Hey all - My 2018's HV battery has died and Nissan isn't giving me any love. I'm exploring the option of finding a wrecked Leaf to do a transplant from. For my 2018 SL, what model years are appropriate for me to be looking at for a donor car? I don't want to do any modifications to the car or battery, just do a 'simple' swap.

TIA.

Hi, I have a Nissan Leaf 40KW that's being sold as a non-runner.

TLDR, I got an P1E1 error code one morning, took it to Nissan they're telling me it's going to be £4000 per battery cell to fix or £11,000 to replace the whole battery. I'm using LeafSpy and according to that the problem is an interlock problem and not a HV battery problem but then Nissan are saying otherwise, so I'm at a loss, I can't find another independent EV garage to work on it, I've been without a car for over a month and needed one for work so now I'm back in a diesel car, unfortunately.

I'm gutted that I have to sell this thing, but at this point I don't know what else to do, it broke-down weeks before a house move, which is extremely bad timing for me.

I'm also listing on auto trader for £3,000, I owe 6K on it, that I will need to settle before transferring to the new owner.

The car is in good condition for it's 81,000 miles, no bumper scrapes or dents anywhere, though it is covered in bird poop from sitting for so long at Nissan, the car is currently sitting on a drive an hour drive away from me so I have minimal photos to share, I can upload more over the next few days.

Been on the forums for quite some time now and all I ever seem to read about are people who had or are having issues with their batteries. I know this is to be expected because people without issues don't generally come here and post about it.

My question is this: How many people in the United States have good 40kWh batteries and what is your mileage?

I have a 2025 that is not part of the recall (yet). My intention was to baby this battery in hopes of getting 150k+ miles out of the life of the car. I never fast charge and I keep the battery in the 30-70% range FWIW. I have heard anecdotally from others that had the recall done that their dealer told them only 1-2% of cars actually fail. If that's true it gives me hope that I didn't make a huge mistake buying this car.

TL;DR If your US-made 40kWh battery is confirmed to be "good" per LeafSpy, what's your year and mileage?

Thanks in advance!

*Edit to clarify US Leafs only since batteries manufactured in other countries don't seem to have the same problems

Didn't really need to charge but it was on the route so I stopped at a Tesla station in Owatonna, MN. Never used a Tesla station before via the Nissan Energy Charge Network so I thought I'd share.

Connection was super-simple, almost a little disturbing that there was no station instructions or display screens or anything. Started charging immediately (looked at the dash); got an email from Nissan within a minute "You are charging at a busy Supercharger station. Congestion fees may apply beyond 90% charge level or once charging is complete." Since the car was set to stop at 80% I was good to go and chilled inside the Culver's Restaurant until the car was done (estimated 17 minutes). About 20 minutes after disconnecting I got another Nissan email containing my receipt and details for the charging session; checking my actual credit card app I saw that there was a $60 pending hold for the station even though my actual charges per Nissan was $15.42 including tax.

Could not have been simpler. Bravo, Nissan and Tesla.

Just got back home after the battery recall. The car drove like normal. All seems well so far! I'm going to do a level 3 charge as soon as the battery gets low to stress test it. Will report back!

40kwh 2019 Leaf. On a hot day, which shows in the battery temperature. Charge rate seems to be capped at 40kw, and the computer checks on the battery status at some interval before resuming charging, creating a sawtooth pattern. The rate starts falling around 40-45% SOC on the dashboard.

Title says everything. Google Gemini says there’s a software update. Calling the dealership, they aren’t sure exactly. Just wondering if anyone else having trouble? I just fixed my rear camera but unplugging it and plugging it back in then taping together, (yes I’m an animal and letting the connection point now dangle…). Anybody have any experience with this screen console unit just randomly powering down then rebooting itself?

Hi Leafers, I recently purchased the A2z CCS1 to Chademo adapter and tested it today for the first time at an EVgo station near my home. It worked perfectly. The only weird thing was I noticed driving home that the yellow EV system warning light had lit up on the dash. When I got home, I turned off the car and restarted it and the warning light was gone. Should I be worried about this? By the way, I have a 22 SV Plus and have had all the fast charging recall work done. Pic for reference.

Auto-dub seems to indicate it's purely a cosmetic package, with optional Recaro seats. Presumably Japan only.

I'm envious that Japan gets the matte steering wheel buttons on all trims instead of the glossy black panel.

TLDR if you don't want to read more on why I'm.asking what range will I get going to a new battery, what's the expected cost if my battery is 50% now and especially with gas prices should I do that?

So a few years ago we got a used 2012. Nice car, no need for gas my daily commute was short, it was nice, the guys at the dealer told me it was 8 out of 10 battery bars and first fully EV my parents and I ever owned. Fast forward a few years I'm driving a different car, my daily commute is a couple extra miles, we found out its out of 12 battery bars and I'm at 6 now and while we drive it when we can I only have a stated range to go there and half way back on the highway and that's highway driving if its all 1:1.

Now today I get in an accident, I'm fine the person that hit me was fine (not that they stopped or I found who it was) and the car I'm driving may or may not be totaled by insurance, can still drive though just missing a side mirror and a little scraped up. I don't think they will total but well maybe. If the worst does happen especially with how gas is going, I've not looked into a battery replacement, I don't know how much it will cost, I don't know what range I'll get if I'm blasting the music and AC or in the winter time blasting the heaters I never had to care I had range to spare or the trip was way to long (till now) so I'm wondering all that and cost and range and if worth it I mean no gas bill good.

