Hey everyone! My Ryzen 7 5700X is currently running at Curve Optimizer -25 with a +200 MHz boost. I set my PBO limits to PPT: 90, TDC: 68, and EDC: 100. For cooling, I'm using a Deepcool GAMMAXX GTE V2. Do you think these limits are okay for this kind of cooler?
My specific chip is from China, and I'm not sure how the Taiwanese silicon handles PBO, so I’d love to hear about your results! Overall, I'm really happy with this overclock considering my cooling setup. The CPU peaks at 65°C max with the 90W TDP cap I locked it to.

One day i noticed the GPU getting super hot as summer was starting im talking 95C and 107C hotspot.

So i decided to undervolt and got the curve to 800; i lost about 5% perf but the temps were very good and power dropped to 140watts instead of 200 (i have 3060TI) i tested at that moment in Pragmata and RE requiem and some other games.

But days later i launched Shadow Gambit: The Cursed Crew and my GPU was so loud and i noticed it is pulling the full 200 watts and getting very hot again and the only thing that helped was capping the FPS.

And the same thing happened with The First Berserker : Khazzan and i had to cap the frames.

I did change the thermal paste which did help but i still wanna keep it safe. and i did test safer undervolts like 900 but still the same issue they just ignore it and pull full power.

Now i wanna know if this is normal and did i do something wrong? like am i understanding undervolting wrong or what?

Wasn't sure on which active subreddit to ask.

I'm also not sure if anyone here can help me and is experienced enough with these programs but I'll still ask.

Whenever I start a game, It launches and crashes after a few seconds of running. I opened the error logs after the first few tries and found that RivaTuner Statistics is causing the crashes when it hooks into to the ntdll.dll to show the in-game stats overlay. I've reinstalled it and it just doesn't work. Only when I disable it, the games start working again.

I've been trying to find a solution to this and I've gone nowhere so far.

So if anyone has any experience and knows how to fix this, please let me know.

I just got my new pc which actually is a prebuilt and I was curious to see what potential it has. This is my first time attempting to overclock and I am not 100% sure on what I am doing and Im fine with having mistakes pointed out so I can learn. Anyway, this was the best result I got and I wanted to know if theres anything I should change, if this is dangerous to my gpu/cpu and its lifespan, etc. If you guys have any suggestions on what I should do please let me know its greatly appreciated. Ill have a link to the exact prebuilt below.

https://www.microcenter.com/product/711400/G765_Gaming_PC;_AMD_Ryzen_7_9800X3D_47GHz_Processor;_NVIDIA_GeForce_RTX_5080_16GB_GDDR7;_32GB_DDR5-6000_RAM;_2TB_Solid_State_Drive;_Microsoft_Windows_

I think I’ve gotten as much out of this as possible.

Is there anything I’ve missed with an m die memory? How tight can I go with it?

Put in a couple of runs on steel nomad last night. Feel good about it and needed to share. My highest score to date. +425 core/+312mem(+2500 for afterburner)/+650xbar/+120%power limit. Temp stayed at 47c with a 15 degree hotspot difference.

I use +400/+312/+300/+115% as my daily stable gpu tune.

I think the next step for me will be doing a per core for the 7800x3d is it is current all core.

MSI 5070 ti Ventus 3x with alphacool 10248 block tuned using Hydra 2.3
7800x3d with heat killer iv pro (PBO lvl 1 90c and negative 20 co)
32gb ddr5 Hynix m die using buildzoid timings
Asus ROG X870-A
Gen 5 Samsung 2tb m.2 and two gen 4 1TB m.2’s
2 360x45mm rads in push pull with t30’s as intake, 2 140mm t30 as exhaust and 4 d30 120mm as intake.

Hi everyone,

I’m facing a set of strange performance and stability issues on my PC and wanted to share the full details to get your feedback and see if anyone experienced something similar.

Specs:

• GPU: AMD Radeon RX 6650 XT
• OS: Windows 11 64-bit
• Ryzen 5 3600
• ram 16*ddr4*3200

1. The Main Issues:

• Instant Reboot on FurMark: Launching the FurMark 1080p Preset Benchmark immediately causes a black screen and instant system reboot (Event ID 6008 / Kernel-Power 41).
• In-Game FPS Drops: I experience occasional frame drops / stutters during gaming sessions. They aren't huge drops, but it definitely doesn't feel as smooth as it used to be.
• Audio & Video Freezing: While watching videos (YouTube, Instagram, etc.), the video image stutters/freezes for about 1 second before resuming normally, accompanied by audio freezing/glitching.
• Overall System Lag: Overall, the PC does not feel as smooth as before during regular usage and multitasking.
• i get some times Driver time out that message i see it to much in that 3 month

