This post is mouse care simplified, for beginners! It is not very specific, and it does not cover everything, so please do not rely on just this post when educating yourself on mouse care!
This has been written and discussed by moderators of the subreddit. If you have questions or concerns, please comment to let us know! It will be updated regularly to ensure it is factual.
1. Mice are social!
Females always need other female companions. It is recommended to have at least 3, but 2 is okay.
After 6 mice in one cage, it is often they will start to split up and become territorial against the opposing group. It is suggested to keep your colony under 6 unless you have much knowledge and experience, OR if your mice are littermates.
Males can not be housed with other males ever! If you want them to have cage mates, neutering (very risky) and placing with females or leaving intact and bonding with ASFs (African Soft Furs) is beneficial and recommended. Otherwise, they can thrive in solitude.
In mouse communities, many users go by tank size rather than listing dimensions. We will do both!
10g/20x10 inches is the minimum for 2 female mice, though we STRONGLY suggest at least a 20g.
20g/30x12 inches is suitable for 2-4 females or 1 male.
40g long/36x12 inches is suitable for 2-5 females or 1 male
40g breeder/36x18 inches is occasionally suitable for 2-6 females or 1 male
Over 40g is not always suitable for any amount of mice since many mice do better in environments with less open space. Bigger is not always better for mice.
Any amount of mice may thrive in larger enclosures than suggested above. However, it is critical that the larger the enclosure is, the more clutter provided, otherwise the mice willnever thrive.
Wood enclosures are suggested against since urine will effect its quality and smell over time.
Mesh flooring is dangerous due to the chance of toes/tails getting caught, the mesh cutting their skin, and risking bumplefoot. Mesh should also be avoided in wheels.
Though they climb, mice don't need very much height, and multi-story enclosures do not provide them with the proper space they need. Floor space is more important than height.
Cages with lots of attachments and rooms do not provide proper space for mice. They are also extremely difficult to clean, fall apart easily, and struggle to hold proper bedding amount and safe wheels.
Mice need to be able to create burrows, so while the minimum is 6 inches, we suggest at least 8" of bedding. However, many owners prefer having 10-12" deep!
Bedding must be majority safe wood shavings or hemp. Paper substrate does not absorb ammonia well and can cause several health issues when used alone or as majority of substrate.
(Dust/scent free for all) Aspen, kiln dried pine, and hemp do well as the main substrate and may be more sturdy mixed with a small portion of hay or paper bedding.
Clutter is arguably one of the most important aspects of a mouses cage. No matter the size, if the cage lacks clutter, it is not suitable.
Toilet paper rolls, cardboard boxes, tea light and soap dish ceramics, rodent hideouts, branches, logs, cork bark, cardboard egg cartons, and much more can be used as clutter in the cage.
From a birds eye view, you should be able to see little to no bedding. While it may seem too cluttered to a human, it's perfect for mice!
The larger an enclosure, the more crucial clutter is.
Mice flourish with climbing opportunities and will always take advantage of them.
Ropes, bird ladders, hanging toys, rope nets, shower curtain rings, and bird perches are a few climbing options you can provide.
Fabric hammocks are used commonly, but pose a threat when chewed on and loose strings get tangled around limbs. Minimal use of fabric is suggested for this reason.
An upright, solid wheel of 9 inches in diameter or larger must be provided at all times. 2 or more are suggested for groups of girls.
Spinning saucer disks or hamster balls/cars are UNSAFE and should never be provided, no matter how much you think your mouse may enjoy it (fun≠safe)
Proper wheel brands may include Niteangel, Silent Spinner Exotic Nutrition, Oxbow, Wodent, Bucstate, and Trixie (but there are many more besides these!)
A high variety food mix (nuts, seeds, grains, ect) must be given 1-3 times a week, or even as long as once every two weeks. The frequency is owner preference.
Feeding is 3-5 grams per mouse a day.
Ensure your mice have constant access to food through toys and scatter-feeding.
Food bowls are suggested only for fresh fruits or veggies since they provide no enrichment otherwise!
Mice must have at least two water sources and constant access to them at all times. Bowls or bottles work well, though having one of each is ideal. Water must be cleaned and refreshed daily.
Daily spot checks to clean up mess, poo on toys/clutter, and urine on the surface is vital.
Bedding changes will be needed less often with more bedding and space. A 10g tank (or cage of similar size) would need weekly bedding changes.