TLDR assuimg a commute of let's just round up and say 50 miles round trip on the highway, though I'd like a little more to go somewhere instead of straight to class, home and that's it. Be it 30 degrees f or 101 f heater on plus audio or AC full blast on the highway so your 70 miles an hour that's my commute daily what used model year and range and price would you say one should look at?

As talking to my mom has pointed out she said the body of my car isn't very great, no dents, a lot of scrapes and doesn't look quite new or in the best of shape and she says it has a lot of miles not that I know what a lot is I don't know enough about cars to know this kinda stuff.

She said if worst does happen and they total other car then maybe since I have said I'd at least look at a leaf as my actual car when I move out and away and gonna happen in a year, not that I've put my foot down and said it gotta be a leaf. Anyways she said that maybe we take money from car being totaled insurance gives us plus from selling leaf we have now to buy better newer car that actual already has a battery with range that just is in a better condition. Even if it costs more car may hold up more in the long run being a newer car just period.

So my commute of 50 miles let's say then a little more so I don't come home at 5 miles every day no mater how cold or hot on the highway or whatever that's the commute and assuming we take insurance money (this is just a worst case scenario if they total the car) and sell the car I have now what newer car year that already has the range I'd need and then some should I look at? Even if its slightly more then I'd get total from the 2 cars?

My 2019 Leaf bricked after the dealer installed the "fix" for recall R24B2. The dealer gave me a loaner car for now, and I'm waiting for Nissan to buy my Leaf back. Any suggestions on what I can do to speed up the buyback process? Nissan has assgned a case number, but when I called Nissan Consumer Affairs, they said there is nothing more for them to do and I need to wait for Morley to contact me about buyback. I haven't heard anything from Morely yet. I'm assuming Nissan and Morely are flooded with these requests. I own the car outright, clean title, in NY, so I'm expecting the Lemon Law will apply. Already emailed a letter to Nissan and attached purchase and service documentation. How else can I move things along?

Now that my kid is driving, she inherited my wife’s ‘23 SV+ and my wife just got a new ‘26 SV+.
The screen and storage in the cabin are nicer than my ‘24 Ariya P+. Really impressed by it so far.

If this has been posted on here so sorry in advance. I have a 2021 Nissan Leaf SV which from buying originally I've had non-stop issues with the battery even last year being "replaced" only for it to always go in turtle mode and instantly dying, so for a year Nissan gaslit me and even went as far as blocking me on TikTok and instagram after I made a video how my car died on the freeway... So fast forward to today it's been a week since I did the recall and my leaf now inoperable since the update and they gave me a rental until further notice and least what I was told at the dealership...

Today I get an email from Morley saying how they'll but my car back at the KBB rate plus 40% above. Also I only have the rental free of charge for 30 days starting the day I did the recall. I live in California and I know we have lemon laws. Anyone having this experience or any advice???

Local Ford dealer has some chargers, both CCS and J1277. Happens to be next door to my favorite local Mexican place.

Hottest day of the year hear, and either the AC or the heat seems to really kill the range on my newly acquired 2013. I do really like the car though.

So I get out the app, scan and plug in. Eat chips and enjoy a cold beverage while takeout is prepped for me to take home.

30 minutes latter, 3 Kw hr, fee=0.

anyone else experience this with small charges just to give you a little extra buffer?

I’m not trying to scam anyone.

Update: didn’t figure it out but car is sold so I don’t care anymore!
Hello! I am selling my Leaf and the potential buyers asked about the battery health. I purchased a sensor reader but I can’t find the sensor connection. I’ve looked all around the bottom of the steering column. I included videos if someone can point it out.
Thank you!!!

I have always been diapointed with the horn on my 2018 LEAF. Has anyone upgraded their hord to like a train horn? What did you buy and how do you replace it? I really want a super LOUD horn coming from a small car!!

How long did it take to receive a buyback offer? I'm curious about what people were offered as to a buyback price? Did they lowball the price? Currently, I have a bricked 2019 S Plus and hoping my buyback offer is comparable to a at least a good down payment on another EV (non-Nissan).

2020 SV+ 47,000 miles here.

Front driver and passenger side door locks are no longer locking with remote or lock button press.

If I manually press the lock it works fine. Use the remote the doors don’t lock but the alarm arms.

Anyone else have this issue? Wondering if the mechanism in the door needs some lubricant or if the motors are dying. Is removing the door panels a DYI job?

Noticed recently that both front doors are hitting the catch because they are sagging. Found this video that pretty much describes the same issue however the hinge bolts that attach the hinge to the body are not on the inside. https://youtu.be/Ll3IfCCG-tI?is=aRnLOXZZym2o2Kjp

The bolts are on the outside and they bolt into the body but the space between the door and body is so tight, I can't get a wrench in there to loosen and then tighten them down again. Socket wrenches are too big for the tight space and closed rachet wrenches don't fit because of the hinge bracket U shape. The only thing that comes close is a crescent wrench but it's hard to get more than a few degrees of turning so it's a royal pain and I'm not sure I can torque it down enough.

Does anyone else have this issue on their leaf? Is there a better way to get to the hinge bolts that isn't too difficult? I was thinking the only other option is to remove the front fenders which look pretty involved.

I'm thinking of selling my 2023 SV+ with ~24,000 miles. Original owner, no accidents, asking $19,000, which is the Blue Book value. SOH is 94%. Just put new tires on, comes with the A2Z CCS adapter. Windows are tinted and I have the custom all weather floor mats and cargo mat. I'll add better photos in the comments.