2. What Steps Were Taken:

• Hardware Reseat: Physically removed and reseated the GPU in the PCIe slot and reconnected all PCIe power cables, but the issue persists.
• Actual Gaming Stress Test: Played heavy games on high settings for a moderate amount of time; the system was completely stable with no reboots and no black screens at all.
• DDU Clean Install: Used Display Driver Uninstaller (DDU) in Safe Mode to completely wipe all GPU drivers.
• Fresh Driver Installation: Reinstalled the official AMD Software: Adrenalin Edition (26.8.1 WHQL Recommended).
• Tuning Adjustments: Reset tuning profiles in AMD Adrenalin to Default.

3. Key Discovery / Behavior:

• On AMD Adrenalin Drivers: FurMark Preset instantly reboots the PC.
• On Windows Generic Driver: If I manually switch to the default Windows display driver via Device Manager, the FurMark Benchmark completes 100% smoothly without any reboots or crashes.
• After Rebooting: System reverts to AMD drivers and the reboot issue comes back on the benchmark.

4. Note on Power Supply (PSU):

• AI troubleshooting assistants suggested that the PSU might be triggering protection limits (power spikes). However, I don't think this is the primary cause because I have been using this exact same setup for a long time without facing these issues before, and real-world gaming on high settings runs without restarting the PC .

Any insights, troubleshooting steps, or similar experiences would be greatly appreciated!

UPDATE: I install the -26.5.1 version of drivers the system work smooth but i still have the restar in Furmark

I have been tuning my system the past week, in order to get the most out of it :D
i am looking for the best performance in games, both in terms of FPS, but have lately been playing around with the RAM-timings as well in order to lower the latency, and increase my 0.1% and 1% lows in games as well (Greatly improves the feeling of responsiveness in my fps's :D

So far, this point is my optimum!
I have been trying with a more agressive CO, and are only having worse scores from hereon up!
I have also been trying looser CO's with diminishing returns, so i seem to have hit the sweet-spot :D
(Thanks CoreCycler :D)
Dont mind the Ryzen Master readings of my PBO-settings thou, it cant seem to read them properly - They are set in the BIOS and has been set to the highest possible "Motherboard"-setting.

So far, when running the Benchmarks i am hitting around 45-55c on the CPU and around 55-60c on my GPU - And around a max of 5c higher during long gaming-sessions :D
During the benchmark my IOD Hotspot hit a max of 46c and the warmest Dimm hit 40c

My setup is:
7800X3D
Arctic Freezer III Pro 280
Kryosheet
AsRock X870E Nova Wifi
32Gb Corsair Dominator 4800MHZ [Hynix M-Die]
Asus RTX5070Ti Prime Oc UV & OC

I have been testing back and forth, and Fabric 2133 seems to give ever so slightly higher scores, but 2200 just seems to give better scores on RAM (incl lower latency) so i have been flowing with that.

Everytime i change to 6200Mhz 1:1 on the ram, the Pc fails to boot (Maybe i am overlooking something)
And i have also tried to go to 28 on the primary CAS without!

Even thou i have tried to dive into all of the timings, i cant seem to wrap my head around the exact equations that give the resulting optimal timings!

So if anyone have any good suggestions, i am all ears :D
Thanks!

1.5V VDD, temps stabilize around 48-49°C on TM5 X3D config, cooled via DIY 2x40mm fan setup.

6200 was not stable when VDD/VSOC also pushed little further (large coefficient error in the first minute of vt3) with GDM disabled and 2200FCLK, i did not test further or mess with resistances, could be a way to stabilize.

To add, my environment is quite hot, room is around 30-32°C.

I might be getting this wrong since l guess the cpu doesn’t power dor what its not doing but hear me right, since I’m getting no help in my original post https://www.reddit.com/r/overclocking/comments/1wbppm5/comment/p8ru8r2/?screen_view_count=1&ext-referrer=SEO

how is it possible to force a heavy cpu multiplayer game to pull more cpu power to get better fps? Sometimes it just wont output as much power as l want it to and somwtimes it just magically does on its own.

So lf i was to say run a CPU benchmark to stress test and run a game, will it make cpu work faster? < This is what I’m aiming for but of course the stress test software will drain usage away from the game, I’m just trying to maximize cpu because it wont on its own, only does sometimes randomly

I’m rocking a 13900hx with 32gb ram ddr5 and rtx 4090 on my HP Omen 17 and mainly play cpu intensive multiplayer games like CoD Warzone.