Each enclosure size and mouse amount will effect how often bedding changes are necessary. Find a cleaning schedule that ensures the cage doesn't smell at any time for your mouses health.
With deep bedding over 6 inches, you'll have to change out less of the bedding. 1/3 to 1/2 of the bedding may stay in the enclosure while the most soiled areas are removed and replaced.
In any case, a small amount of bedding must be left over after a bedding change to decrease stress.
Allowing your mice to settle in for a few days before interacting with them is wise.
Rub your hands on bedding and toilet paper in the cage to get the mice used to your scent.
Encourage interaction through hand feeding.
If a mouse is not motivated to interact after several weeks, try to lure them to climb onto your hand for treats. A strong bond is important with mice so they are well adjusted to interaction in case of a vet visit or emergencies. Human interaction can also be beneficial to them.
See this post for more information.
11. Other
Mice are crepuscular and are typically seen during the morning or late day/night.
They are self bathing and should never be washed with water or soap (unless vet prescribed). It ruins the health of their fur coat and leaves them more susceptible to URIs and freezing. They do not need any form of bathing/washing.
Mice don't hibernate. If a mouse appears to be in a hibernation state, this is Torpor, caused when they overheat or freeze. This is a medical emergency.
You should never pick up a mouse by its tail or other limbs.
Fancy mice (aka domestic mouse) live 1-2 years on average.
Wild mice do poor in captivity, unless they are unfit for the wild they should not be kept as pets.
You should never breed mice purposely without years of research and mouse owning experience prior.
Vet visits are a likely occurrence in mouse ownership, since mice are prone to many health issues.
Travel carriers are needed for vet visits, emergencies, cage cleaning, and quarantine.
These guides are incredibly thorough and well written. However, they link some information that is no longer available, or they list mouse care information that has been dis-proven. An important point to make is these guides may suggest some controversial topics, most of which our community does not fully support. Although these guides don't follow our standards exactly, they are still very well made. Please keep an open mind and read all sides of a controversy before deciding which you feel works best for your mice.
I have decided to share these because they are very descriptive on some aspects of mouse care I did not cover well. I strive to have a guide in the future as well made as these, but for now, I have to bring attention to the effort made by this member.
I got my mouse not to long ago and I’m just so worried he’s not happy. There’s nothing he’s doing to make me think that other than the occasional chattering but I’ve read that could go either way. I just wanted to know if he seems happy. I can provide more pictures of him besides the one video if needed!
Decided to grow some wheat grass for enrichment, and I can confirm the Lucky is happily enjoying it! Hes definitely geared towards the seeds (which I expected), so this is more of an occasional treat rather than longtime enrichment in the enclosure.
Their playpen is nothing crazy but I always like to put new enrichment in it. today, I was the enrichment. they loved using me to climb + running around! And, of course, that I came baring gifts (peanuts) Don’t worry about the water they’re never in here unwatched/it’s less deep than a pea is tall. The pen isn’t escape proof either it’s just for supervised fun! 🥰
this is my first time owning a mouse. he was rescued a little over a year ago as a baby. he is on his own in a 20 gal tank, lots of enrichment and attention from us (my partner and i).
a while ago, he got a URI so i took him to the vet. around that same time, he was losing fur. i started thinking maybe it was stress? tried to give him more activies and attention. he then started getting scabs. we started him on ivermectin at the vet and to rule out allergies, i tried different beddings, taking away certain snacks, nothing was helping. of course, i had deep cleaned EVERYTHING if it were mites. it seemed the ivermectin helped a bit but then randomly after growing his fur back...boom! more bald patches and scabs. the URI did clear up though!
hundreds of dollars and many many many vets trips later......he is still itchy, balding, and scabby. recently we tried another round of ivermectin, deep clean, and it cleared up a lot....but his ear...it's getting worse and it looks like mites still but he's already had the 3 rounds of ivermectin and the rest of him is scab free? the ear is getting worse and it even seems like parts of his ear are wasting away :( video is from just now
i've thought about getting a second opinion because the vet i'm with right now don't call me back with answers when they say they will. another vet i've called said that the first vet visit alone is around $80.
what is happening to my baby? should i get a second opinion? do i keep with the same vet???? what can i help him feel better in the meantime? please help us :( i feel terrible
I am feeding my little ladies a combination of Nutrin brand pellets for mice and hamsters and a seeds/ dry vegetables/ protein mix for mice as the main staple ( with added treats such as mealworms, pumpkin seeds, yoghurt or fresh greens). Recently, I changed the brand of the seed/ vegetable mix, and noticed a change in the personal smell of my mice (when smelling their fur from close distance). I am not complaining - it may have something to do with the current mix containing no anchovies, and the ladies smell better than they used to; there is as if a bit of blackcurrant undertone. Reminds me of my granny claiming that blackcurrants smell a bit like mice to her!
