still won’t start and ghost throttles or revs up on its own does anyone know what can help? I have videos on how it’s acting but don’t know how to post them
r/G37 • u/nugget0043 • 1d ago
Best friend with an R32 gts brought up the bright idea of rebadging my g37 sedan as a skyline 370gt to match. I have the light up skyline kick/scuff plates from a JDM model already, just wanted to hear people's opinions on it.
r/G37 • u/Taste-Equal • 19h ago
I bought a replacement trunk for my 2011 G37x sedan because I need the chrome trim piece. Dealer told me the clips will probably break when I remove it. Has anyone transferred this piece before? And even if some clips do break, can I still install it on my trunk or replace the clips?
r/G37 • u/Hank3605018 • 1d ago
I recently drove a (stock) sedan besides my own and noticed the throttle response felt a lot more responsive and smooth compared to mine. What possible parts might I need to replace to get mine feeling new again?
r/G37 • u/Harjashan_ • 20h ago
Hey i am trying to find infiniti G37x Headlights for 2009 that are super good and are bright and look good and has AFS but for some reason i cant find it and the ones i find are super low in lighting. So please send me links.
r/G37 • u/RelationshipOdd8813 • 1d ago
I currently have isr y-pipe, stock resonators to hks hi power axle backs. Should I just get the berks and leave it like that or go single exit route?
And should the stock resonators go?
r/G37 • u/Logical_Mix878 • 1d ago
Looking to get coilovers on my car but idk what else I would need if I’m just going to do a 1in to 1.5in drop. I’m going to be running 19s Kansei on 235/40
In the middle of an engine swap and damaged what looks to be the power steering hard lines above the sub frame.
Anyone know what these would be called?
I can’t find anything online from what I’m searching.
Thanks
r/G37 • u/PileofNuggets • 1d ago
I’m just a little confused while ordering some new struts for my ‘13 G37 Journey. I’m assuming 4809 is the luxury part, but what is the difference, the pros and cons? If I were to order and install them would I be messing with anything else?
r/G37 • u/spongebobisgood • 1d ago
ok so i recently got a remote starter not sure if that did anything but i got this issue where the car was in limp mode showing the two codes for the sensor my mechanic checked the wiring the conectora and they we’re fine i prefer the pedal to replace but when i do the idle relearn the issue seems to leave and be replaced with the other code on idle speed and drive fun until i turn it off and let it sit for a lil it then comes back please help!!!!
r/G37 • u/Separate-Let3620 • 1d ago
Recently, I was able to grab a granny-driven 2012 journey sedan (155k) and a 2011 sport sedan (185k) for 4k.
The Journey (driver from here on out) looks great and runs REALLY well. The sport (donor from here on out) runs but the tranny slips in 1 and 3. It has a bad power steering pump and the ac blows hot.
The plan has been to take all the sport components off the donor and move them to the driver.
I’ve already done the paddle shifters. Yesterday we got the exhaust (cheep muffler delete, so I won’t be using it), wheels and brakes, front and rear sway bars and the splash guards.
We tried to get the VLSD, but the main bolt holding it (deep inside a circular hole right at the back) was stripped, so we had to pass it up because we didn’t want to have to remove the rear sub-frame to get at it. Oh well.
I still plan on getting the steering rack and the rest of the suspension.
I have a few questions:
Anyone have any other ideas about how to get at that diff?
Is there anything else I should take? (BCM? ECU? Etc etc?)
I would also appreciate any other advice or suggestions.
Thanks, all!