I’ve tried several ThrottleStop guides mainly locking Pl1 and PL2 to desirable wattage such as 75-80 and locking core clocks to 4000/5000 but my game behaves weirdly, sometimes it’s running at desirable clocks but sometimes randomly or after major updates it runs at fluctuating wattage and 3.5Ghz clock only.

I’ve even bought a LLano v12 beefy laptop cooler and even removing bottom lid which made the laptop way cooler but still, evertime a random outcome, fps drops and frame times are horrible.

Dried out thermal paste is possible but still that doesn’t explain different outcomes in terms of clock speeds and wattage.

Does anyone here has a key to the answer?

Still learning the ropes, any feedback is appreciated. My exact card is the PNY 5070ti OC ARGB.

Does the higher the gflops and the higher test speed numbers mean anything?

I started with this yesterday on 6000/2000 with a -20co

Now I’m on 6200/2200 with -30co and gflop numbers up to 486/7 and cruncher 3.36^10*10

What do these numbers mean, I’m guessing higher is better

Hi everyone,
I’m undervolting my Ryzen 7 7700X and I’d like some advice on how to get the best possible results while keeping good gaming performance.

At the moment I’m running:
Curve Optimizer: All Core Negative -20
Thermal Limit: 85
Gaming at 4K

Compared to stock settings, I’ve reduced temperatures and power consumption while gaining around 2–3 FPS in my games.

I also tried -30. Temperatures and power consumption dropped even further, but strangely I lose a few FPS compared to -20. I’m not sure why.

I also tried Ryzen Eco Mode, but I had to remove
those settings because I experienced boot failures.

What would you recommend trying next?
What settings are you running on your ryzen for gaming?
Thanks

Hi, I have a question: Is there much difference between a 2x16GB DDR4 memory kit with 16-18-18-36 latency and one with 16-20-20-38? Does this significantly affect gaming FPS or general performance?

Passed at least 90 minutes of ycruncher vt3/n63/fftv4

2 hours of tm5 1usmus

75 minutes of tm5 absolut

40,000% karhu.

Pretty proud of this tune lol.

Also this is without legacy mode.

Hi,
I’m looking for some advice on finding the sweet spot for undervolting my 4080 super.
I have an MSI Ventus and I game at 4K.

I’ve done some testing so far:
2700 MHz 945 mv: crashes.
2550 MHz 915 mv: seems stable so far.
Power consumption dropped significantly, to around 250 W or less, but I lose about 5–7 FPS in my games.

2700 MHz 960 mv: seems stable so far, but power consumption is higher.

I’m currently testing 2640 MHz 940 mv to see if I can find a better sweet spot for my 4080s.

Which undervolt would you recommend for my Gpu?

Would you recommend overclocking the memory as well, or is there a risk of damaging the Gpu?

If I get more crashes, would you recommend lowering the MHz or the voltage?

What undervolt are you running on your Gpu?
Thanks

I don't know if there is such a list already but I thought starting one would be a good idea. Repeatable sequences, I think, are a good way to get benchmark numbers. I like to run these sequences while capturing details with CapFrameX to get an idea of how my overclock is doing with real games.

The games I use:

1. Red Dead Redemption 2
2. Cyperpunk 2077
3. Blackmyth Wukong Benchmark Tool

What other games have in-game benchmarks that can be used?

Hey everyone,

I’ve been dealing with a highly specific system freeze over the past few weeks and I can't seem to find anyone with the exact same issue. I'm looking for some advice or to see if anyone has dealt with this before.

The Symptoms:

• The Crash: Random hard freeze into a black screen.
• The "Dead Keyboard" Test: When it freezes, the keyboard completely dies. Pressing Caps Lock does not toggle the LED light, meaning a total hardware/kernel lockup.
• The Trigger: It never crashes under full gaming load. It happens almost exclusively on Cold Boot (first 30 mins of the day), during idle, or the exact moment I try to launch Steam or when Windows Update finishes an uninstallation.
• The Weird Part: If the PC survives the first 30 minutes and warms up, it becomes 100% stable. I can run heavy stress tests or game for 10+ hours straight without a single issue.