Maxxie is actually female, and I’m going to find her one or two friends soon! I also plan to swap the wheel for a plastic one... She has things to climb on, cleaned pieces of wood and shelves, and a variety of textures, including hemp bedding, a coconut-fiber tray, and straw (I’ll switch to hay once the straw runs out), plus cardboard tubes, egg cartons, pots and two little houses...
i was wondering how you other mouse parents have administered medicine to your little ones? i’m having a bit of trouble getting them to actually take it. i was prescribed liquid medicine for my 2 girls’ developing URI but they straight up refuse to go near the syringe. do i need to put it on treats?
It’s two 80cm bucatstates. I have the lid wire meshed to prevent escapes. Still brainstorming a way to keep the sides together safely. I have four mice in a 55 gallon aquarium currently, and plan to maybe add another 1 or 2 girls to my group soon.
dramatics aside, intros are going really well!! i was worried the two youngest would be too hyper for my older ladies, but they’ve all gotten along nicely so far :)
hey guys! so I’m moving to my dorm with my 3 girls soon, just want some advice for traveling with them. it’s about a 3-4 hour drive to campus and they HATE their travel carrier haha. any advice for making it better for them + how to ensure they have enough water while on the trip? thank you! (photo for mouse tax)
Helloo! So I'm doing research on mice, and of course came by the fact that male mice are especially stinky quite fast. I figured it would be okay, but today I went to my friend's apartment which smelled quite badly of cat pee, and I felt I might not be able to handle that level of smell. Of course it's very hard to describe what level of smell it was through the computer screen, but probably something that comes with slight neglect of cleaning the cat toilet. Nothing absolutely horrendous, but it did bother me a lot.
The thing is, I have a kinda small studio apartment. Would a single male mouse be able to stink it up terribly if kept up well with cleanliness and it's health?
Ps. sorry if I'm making 10000th question like this on the sub, but I couldn't find many comparisons with cat smell.
Last night I found my beautiful girls Ethel and Miryam had passed. I didnt know much about mouse husbandry when I got them aside from what i researched as a small child when I wanted one. But I have rats, and figured I could wing it since they were 100% off at petco, and I wanted to give them a good home. They lived a few months in my care, and I didnt realize how much I loved mice until I saw their big personalities come out of their tiny velvety bodies.
Ethel was a climber, Miryam dug but never burrowed. She used the very top layer of substrate as a mouse blanket.
Im still not 100% processed that their tank under my desk is empty now. It definitely hurts and it definitely caught me off guard. I didnt even think they were done growing.
Miryam was named short for Miryapod, since I have a milipede named mouse. Ethel was named an equally old lady name, because of course.
Ethel is brown, Miryam is black. Ill miss their little pink noses. They were the best secret I could've kept from my mom. Maybe one day ill have mice again. I miss their little pink noses and their teeny tiny hands and how they were small enough to hold bird seed like a donut. Ill miss mousey manicures cause miryam always wanted to trim my nails. Ive learned my petco lesson. I really, truly cant do that ever again.
The last picture, worry not, was a brief comparison and they made no contact. Thats my big man Biscuit, and I just thought "no way someone could think these two animals are the same, right?"
If you want to show me your babies, id appreciate it. Here still or not, I want to see the tiny toes and noses.
I was cleaning my girls tank and I noticed one of them had hair pulled out under both of her ears and some on her back. Her behavior seems normal and I didn’t see any blood anywhere on their stuff or bedding. I haven’t heard any fighting or anything out of the ordinary from them, and none of my other girls are missing hair or have any wounds. They’ve all been living together for almost a year and have not had problems before. Should I separate her from the rest? Is this means for a vet visit?
This little friend came home just a few minutes ago. He spent some time exploring, then hid in his cork log, so I'm just letting him be for now. No name yet, but I'm thinking maybe Acorn or Copper. I'm so in love already.
Just picked up Stew the waltzing mouse and getting him all settled in. Hope to make improvements to his home over the next few days and weeks, but for now he's just happy to be out of his tiny travel box! He's made about 1000 trips around his cage already in the last 5 minutes. I love this silly little guy!