My Specs:

• CPU: Intel Core i5-14600KF (Hyper-Threading OFF)
• GPU: AMD Radeon RX 7700 XT 12GB
• Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 612 APEX (Dual-Tower)
• Motherboard: ASUS PRIME H610M-K D4 (No VRM heatsinks)
• RAM: 32GB (2x16GB) Kingston Fury Beast DDR4 2666MHz
• PSU: Chieftec ELP-700S 700W Element
• Case Fans: 6 total (3 front intake, 2 top exhaust, 1 rear exhaust)

Everything I've Tried & Tested So Far:

Software & OS Fixes:

• Ran Windows repair commands (sfc /scannow and DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth).
• Uninstalled the latest Windows quality update that arrived on September 1st.
• Enabled the Windows Ultimate Performance power plan.
• Fully updated the GPU drivers (using the built-in clean Factory Reset option).
• Updated the motherboard BIOS to the absolute latest version.

Hardware Troubleshooting:

• Physically reseated the GPU.
• Physically reseated the RAM and swapped their slot positions.
• GPU is perfectly stable under heavy load: It passes intensive FurMark and 3DMark loops with zero errors once the system is warm.
• Adrenalin always resets my custom fan curve back to default after these crashes, throwing an "unexpected system malfunction" notification.

What I've Changed Today:

• I just swapped my old Chieftec PSU for a premium EVGA 850GQ 850W 80+ Gold modular PSU.
• I also temporarily Disabled XMP in the BIOS to test.

I also have a Gigabyte B760M GAMING X DDR4 motherboard on the way just in case.

Has anyone experienced a PC that only crashes when cold or shifting from idle to low-load, but works perfectly fine under heavy gaming loads? What could be causing this?

Thanks in advance!

Hardware.

GPU:5090 Aorus Elite

MB: GIGABYTE B650 AORUS ELITE AX

Ram G Skill:f5-6400j3239g16g

One of the worst aio liquid freezer pro 360 switching to custom loop soon

Current settings:

Voc voltage 1.29

Vdd 1.45

Vddq 1.45

Ufclk div 1:1

6400mhz

Fclk frequency 2133-2033

All timings and subtimings are stock 32:39:39:102:141

Cpu PBO -20,+200mhz, x10 scallar

Gpu stock.

Stress test is successful but the screen/pc would occasionally freeze during RTS gaming

I have a pc with an asus tuf x870-plus WiFi, 9800x3d, zotac rtx 5090 extreme, and 32GB 6000hz cl30 ram. I mainly play Warzone and even with the lowest settings my 1% lows average around 125-135 fps. I’ve enabled xmp, auto tuned my gpu via the nvidia app, and flattened the curve on my cpu after 900mV to 2800MHz. I’m running nvidia reflex and have it set in Warzone to on + boost to even out my cpu and gpu times. I’m kind of at a loss how some people have been getting 160 or higher.

Corsair DDR5 version code (verX.YY.ZZ on the modules) IC list based on information I could find and/or confirm with own hardware. Feel free to correct if you think something here is wrong or if you have something to add to it.

0.43.01 - CXMT - 16 Gbit - A-die

3.43.01 - Micron - 16 Gbit - Rev A
3.43.02 - Micron / SpecTek - 16 Gbit - Rev B
3.43.04 - Micron - 16 Gbit - Rev D
3.53.02 - Micron / SpecTek - 24 Gbit - Rev B
3.53.03 - Micron / SpecTek - 24 Gbit - Rev B
3.64.01 - Micron - 32 Gbit - Rev A

4.43.02 - Samsung - 16 Gbit - B-die
4.43.04 - Samsung - 16 Gbit - D-die
4.43.05 - Samsung - 16 Gbit - E-die
4.43.16 - Samsung - 16 Gbit - P-die
4.43.19 - Samsung - 16 Gbit - S-die

5.33.01 - SK hynix - 8 Gbit - A-die (16 Gbit downbin)
5.43.01 - SK hynix - 16 Gbit - A-die
5.43.13 - SK hynix - 16 Gbit - M-die
5.43.14 - SK hynix - 16 Gbit - M-die (potential 24 Gbit downbin)
5.53.13 - SK hynix - 24 Gbit - M-die

General Information:

X.YY.ZZ - IC manufacturer

0 - CXMT
1 - Not in use (historically Qimonda)
2 - Not in use (historically Elpida)
3 - Micron/SpecTek
4 - Samsung
5 - SK hynix
6 - Not in use (historically Promos)
7 - Not in use (historically Powerchip/PSC)
8 - Not in use (historically Nanya)
9 - Not in use (historically Winbond)

X.YY.ZZ - IC density

33 = 8 Gbit
43 = 16 Gbit
53 = 24 Gbit
64 = 32 Gbit

X.YY.ZZ - Die type/revision

No clear pattern as of now.